All about springs and shocks(dampers)

[Lsflsf]

 

Something doesn't sound right leh. yes it is possible for tyres to get noisier and maybe harden a bit with age but for it to be noisy in 1 week and harden until the ride deterioration is noticeable in 1 week is extreme.

 

Quite likely it is not the tyre but something else went wrong.

 

I will need to check with my mech next time but my KWs comes with a separate spring for the pre-loading. (the small spring on top of the main coil). With such a system, how does it affect ride height and preload?

 

1 Week of comfort before deteriorating. dunno why also thats why i asking if there is any good mech for mitsu.

[whyuliddat]

 

1 Week of comfort before deteriorating. dunno why also thats why i asking if there is any good mech for mitsu.

 

If you find any can pm me also? i looking for good tech for my E9 also. ty

[Thedecemberone]

Is there coilover for nissan latio? I went to spc workshop and told them this problem:

Every morning when i drive over the 1st hump, there will be a loud thud sound. It will be ok thereafter.

 

I tried ti replicate the sound, and realised that when i engaged reverse gear with hand brake engaged. When i tried to move it, the same thud sound will be there. The sound comes from the rear.

 

Went to this spc workshop, uncle said likely shock absorber is gone. He also said no point change to coilover because there isnt any for latio.

 

Any recommendations

My colleague replaced his Latio with coilover. He recommended me to coilovers. It is the biggest regret I have ever made. I am not blaming him because it's my own decision. But you have to be prepared for a stiff ride. Forget comfort. If you are not using your car for high speed ride or frequently take fast corners, I'd suggest you stay away from coilovers.

Edited January 11, 2015 by Thedecemberone

[Yuan]

My colleague replaced his Latio with coilover. He recommended me to coilovers. It is the biggest regret I have ever made. I am not blaming him because it's my own decision. But you have to be prepared for a stiff ride. Forget comfort. If you are not using your car for high speed ride or frequently take fast corners, I'd suggest you stay away from coilovers.

 

Not all coilovers are stiff.

 

There are some which you can adjust to a certain level of comfort.

 

I am currently using the SRE Kit. It can be adjusted by me (the driver who is also the owner) from the most comfort level to the most stiff one without going to the workshop or any assistance of the mechanic.

 

I have tried all the settings. At its most comfort level, it is as good as stock and at its most stiff level, it really can be a very harsh ride.

 

Alternatively, one can consider better shocks (in the form of gas shock absorbers) and stock springs. Done that with my previous ride and it was firm and stable and lasted me through all kinds of terrains.

[Yuan]

 

1 Week of comfort before deteriorating. dunno why also thats why i asking if there is any good mech for mitsu.

 

You may wish to contact Joseph of CH Motors at 6841 8841. His shop is at Ubi.

 

He handles Mitsubishi cars. My previous Mitsubishi was well taken care of by him.

[Fuelsaver]

No lah! My Murano will be 7 years end of this month. Left 3 years to go. And yes, alignment was an issue but settled during the replacement. But all the while I never visit outside workshop as don't know which is reliable, so go back to TC for all my servicings.

 

Mine is the last of 2008 2.5L model just before the newer model arrive.

 

I am pleasantly surprised that ShellVpower is a lady. She is just so technically inclined and knowledgeable. Kudos to her.

This might sound silly - what is ur ride cold tyre pressure? If it's some 240-25kpa, ur ride quality b harsh, even more so if rims r big like 19-20".

[Thedecemberone]

This might sound silly - what is ur ride cold tyre pressure? If it's some 240-25kpa, ur ride quality b harsh, even more so if rims r big like 19-20".

I pump 230kpa. Tyre size is 225/65/18".

 

Not all coilovers are stiff.

 

There are some which you can adjust to a certain level of comfort.

 

I am currently using the SRE Kit. It can be adjusted by me (the driver who is also the owner) from the most comfort level to the most stiff one without going to the workshop or any assistance of the mechanic.

 

I have tried all the settings. At its most comfort level, it is as good as stock and at its most stiff level, it really can be a very harsh ride.

