SUNNY N16 owners come in if your FC is terrible...

[Ken4555]

Hi All...

 

i'm not a car expert mech watever... just have many experiences experimenting with my cars...

 

for all the Sunny N16 owners who have good FC... congrats lucky you... for all those who have been having terrible FC... forget all the bullsh1t gadgets to save fuel... forget able driving so bloody light footed make driving damn sian... we all know higher tyre pressures, lighter loads (boot and passengers), lighter foot, more highway driving, clean air filter, free flowing exhaust, less useage of aircon... etc will give you better FC...

 

first i want you all to know that my N16 is a manual, i drive heavy footed very often... i use 205/16/55... and i get 400km minimum with every full tank (till light comes out)... (sometimes almost 500km up if i continue driving after the light comes on) tats if i really drive as light footed as i can... do note that i pump petrol until there is no flowback(i do not shake the car it looks ridiculous)... and after light comes on its safe to drive another 30km up or more (i have tried to approx 50km more at most so far...)

 

if you have tried so many ways to better your sunny FC but fail even after spending so much money on ridiculous gadgets or even those bloody expensive magnets... STOP WASTING $$$... let me share with you this now...

 

logic...

 

*we all know that those who use a 5W/20 or 5W/30... will get better FC compared to those using a 5W/40 or 5W/50...

*i asked around and most agree that a 5W/20-30 will give you up to 50km per full tank more than 5W/40-50...

 

trust me unless your mech used a measuring bottle for your Sunny's EO, i'll bet my money there is too much Engine oil in your car... in the morning after you have parked your car overnite, measure your Engine oil with your dip stick.. take out wipe clean and push back in and check... if the oil if way above the F mark, which i believe it will be, go get an oil change immediately when you can... get a accurate measuring bottle, not just any EO bottle with side markings...

 

if you didnt change your oil filter cause still very new, drain all your old oil and measure 2.5liters of EO and fill ur engine...

if you change your oil filter, drain old oil, measure 2.7liters of EO and fill the Engine... (this amt of EO is the same even for the 1.8engines, not available in SG but in MY the 1.8Sentra)

(do not tell yourself aiya put a little bit more oil better protection etc... yes slightly more may be better protection softer engine but defeats the purpose of this test... 2.7liters will be at the F mark dont worry...)

*use exactly the same engine oil brand type vocosity, dont change plugs or air filter, dont change your driving style, load or watever... just be the same driver as if you didnt change your oil... i bet you will see yourself getting more km for your full tank...

 

cause when i used c-- ---e and VX for my previous couple of oil changes (all measured by myself), i had better FC then when i change to Redline ester based (mech poured in when i was not looking)... all are 5W/40... not logical so i drained the redline until my oil left was at the F mark when cold. drove it just now and i can feel immediately the car revs faster and more eager to go... based on my butt dyno...

 

so my conclusion is this... over fill your engine with too much engine oil and your FC will suffer...

other tips for better FC is a clean air filter, tyre pressure about 4psi above recommended, change or remove(illegal)your cat if its more than 5yrs old cause it should be dead by then n stop working anyways...

 

 

[Phluvcat]

Hi All...

 

i'm not a car expert mech watever... just have many experiences experimenting with my cars...

 

for all the Sunny N16 owners who have good FC... congrats lucky you... for all those who have been having terrible FC... forget all the bullsh1t gadgets to save fuel... forget able driving so bloody light footed make driving damn sian... we all know higher tyre pressures, lighter loads (boot and passengers), lighter foot, more highway driving, clean air filter, free flowing exhaust, less useage of aircon... etc will give you better FC...

 

first i want you all to know that my N16 is a manual, i drive heavy footed very often... i use 205/16/55... and i get 400km minimum with every full tank (till light comes out)... (sometimes almost 500km up if i continue driving after the light comes on) tats if i really drive as light footed as i can... do note that i pump petrol until there is no flowback(i do not shake the car it looks ridiculous)... and after light comes on its safe to drive another 30km up or more (i have tried to approx 50km more at most so far...)

 

if you have tried so many ways to better your sunny FC but fail even after spending so much money on ridiculous gadgets or even those bloody expensive magnets... STOP WASTING $$$... let me share with you this now...

