Testing battery health Options

[Karebu]

What's the cheapest way of testing battery health?

I know for sure multimeter doesn't work.

Yesterday was my second time with flat battery. I did 'feel' a slightly slower crank about a month ago and this time round I've decided to test the batt with multimeter religiously. And even when it went dead, it was registering about 12.2v and 11.9v with ignition turned to accessory.

Both times I've monitored the indicators on the batteries. Two different brands. And they have obviously failed me.

I'm aware of battery load testers but they don't come cheap. I am doubtful of those $20 battery health meters (cigarette plug style found in autobacs) - or do they work?

I do carry jumper cables in the boot but I really dislike the idea of having to wait around for some kind soul to help. Are there any other ways to test?

This post has been edited by Karebu: Aug 19 2012, 01:31 AM

[Aimnfire]

What's the cheapest way of testing battery health?

I know for sure multimeter doesn't work.

Yesterday was my second time with flat battery. I did 'feel' a slightly slower crank about a month ago and this time round I've decided to test the batt with multimeter religiously. And even when it went dead, it was registering about 12.2v and 11.9v with ignition turned to accessory.

Both times I've monitored the indicators on the batteries. Two different brands. And they have obviously failed me.

I'm aware of battery load testers but they don't come cheap. I am doubtful of those $20 battery health meters (cigarette plug style found in autobacs) - or do they work?

I do carry jumper cables in the boot but I really dislike the idea of having to wait around for some kind soul to help. Are there any other ways to test?

its when you crank, you need to measure that voltage

[Kb27]

Get a cheap digital voltmeter from ebay for car, about $15 and wire up to the battery.
Remove any surface charge - leave headlights on for 10 mins after engine shutdown. A fully charged battery is close to 12.66V
Remove fuel pump fuse, crank engine and hold for a couple of seconds.
Look at the meter reading during the crank/hold.
If the reading is near to 10.0V, I think it's time to change battery.

[Eyke]

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/yusayusa/item/10003211/

[Trafficwatch]

If you're willing to pay around S$ 130, then i can sell you a Battery Load Tester. ("AutoBac" selling S$ 230/- unit).
Cheap and most accurate of testing your auto battery condition vs "Midtronic" tester for testing CCA only.

What most important to know is all about the / our auto battery condition LOAD SUSTAINABILITY NOT CCA.

Determination of auto battery CCA is vary from brands of battery to another brands of battery (Just for sharing, different auto battery makers / models having different specs, formulation of Positive / Negative lead plates, different type of plates constructions -- plate constructions also determine the flow current - CCA, Separator materials used (Absorbed Glass Mat or PE materials, plastic materials), the acid SG reading for their batteries so by testing the auto battery CCA is not absolute precise method for this case)

[Yeobh]

Just Pm u

[Yeobh]

Good explanation, most of the local mechs try to sell batteries base on CCA testing ( using sampling test) which is a test std more for cold countries. The best way is still to test each cell specific gravity using hydrometer.

[Karebu]

Good explanation, most of the local mechs try to sell batteries base on CCA testing ( using sampling test) which is a test std more for cold countries. The best way is still to test each cell specific gravity using hydrometer.

Hygrometer works for maint free dry cell?

[Yeobh]

Not suitable for MF batteries ( sealed )

[Yeobh]

This post has been edited by Yeobh: Aug 20 2012, 08:48 AM

[Trafficwatch]

Hydrometer don't use on MF Battery and the "Magic Eye" is not really telling you the status of battery but to confirm if sufficient acid level that pass thru the bottom base of "Magic Eye" path. (For auto MF Battery, it's not 100% dry type but appprox. 30% to 40% with acid content in it and it's just Maintenance Free due to you can't check the acid SG level and open the 6 x cell vent plugs)

[Yeobh]

BATTERY HYDROMETER PROFESSIONAL DISC TYPE




This post has been edited by Yeobh: Aug 20 2012, 07:22 PM

[Batlim]

Hi guys I got a CCA tester, if any1 of you need - we could do a CCA test for you free - do comeby by appointment pls - also U need to you your battery CCA rating as they should be stated on your battery

[HAW]

rule of thumb batteries for car last about 2 years in sg due to our hot and humid weather,there is a cheaper load tester in the market which cost about $70 you can get hold of this in a electrical shop in king geoge ave.

[Neutrino]

Now and again when I come back from overseas my battery will be flat.
Each time I call out AA to start the car.
Each time the AA guy does a battery test and tells me my battery is a dead loss and I should buy a new one.
Each time I tell him thank you but I'll carry on with this one.
Each time I use it without problem for another 6 months at which time I go overseas again.
This has been happening for 6 years now and still on the original battery.

[Yeobh]

The AA guy should not conduct a high discharge test on a drained battery. It does not serve any purpose as the battery is already short of "juice". The battery must be slowly charge up to full charge status. At this stage the battery can then be subjected to a high discharge test.

The other possibility - there is a parasite drain taking place even when you completely shut down the engine and other electrical systems. Unless the drain is detected and "plug" if not even a brand new battery will be drain off very far.

[Yeobh]

High discharge testers load consists of fix resistor wires. Most of the cheap version have resistor wires that can take load up to 70 amp. Generally it's is best to use a 100amp load discharge tester for more accuracy and longer tester natural life.

[Batlim]

Now and again when I come back from overseas my battery will be flat.
Each time I call out AA to start the car.
Each time the AA guy does a battery test and tells me my battery is a dead loss and I should buy a new one.
Each time I tell him thank you but I'll carry on with this one.
Each time I use it without problem for another 6 months at which time I go overseas again.
This has been happening for 6 years now and still on the original battery.

How long are your trips normally ?
Have you tried fully charging your battery before the trip ?

What is the brand or the battery & your ride ?
Great OEM Battery !!! which usually have higher specifications.

[Jim]

Now and again when I come back from overseas my battery will be flat.
Each time I call out AA to start the car.
Each time the AA guy does a battery test and tells me my battery is a dead loss and I should buy a new one.
Each time I tell him thank you but I'll carry on with this one.
Each time I use it without problem for another 6 months at which time I go overseas again.
This has been happening for 6 years now and still on the original battery.

Why don't you disconnect the battery before you go overseas then? Just make sure you lock all the doors before disconnecting.

I think I always take good care of my battery but it always dies exactly at 2 years interval. Ironically, the car can be untouched for 10+ days and start without problem, but dies on me at the most ridiculous times, like during petrol top up after a 2 hour drive. I'm always envious of people who can keep their battery alive for more than 2 years. Hope I have better luck now with nanopulser.

[Karebu]

How do u take care of your battery?

I've only heard of leaving accessories all off till you've started engine.