 

Alternatively, one can consider better shocks (in the form of gas shock absorbers) and stock springs. Done that with my previous ride and it was firm and stable and lasted me through all kinds of terrains.

The workshop told me already quite soft at 15% stiffness. That means 3 clicks. Cannot go any softer. But still quite stiff.

[Detach8]

Is there coilover for nissan latio? I went to spc workshop and told them this problem:

Every morning when i drive over the 1st hump, there will be a loud thud sound. It will be ok thereafter.

 

I tried ti replicate the sound, and realised that when i engaged reverse gear with hand brake engaged. When i tried to move it, the same thud sound will be there. The sound comes from the rear.

 

Went to this spc workshop, uncle said likely shock absorber is gone. He also said no point change to coilover because there isnt any for latio.

 

Any recommendations

 

That KNOCK sound is likely your BRAKES bro. Not suspension.

Edited January 11, 2015 by Detach8

[Detach8]

I pump 230kpa. Tyre size is 225/65/18".

The workshop told me already quite soft at 15% stiffness. That means 3 clicks. Cannot go any softer. But still quite stiff.

 

Technically you can't just dial down the damping by such an extent if the springs are stiff too. There's only a narrow range it can work within. If the setup is stiff to begin with, you won't go very far. IIRC low end coil-overs only allows adjustment of rebound. The reason why you feel stiff is the COMPRESSION. rebound is to control how much the spring kicks back after a compression. If set too soft, the spring will kick back too fast and your car will be worse off.

 

Why don't you check some videos on how to adjust the settings on your shocks. It is likely very easy.

My colleague replaced his Latio with coilover. He recommended me to coilovers. It is the biggest regret I have ever made. I am not blaming him because it's my own decision. But you have to be prepared for a stiff ride. Forget comfort. If you are not using your car for high speed ride or frequently take fast corners, I'd suggest you stay away from coilovers.

 

To be honest the Latio drives like shit, and the stock shocks are also pretty crappy. That car understeers like mad, even just taking a slow corner on the gas -- understeer. Lift off the gas -- back to neutral. The suspension geometry on that car is just terrible. A decent set of coilover should transform the car greatly. What coilovers did your colleague get? I don't think Murano is that bad.

I will need to check with my mech next time but my KWs comes with a separate spring for the pre-loading. (the small spring on top of the main coil). With such a system, how does it affect ride height and preload?

 

The pre-loading is if you mess around with the spring seat to lower your car more than desired.

 

If your springs fit snugly at the spring seat position you want, the preload springs are not required at all.

 

1 Week of comfort before deteriorating. dunno why also thats why i asking if there is any good mech for mitsu.

 

That 1 week your tyres have barely worn in and has this oily surface... and usually that's when it's very quiet.

Alignment done at sg "best" alignment shop. No accident before. Very weird. Any very experienced mech for mitsubishi? Ty

 

Your rear creaking sound may be an exhaust mount instead of a suspension noise.

Edited January 11, 2015 by Detach8

[Ake109]

 

The pre-loading is if you mess around with the spring seat to lower your car more than desired.

 

If your springs fit snugly at the spring seat position you want, the preload springs are not required at all.

 

 

I asked the workshop to set my car as high as the coils would allow. Does that mean my preload springs are not used? If I look at the coil with my car on the ground, the preload springs look fully compressed.

[ShellVpower]

 

Front is MacPherson. Multi-Link Rear.

 

 

This is the better suspension set up in my opinion. It is used in many successful models like the VW (1K1~ ) chassis.

1. Easy to maintain

• With lesser moving parts, wear and tear is limited only to those very much easily predictable components.
• With lesser moving parts, replacement is also much easier compared to double wishbones.
• Vehicle kinematics are not easily changed with the replacement of suspending parts which in your case, coil springs. Unlike double wishbones with alignment figures very susceptible to change during lowering or increase of ride height.
• Cheaper to produce and maintain.