 

logic...

 

*we all know that those who use a 5W/20 or 5W/30... will get better FC compared to those using a 5W/40 or 5W/50...

*i asked around and most agree that a 5W/20-30 will give you up to 50km per full tank more than 5W/40-50...

 

trust me unless your mech used a measuring bottle for your Sunny's EO, i'll bet my money there is too much Engine oil in your car... in the morning after you have parked your car overnite, measure your Engine oil with your dip stick.. take out wipe clean and push back in and check... if the oil if way above the F mark, which i believe it will be, go get an oil change immediately when you can... get a accurate measuring bottle, not just any EO bottle with side markings...

 

if you didnt change your oil filter cause still very new, drain all your old oil and measure 2.5liters of EO and fill ur engine...

if you change your oil filter, drain old oil, measure 2.7liters of EO and fill the Engine... (this amt of EO is the same even for the 1.8engines, not available in SG but in MY the 1.8Sentra)

(do not tell yourself aiya put a little bit more oil better protection etc... yes slightly more may be better protection softer engine but defeats the purpose of this test... 2.7liters will be at the F mark dont worry...)

*use exactly the same engine oil brand type vocosity, dont change plugs or air filter, dont change your driving style, load or watever... just be the same driver as if you didnt change your oil... i bet you will see yourself getting more km for your full tank...

 

cause when i used c-- ---e and VX for my previous couple of oil changes (all measured by myself), i had better FC then when i change to Redline ester based (mech poured in when i was not looking)... all are 5W/40... not logical so i drained the redline until my oil left was at the F mark when cold. drove it just now and i can feel immediately the car revs faster and more eager to go... based on my butt dyno...

 

so my conclusion is this... over fill your engine with too much engine oil and your FC will suffer...

other tips for better FC is a clean air filter, tyre pressure about 4psi above recommended, change or remove(illegal)your cat if its more than 5yrs old cause it should be dead by then n stop working anyways...

 

Yo

 

I guess if it is true, it should at least apply to generally other manual cars? Me drive Honda.

 

any reason why overfilled engine fc will suffer? I am curious to know. sometime in the morning when i wipe my car, will check the level and yes, way above the second dot. i using fk massimo trimax 5w40 cos mechanic recommended and will be 10000km change. 14 yr old car ler...any advise on this?

 

every now and then will take out the filter and flush it before hot blow with hair dryer...got one time forgot to put back filter and drive, come back home see my filter on the desk....#$^#$*%@

 

my fc dropped from almost 14km/l to current about 12.5 after change tyre...same 185/50/15, same brand Federal but from SS535 to 595EVO, but I guess nothing much I can do since new tyres more grippy ya?

[Phluvcat]

so my conclusion is this... over fill your engine with too much engine oil and your FC will suffer...

other tips for better FC is a clean air filter, tyre pressure about 4psi above recommended, change or remove(illegal)your cat if its more than 5yrs old cause it should be dead by then n stop working anyways...

 

4psi is about 27kPa tio boh?

 

my right door recommend 220/210 front and rear (i think so), I currently pump 235 for all tyres leh.

 

although if based on 27kPa is still well within tyre pressure recommendation (400) but I still confused, should follow the car manufacturer recommendation right? and at most about 10% extra if you wanna go for more economy in fc. for my previous tyres, even if based on 235 (max is 250 niah), the wear pattern is still on the external thread, centre thread swee swee after 2 years.

 

dunno if its due to my driving pattern or 10% above car manufacturer recommendation but still consider as underflate based on tyre? somemore the right door recommendation is based on stock tyre size and mine is not stock.

 

I am confused.

[Ken4555]

Yo

 

I guess if it is true, it should at least apply to generally other manual cars? Me drive Honda.

 

any reason why overfilled engine fc will suffer? I am curious to know. sometime in the morning when i wipe my car, will check the level and yes, way above the second dot. i using fk massimo trimax 5w40 cos mechanic recommended and will be 10000km change. 14 yr old car ler...any advise on this?

