Is used auto wrx worth buying?

[Accordvtec]

My JDM 2.0 WRX is about 8 to 9 km/l. Still stock with LTA friendly HKS mullfer....

Power leh...why so good fc?

[Accordvtec]

Any one familar with Hmanxx? or should still stick with Rhommel ?

 

U tuned by Mel?

[Ignissport]

Just buy!! You only live once!! If you care about FC, better buy a cow because they eat only grass!!

 

 

wahahaha good one

[Tzc]

im driving a 2.0 manual one...my customers drives a 2.0 auto jdm version.

 

auto not bad powerful for it's purpose. of our fc is bad...but who cares just enjoy while you can.

 

[Ignissport]

the single most thing that stops me from buying a rex is the insuarance

[Strudel-]

For the ones that are concern with FC, if you dont drive around like you're on Nurburgring everytime you drive, chances are your FC will not increase significantly. My car went from around 270bhp (found online) to 340awhp and did not affect my fc much at all...

 

These are TC cars not supercharged. They're not on all the time or not on full boost all the time. My car is tuned for 1.15bar of boost but doesnt make that till higher revs... so if you think about consumption kinda of proportional to rev, you will understand what I mean. And if you change gear around 3000rpm or a bit more, your consumption should be like any other NA car of the same capacity.

[Jy3433]

Hi bros

 

Could any one enlighten me with regards to 2L auto rex?

I'm trying to buy one hopefully

What's the normal depreciation for a auto rex?most likely looking for 07 makes.

 

Which pro workshop should I be bringing it to check before buying?

Any recommendation?

 

What's also important to look out for in a 2nd rex?

 

Tks alot

 

[Queks]

I am driving s-gt. Speed always around 90 - 100. My FC is about 10km/l. 75% expressway. Just cruising at expressway alone I can hit 13 km/l.

To me, a turbo 2L car with this FC is actually not bad.

[Rayoflight]

Hello JY,

 

I think you can bargain easily for depreciation of 5-6k/pa.

 

The dealers very lam pa wan..everytime hear want to take in WRX, they will cut throat price and offer 3-4k depre. That's something you must tahan also when you sell. They will tell u all sort of b-------t like insurance ex, maintenance ex, very difficult to find buyers etc.

 

When i wanted to sell last Oct, they offered me like 30-35k for a Nov 07 autorex. That depreciation even worst than KIA picanto. Eventually, I sold to a direct buyer at 46k eventually. Patience paid off after like 4-5test drives with different direct buyers.

 

Throw this back to them now..

 

Anyway back to the autorex which i owned and sold last yr Oct. It's really an awesome car! Dont need to shift gears, just lut and go!

 

You might want to find one with good gold brembos as stock brakes are alittle soft. I personally found it quite ok cause i safe driver. :)

 

Also just make sure that the car is tune well. Alot of owners will dekit before selling and the tune might go haywire someway. Mine was like this..previous owner dekit some stuff. It didn't really drive like it should..until i retune it.. it was like heaven and earth!

 

FC wise, i was getting 9km/l (more highway driving), every month petrol 400+ (GF stay at CCK, i stay at Bishan)

 

Other than that, i think you must tahan the insurance - 3-5k min depending on your NCD and profile. The maintenance and parts changing dont come cheap too.. Timing belt: 800-1k, Radiator kaput:400-1k etc..

 

The car may come cheap, but all the factors above doesn't. Good luck in finding your monster!

Edited May 30, 2013 by Rayoflight

[1fast1]

Once you go to 450bhp...you need to do your fueling issues...fuel pump...regulator...850cc injectors...at least...and you worry about FC ??

 

Don't know about the current WRX/STI models, but from what I remember, 450 (crank) HP is very achievable with 650cc injectors. Power Enterprise sells a good aftermarket set. In fact, lots of people even use the STI "pinks" for this power level, and the car is usually able to handle it - some tuners say the STI injectors have the best flow pattern, although I cannot evaluate this claim.

