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#1

Posted 19 March 2010 - 05:18 PM

Chiongster
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Hi Bros,

I have not done a ATF flushing ever! and my ride is hitting 50km...

Wondering whether i should do one???

#2

Posted 19 March 2010 - 05:23 PM

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Hi Bros,

I have not done a ATF flushing ever! and my ride is hitting 50km...

Wondering whether i should do one???


My ride is over 84k mileage.

Never done an ATF flush before.

However, I changed my ATF fluid at every 40k mileage interval.

If not sure, please refer to car's service manual.
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#3

Posted 19 March 2010 - 05:24 PM

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FLush is to change 90% of your ATF while an ATF change is just a 50% change. is your atf fluid still nice and pink? Any burnt smell? Take out atf fluid dip stick and dab it on a paper towel. see colour and smell. manual states 60K change ATF fluid. but i believe each change should be a flush.

#4

Posted 19 March 2010 - 05:46 PM

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Hi Bros,

I have not done a ATF flushing ever! and my ride is hitting 50km...

Wondering whether i should do one???


for me, rule of time is flush after each 8 serving
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Vampire
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#5

Posted 19 March 2010 - 08:31 PM

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Hi Bros,

I have not done a ATF flushing ever! and my ride is hitting 50km...

Wondering whether i should do one???



50km no need to flush ATF
flush toilet can already

#6

Posted 19 March 2010 - 08:55 PM

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Read your car manual?

Transmission fluid is not like engine oil as it is in a closed system so will not be contaminated that easily. Some car manufacturers do state that the ATF is sealed for life but I think a safe change interval is every 2 to 3 years. Doesn't cost much and will give peace of mind.

Of course this only applies to people who wish to keep their cars long term and enjoy problem-free motoring.


Hi Bros,

I have not done a ATF flushing ever! and my ride is hitting 50km...

Wondering whether i should do one???



#7

Posted 19 March 2010 - 09:08 PM

Pisces69
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Read your car manual?

Transmission fluid is not like engine oil as it is in a closed system so will not be contaminated that easily. Some car manufacturers do state that the ATF is sealed for life but I think a safe change interval is every 2 to 3 years. Doesn't cost much and will give peace of mind.

Of course this only applies to people who wish to keep their cars long term and enjoy problem-free motoring.

=============

ATfs biggest enemy is heat.

The autobox gets very hot under certain conditions & that fries the ATF & it loses its lubricating properties. It also gets contaminated by metal particles during use.

I used to do the ATF flush last time every 50K km(a bit kiasu tongue.gif ) instead of the recommended 60K km on my Toyota. That time I used a synthetic ATF from RP which is quite ex now.

Now my Optra handbook has no mention on changing the ATF. It only says to top-up or change when necessary, as in too low or looks brownish or feels gritty. So I just do the drain & fill every 10K or 20K km during my regular servicings. Now I use the mineral ATF from Toyota Type IV which is very much cheaper.

My recent drain & fill & I noticed its still very pink so I guess I will only do it every 20K to 30K km from now on.

But I do feel the RP synthetic ATF gave much smoother shifts. Maybe I wil still do a complete flush with it & leave it for 50K km in future.


#8

Posted 19 March 2010 - 09:15 PM

Weiming
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To achieve smooth transmission shifts, the oil weightage should be as recommended by the manufacturer (eg. 75w90) and whether GL4 or GL5 rated.

For example in my manual trannie, if I use a GL5 rated oil, the shifts get very notchy as the additives coats over my syncromesh that affects smooth shifting. Thus, I have to use GL 4 rated MTF.

#9

Posted 19 March 2010 - 09:37 PM

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To achieve smooth transmission shifts, the oil weightage should be as recommended by the manufacturer (eg. 75w90) and whether GL4 or GL5 rated.

For example in my manual trannie, if I use a GL5 rated oil, the shifts get very notchy as the additives coats over my syncromesh that affects smooth shifting. Thus, I have to use GL 4 rated MTF.

===========

Er....No lah.

I toking about ATF which is for autobox.

This means only follow the type of ATF required. No viscosity rating for ATF as its all atandard & same for all the ATF eg: Dexron. But have Dexron II, IIe, III IV & V.

I guess V sud b the most advanced but so far I only got upto III.

#10

Posted 19 March 2010 - 09:43 PM

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Never ~ just drain and fill every 20K 
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"MIND CONTROL"

We are being hypnotised and brainwashed !!! 

#11

Posted 19 March 2010 - 10:22 PM

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So sorry, no experience with slush box so my apologies for using MT viscosity as an example.

