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2010 Mazda 3 rpm

Bjory

By Bjory,
in Japanese Talk

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Swordwind

Swordwind

Clutched

:blink: I tot the activematic is a manumatic that is it has a torque converter.

 

Dont torque converter cars 'free wheel' just like bicycle meaning theres no engine break.

 

hmmm..to be frank i hv zero knowledge behind the technicality of these technologies. haha.. but i'm 100% sure engine break does work for my mazda 3. i've been using it everyday.. or at least, it feels like it's working like that. haha.. and good also if somebody can shed some light behind this feature too, in case what i have been doing is harmful to my car all along.. :wacko:

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Bjory

Bjory

1st Gear
  • Author

Just now my car rev above 3k rpm. Then got some smell coming out from the air con. Anybody knows why?

The smell always come out when high rev.

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Jchuacl

Jchuacl

Clutched

For modern cars, no problems in revving up to 4krpm for the initial few gears. It won't guzzle your fuel or damage your engine.

 

And it's good to rev up the car once a while so as to give the engine a workout. It's analogous to humans where we need to exercise regularly to ensure our heart works well.

 

I realized my new ride which I'm still running in, even when I gently accelerate, my rpm still seems quite high. Around 2500 - 3000. Is this normal? Any 2010 Mazda 3 owners can comment? I'm driving the 1.6A.

 

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Mzrmazda3

Mzrmazda3

6th Gear
(edited)

Just now my car rev above 3k rpm. Then got some smell coming out from the air con. Anybody knows why?

The smell always come out when high rev.

 

It's a pretty common issue with Mz3 [nod]

 

Mine also experience the same when the ride was new ... [nod]

 

But after lutting it many times and as time passes by, the smell will go away .... [drivingcar]

 

Now even when i lut til 6500 rpm, there is no more 'Chao Ta' smell coming out from the aircon vent [drivingcar]

Edited by Mzrmazda3
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Zombieboy

Zombieboy

Neutral Newbie

Hi, just offtrack a bit. Now i'm driving 2008 mazda 3sp, thinking of upgrading to 2nd hand new model 1.6A. Is it worth it? Is the horsepower the same? Any comments & thanks.

Btw, i saw a number of them selling after just 1 year, wondering why????

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Civic6656

Civic6656

1st Gear
(edited)

Hi, just offtrack a bit. Now i'm driving 2008 mazda 3sp, thinking of upgrading to 2nd hand new model 1.6A. Is it worth it? Is the horsepower the same? Any comments & thanks.

Btw, i saw a number of them selling after just 1 year, wondering why????

 

Not worth it at all. I believed you got it for around $55k with OMV of about $15k if you got it brand new?

Latest model OMV is about another 5k more than your current one which is negligible at the end of the 10th year.

You will be paying for higher COE means higher depreciation if you intend to drive for long.

Same engine, same chassis and the rear seat is as crampy.

Only the look is different with some additional electronics gadget. Worth it? I don't think so. [;)]

 

Some are selling cos they enjoyed they low depreciation for the 1st year cos COE shot up and used car market called for higher price.

My friend sold his Civic and enjoyed "free" drive for 1 year. Buy price = Sell price :D

Edited by Civic6656
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Sabretan

Sabretan

4th Gear

Not worth it at all. I believed you got it for around $55k with OMV of about $15k if you got it brand new?

Latest model OMV is about another 5k more than your current one which is negligible at the end of the 10th year.

You will be paying for higher COE means higher depreciation if you intend to drive for long.

Same engine, same chassis and the rear seat is as crampy.

Only the look is different with some additional electronics gadget. Worth it? I don't think so. [;)]

 

Some are selling cos they enjoyed they low depreciation for the 1st year cos COE shot up and used car market called for higher price.

My friend sold his Civic and enjoyed "free" drive for 1 year. Buy price = Sell price :D

 

Not really free drive lah...still got to pay petrol, parking fees, road tax, insurance, car grooming etc...unless he sold for higher than his purchase price which covered all of the above too....

 

but yes, people who bought in 2008 n late 2009 can sell their car near or at their purchase price...even some managed to sell for a profit...

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Zombieboy

Zombieboy

Neutral Newbie

Not worth it at all. I believed you got it for around $55k with OMV of about $15k if you got it brand new?

Latest model OMV is about another 5k more than your current one which is negligible at the end of the 10th year.