 

Whatever it is, 850cc is overkill for that power level. Bigger is not necessarily better when it comes to injectors - running rich (and unpredictably rich) really robs power, fouls plugs, sucks fuel and pollutes big time. Once you're talking about 550+ crank HP, though, you're in the ballpark - you need that flow.

Edited May 31, 2013 by Turboflat4

[Ghostrider]

Don't know about the current WRX/STI models, but from what I remember, 450 (crank) HP is very achievable with 650cc injectors. Power Enterprise sells a good aftermarket set. In fact, lots of people even use the STI "pinks" for this power level, and the car is usually able to handle it - some tuners say the STI injectors have the best flow pattern, although I cannot evaluate this claim.

 

Whatever it is, 850cc is overkill for that power level. Bigger is not necessarily better when it comes to injectors - running rich (and unpredictably rich) really robs power, fouls plugs, sucks fuel and pollutes big time. Once you're talking about 550+ crank HP, though, you're in the ballpark - you need that flow.

 

Long time back...I think I was tokking about STi...thanks for the correction...its the 660cc injectors. My Rex injector at crank 370bhp already 90% duty cycle.

 

A friend once told me that any injectors that is running below 80% is waste time and overkill.

 

[Strudel-]

I am driving s-gt. Speed always around 90 - 100. My FC is about 10km/l. 75% expressway. Just cruising at expressway alone I can hit 13 km/l.

To me, a turbo 2L car with this FC is actually not bad.

 

Anyway back to the autorex which i owned and sold last yr Oct. It's really an awesome car! Dont need to shift gears, just lut and go!

 

You might want to find one with good gold brembos as stock brakes are alittle soft. I personally found it quite ok cause i safe driver. :)

 

Also just make sure that the car is tune well. Alot of owners will dekit before selling and the tune might go haywire someway. Mine was like this..previous owner dekit some stuff. It didn't really drive like it should..until i retune it.. it was like heaven and earth!

 

FC wise, i was getting 9km/l (more highway driving), every month petrol 400+ (GF stay at CCK, i stay at Bishan)

 

 

 

Thats quite good. I'm always under the impression that the rex are quite thirsty from reading older post. But it seemed like having decent FC and power is still possible with proper tuning. Tuning will make you think its a different car in all.

 

 

[Pms]

http://www.xcceleration.com/4EAT-101.htm

 

4EAT stands for Four-Speed Electronic Automatic Transmission. This simply means that your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission with four gears. The gears for the 4EAT are as follows:

 

Automatic transmission gear ratios:

 

1st - 2.785

 

2nd - 1.545

 

3rd - 1.000

 

4th - 0.694

 

Reverse - 2.272

 

Final drive ratio - 4.11

 

Each gear can be taken to the following MPH

 

1st-38

 

2nd-71

 

3rd-112

 

The 4EAT is also equipped with the VTD (Variable Torque Distribution) AWD system. This AWD system adjusts power to wheels depending on driving conditions, making it more technically advanced than the AWD system used in manual-equipped vehicles. The normal driving split is 45% to the front wheels and 55% to the rear wheels.

 

How does the 4EAT differ from the 5MT? Is it better or worse for performance?

 

The first difference between the 4EAT and 5MT is the AWD system. 5MT models use a permanent 50/50 split between the front and rear wheels, whereas models equipped with the automatic make use of the technically superior VTD system (mentioned above). The second difference is the gearing. The 4EAT uses 4 gears to make use of its power, where 5MT models make use of 5 gears.

 

From a stop: The 4EAT (stock) is much different performance-wise than the 5MT. Models equipped with the 5MT are able to achieve their pavement-rippling sub-six second 0-60 and low 14 second

[Jy3433]

Many thanks rayoflight bro

 

Could u advise workshop that u used to tuned with?

I'll call and ask about the body checks etc if they do offer.

 

I'm not too worried abt fc cos only using it to send kids to school on weekdays.

