RMS Power determine speaker quality? Options

[Ishiwgao]

Hi. I have 2 options of speaker from the shop I am currently upgrading my 6.5 comps to. Without looking at brands,

Speaker A -
125W norm, 250W peak power
Sensitivity 90dB
Frequency 60Hz-20kHz

Speaker B -
80W norm, 160W peak power
Sensitivity 92dB
Frequency 60Hz-20kHz

My amplifier is able to handle 400W per channel, so both speakers are suitable. Both speakers are the same price. Will the 2dB of sensitivity be my concern, or should I just go for the higher power one?

[Gee]

i usually go by brand first then by the numbers.
although no 100% guarantee, some brands have better quality than others.
quality also depends which kind, built quality, performance quality, etc.
specs can be overblown and even if not, would we check it to verify?

But assuming both speaker are somewhat OK brand, i would go with the higher power one.
The power difference is quite big while the sensitivity is about the same.

[AlanZ]

I look at the brand 1st too. Cause the reputable brands normally under rate their power whereas the not so popular ones over declare.

[Wasted]

can google the speakers for reviews, btw 400w per channel is what amp?

[Roadrunner2029]

RMS is just average power. A lot of other factors.

[Ishiwgao]

amp is boss rev 800. supposed to be 300w per channel x4 at 2 ohm. but will bridge, and give discount for a few losses here and there, i just assumed 400w per channel as a safe number.

thanks for all the replies everyone. I guess it's more than just power. will have to look deeper into the brands then

[Chickensoup]

Hi. I have 2 options of speaker from the shop I am currently upgrading my 6.5 comps to. Without looking at brands,

Speaker A -
125W norm, 250W peak power
Sensitivity 90dB
Frequency 60Hz-20kHz

Speaker B -
80W norm, 160W peak power
Sensitivity 92dB
Frequency 60Hz-20kHz

My amplifier is able to handle 400W per channel, so both speakers are suitable. Both speakers are the same price. Will the 2dB of sensitivity be my concern, or should I just go for the higher power one?

Seems Speaker B could be a better choice. Lower RMS with higher dB is usually better without knowing the brand.

[Fuelsaver]

Then hi end sinphoni only 40w rms cannot be so jia at rite. Think it's quality more than quantity.

[Tayspiderx]

Be it brand or numbers, best if can demo the speakers, call up the supplier to check which installer hav sampler set up. If not i'll stick to the more rekown brand, mainly cos they waste no expense in R&D and reputation at stake.

Other variable also can be material of cone, wiring and magnet.

[Theoldjaffa]

when u buy digital cam, you don't just look at megapixels, you look at the photo quality right?

same thing, audit the speakers. buy one that you like, at your budget of course.

[Chpeck]

Your ears determine the speaker quality not just paper specs.

[Ishiwgao]

Seems Speaker B could be a better choice. Lower RMS with higher dB is usually better without knowing the brand.

This is new to me. It does make sense though. I will look into it

[Timbuktu]

Hi. I have 2 options of speaker from the shop I am currently upgrading my 6.5 comps to. Without looking at brands,

Speaker A -
125W norm, 250W peak power
Sensitivity 90dB
Frequency 60Hz-20kHz

Speaker B -
80W norm, 160W peak power
Sensitivity 92dB
Frequency 60Hz-20kHz

My amplifier is able to handle 400W per channel, so both speakers are suitable. Both speakers are the same price. Will the 2dB of sensitivity be my concern, or should I just go for the higher power one?

The most important aspect of amp-to-speaker matching is the power amp's output impedance and the speakers' input sensitivity.
Some audiophile power amps do go to as low as 2 ohms on output impedance. If you try to match that with lower efficiency, hard-to-drive speakers - e.g. ribbon speakers at 88 dB, you will end up turning up the pre-amp's volume dial to way past 12 o'clock to get decent sound ... if not near full max!
Similar, matching super-efficient >96 dB speakers (e.g. horn-loaded speakers) with power amp output impedance of 6 or 8 ohms may be so loud that you get speaker cones deflecting/warping near its peak power limit at even 9 o'clock settings ... that is if you don't get the output transformers clipping before that.
For amp power rating, single-ended tube power amps generate very low power, in exchange for sound quality and higher resolution. These require efficent speakers >96 dB typically.