 

every now and then will take out the filter and flush it before hot blow with hair dryer...got one time forgot to put back filter and drive, come back home see my filter on the desk....#$^#$*%@

 

my fc dropped from almost 14km/l to current about 12.5 after change tyre...same 185/50/15, same brand Federal but from SS535 to 595EVO, but I guess nothing much I can do since new tyres more grippy ya?

 

for tyres, my logic is that higher performance tyres got more rolling resistance so FC will will poorer...

 

for more engine oil, its higher oil pressure, so engine got more resistance mah... but for old school vtec i remember it oil pressure too low the vtec cant open... but if too high i dont know... i guess 5W/40 for you is ok but if i have such an old car i will use 5W/50 or 10W/50 or 15W/50.... poorer FC i guess but engine will be quieter...

 

no air filter is not necessarily better cause the air no pressure to built... like drinking from a straw too big feel...

[Ken4555]

4psi is about 27kPa tio boh?

 

my right door recommend 220/210 front and rear (i think so), I currently pump 235 for all tyres leh.

 

although if based on 27kPa is still well within tyre pressure recommendation (400) but I still confused, should follow the car manufacturer recommendation right? and at most about 10% extra if you wanna go for more economy in fc. for my previous tyres, even if based on 235 (max is 250 niah), the wear pattern is still on the external thread, centre thread swee swee after 2 years.

 

dunno if its due to my driving pattern or 10% above car manufacturer recommendation but still consider as underflate based on tyre? somemore the right door recommendation is based on stock tyre size and mine is not stock.

 

I am confused.

 

if your tyre is not stock size then no point following... depending on the design of the tyre it can take different highest pressure when hot.... i use 205/16/55 and i pump 37psi front 35-36psi back.... and i like it... grip will be better if slightly softer but wear faster lah... :-)

[Thedream]

for tyres, my logic is that higher performance tyres got more rolling resistance so FC will will poorer...

 

I don't think so. I guess you're thinking about grip, but grip also means it's easier to move the car...

[Ken4555]

I don't think so. I guess you're thinking about grip, but grip also means it's easier to move the car...

 

???....

 

well i would think comfort based tyres would hv less rolling resistance... so better FC....

 

high performance tyres would be stickier... hence not as good FC...

 

watever size it might be...

 

dont think i wrong bah... but i've never used comfort tyres be4...

[Thedream]

???....

 

well i would think comfort based tyres would hv less rolling resistance... so better FC....

 

high performance tyres would be stickier... hence not as good FC...

 

watever size it might be...

 

dont think i wrong bah... but i've never used comfort tyres be4...

 

not sure you got my point. It's like wearing good shoes versus slippery shoes to run. You should go further distances on shoes with good grip.

[Crazecow]

for tyres, my logic is that higher performance tyres got more rolling resistance so FC will will poorer...

 

for more engine oil, its higher oil pressure, so engine got more resistance mah... but for old school vtec i remember it oil pressure too low the vtec cant open... but if too high i dont know... i guess 5W/40 for you is ok but if i have such an old car i will use 5W/50 or 10W/50 or 15W/50.... poorer FC i guess but engine will be quieter...

 

no air filter is not necessarily better cause the air no pressure to built... like drinking from a straw too big feel...

 

Not necessary that higher performance tyres means rolling resistance is higher. It very much depends on the design of the tyres.

[Ken4555]

not sure you got my point. It's like wearing good shoes versus slippery shoes to run. You should go further distances on shoes with good grip.

 

hahaha... bro this is a car with wheel and they roll... shoes are contact on the ground then lifted... different lah... a car is in contact all of the time...

[Ken4555]

Not necessary that higher performance tyres means rolling resistance is higher. It very much depends on the design of the tyres.

 

ok...

[Haziqko]

Hi All...

 

i'm not a car expert mech watever... just have many experiences experimenting with my cars...

 

for all the Sunny N16 owners who have good FC... congrats lucky you... for all those who have been having terrible FC... forget all the bullsh1t gadgets to save fuel... forget able driving so bloody light footed make driving damn sian... we all know higher tyre pressures, lighter loads (boot and passengers), lighter foot, more highway driving, clean air filter, free flowing exhaust, less useage of aircon... etc will give you better FC...