[Strudel-]

http://www.xcceleration.com/4EAT-101.htm

 

The 4EAT is also equipped with the VTD (Variable Torque Distribution) AWD system. This AWD system adjusts power to wheels depending on driving conditions, making it more technically advanced than the AWD system used in manual-equipped vehicles. The normal driving split is 45% to the front wheels and 55% to the rear wheels.

 

How does the 4EAT differ from the 5MT? Is it better or worse for performance?

 

The first difference between the 4EAT and 5MT is the AWD system. 5MT models use a permanent 50/50 split between the front and rear wheels, whereas models equipped with the automatic make use of the technically superior VTD system (mentioned above). The second difference is the gearing. The 4EAT uses 4 gears to make use of its power, where 5MT models make use of 5 gears.

 

Everything else remaining the same, I would have preferred a manual in the WRX. But in this particular case, everything else is not the same. Far from it! Let

Edited May 31, 2013 by Strudel-

[S4vtec]

Don't know about the current WRX/STI models, but from what I remember, 450 (crank) HP is very achievable with 650cc injectors. Power Enterprise sells a good aftermarket set. In fact, lots of people even use the STI "pinks" for this power level, and the car is usually able to handle it - some tuners say the STI injectors have the best flow pattern, although I cannot evaluate this claim.

 

Whatever it is, 850cc is overkill for that power level. Bigger is not necessarily better when it comes to injectors - running rich (and unpredictably rich) really robs power, fouls plugs, sucks fuel and pollutes big time. Once you're talking about 550+ crank HP, though, you're in the ballpark - you need that flow.

 

 

hey, you seem to have taken the " posioned" pathway of the GD rex before.. i humbly seek your advice..... to get some suggestions to lightly tune my stock 2.5 wrx manual without sacrificing reliability and too much FC to get 300-350 crank ? everything i have now is stock... expcept for a HKS hi silent, 255 walbro....

[StefanK]

http://www.xcceleration.com/4EAT-101.htm

 

4EAT stands for Four-Speed Electronic Automatic Transmission. This simply means that your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission with four gears. The gears for the 4EAT are as follows:

 

Automatic transmission gear ratios:

 

1st - 2.785

 

2nd - 1.545

 

3rd - 1.000

 

4th - 0.694

 

Reverse - 2.272

 

Final drive ratio - 4.11

 

Each gear can be taken to the following MPH

 

1st-38

 

2nd-71

 

3rd-112

 

The 4EAT is also equipped with the VTD (Variable Torque Distribution) AWD system. This AWD system adjusts power to wheels depending on driving conditions, making it more technically advanced than the AWD system used in manual-equipped vehicles. The normal driving split is 45% to the front wheels and 55% to the rear wheels.

 

How does the 4EAT differ from the 5MT? Is it better or worse for performance?

 

The first difference between the 4EAT and 5MT is the AWD system. 5MT models use a permanent 50/50 split between the front and rear wheels, whereas models equipped with the automatic make use of the technically superior VTD system (mentioned above). The second difference is the gearing. The 4EAT uses 4 gears to make use of its power, where 5MT models make use of 5 gears.

 

From a stop: The 4EAT (stock) is much different performance-wise than the 5MT. Models equipped with the 5MT are able to achieve their pavement-rippling sub-six second 0-60 and low 14 second

[1fast1]

hey, you seem to have taken the " posioned" pathway of the GD rex before.. i humbly seek your advice..... to get some suggestions to lightly tune my stock 2.5 wrx manual without sacrificing reliability and too much FC to get 300-350 crank ? everything i have now is stock... expcept for a HKS hi silent, 255 walbro....

 

Actually, I've taken the poisoned path twice, both on GDA 2.0l WRXs, a bugeye and a cockeye. But I've never had a 2.5l car. Also remember that I sold my last WRX more than 5 years ago, so I'm extremely rusty. So I don't know if I'm qualified to advise you on your hawkeye, but maybe some general pointers, and the more current bros can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Achieving 300-350 crank ps/hp should be very easy on a 2.5l engine. Of course, the torque should be even higher than the equivalent 2.0l setup.

