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A sign the battery is failing?


Matrixx
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I've a 7" DVD player in my car, and it has worked very well so far. One thing I noticed just these 2-3 days when I was driving is that the screen will occasionally slightly dim, then go back to the original brightness.

 

Is this a sign that the car battery is failing? My present car battery has been in used for about 14 months. No problems with starting the car in the morning as well.

Can check the battery overnight voltage drop? Can check the battery cell to cell voltage drop?

If terminal to terminal voltage below 12VDC, you can budget to replace it (may not even start engine).

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2 ways to check the root of problem:-

 

Step 1

- load test your car battery when it's cold engine (Using load tester for test of load sustain-ability) but not when the engine is warm as battery was charged (After engine running was not really accurate at all)

 

Step 2

- start engine & let it idle and dis-connect the Negative ("-") of battery terminal and if the engine die-off immediately, then alternator confirm NOT charging at all & need wireman to check for you.

Edited by Jefkking
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Can check the battery overnight voltage drop? Can check the battery cell to cell voltage drop?

If terminal to terminal voltage below 12VDC, you can budget to replace it (may not even start engine).

hi sir, would it be possible to check via my in-car volt-meter via cigar socket? currently shows 12.2V after coming to 2yrs.

 

batt not MF type; would get same brand same specs for next one sine it worked quite well until now. so far top up one time can last till next 10k km svc.\ (i usu svc 8-9k km).

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Anyone can rec a cheap battery to last another year before the car is scraped?

Presume you are giving away your used battery before your car is scrapped? If so, it helps to provide specs of the battery for members here who may wish to take up your offer.

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Very sorry to offend you by pointing out this obsolete practice.

Step 2

- start engine & let it idle and dis-connect the Negative ("-") of battery terminal and if the engine die-off immediately, then alternator confirm NOT charging at all & need wireman to check for you.

 

Ask any well trained auto electrician and they will tell you that method was used during the good old days of dynamo ( DC generator). As for alternator ( AC to DC generator) this method should be avoid at all costs, by removing the battery lead , you are creating very high resistance and that will cause the alternator to increase the amperage output which will result in the rectifier unit completely destroy.

This action can also cause very high surge which will easily fry any electronic components such as onboard computer modules.

 

PS I hope you are not working as an auto electrician but just one of the DIYers learning from retired wiremen. :D

Edited by Yeobh
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Very sorry to offend you by pointing out this obsolete practice.

Step 2

- start engine & let it idle and dis-connect the Negative ("-") of battery terminal and if the engine die-off immediately, then alternator confirm NOT charging at all & need wireman to check for you.

 

Ask any well trained auto electrician and they will tell you that method was used during the good old days of dynamo ( DC generator). As for alternator ( AC to DC generator) this method should be avoid at all costs, by removing the battery lead , you are creating very high resistance and that will cause the alternator to increase the amperage output which will result in the rectifier unit completely destroy.

This action can also cause very high surge which will easily fry any electronic components such as onboard computer modules.

 

PS I hope you are not working as an auto electrician but just one of the DIYers learning from retired wiremen. :D

Yeah..I wouldn't do that.

The battery acts as a huge buffer for pulsing voltage.

Removing it will subject sensitive electronics to possible damage.

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hi sir, would it be possible to check via my in-car volt-meter via cigar socket? currently shows 12.2V after coming to 2yrs.

 

batt not MF type; would get same brand same specs for next one sine it worked quite well until now. so far top up one time can last till next 10k km svc.\ (i usu svc 8-9k km).

Can not check cell to cell voltage with the lighter socket. Usually with 12DC we can start the engine (unless got some mechanical abnormalies). Bumpy routes/speed humps can require the non-MF to be topped up more frequently. Do not be alarmed if you do so. Some cars servicing are recommended at 20k km interval.

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post-272-1320806193_thumb.jpgBattery indicator plug into cig socket are merely indicators, they don't reflect the actual overall health of the battery and each cell in particular.

The old method of using hydrometer to check each cell sulphric acid specific reading is still widely use especially those dealing in heavy duty batteries used in construction and marine engines.

Edited by Yeobh
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hi sir, would it be possible to check via my in-car volt-meter via cigar socket? currently shows 12.2V after coming to 2yrs.

 

batt not MF type; would get same brand same specs for next one sine it worked quite well until now. so far top up one time can last till next 10k km svc.\ (i usu svc 8-9k km).

12.x V just shows the battery state of charge.

It may not tell you the true health of the battery.

For non MF, I would use hydrometer and also check for cca.

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It's from my experience and i think you old fashion in brain & if you don't have any knowledge and do you know the diff between DC and AC ?? You better shut-up for this case !!

I had tested on ground for my friends and relatives when they suspect similar problem. (Btw, i'm not wireman from any workshop BUT an neutral party of motorists in the road)

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In Reply To Yeobh

That's why i said you don't know better shut-up !

If the alternator work well, it'll still power-up all the electronics gauges of car (s) even the car battery terminal (s) is disconnetced after engine run. (This is the simplest way of testing the car alternator condition)

 

Always remember that our car battery was meant for "STARTING", "LIGHTING" & "IGNITION" purposes (We called it "SLI" in technical terms) and our car battery was act as the "DC Power Source Reservoir" (Also known as "Storage Battery").

 

Unlike AC Power Source that could be found in Hybrid cars such as "LEXUS RX400h", "Honda Insigh" & "Toyota Puris" that run on AC generator when travel of flat ground / roads. Are you clear now ??

Edited by Jefkking
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Maybe his mech got magic eyes.

 

He stare at the battery n can tell if its good or not. [laugh][laugh][laugh]

 

Best is to go to a trusted battery shop n ty check the power left with a multi-meter.

 

I hv those meter I plug into the ciggy socket n it gives me an indication of the state of the battery n alternator charging.

Usually for non-maintenance-free battery, there are 6 capped holes at the top. Remove the caps and crank the engine. If one hole got less bubbles emitted then others, budget to buy replacement battery. Nothing much can help.

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Totally agree to that.

 

Need to remember the start sound, number of cranks when the battery was in good condition.

 

Longer cranks to start is a very clear indicator of weak batteries. If you dont have a load tester.

Can also be starter motor in need of servicing.

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When my car batt went flat about 3 yrs ago, there was no early warning signs. Was driving from Tampines to Bukit Batok tyre shop, no problems. When the tyre mech tried to start, the car cannot even crank at all. At that time, I was very "suspicious" and do not wish to change battery with the tyre shop. Had to pay S$10 for battery starting service, on top of the tyre balance/rotate service. I am not sure, is there any "method" for workshop to "spoil/flatten" the battery instantly ?

If non-MF battery, can remove those caps on top of the battery. crank the engine and look at the bubbles inside the battery. If one cell got less bubbles than others, replacement battery needed.

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When my car batt went flat about 3 yrs ago, there was no early warning signs. Was driving from Tampines to Bukit Batok tyre shop, no problems. When the tyre mech tried to start, the car cannot even crank at all. At that time, I was very "suspicious" and do not wish to change battery with the tyre shop. Had to pay S$10 for battery starting service, on top of the tyre balance/rotate service. I am not sure, is there any "method" for workshop to "spoil/flatten" the battery instantly ?

[confused] You went to tyre shop originally for tire? How did the tyre mechanic end up trying to star your car? Did he tamper witht he battery terminals before trying to start the engine. Loosen battery terminal(s) can cause failure to start the engine.

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