Battery Testing, Maintenance And Myths

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I HAVE DIFFICULTY FINDING INFO ON CAR MAINTENANCE

 

HOPE THIS HELPS OTHER CAR ENTHUSIAST HERE ALSO

 

Battery Testing, Maintenance And Myths

 

1. Storing a battery on a concrete floor will discharge them.

 

A hundred years ago battery cases were made of porous materials such as tar-lined wood boxes, so storing batteries on a concrete floor would accelerate their discharge. Modern battery cases are made of polypropylene or hard rubber. These cases seal better, so external leakage-causing discharge is no longer a problem, provided the top of the battery is clean.

 

2. Driving a car will fully recharge a battery.

 

There are a number of factors affecting an alternator's ability to charge a battery, such as how much current from the alternator is diverted to the battery to charge it, how long the current is available, and the temperature. Generally, idling the engine or short stop-and-go trips during bad weather or at night might not fully recharge the battery.

 

3. A battery will not explode.

 

There two types of battery explosions are external and internal. Recharging a wet lead-acid battery produces hydrogen and oxygen gasses. While spark retarding vent caps help prevent external battery explosions, sparks occur when jumping, connecting or disconnecting charger, or battery cables and ignite the gas.

 

Internal explosions usually occur while starting the engine and normally blow the filler caps or cover off and splatter electrolyte all over the engine compartment. The most probable cause is from a combination of low electrolyte levels in the battery and a low resistance bridge formed between or across the top of the plates called "treeing" between a positive and negative plate. When heavy current flows in the battery such as starting an engine, a spark occurs and ignites the residual gas in one or more of the cells. A second possible cause is a defect in the weld of one of the plate connecting straps.

 

Periodic preventive, working on batteries in well-ventilated areas, or using sealed AGM or gel cell VRLA type batteries can significantly reduce the possibility of battery explosions. To neutralize the residual battery acid, be sure to thoroughly wash the engine compartment and the back of the hood with a solution of one-pound baking soda to one gallon of warm water and rinse with water.

 

The largest number of battery explosions, while starting an engine or drawing a high current, occurs in hot climates. While not fatal, battery explosions cause thousands of eye and burn injuries each year.

 

Should a battery explosion occur and electrolyte (battery acid) get in someones' eyes, immediately flush them out with ANY drinkable liquid because seconds count.

 

4. A battery will not lose its charge sitting in storage.

 

Depending on the type of battery and temperature, batteries have a natural self-discharge or internal electro chemical "leakage" at a 1% to 25% rate per month. Over time the battery will become sulfated and fully discharged. Higher temperatures accelerate this process. A battery stored at 95

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TESTING BATTERY

 

 

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Before you do anything with a battery, you need to wear eye protection and keep any open flames away from the battery. This includes cigarettes and other smoking products. Batteries produce hydrogen gas that is extremely flammable. Batteries contain sulfuric acid so I would also recommend wearing latex gloves to keep battery acid from burning your hands.

 

Testing The Battery

 

1. Tools.

 

If you have a non-sealed battery, it is highly recommended that you use a good quality temperature compensating hydrometer. There are two basic types of hydrometers, the floating ball type and a gauge type. Personally, I prefer the gauge type. They are, I think, much easier to read and I don't have to stand there trying to decipher colored balls. Battery hydrometers can be purchased at an auto parts or battery store for less than $20.00.

 

To test a sealed battery or to troubleshoot a charging or electrical system, you will need a digital voltmeter with 0.5% (or better) accuracy. A digital voltmeter can be purchased at an electronics store, such as Radio Shack, for less than $50.00. Analog (needle type) voltmeters are not accurate enough to measure the millivolt differences of a battery's State-of-Charge or measure the output of the charging system. A battery load tester is optional.

 

2. Inspect The Battery.

 

Look for obvious problems such as a loose or broken alternator belt, low electrolyte levels, a dirty or wet battery top, corroded or swollen cables, corroded terminal mating surfaces or battery posts, loose hold-down clamps, loose cable terminals, or a leaking or damaged battery case. Repair or replace such items as required. Distilled water should be used to top off the battery fluid level.

 

3. Recharge The Battery.

 

Recharge the battery to 100% State-of-Charge. If non-sealed battery has a .030 (sometimes expressed as 30 "points") or more difference in specific gravity reading between the lowest and highest cell, then you should equalize the battery using the battery manufacturer's procedures.

 

4. Remove The Surface Charge.

 

The surface charge, if not removed, will make a weak battery appear good or a good battery appear bad. Eliminate the surface charge by allowing the battery to sit for between four to twelve hours in a warm room.

 

5. Measure The State-Of-Charge.

 

To determine the battery's State-of-Charge with the battery's electrolyte temperature at 80