1. Better Handling

• Offers independent suspension capabilities which means better handling, especially its resistance to understeering against rigid front axles.
• Offers the same independent capabilities as its double-wishbone counterparts. Camber changes can be made possible with camber kits.

[ShellVpower]

 

I asked the workshop to set my car as high as the coils would allow. Does that mean my preload springs are not used? If I look at the coil with my car on the ground, the preload springs look fully compressed.

 

You cannot judge by looking at it like that.

If you got yourself a reputable kit, you will have the correct springs and bump stop kit. You will not see the bump stop kit if you are using an upside down monotube. The bumpstop kit is inside the shock absorber holder. During operation, the rebound forces are normally higher than the compression forces (for road cars which conventional coilover kits are designed to address) Therefore when youplace the car on the road, you will normally see that the spring looks ‘completely compressed’ which in actual fact it doesn’t. The static load is taken care of by the spring.

 

If you want to increase the ride height, you will have to increase the preload by compressing the coil spring as much as possible. This will however reduce your stroke length and warrants a change in the damping forces.

[Ake109]

 

 

If you want to increase the ride height, you will have to increase the preload by compressing the coil spring as much as possible. This will however reduce your stroke length and warrants a change in the damping forces.

 

Might be what the mechanic was trying to tell me in his limited English. He was saying , this is as high as you can go without going over the coilover 'normal' spec.*

 

*which still lowered my car by about 15-20mm from stock.

Edited January 12, 2015 by Ake109

[ShellVpower]

 

Might be what the mechanic was trying to tell me in his limited English. He was saying , this is as high as you can go without going over the coilover 'normal' spec.*

 

*which still lowered my car by about 15-20mm from stock.

 

Coilover kits are lowered in general. If you buy the KW kit, it will be lowered. The coilover is designed for use in race unless you are buying a Class N coil over kit used in WRC.

 

The lowering helps to give better roll resistance which is good for terrain conducive for race. However, in reality, you won't be driving your subaru on a race track condition most of the time. This is the reason why I think it is better not to lower. for road cars, especially those who travel into malaysia. Their road conditions are far from being exemplary.

 

The coilover normally is designed to lower between 20-50mm. Some kits allow lowering to 60mm. Anything over 50mm is unsafe for road use. Because if you go fast enough which for normal road conditions, is not very fast, and with the right road condition, you can lose control easily. Ride comfort is hardly your worst concern by then.

[Ake109]

 

Coilover kits are lowered in general. If you buy the KW kit, it will be lowered. The coilover is designed for use in race unless you are buying a Class N coil over kit used in WRC.

 

The lowering helps to give better roll resistance which is good for terrain conducive for race. However, in reality, you won't be driving your subaru on a race track condition most of the time. This is the reason why I think it is better not to lower. for road cars, especially those who travel into malaysia. Their road conditions are far from being exemplary.

 

The coilover normally is designed to lower between 20-50mm. Some kits allow lowering to 60mm. Anything over 50mm is unsafe for road use. Because if you go fast enough which for normal road conditions, is not very fast, and with the right road condition, you can lose control easily. Ride comfort is hardly your worst concern by then.

 

Which is one of the reasons why I said for my next car, no more coilovers! Once is enough!

 

That said, on good roads, the KWs are a joy. The cornering abilities went up a couple orders of magnitude.

[ShellVpower]

 

Which is one of the reasons why I said for my next car, no more coilovers! Once is enough!

 

That said, on good roads, the KWs are a joy. The cornering abilities went up a couple orders of magnitude.

 

Depends on which car will you get next?

And will you be able to resist the temptations against modification.

[Ake109]

 

Depends on which car will you get next?

And will you be able to resist the temptations against modification.

 

Heh. Likely the new 135i once the new model comes. Think the M-Sport versions, stock should be stiff enough.

[Yuan]

 

Which is one of the reasons why I said for my next car, no more coilovers! Once is enough!

 

That said, on good roads, the KWs are a joy. The cornering abilities went up a couple orders of magnitude.

 

How about better shocks coupled with stock springs?

 

This combination will give you firm and stable ride but good comfort level unlike the coils.