[Dclk]

This is new to me. It does make sense though. I will look into it

I agree with Chickensoup. With a higher sensitivity, speaker B is easier to drive. I am assuming both sets of spekaers are of comparable standard.

[Liping24cn]

Would go for the one with the higher RMS rating. As it will have 'stronger' coil.
N will act as buffer to accidental over-volume from the high powered amp.

One thing to consider is the cross-over between the speakers n tweeters. Not all crossovers are the same, some have higher resistance n capacitance, which will definately affect the 'power' that reach the speakers eventually.

Assuming both speakers sound quality is the same(sound is subjective anyway, n my ears is not into detailed sound quality), so I will definately chose the higher RMS speaker!
Also the equalizer in the HU can somewhat tune the frequency response of the speakers to make it sound 'nice' to my ears.

[Ishiwgao]

for those in this thread who wants to know, Chickensoup and Dclk are right

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudspeaker

In the examples that follow, assume (for simplicity) that the drivers being compared have the same electrical impedance, are operated at the same frequency within both driver's respective pass bands, and that power compression and distortion are low. For the first example, a speaker 3 dB more sensitive than another produces double the sound power (or be 3 dB louder) for the same power input. Thus, a 100 W driver ("A") rated at 92 dB for 1 W @ 1 m sensitivity puts out twice as much acoustic power as a 200 W driver ("B") rated at 89 dB for 1 W @ 1 m when both are driven with 100 W of input power. In this particular example, when driven at 100 W, speaker A produces the same SPL, or loudness as speaker B would produce with 200 W input. Thus, a 3 dB increase in sensitivity of the speaker means that it needs half the amplifier power to achieve a given SPL. This translates into a smaller, less complex power amplifier—and often, to reduced overall system cost.

comparing the 2 speakers (and assume both sounds the same), then speaker B would be better because specs wise, it would produce 133W RMS and 266W peak power at 90dB, or in short, a louder sound with lesser power required than speaker A.

I know what speaker to get already!

[Chickensoup]

for those in this thread who wants to know, Chickensoup and Dclk are right

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudspeaker

In the examples that follow, assume (for simplicity) that the drivers being compared have the same electrical impedance, are operated at the same frequency within both driver's respective pass bands, and that power compression and distortion are low. For the first example, a speaker 3 dB more sensitive than another produces double the sound power (or be 3 dB louder) for the same power input. Thus, a 100 W driver ("A") rated at 92 dB for 1 W @ 1 m sensitivity puts out twice as much acoustic power as a 200 W driver ("B") rated at 89 dB for 1 W @ 1 m when both are driven with 100 W of input power. In this particular example, when driven at 100 W, speaker A produces the same SPL, or loudness as speaker B would produce with 200 W input. Thus, a 3 dB increase in sensitivity of the speaker means that it needs half the amplifier power to achieve a given SPL. This translates into a smaller, less complex power amplifier—and often, to reduced overall system cost.

comparing the 2 speakers (and assume both sounds the same), then speaker B would be better because specs wise, it would produce 133W RMS and 266W peak power at 90dB, or in short, a louder sound with lesser power required than speaker A.

I know what speaker to get already!

Glad that you concur with our recommedation. Brand is important too because some speakers in the market are sold by marketing based companies. They are not into hifi manufacturing in a way.

To make a speaker to produce sound is not difficult but to make a speaker to produce nice rich sound, musical instruments that sound correct is not so easy. Go with European brands would be safer. Check the history and background of the brand. Some brand name make you feel they are from Europe but in reality it is not.

[Picanto]

is a european brand always better than a jap brand such as pioneer?

[Nhrisuzu]

is a european brand always better than a jap brand such as pioneer?

it depends bro..

see what the listener is going for.. different brands got different characteristics which suit different listeners..