 

first i want you all to know that my N16 is a manual, i drive heavy footed very often... i use 205/16/55... and i get 400km minimum with every full tank (till light comes out)... (sometimes almost 500km up if i continue driving after the light comes on) tats if i really drive as light footed as i can... do note that i pump petrol until there is no flowback(i do not shake the car it looks ridiculous)... and after light comes on its safe to drive another 30km up or more (i have tried to approx 50km more at most so far...)

 

if you have tried so many ways to better your sunny FC but fail even after spending so much money on ridiculous gadgets or even those bloody expensive magnets... STOP WASTING $$$... let me share with you this now...

 

 

logic...

 

*we all know that those who use a 5W/20 or 5W/30... will get better FC compared to those using a 5W/40 or 5W/50...

*i asked around and most agree that a 5W/20-30 will give you up to 50km per full tank more than 5W/40-50...

 

trust me unless your mech used a measuring bottle for your Sunny's EO, i'll bet my money there is too much Engine oil in your car... in the morning after you have parked your car overnite, measure your Engine oil with your dip stick.. take out wipe clean and push back in and check... if the oil if way above the F mark, which i believe it will be, go get an oil change immediately when you can... get a accurate measuring bottle, not just any EO bottle with side markings...

 

if you didnt change your oil filter cause still very new, drain all your old oil and measure 2.5liters of EO and fill ur engine...

if you change your oil filter, drain old oil, measure 2.7liters of EO and fill the Engine... (this amt of EO is the same even for the 1.8engines, not available in SG but in MY the 1.8Sentra)

(do not tell yourself aiya put a little bit more oil better protection etc... yes slightly more may be better protection softer engine but defeats the purpose of this test... 2.7liters will be at the F mark dont worry...)

*use exactly the same engine oil brand type vocosity, dont change plugs or air filter, dont change your driving style, load or watever... just be the same driver as if you didnt change your oil... i bet you will see yourself getting more km for your full tank...

 

cause when i used c-- ---e and VX for my previous couple of oil changes (all measured by myself), i had better FC then when i change to Redline ester based (mech poured in when i was not looking)... all are 5W/40... not logical so i drained the redline until my oil left was at the F mark when cold. drove it just now and i can feel immediately the car revs faster and more eager to go... based on my butt dyno...

 

so my conclusion is this... over fill your engine with too much engine oil and your FC will suffer...

other tips for better FC is a clean air filter, tyre pressure about 4psi above recommended, change or remove(illegal)your cat if its more than 5yrs old cause it should be dead by then n stop working anyways...

 

 

ok so basically, what you are trying to tell is... fill up new EO below the F mark rite(you also have given the best measured amount to fill up)...? But insn't it the practice whereby we just fill up between L and f mark...?

Sorry just asking, before these(you come up with the measurements) how much did you fill up(in terms of dip stick measuring before you found out in the morning that its expanded). Because i've always fill up just by looking at the dip stick measurment... exactly halfway between L and F mark.

 

i'm not trying to prove you wrong but i'm curious too. i'm getting sick of changing oils when nothing works better than the other. I've not tried Redline but you seemed happy with it... where can you get this and how much?

 

BTW I DIY my EO and i'm using only original specs replacement tires thus far.

 

 

[Thedream]

hahaha... bro this is a car with wheel and they roll... shoes are contact on the ground then lifted... different lah... a car is in contact all of the time...

 

heh... you do not "henta kaki" when you walk. You actually push you feet backwards so that you move forwards, therefore requiring friction (read "grip") of your shoes. If you were walking on ice, you will not be able to move forwards.

 

For a car, the rotation of the wheels is like when you move your feet backwards. Similarly, better friction will more easily move the car forward, and a car on normal tyres cannot move on ice.

[Crazecow]

Bro, let me tell you how you can really save $$$. EO is just one of them. Using thinner oils will of course help improve FC (not all 40wt oils are the same, some are thicker, some thinner, then difference additives also affect).

 

1. Install a A/F gauge so you know how much to step. I tuned in such a way that when I am light footed, the car runs lean. When heavy foot, runs rich. Then I can see how much I can step before the car goes into the rich zone. Very effective to control your foot.

