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HKS grounding kit


Circuit
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well, u can try hot inzama grounding wires..

seems not bad...

wire is definately thicker and more solid than those normal wires

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HKS. Aiya.. JB shopping is so enjoyable. Only need to brave the traffic, higher crime rate and maybe the occasional fake goods.

Haha..good one..

BTW DIY la..u can choose many colour... can also put multiple colours for your grounding in the engine bay..emm just kidding.. [laugh]

Get sorts of colour to choose from with different in resistance..go SLT any audio shop.. [cool]

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no need so much grounding la, unless u got many gadgets installed to protect your equipments & constant flow of current. niway the best conductor is not gold. just get something cheaper works the same if not better. important is how good the cable is & the installation. dun waste money. better do other mods worthwhile.

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Neutral Newbie

hi,, i am a newbie to modding car. i just got my new ride suzuki swift sport. i want to learn and do some mods to my car. i bought alot Hotstuff magazines to read and study about the performance parts and etc.. but it dun realy help me. i have some questions: wat the different between air intake, air filter, carbon filter, cold air intake and the big big mushroom head which i always see under the bonnet? wat is grounding wire as well? for wat purpose? i only know pivot voltage stabliser is for enhancing abit performance and sound quality? i wana do some real good mod but LTA friendly. My car is stock condition for the 1st step, what mod u guys recommend to install 1st> and the 2nd and 3rd steps? pls give some advice. thanks for ur help!

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bro

try changing the air filter that you see in ur engine bay the big big mushhead that i call basic modification and LTA friendly.

Changing spark plug as well will increase the performance depending on the brands....

got 1 thing is the cold air intake cooler install this will give cool air to ur engine and increase the performance....

Pivot the stabilizer that you have mention above it does in helping ur fuel economy and stabilizing the car voltage power depending on how many grounding u have....normally if u have more than 3 grounding cable ur car performance would be better depending on what type of car u r using not all car are suitable to have more than 3 point grouding wire...

this is all that i can assist u in basic modification that is LTA friendly...

other than that u can try to google it would be better [thumbsup]

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If you want to do grounding and save $$$, visit LHS in Sim Lim Tower. They sell cables at a fraction of those grounding kits. As for those connectors, they are available at Kaichin 3rd storey.

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hi...

 

regarding to the HKS grounding universal kit...

 

i saw it at accessories shop at bt merah the caltex there...

188 with instal....

is the price good?

 

secondly, the packing looks funni... the interest the packing looks like sealed plastic.

those like other ground kit tat hangs at other shops...

 

his is in a box Box, got branding outside.

purple hks wires gold hub, nuts.... but jus can open and see one...

 

is the ground kit in a box form or... plastic seal package. ???

 

fake? can get anyone using the kit to explain a bit?

 

 

this is not original HKS .....

 

original is with better box ... like u buy neckless in gold shop type of box

post-58742-1263216631_thumb.jpg

Edited by Lamemonster
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hi...

 

regarding to the HKS grounding universal kit...

 

i saw it at accessories shop at bt merah the caltex there...

188 with instal....

is the price good?

 

secondly, the packing looks funni... the interest the packing looks like sealed plastic.

those like other ground kit tat hangs at other shops...

 

his is in a box Box, got branding outside.

purple hks wires gold hub, nuts.... but jus can open and see one...

 

is the ground kit in a box form or... plastic seal package. ???

 

fake? can get anyone using the kit to explain a bit?

 

Don't know if its real of fake but would strongly advise you to save up your $$$ for better things.... Eg. Unichip or Emanqage. You won't gain any HP for it. Neither will your FC improve.......

 

 

 

 

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(edited)

dun worry. not going to spend money on wire that jus to look nice...

i using pivot wires with mega razin package.

so quite okie :)

 

ended got a jap import air intake kit for my car with tat money :)

 

 

for the other guy asking : legal mod at start.

- window film for UV protection and less heat from sun, better AC

- drop in air filter , stainless or K&N (unless u wan induction noise then open or close pod)

- iridium plugs

- basic grounding if ur car is old abt 2-3yrs old...

- front tower strut bar for better drive

- V stabliser if u play ICE.

- a good set of ICE for self enjoyment: HU, Amp, 2-way Speakers, Subwfr (transferable).Set ur budget and be happy, else u will keep throwing $$ on this

- soundproofing (if u not going to make ur car noisy)

- legal exhaust if u wan noise and better drive (muffler, extractor (downpipe) or whole set)

- turbo timer if your car is turbocharged

- gauges to feel good if you want racing look and feel good (not advise if u freq JB)

- power cut for if u go NS highway alot , wont get the top speed cut

- a good set of tires for safety and grip

- a light weight good set of rims (save FC and look good)

- LED lightings, eg. foot well lights door lights to let u feel good but dun do till like devapalee festival

 

 

all these will improve a bit and keep u going, but will not make ur car fly like super sports car.

i prefer to make my car better drive, feel good when driving.

 

for others who loves sticker is another issue which i wont touch , coz not my cup of tea

Edited by Circuit
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dun worry. not going to spend money on wire that jus to look nice...

i using pivot wires with mega razin package.

so quite okie :)

 

ended got a jap import air intake kit for my car with tat money :)

 

 

for the other guy asking : legal mod at start.

