Jump to content

Piggyback qns


Hamburger
 Share

Recommended Posts

Depending on your car make, it is possible to tweak your car's mileage performance with a piggyback unit. Any reason why you have highlighted Unichip and EM?

 

Hydrogen gas would help reduce consumption somewhat as it has tremendous energy content. You can incorporate leaner mixtures into the equation. Question is : Are you injecting enough consistently to make it work? There are alot of quack systems out there that promises results but none can post delivery rates [shakehead]

 

My opinion is to do piggyback first and bring the car closer to a more efficient level which is reasonably realistic ie. Don't expect a 8.0km/l car to reach beyond 10.0km/l after tuning... be reasonable in your expectations. 10-12% is rather good a yardstick to measure by.

 

Even a well tuned piggyback when facing our hot ambient weather would result in less than expected ideals.

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

It is possible to tune for better mileage on all cars.

 

I believe you have to determine if your results stem from a)using the wrong hardware or b)wrong methods applied or c)wrong piggyback setup configuration or d)inherent mechanical issues not addressed. It could be a single issue or a combination of factors.

 

For instance : I have helped a retired businessman tune his Toyota 2.4 Camry bought from Borneo Motors. He was recommended to me by my uncle. He complained of the rather poor mileage on his one year old car which he expected better mileage since the VVT-i engine was supposed to be known for its efficiency. He got by with an average 7.8-8.3km/l on RON 95. Full tank netted him an average 520-540km worth. He monitors based on the onboard information counter to derive the figures. Well... fair enough as a visual gauge to quantify and qualify any gains/losses after tuning [laugh]

 

I worked on his car and did a total of 6 individual tune trips (3 different scenarios x 2 cycles). Cutting the story short, he now gets 9.3-10.1km/l on average and full tank yields 608-620km (figures last feedback from him). He's a happy camper now [laugh]

 

He rewarded my efforts with a sharks fin & abalone meal at Paragon [laugh]

 

My point again? Your car CAN be tuned to gain mileage efficiency!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I got this idea, there is this device that will tell the stock ECU to go into open loop whenever there is a boost detected (for T/C application on N.A.), it takes the reading from the MAP to detect a boost.

 

So, I was thinking, instead of connecting it to the MAP, hotwire (may need some electronic mod) to read temperature of the engine and once engine is warm up, it will tell the stock ECU to go into open loop so the piggy back will take over sly.gifsly.gifsly.gif but I am not sure what will the effect be on the AirCon which I heard behave differently during closed loop and open loop. So, is this workable confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

It will be better to work off MAP. To 'read' and set the scaling for temperature based maybe a headache since the temp sensor maybe an oscillating 0-1v or 1-5v depending on the car manufacturer, in your case Hyundai.

 

Yes, aircon compressor do cut in/out during the whole driving sequence. How it behaves on your car I honestly don't know... Suppose your diagnostic tool should be able to show based on the triggering waveforms.

 

I have read some success/failures with such combo systems. Works on some, don't work on others. You will need to study more on compatibility application. To remain 100% open loop all the time will throw your drivability out of the window [laugh] embedded maps will be out of whack, this is for normal driving btw 1500-3000rpm (region where we spend most of the time).

 

Let me know if anything else is up. Your project should be done by xmas latest [sly]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie
(edited)

inorder to get similar yield result in car B, it'll be good to change the engine, transmition & exhaust as well.

 

1. car A & car B is of same make n model.therefore same stock engine.

2. car A has installed n dyno tuned a piggy.

3. Question is : can the piggy be taken out from car A n be installed in car B. will car B yield e same result [hur]

Edited by Myturbo
Link to post
Share on other sites

(edited)

ok, so that could be out of the window liao sweatdrop.gifsweatdrop.gifsweatdrop.gif

 

2 choice only,

 

1) I have email my friend who has a Korean engineer working for him, to forward my enquiry on the ECU datalogging and flash software that is widely available in Korea. Now waiting for the reply, if got English version I'll buy.

 

2) pay Joey $280 and do a Dyno tune again.

 

now have to get wife's 'approval' to work on my intake 'cooling' project (using peltier) on one of the weekends because it's family day sweatdrop.gifsweatdrop.gifsweatdrop.gif after that then I'll go for Dyno tune wink.gifwink.gifwink.gif

Edited by Vtim
Link to post
Share on other sites

1) Yes, it would be ideal to get the flash software. Tuning flexibility and tuner independence guaranteed for end user [nod]

 

2) He should do road tuning. Try getting Korean software 1st as the priority (provided the words are in english). Joey should be kept as last resort aka Lan Lan situation [:|]

Link to post
Share on other sites


1) Yes, it would be ideal to get the flash software. Tuning flexibility and tuner independence guaranteed for end user nod.gif

 

2) He should do road tuning. Try getting Korean software 1st as the priority (provided the words are in english). Joey should be kept as last resort aka Lan Lan situation unimpressed.gif


 

yah lor, really lan lan no choice then have to get Joey to do it, was thinking of Dynoing so can get the chart printout lah, just to see how much improvement laugh.giflaugh.giflaugh.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, that is the proper way. Dyno's existence was meant to quantify pre/post gains or losses when a product is fitted. Unfortunately, many has been lead or taught to believe that the dynanometer was meant to tune cars [shakehead][shakehead] This is a fallacy.

 

However, do bear in mind that there is an inherent +/- 1-2% allowable variation on dynos (inertia or hub) even if the same car was dynoed in the same day(ie a 100hp car would have an allowable error of 2hp reading during dyno testing).

 

So even if a product shows a gain of 3-4hp after fitting and straight dyno, it is often taken as no gains. The single gain has to be far more convincing than 3-4hp ie 7-10hp from baseline in order to qualify that indeed the product has shown gains on the subject vehicle.

 

Standard is 4 pulls on the dyno to get an accurate mean gauge. Do not trick yourself by picking the highest and the lowest run plots and tell yourself you've gained torque/power. Take note on the Final gear ratio and TCF value. Do not let the shop use a 'fudge factor' to deceive you.

Link to post
Share on other sites

ok, noted, will request for all the print outs and keep a copy if I pick the dyno route, thanks for the info thumbsup.gifthumbsup.gifthumbsup.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

after reading seems like its very scary to install piggy back, i got a emanage blue n wanted to install on my 1.6ts, can anyone recommand any place where i can safely install n tune?? thanx

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just wonder after piggy had install, when its due for battery change, will it reset the piggy settings? Which means got to re-tune again?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm on EMU

Had my ride grounded more than 3 mtns, battery detached

Went back to tuner the very next day when i'm back

Surprisingly no issue

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...