 

2. Tune up the car to make it more efficient. Many people never realise thise.... Don't need aftermarket ECU, piggyback like unichip will do fine.

 

3. Voltage stabilisers!! They do work but you must know how to use them and where to install them. Eg. Boosting voltage of your coils to produce higher secondary voltage to the spark plugs.

 

4. Increase the spark gap. Purpose of having higher voltage is to allow you to have a bigger gap w/o misfiring. By having a bigger gap, you get better combustion and more power, esp. at low end RPM. Hence, ligther foot. Good for ignition lean mixtures.

 

5. Get your fuel pressure done right. If your fuel pressure is too high or too low, then the injectors will not fire well. The fuel coming out will be like a narrow jet with large fuel droplets and poor dispersion. Bad for FC and power.

 

6. Replace your injectors. Most injectors have single pintle which works well. However, Bosch has come out with new types of injectors with a plate with multiple small holes. This is to have better dispersion of the fuel and form finer droplets. Good stuff.

 

7. CAI. Not about open pod mushroom filters. Insulate your air intake pipes to ensure air is not heated up by the engine. Make sure you have a duct out of the engine bay to suck in cool air. IF possible install a phenolic gasket for your intake manifold so its not absorbing heat from your engine.

 

8. Don't touch your fuel rails. Some people think its good to insulate and cool the fuel. Not the case actually. You need the fuel to evaporate and if its too cold, it won't work.

 

9. Lastly driving pattern. You will see clearly with a A/F gauge installed. you can see how much fuel you actually needs when you accelerate hard va gradual acceleration and maintain speed.

[Ken4555]

ok so basically, what you are trying to tell is... fill up new EO below the F mark rite(you also have given the best measured amount to fill up)...? But insn't it the practice whereby we just fill up between L and f mark...?

Sorry just asking, before these(you come up with the measurements) how much did you fill up(in terms of dip stick measuring before you found out in the morning that its expanded). Because i've always fill up just by looking at the dip stick measurment... exactly halfway between L and F mark.

 

i'm not trying to prove you wrong but i'm curious too. i'm getting sick of changing oils when nothing works better than the other. I've not tried Redline but you seemed happy with it... where can you get this and how much?

 

BTW I DIY my EO and i'm using only original specs replacement tires thus far.

 

filling to the F mark is the practise but most Mechs overfill... i DIY myself and i measure exactly... i have realised i get better FC then when i change at the WS where the Mechs will overfill 95% of the time.. as the N16's engine uses less EO as compared to other 1.6s...

filling oil and looking at the dip stick is one thing... you have to consider after running the engine for a while... then letting the oil settling down..etc... even the manual says 'approx' 2.7liters... best way to measure if overfill is in the morning after your car has been parked the whole nite... if its at the F mark and not over then ok... but chances is that it is... if you did change at a WS....

 

i dont believe you did and should fill the oil to the middle level at 1st pour... causf after you start the engine and oil goes around the engine, sure will be at the L mark or below... actually for me i'm lucky i have the fumoto valve... so after running for a day, i parked over nite... and the next morning i drain bit by bit till the oil level is at F mark when cold... for those without this valve, when pouring in new eo with new filter, the dip stick is never accurate as you will need to know that some (approx200ml) of EO will go into the oil filter once you start the car... thats why Mechs start the cars for a short while and then let the oil drain back to the oil pan before measuring again... BUT yet again not accurate cause not all the oil WILL flow back to the oil pan so fast... you need at least till the engine temp goes down to cold... which i guess is like 2-3hours?....

 

so the safest bet is just pour in 2.7 liters with a new filter (if u r referring to a sunny)..... but if you are already doing that, that dont expect better FC... but if you check your oil IN THE MORNING, and the oil is above the F mark, then most probably will see improvement...

 

also note the size/shape of the oil pan.... slight changes in the level of the dip stick translate to more EO then you think.. ... example if you pour in 50ml to 100ml, you might see NO changes in the dip stick level... get it?

 

as for feeling that the EO is better, go find an ester based EO fully syn... should feel better than regular fully syn... best if u get a ester based group V oil and i am sure you will like it...