But I think the principle applies in that the right grade of ATF should be used for optimal shifting performance and longevity :)

#12

Posted 19 March 2010 - 10:58 PM

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ive seen mal workshop drop the ATF oil pan of a toyota wish and change the ATF filter as well... the mech told me that its pretty common in Mal, in fact, he gave me a weird look... and ask me, if not how to change oil?? I told him that i never own an AT car b4, so not too sure.... but when i ask around workshop in SG, never came across such practice cos its very ex... why r there such big diff in the practice??

#13

Posted 19 March 2010 - 11:19 PM

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=============

ATfs biggest enemy is heat.

The autobox gets very hot under certain conditions & that fries the ATF & it loses its lubricating properties. It also gets contaminated by metal particles during use.

I used to do the ATF flush last time every 50K km(a bit kiasu tongue.gif ) instead of the recommended 60K km on my Toyota. That time I used a synthetic ATF from RP which is quite ex now.

Now my Optra handbook has no mention on changing the ATF. It only says to top-up or change when necessary, as in too low or looks brownish or feels gritty. So I just do the drain & fill every 10K or 20K km during my regular servicings. Now I use the mineral ATF from Toyota Type IV which is very much cheaper.

My recent drain & fill & I noticed its still very pink so I guess I will only do it every 20K to 30K km from now on.

But I do feel the RP synthetic ATF gave much smoother shifts. Maybe I wil still do a complete flush with it & leave it for 50K km in future.


Usually, for OEM parts, I will go back to OEM fluids or those recommended by manufacturers.

For example, my ATF oil cannot use other brands. Must use back Diaqueen type. Feedback from other same make car owners.

Edited by Yuan, 19 March 2010 - 11:20 PM.

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#14

Posted 19 March 2010 - 11:32 PM

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never flush before only done drain and change every 30k, just change my ATF filter recently at 95k. so far nothing leh

#15

Posted 20 March 2010 - 10:14 AM

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Never ~ just drain and fill every 20K 


Nowadays I do that for my ATF change as I drove hard on my car and heavily utilized it.
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#16

Posted 20 March 2010 - 02:02 PM

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My Ride is 4 plus yrs old ard 55k km milage,i never flush my Auto Gearbox B4,i only drain and refill every 10k.
So far so good.plus i often drag my gears to redline using tiptronic and its an korean made..

#17

Posted 20 March 2010 - 07:13 PM

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For those who change their ATF. Remember to change the filter as well. AFAIK, some models (like ZF gearbox) has both a filter and a magnet to trap debris. So, if you change the fluid, remember to change the filter and clean the magnet.

#18

Posted 20 March 2010 - 08:34 PM

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So sorry, no experience with slush box so my apologies for using MT viscosity as an example.

But I think the principle applies in that the right grade of ATF should be used for optimal shifting performance and longevity :)

================

ATF slightly different. There is no "grade" or thickness unlike manual tranny.

Only u must use the correct type of ATF(Dexron, Mercon, Diaqueen, Mopar, etc) as they have different properties.

The synthetic ATFs r better as they can take more heat but also more ex. The choice is yours depending on your driving style & budget.

ATF/autobox shifts gears differently from a manual gearbox. They use Planetary gears instead.



#19

Posted 20 March 2010 - 08:42 PM

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ive seen mal workshop drop the ATF oil pan of a toyota wish and change the ATF filter as well... the mech told me that its pretty common in Mal, in fact, he gave me a weird look... and ask me, if not how to change oil?? I told him that i never own an AT car b4, so not too sure.... but when i ask around workshop in SG, never came across such practice cos its very ex... why r there such big diff in the practice??

================

Dropping the pan is good as u can change the ATF filter & also check the magnets if any.

The disadvantage is the cost as u wil need to replace the ATF filter & pan gasket. Also the ws must do a proper job, otherwise the joint might leak or some other thing might go wrong.

My Optra ATF filter costs >$80 sweatdrop.gif so I wil only change maybe when I hit 150K km. Most other cars, the ATF filter is only about $10-$20 each.

I definitely wont trust a JB ws to do the job for me cos those that I saw were mostly chap-a-lang & also they dont have much experience with autoboxes as most MY cars r still manual & only recently do u see autos in the newer MY cars.



#20

Posted 20 March 2010 - 08:49 PM

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Usually, for OEM parts, I will go back to OEM fluids or those recommended by manufacturers.

For example, my ATF oil cannot use other brands. Must use back Diaqueen type. Feedback from other same make car owners.


===================

Yes, me too. I also try to stick with OEM or Original as far as possible. thumbsup.gif

Mitsu uses Diaqueen but now got some brands of ATFs which r compatible with all autoboxes. RP is like that.

I have not tried yet as I am not sure how good they really r as there must b some compromise if they can b used on the different types of autoboxes.


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