You will be paying for higher COE means higher depreciation if you intend to drive for long.

Same engine, same chassis and the rear seat is as crampy.

Only the look is different with some additional electronics gadget. Worth it? I don't think so. [;)]

 

Some are selling cos they enjoyed they low depreciation for the 1st year cos COE shot up and used car market called for higher price.

My friend sold his Civic and enjoyed "free" drive for 1 year. Buy price = Sell price :D

 

Oic, ya i bought it at 60k. Thanks for yr advice, so now is buying 2nd hand car a good time?

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Zombieboy

Zombieboy

Neutral Newbie

Not worth it at all. I believed you got it for around $55k with OMV of about $15k if you got it brand new?

Latest model OMV is about another 5k more than your current one which is negligible at the end of the 10th year.

You will be paying for higher COE means higher depreciation if you intend to drive for long.

Same engine, same chassis and the rear seat is as crampy.

Only the look is different with some additional electronics gadget. Worth it? I don't think so. [;)]

 

Some are selling cos they enjoyed they low depreciation for the 1st year cos COE shot up and used car market called for higher price.

My friend sold his Civic and enjoyed "free" drive for 1 year. Buy price = Sell price :D

 

Oic, ya i bought it at 60k. Thanks for yr advice, so now is buying 2nd hand car a good time?

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Civic6656

Civic6656

1st Gear
(edited)

Oic, ya i bought it at 60k. Thanks for yr advice, so now is buying 2nd hand car a good time?

 

My advice is to keep ur car for now. New car price fluctuation is much greater then ur current car. E.g if COE crashed and new car price dropped $20k. Ur current car price when trade in will not also drop $20k cos u still have ur existing remaining COE, OMV and body price.

 

I remember when the 1st gen Mazda 3 launched in 2004, the price was closed to $90k!

Civic was $80k then. Which will u choose?

You got ur 3 at quite a good price already. Give COE about 1.5 yrs to plunge then go grab.

Edited by Civic6656
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Iygnaug

Iygnaug

1st Gear

Bro if u read the owner's manual, u dont really have to run in the car as of olden days.

Just dont maintain a certain rpm for too long and of cos dont redline it till u change to synthetic oil, u will be fine :D

And yes, D mode is more efficient compared to semi-manual mode in terms of FC for cruising.

 

I agree. Actually, the salesman at mazda told me that all their engines are run in before delivery so when you collect the key, you don't have to worry abt reving the engine. true?

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Blackyv

Blackyv

Turbocharged

I agree. Actually, the salesman at mazda told me that all their engines are run in before delivery so when you collect the key, you don't have to worry abt reving the engine. true?

 

i've never run in my previous and current car.. drive normal the moment i drovie it out from showroom ... not a beliver of what maintain 2krpm, blablabla........ for my previous vios, i even drive with high speed (~160km/h) back to KL when the odo reads only 700km+.... i did my 1K service when odo read 17xxkm at BM after that trip....... the only thing i did normally is i will change the mineral oil when odo hit ~200km.... [:p]

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Bjory

Bjory

1st Gear
  • Author

i've never run in my previous and current car.. drive normal the moment i drovie it out from showroom ... not a beliver of what maintain 2krpm, blablabla........ for my previous vios, i even drive with high speed (~160km/h) back to KL when the odo reads only 700km+.... i did my 1K service when odo read 17xxkm at BM after that trip....... the only thing i did normally is i will change the mineral oil when odo hit ~200km.... [:p]

 

Actually running in or not running in just to make yourself feel better only. Ultimately, maybe the car will not be with you for 10 years. By then when engine might give some problems, it probably towards the later part of 5 years.

 

So for me, I thought running in protect the engine and make myself feel better :)

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Notsogoodman

Notsogoodman

4th Gear

My advice is to keep ur car for now. New car price fluctuation is much greater then ur current car. E.g if COE crashed and new car price dropped $20k. Ur current car price when trade in will not also drop $20k cos u still have ur existing remaining COE, OMV and body price.

 

I remember when the 1st gen Mazda 3 launched in 2004, the price was closed to $90k!

Civic was $80k then. Which will u choose?

You got ur 3 at quite a good price already. Give COE about 1.5 yrs to plunge then go grab.

 

Actually the Mazda3 was launched in 2004 at near to $80K (the listed price does not include discount)

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