 

you can get Redline at a couple of places prices are pretty much standard.. controlled by the distributors... which i believe is MX trading... they got a nice web site to view their products with the prices shown...

 

as for your tyres, 185/65/15 is ugly bro... and not much stability compared to wider tyres... but thats another story... anyways just pump abt 4psi more than recommended on your door... which should be 32psi front and 29psi back... and pump in the morning when tyres are cold... you should not drive more than 5-10mins to your petrol station to pump if not tyres would have warmed up already... then not accurate... not that the station is 100% accurate anyways... and a tip if you hv no queue behind you, pump until the beep comes on... then repeat what you just did... i believe this will be slighty more accurate... then do it weekly as your psi will start to drop in the next couple of days already...

 

i am not an expert but this is what i have experienced and felt.... and am sharing... cheers

Edited November 15, 2010 by Ken4555

[Phluvcat]

Bro, let me tell you how you can really save $$$. EO is just one of them. Using thinner oils will of course help improve FC (not all 40wt oils are the same, some are thicker, some thinner, then difference additives also affect).

 

1. Install a A/F gauge so you know how much to step. I tuned in such a way that when I am light footed, the car runs lean. When heavy foot, runs rich. Then I can see how much I can step before the car goes into the rich zone. Very effective to control your foot.

 

2. Tune up the car to make it more efficient. Many people never realise thise.... Don't need aftermarket ECU, piggyback like unichip will do fine.

 

3. Voltage stabilisers!! They do work but you must know how to use them and where to install them. Eg. Boosting voltage of your coils to produce higher secondary voltage to the spark plugs.

 

4. Increase the spark gap. Purpose of having higher voltage is to allow you to have a bigger gap w/o misfiring. By having a bigger gap, you get better combustion and more power, esp. at low end RPM. Hence, ligther foot. Good for ignition lean mixtures.

 

5. Get your fuel pressure done right. If your fuel pressure is too high or too low, then the injectors will not fire well. The fuel coming out will be like a narrow jet with large fuel droplets and poor dispersion. Bad for FC and power.

 

6. Replace your injectors. Most injectors have single pintle which works well. However, Bosch has come out with new types of injectors with a plate with multiple small holes. This is to have better dispersion of the fuel and form finer droplets. Good stuff.

 

7. CAI. Not about open pod mushroom filters. Insulate your air intake pipes to ensure air is not heated up by the engine. Make sure you have a duct out of the engine bay to suck in cool air. IF possible install a phenolic gasket for your intake manifold so its not absorbing heat from your engine.

 

8. Don't touch your fuel rails. Some people think its good to insulate and cool the fuel. Not the case actually. You need the fuel to evaporate and if its too cold, it won't work.

 

9. Lastly driving pattern. You will see clearly with a A/F gauge installed. you can see how much fuel you actually needs when you accelerate hard va gradual acceleration and maintain speed.

 

very informative indeed. but i need to scratch my head to understand each item.

 

seems like I need to do some insulation to my CAI.

 

I only have a vacuum meter installed, at least it tells me how hard my foot is on the gas and how much the aircon is zapping my engine.

[Ken4555]

very informative indeed. but i need to scratch my head to understand each item.

 

seems like I need to do some insulation to my CAI.

 

I only have a vacuum meter installed, at least it tells me how hard my foot is on the gas and how much the aircon is zapping my engine.

 

trust me, no offense to anyone but CAI is b-------t... if you did mean cold air induction... yes logically cold air is denser than hot air, so combustion will be better.... by how much i dont know... an NA engine will hardly ever get as hot as a turbo charged car...

 

but heat shields??? insulation??? come on have you seen then on any example civic racers in Sepang... or in those Japan races... or watever?....

[Ken4555]

heh... you do not "henta kaki" when you walk. You actually push you feet backwards so that you move forwards, therefore requiring friction (read "grip") of your shoes. If you were walking on ice, you will not be able to move forwards.

 

For a car, the rotation of the wheels is like when you move your feet backwards. Similarly, better friction will more easily move the car forward, and a car on normal tyres cannot move on ice.

 

........... ...

 

bro you are right sia.... though you make sense i still think cannot compare with a car lah...