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Proton Sataria NEo


Mini-itx
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I am not sure if its good to go PDT. From what Roadtricks has mentioned and what I have read/heard, The Siemens VDO is rather difficult to tune. So most people will just install a piggyback like Unichip instead. Furthermore, piggyback has very wide support community and many WS using it in SG and JB.

 

If not, can also install a standalone. I am contemplating to install a Vipec V44 and get rid of the stock ECU totally.

 

bro, PDT is only a fraction of the cost of a piggyback! [laugh]

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Hi! May I know what suspension are you using now and what coilovers do you recommend for the Neo. I love its handling and I do not upset it too much. I just want to reduce body roll and improve handling further.

 

Btw, I just realise not too long along that this car is using a multilink suspension for the rear.... Wow..... Its practically unheard of at this price. Even Jazz and Swift etc are just using the usual torsion bar. This would perhaps explain its handling.

 

well there is BC and D2 and Gap and HWL.. or just change lowering springs to reduce bodyrolls..

 

too bad no aftermarket arms.. [bigcry]

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Hi! May I know what suspension are you using now and what coilovers do you recommend for the Neo. I love its handling and I do not upset it too much. I just want to reduce body roll and improve handling further.

 

Btw, I just realise not too long along that this car is using a multilink suspension for the rear.... Wow..... Its practically unheard of at this price. Even Jazz and Swift etc are just using the usual torsion bar. This would perhaps explain its handling.

I'm using Tein Superstreet coilovers.By far this is the costliest suspension system on the market but to me, performs the best on the track.As for recommendation wise, I believe GAB is very good too. Go for the SS series, the top of the line.

(p.s. how to insert pic?? I can post some of my suspension pics if u would like to see.)

Edited by RoadTricks
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well there is BC and D2 and Gap and HWL.. or just change lowering springs to reduce bodyrolls..

 

too bad no aftermarket arms.. [bigcry]

no need aftermarket arms, juz do ur camber and u will be good to go!

[:p] [:p] [:p]

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I'm using Tein Superstreet coilovers.By far this is the costliest suspension system on the market but to me, performs the best on the track.As for recommendation wise, I believe GAB is very good too. Go for the SS series, the top of the line.

(p.s. how to insert pic?? I can post some of my suspension pics if u would like to see.)

 

Hi pls pm me your pics

 

thanks

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no need aftermarket arms, juz do ur camber and u will be good to go!

[:p] [:p] [:p]

 

i am using caamber nuts only, 1.4degree.

 

btw, both wheels must be same degree right? I heard from hawk tayar the driver's side is lesser than the passenger side? :blink:

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i am using caamber nuts only, 1.4degree.

 

btw, both wheels must be same degree right? I heard from hawk tayar the driver's side is lesser than the passenger side? :blink:

 

I think its due to weight distribution. Cause the engine is on the driver's side.

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i am using caamber nuts only, 1.4degree.

 

btw, both wheels must be same degree right? I heard from hawk tayar the driver's side is lesser than the passenger side? :blink:

I would recommend same degree.But to be on the safe side, check your tires periodically to see if the wear rate is the same.

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Btw asking if evo wheel hub could fit the neo. cause i am thinking of changing to 5 bolt pcd for the wheels.

Which Evo series? Can I know what is your reason for wanting to do so? Just wondering if it is really important and practical for you to do so because apart from the amount of money needed, finding a workshop which has absolute confidence in doing that is another problem. I find that anything that requires tampering with the drivetrain/wheel assembly etc is a safety risk, and I will only do it if the workshop has done that on a similar car before, like 10 cars before mine.What is the reason for wanting to change to 5 bolt?

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F

Which Evo series? Can I know what is your reason for wanting to do so? Just wondering if it is really important and practical for you to do so because apart from the amount of money needed, finding a workshop which has absolute confidence in doing that is another problem. I find that anything that requires tampering with the drivetrain/wheel assembly etc is a safety risk, and I will only do it if the workshop has done that on a similar car before, like 10 cars before mine.What is the reason for wanting to change to 5 bolt?

