Buying washing machines.

[Djdp]

Anyone tried Kuche?

[Djdp]

Kuche

[Voodooman]

Thomson also not so lasting anymore. Had a made-in-france model that died after 6+ years. First PCB spoil, then later pump.

 

Mine is still working after 6 years and I used it at least 4x a week. Maybe I have lower expectation... for me, a frequently used washing machine lasting more than 5 years is durable, considering it cost me less than 1.5k, IIRC.

 

Last time, a Sanyo cost 3k and last 10 years, now a Sanyo cost 1k and lasts 5 years and it does a better job due to improved technology, so I would say white goods consumers are better off these days.

[Voodooman]

Not only white goods. All electrical appliances e same. All manufacturing outsourced to cheap labour countries but quality is also down.

 

Thomson now changed name to Brandt. My washing machine brandt. Made in europe but agent dun say which country.

 

That alone make me suspcious. Maybe hungary or similar.

 

Ty say just to chk whats wrong i need to pay $70. Excl any repair or parts.

 

I just decided to junk it n buy a new Elba machine. Made in uk. I hope e quality is better.

 

Yeap, I seldom repair my stuff these days, buy new and avoid another problem cropping up. These days, repairman just changes the whole part and another part died soon after as they are all build to expire at about same time.

[Fuelsaver]

White goods are getting cheaper but quality is on down trend. My first 32" LCD TV cost me $3500, now you can get a 40" LED for less than half the price. But it is use and throw, noone repairs these stuff anymore.

 

For washing machine, I vouch for Thomson top loader, soft on fabric and they last at least 5 yrs.

new trend of consumerism; Buy And Throw Away.

[Fuelsaver]

I use to think front loader cleans better. True, gravity cleaning helps to save energy.

But in real world, imo, it's the warm or hot water that kills any energy saving...when you switch on that heater.

The energy saving between front and top loader is probably small amount compared to other problems/advantage/disadvantage.

 

So far, I've used expensive front loader and cheap top loader and found the latter cleans just as well, enough to my satisfaction.

 

And newer design top loader cleans even better. And they are much cheaper than front loader.

If you forget clothes, you can just open the cover and add more, unlike front loader.

 

Nowadays many machines are made regionally in cheaper labour countries, like Malaysia, Thailand and of coz China.

Same as Conti brands are made in the "poorer" Euro countries.

 

As long as you get a branded stuff, it's probably due to the luck of the straw, how long it last, what parts you need.

 

For my FP repair, the charge is min $80, + any parts.

That's about half the price of a brand new top loader.

 

You'll start to think, why the hell shouldn't I just throw it away and replace with new ?

 

If I were to shop for one now, I would look at the price first.

http://www.fortytwo.sg/home-appliance/washers.html

 

When you buy a cheap $400 machine, you can afford to replace it every 10 yrs.

When you buy a $1000 machine, your ROI only begins when it can last 20 yrs, and that's a tall order...provided it doesn't breakdown at all.

thats y i still prefer top loader under / at 400, assuming things don't last as long nowadays.

 

made in euro also no use; now euro gg downhill, sure a lot working class not happy with work, so how to produce quality products? no diff from mic.

 

[Fuelsaver]

To me, equivalent to Rolls Royce and Bentley liao.

not so bad la bro, my samsung vac cleaner = 199, miele = 6xx, dust bags samsung 5 nos = 10+, miele 4 nos. = sub 30

[Count-Bracula]

Bros, top loader or front loader?

 

I need to get a new WM . . CO wants top loader but I insist on front loader.

 

How arhhh? Don't tell me buy one of each!

[Count-Bracula]

Efficiency:

While a top-loading machine requires enough water to cover all the clothes in its drum, a front-loading washer needs only a third of that amount because its drum is set horizontally in the machine. As the drum turns, it uses gravity to drop the clothes back into the water. And while a top-loading machine will empty the soapy water and refill for a rinse agitation cycle, a front-loading machine just sprays clean water on the load as the drum continues to turn, saving gallons. Since there's no agitator in a front-loading machine, there's a lot more room for dirty clothes - and larger loads means fewer loads.