- window film for UV protection and less heat from sun, better AC

- drop in air filter , stainless or K&N (unless u wan induction noise then open or close pod)

- iridium plugs

- basic grounding if ur car is old abt 2-3yrs old...

- front tower strut bar for better drive

- V stabliser if u play ICE.

- a good set of ICE for self enjoyment: HU, Amp, 2-way Speakers, Subwfr (transferable).Set ur budget and be happy, else u will keep throwing $$ on this

- soundproofing (if u not going to make ur car noisy)

- legal exhaust if u wan noise and better drive (muffler, or whole set)

- turbo timer if your car is turbocharged

- gauges to feel good if you want racing look and feel good (not advise if u freq JB)

- power cut for if u go NS highway alot

- a good set of tires for safety and grip

- a light weight good set of rims (save FC and look good)

- LED lightings, eg. foot well lights door lights to let u feel good but dun do till like devapalee festival

 

Hoho.... I am using Pivot Ignition VS. I feel Pivot is among more decently priced VS. Some are ridiculously expensive esp. that Hot Inazma

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Just to throw in my opinions. Why are people still buying VS? What is the engineering principle behind it? Grounding? There are multiple points of earth throughout the car not just from/to the 2 battery terminals.

 

As I understand from books and internet articles, the battery is used for starting, lighting and ignition (SLI). When you crank up your engine and the flywheel turns, the entire current supply comes from your alternator to feed onboard electronics ie. ecu, auto gear, lighting, air-con etc. The battery stops delivery of current and now goes into charging phase (recharge by the alternator through i/c regulator). The circuitry is discontinued from main breaker mainly found in your key cylinder rotary switch.

 

If the above being the case, then how can VS 'stabilise' when there is no meaningful output to all circuitry?

 

I read from auto manufacturer that in fact our battery is a 'voltage stabiliser' of sorts. If that being the case, how can 4-6 AA sized capacitors be better than the big size battery itself? Especially when its running parallel and not in series?

 

Moreover, capacitors should be place very near the point of power demand ie. just behind the 2 din headunit power line. This would allow the stored energy from the capacitors to momentarily bring up the voltage should it dip suddenly due to current draw from elsewhere.

 

Tiny capacitors running parallel with your battery does not do anything. If you feel it does, it most likely psychological. Another pausible theory is that the battery current sensor 'see' a higher voltage, it then does not activate the cycling of the alternator, hence running the car feels better. Alternator is 'bluffed' into thinking battery is always full. However, this is at the expense of not charging the battery adequately. After a while, battery loses its capacity and then kaputs...

 

I was once a user of Hot Inazma, remembered bought at $420 MR model. After awhile battery died and changed new one, died again all within 3 years.

 

I began to read more and understand more about the car charging system and how it works. After that, I swore off VS products. The don't work at all no matter how you'll like to call it or package it.

 

Previously there was a car fire along highway and heard through the grapevine that a VS could have caused it. Capacitors can leak or explode when overcharged and they most definitely have a shelf life. They do not work forever.

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Just to throw in my opinions. Why are people still buying VS? What is the engineering principle behind it? Grounding? There are multiple points of earth throughout the car not just from/to the 2 battery terminals.

 

As I understand from books and internet articles, the battery is used for starting, lighting and ignition (SLI). When you crank up your engine and the flywheel turns, the entire current supply comes from your alternator to feed onboard electronics ie. ecu, auto gear, lighting, air-con etc. The battery stops delivery of current and now goes into charging phase (recharge by the alternator through i/c regulator). The circuitry is discontinued from main breaker mainly found in your key cylinder rotary switch.

 

If the above being the case, then how can VS 'stabilise' when there is no meaningful output to all circuitry?

 

I read from auto manufacturer that in fact our battery is a 'voltage stabiliser' of sorts. If that being the case, how can 4-6 AA sized capacitors be better than the big size battery itself? Especially when its running parallel and not in series?

 

Moreover, capacitors should be place very near the point of power demand ie. just behind the 2 din headunit power line. This would allow the stored energy from the capacitors to momentarily bring up the voltage should it dip suddenly due to current draw from elsewhere.

 

Tiny capacitors running parallel with your battery does not do anything. If you feel it does, it most likely psychological. Another pausible theory is that the battery current sensor 'see' a higher voltage, it then does not activate the cycling of the alternator, hence running the car feels better. Alternator is 'bluffed' into thinking battery is always full. However, this is at the expense of not charging the battery adequately. After a while, battery loses its capacity and then kaputs...

 

I was once a user of Hot Inazma, remembered bought at $420 MR model. After awhile battery died and changed new one, died again all within 3 years.

 

I began to read more and understand more about the car charging system and how it works. After that, I swore off VS products. The don't work at all no matter how you'll like to call it or package it.

 

Previously there was a car fire along highway and heard through the grapevine that a VS could have caused it. Capacitors can leak or explode when overcharged and they most definitely have a shelf life. They do not work forever.

 

Thanks for sharing. Fully agreed with you. [thumbsup]

Edited by Yuan
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