 

Cause i intend to change my brakes and rims to wider ones. its hard to find 17 x 7.5 or 8 for 4 bolt pattern. also hard to find rotors. thus going 5 bolt. i know the satria s2000 is also 4 bolt with alcon brakes and 18 rims. but its way too expensive for me.

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F

 

Cause i intend to change my brakes and rims to wider ones. its hard to find 17 x 7.5 or 8 for 4 bolt pattern. also hard to find rotors. thus going 5 bolt. i know the satria s2000 is also 4 bolt with alcon brakes and 18 rims. but its way too expensive for me.

You haven't look hard enough.If you intend to change brakes, there are a plenty of calipers available.You can use ALL of Evo series calipers, just have to do the brackets.Aftermarket calipers there are Project Mu, VTTR, Works-Engineering just to name a few.Rotors are available too.You can use those of DBA, Project Mu and many others, though some need to change your wheel bearing.

Wider rims are available too.I am using those patterns you mentioned, SSR Type-C rs, but there are many others that are available in the market.You can try to source those rims in KL, and have them delivered to you for a minimal transport fee.

I find that maintaining the factory settings result in a peace of mind, and I would tamper with the accessories, rather than the factory settings.

By the way, I am using Evo calipers with Project Mu SCR Plus Slotted rotors with PMU B-Spec pads.It is possible without having to change the entire wheel assembly which can be more costly and carries more risk in the end.

 

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You haven't look hard enough.If you intend to change brakes, there are a plenty of calipers available.You can use ALL of Evo series calipers, just have to do the brackets.Aftermarket calipers there are Project Mu, VTTR, Works-Engineering just to name a few.Rotors are available too.You can use those of DBA, Project Mu and many others, though some need to change your wheel bearing.

Wider rims are available too.I am using those patterns you mentioned, SSR Type-C rs, but there are many others that are available in the market.You can try to source those rims in KL, and have them delivered to you for a minimal transport fee.

I find that maintaining the factory settings result in a peace of mind, and I would tamper with the accessories, rather than the factory settings.

By the way, I am using Evo calipers with Project Mu SCR Plus Slotted rotors with PMU B-Spec pads.It is possible without having to change the entire wheel assembly which can be more costly and carries more risk in the end.

 

Oh cool then I don't need to change hub. btw to upload photos u need get a photo account like photobucket. upload it there and then link them. eg

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I test drive the first gen of satria 1.3a, 1.6a n 1.6 full specs when it came out years ago. All 3 fail my handling and comfort test. The car Was too hard to drive n very uncomfortable n feel unsafe on the road.

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I test drive the first gen of satria 1.3a, 1.6a n 1.6 full specs when it came out years ago. All 3 fail my handling and comfort test. The car Was too hard to drive n very uncomfortable n feel unsafe on the road.

 

so wat car did u go for in the end?

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I test drive the first gen of satria 1.3a, 1.6a n 1.6 full specs when it came out years ago. All 3 fail my handling and comfort test. The car Was too hard to drive n very uncomfortable n feel unsafe on the road.

 

Not surprising. this car is not meant for everyone. the suspension is on the stiff side and not really comfortable. You can literally feel the bumps on the road.

 

Its also harder to drive as steering is quite sensitive. so any small inputs can result in the car moving side to side. bumps can cause car to steer one side.

 

But once you master it u will like it.. its in fact very forgiving. car gives pkenty of feedback on the road. it does not snap into oversteer easily even with 4 wheels sliding. you can throw the car around the corners and catch it easily when you lose grip.

 

But as i said before. Not everyone will like it.

 

Right now my main issue is understeer. i want the rear to slide out more. still sourcing for good coilovers.

 

Btw comfort is not my priority. only handling

 

 

 

 

 

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