Finally, the front-loading machine's spin mechanism can reach up to 1,000 rpm, as opposed to the standard top-loader's average 650 rpm. That means less water left in the laundry, which in turn gives you a shorter drying time, saving energy there, too.

Space:

Most front-loading washers can be stacked with a companion dryer, an impossible feat for standard top-loaders, except for a mere few models. If floor space is important to you, a front-loading washer is the better choice.

Clothing life:

There's no question that agitators are tough on your clothes. Because only gravity is at work in a front-loading machine, you'll save a lot of wear and tear on your laundry, extending the life of your clothes and linens.

Cost:

In this department, the front-loading washer is at a significant disadvantage. Typically, they cost a minimum of several hundred dollars more than their top-loading counterparts. This initial outlay will be recouped, of course, in energy costs over the long run, but if you can only budget $500 or less for a washer, you'll have to go with the traditional top-loading model.
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Ergonomics:

If bending or kneeling is difficult for you, stay with a top-loading machine. You'll need to kneel or bend to load the clothes as well as remove the wet load from a front-loading washer. When the machines are stacked, the washer goes on the bottom, so there's no relief there, either.

Last-minute lid-flipping:

We've all run back to the washing machine to toss in a just-found pair of socks or T-shirt after the machine has started. But with a front-loading machine, there's no turning back once you push the start button. The door locks until the cycle has ended. There are however, a few models that allow a few seconds to add a garment, but once that light or time has elapsed, your clothing has to wait for the next load.

Detergents:

Although you can use any kind of laundry detergent in a top-loader, your detergent selection may be a bit limited with a front-loading machine, depending on the manufacturer. Most manufacturers of front-loading washers recommend using an HE low-sudsing detergent; these are becoming more widely available all the time.

In the conservation department, the front-loading machine is a clear winner, saving water, energy and, of course, money over the life of the machine. The major detractor for most consumers is the larger initial cash outlay; front-loaders often cost $800 or more compared with around $350 for a good top-loader.

 

[Coltplussport]

Efficiency:

 

While a top-loading machine requires enough water to cover all the clothes in its drum, a front-loading washer needs only a third of that amount because its drum is set horizontally in the machine. As the drum turns, it uses gravity to drop the clothes back into the water. And while a top-loading machine will empty the soapy water and refill for a rinse agitation cycle, a front-loading machine just sprays clean water on the load as the drum continues to turn, saving gallons. Since there's no agitator in a front-loading machine, there's a lot more room for dirty clothes - and larger loads means fewer loads.

 

Finally, the front-loading machine's spin mechanism can reach up to 1,000 rpm, as opposed to the standard top-loader's average 650 rpm. That means less water left in the laundry, which in turn gives you a shorter drying time, saving energy there, too.

Space:

 

Most front-loading washers can be stacked with a companion dryer, an impossible feat for standard top-loaders, except for a mere few models. If floor space is important to you, a front-loading washer is the better choice.

Clothing life:

 

There's no question that agitators are tough on your clothes. Because only gravity is at work in a front-loading machine, you'll save a lot of wear and tear on your laundry, extending the life of your clothes and linens.

Cost:

 

In this department, the front-loading washer is at a significant disadvantage. Typically, they cost a minimum of several hundred dollars more than their top-loading counterparts. This initial outlay will be recouped, of course, in energy costs over the long run, but if you can only budget $500 or less for a washer, you'll have to go with the traditional top-loading model.

<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]-->

Ergonomics:

 

If bending or kneeling is difficult for you, stay with a top-loading machine. You'll need to kneel or bend to load the clothes as well as remove the wet load from a front-loading washer. When the machines are stacked, the washer goes on the bottom, so there's no relief there, either.

Last-minute lid-flipping:

 

We've all run back to the washing machine to toss in a just-found pair of socks or T-shirt after the machine has started. But with a front-loading machine, there's no turning back once you push the start button. The door locks until the cycle has ended. There are however, a few models that allow a few seconds to add a garment, but once that light or time has elapsed, your clothing has to wait for the next load.