 

Right now, you've got an aftermarket exhaust and a fuel pump. The fuel pump certainly won't be wasted if you do up the car properly, but right now, I'm wondering how useful it is. Because you haven't actually done anything to the ECU air-fuel maps to "tell" the car how to use that fuel pump.

 

I think your figure is achievable with three main and two supporting mods: uprated turbo, exhaust upgrade and an ECU reflash (main); fuel pump and injectors (supporting). If you're a trackie, an oil cooler upgrade is almost mandatory, but this is not necessary on a street-driven car.

 

With regard to the uprated turbo - VF34 was the option I used twice, and it's a great choice for modest power with quick spool-up but I'm sure there are now newer options with better characteristics like faster spool and higher cfm. *Don't* just go for a very big turbo because, while you'll technically achieve your power aim easily, you'll wreck your enjoyment waiting for it to spool up. A 2.5l engine puts out enough exhaust flow to support a bigger turbo, but still.

 

I've already mentioned the exhaust. The stock WRX exhaust is very restrictive, a mod (like decatting at least) or a full upgrade is almost mandatory. The problem here is that the LTA legal exhausts don't help with removing the restriction - they just look good and sound a little better (more bassy). To get some real power out of your engine, you'll need to change at least your downpipe and remove your cats. I'm not familiar with your chosen aftermarket exhaust - I used a Trust Power Extreme Titanium back then.

 

ECU upgrade: three main choices: stock with reflash like EcuTek or OpenECU, piggybacks and full 3rd party replacement ECUs. Don't do the middle option - piggybacks are crap, in my experience in my first WRX with Unichip. I used a Hydra Nemesis II (full replacement) in my second WRX and there are many, many ECU options here, but I'll tell you now to go with the first option instead - reuse your own ECU with a reflash coupled with a good custom dyno tune. Cheaper, more reliable, and not difficult to reverse. Anyway, what really matters is the tuner.

 

You already have the fuel pump, get the injectors as well. STI pinks should do the job fine.

 

Some things not to do (or bother with): air intake and BOV. The stock intake is *fine*, up to a power of something like 400+ crank hp. Leave the poor stock airbox alone, if you cut it up and change to a cone filter, etc., you're going to have a tough time selling the car. The only thing a cone filter does is to give you a nice induction noise and let you hear the stock BPV (and a BOV more clearly), but if you care only about power, you wouldn't bother with all this. Don't even bother with a BOV (blow-off valve), it sounds lame and makes the car run rich (the reason why is technical - has to do with the way the WRX mass air flow (MAF) sensor works). This can cause backfires especially if you've also decatted the exhaust. Big-time LTA bait in addition to petrol wastage and pollution. The stock BPV (bypass valve) is completely adequate.

 

A bit of a grey-area: the intercooler. I would say your stock TMIC is fine. An upgrade to an STI TMIC can't hurt, but is probably not necessary. You're nowhere near the required power range to justify an FMIC.

 

Bottom-line: don't undertake this "odyssey" alone - get help. I trust Ah Keong from BKS Admiralty. Ah Tan from BKS AMK is even better technically, but I had a language barrier with him. Ah Boon at BMS is also OK. Can't go wrong with any of these people (I hope they're all still doing the same things, but it's been years since I last met them). None of them are tuners, but they can suggest the important mods and intro you to their preferred tuners. The tuners will arrange for a road and dyno tune after discussing what you want and managing your expectations.

 

Good luck! I've left the WRXs, and I had left turbo cars for a while, but now I'm back with a twin-scroll 3 litre inline 6 with my BMW M135i. I can tell you it's a real rush to be back in a proper turbo car after my N/A Porsche 911. Boost is addictive.

Edited May 31, 2013 by Turboflat4