Detergents:

 

Although you can use any kind of laundry detergent in a top-loader, your detergent selection may be a bit limited with a front-loading machine, depending on the manufacturer. Most manufacturers of front-loading washers recommend using an HE low-sudsing detergent; these are becoming more widely available all the time.

In the conservation department, the front-loading machine is a clear winner, saving water, energy and, of course, money over the life of the machine. The major detractor for most consumers is the larger initial cash outlay; front-loaders often cost $800 or more compared with around $350 for a good top-loader.

 

If front loader, make sure you have a little stool from ikea so that you can just sit down comfortably to put in or take out laundry.

 

Miele have some cheaper still made in Germany washer and dryer price at $1999 each. Heard the part expensive, so remember to extend warranty. Anyway, Miele I think gave 2 years warranty instead of 1 from many other brand/

[Count-Bracula]

If front loader, make sure you have a little stool from ikea so that you can just sit down comfortably to put in or take out laundry.

 

Miele have some cheaper still made in Germany washer and dryer price at $1999 each. Heard the part expensive, so remember to extend warranty. Anyway, Miele I think gave 2 years warranty instead of 1 from many other brand/

yeah yeah . . that's a good idea.

 

Thanks!

[Qpik]

if u gg with Front, do check whether running on belt or direct drive.

 

My previous Bosch, running on belt. Less than 10yrs kaput.

 

Now I opt for direct drive. Plus not that noisy when doing laundry in the wee hrs of the mrng.

Edited June 12, 2015 by Qpik

[Lala81]

if u gg with Front, do check whether running on belt or direct drive.

 

My previous Bosch, running on belt. Less than 10yrs kaput.

 

Now I opt for direct drive. Plus not that noisy when doing laundry in the wee hrs of the mrng.

 

Samsung or LG?

 

I heard from the salesmen (tiagong) that Bosch will spoil due to mechanical failure or door lock failure. LG/Samsungs spoil from the electronics/PCB.

 

Yeah it does gets a bit noisy after a while. But i'm fine with that.

[Enye]

Bros, top loader or front loader?

 

I need to get a new WM . . CO wants top loader but I insist on front loader.

 

How arhhh? Don't tell me buy one of each!

 

if i were you, i'll get the top loader

 

 

then ask CO to wash the clothes since it was her choice

 

[Volvobrick]

Check the cycle time too, some brands take a long time to wash even on Econ cycle.

 

I always go for full frontal type of machines....

[Lala81]

Check the cycle time too, some brands take a long time to wash even on Econ cycle.

 

I always go for full frontal type of machines....

 

Bosch is 1hr 37mins (cold setting, synthetics). Good enough for me.

Can speed up or slow down depending u want speed/economy mode.

[Qpik]

 

Samsung or LG?

 

I heard from the salesmen (tiagong) that Bosch will spoil due to mechanical failure or door lock failure. LG/Samsungs spoil from the electronics/PCB.

 

Yeah it does gets a bit noisy after a while. But i'm fine with that.

My Bosch bfore the belt kaput, I had the door seal changed cos water leaking. N my neighbour above n below complained my washing machine very noisy. My sister's was using same model as mine. Here's was worse, vibrated until the machine falls off the concrete kerb.

 

Now, I using LG. So, far no issue, coming to 6yrs.

 

 

if i were you, i'll get the top loader

 

 

then ask CO to wash the clothes since it was her choice

 

U so chek ark, wait he don't get sumptuous dinner from CO. Edited June 12, 2015 by Qpik

[Lala81]

My Bosch bfore the belt kaput, I had the door seal changed cos water leaking. N my neighbour above n below complained my washing machine very noisy. My sister's was using same model as mine. Here's was worse, vibrated until the machine falls off the concrete kerb.

 

Now, I using LG. So, far no issue, coming to 6yrs.

 

Lol maybe i get the LG next time.

 

Door seal leak is quite standard for any type of Front load washing machine. Wear and tear.

 

Edited June 12, 2015 by Lala81