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[Need Advice] Drive Shaft/CV jnt Problem With 9 YO Car.


Rogersk8ter
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DS and cv joints are getting clucking loud. But car already less than a year to scrap.

 

What do you advise? No point spending much $$ but worry of safety as well.

 

Any better alternative?

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DS and cv joints are getting clucking loud. But car already less than a year to scrap.

 

What do you advise? No point spending much $$ but worry of safety as well.

 

Any better alternative?

If no more finance, just scrap the car and get another 2nd hand car.. 08 models.. If part replaced also wont heart pain so much.. Still got 3 yrs to enjoy your new parts.

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Just drive till scrap. No biggie, noisy only.

Agreed,the sound only came in during full lock turning,during normal driving no noise...no danger..

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Agreed,the sound only came in during full lock turning,during normal driving no noise...no danger..

 

I think cant. Noisy even going over bumps.

 

Car fully paid. But u think a good idea to scrap now? still have about 11 mth. Am hoping 2nd hand car cheaper next year.

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Supersonic

 

I think cant. Noisy even going over bumps.

 

Car fully paid. But u think a good idea to scrap now? still have about 11 mth. Am hoping 2nd hand car cheaper next year.

 

 

Did u get a quote to get it replaced with a second hand or recond set?

 

If u reckon the cost of a 2nd hand car next year is much cheaper than the cost of the CV joint repair today, then I think u hv ur answer. [;)]

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I think cant. Noisy even going over bumps.

 

Car fully paid. But u think a good idea to scrap now? still have about 11 mth. Am hoping 2nd hand car cheaper next year.

 

Or just go to a workshop ask them to do a cheap non-perm fix. Tell them your situation and ask them if worth or not to fix. No point scrapping now la cars still so ex.

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I think cant. Noisy even going over bumps.

 

Car fully paid. But u think a good idea to scrap now? still have about 11 mth. Am hoping 2nd hand car cheaper next year.

Noisy going over bumps comfirmed NOT Drive shaft/CV joints,it should be suspension parts like ball joints,rubber stopper or tie rod,it is NOT safe if it is suspension parts,send in a workshop,ask for options.. [speechless]

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DS and cv joints are getting clucking loud. But car already less than a year to scrap.

 

What do you advise? No point spending much $$ but worry of safety as well.

 

Any better alternative?

I have exactly the same problem as you

My left outer CV joint boot had torn and encountered clicking sound when turning.

Car left about 1 year+ but I'm planning to scrap it coming May/June period, at the same time, adding one more coe to the quota :)

Hope my CV joint can last till then..

 

Did a bit of research and conclusion is.. if the clicking sound only occurs during turning at higher speed, it should be able to last quite a while but if clicking sound occurs even when traveling straight or it is getting louder.. better not risk it.

 

That being said, pls don't quote me if anything happens :)

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Hi Bros, tks for the replies....

 

Got my problem fixed.

 

Its not the cv problem but the stabiliser link rods.

 

Went in to JB ws and replaced with oem parts.

 

Spent 3 hrs and about s$100.

 

The clucking sounds for almost a year is gone....feels like a new ride again..lol.

 

The mech did honest enuf to tell me its ok to drive till scrap if the noisy not matters to me.

 

cheers.

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Hi Bros, tks for the replies....

 

Got my problem fixed.

 

Its not the cv problem but the stabiliser link rods.

 

Went in to JB ws and replaced with oem parts.

 

Spent 3 hrs and about s$100.

 

The clucking sounds for almost a year is gone....feels like a new ride again..lol.

 

The mech did honest enuf to tell me its ok to drive till scrap if the noisy not matters to me.

 

cheers.

 

I think what ty changed was the 2 rubber bushings for yr front anti-roll bar. A cheap n easy fix. S$100 seems ex for that. Dunno if ty did other stuff?

 

If the CV joint has tok tok tok when turn at full lock then just b more gentle when turning n dun turn the steering wheel if the car is not moving cos this is how most pple spoil their CV joints.

 

If u let the car "creep' slowly when u slowly turn the steering, yr CV joints can last 10 yrs even.

 

I do this n so far I hv never had to change my CV joints for the last 3 cars I drove till 10 yrs n scrap.

 

Also check the rubber boots often. If ty r worn n torn, hv them repleced asap cos otherwise water n sand n dirt wil get inside n wear out the covered joints very fast.

 

There r 2 rubber boots covering the CV joints n 2 more where the 2 front axles enter the gearbox.

 

 

Did u get a quote to get it replaced with a second hand or recond set?

 

If u reckon the cost of a 2nd hand car next year is much cheaper than the cost of the CV joint repair today, then I think u hv ur answer. [;)]

 

 

Never get those re-con CV joints cos its a waste of yr money n time as ty dun last at all.

 

If wan to change, get a new set(Original or OEM). Try for made in Japan if possible. Avoid those Taiwan, China etc cos ty r rubbish n waste yr money.

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My experience -

 

> a year ago, i did a 4-wheel alignment. car still gradually moved to left on reasonably leveled road. if road banks more to left drain, pull almost immediately after release of steering wheel. tried adjusting toe in toe out (< 1/4 turn of tie rod nut, bearing in mind initial position after alignment), but result same.

 

Symptom -

- car veers left even at leveled road

- cool weather, morning n start driving after few hrs parking will encounter crunching sound when turning right only, driving over hump at angle (car body not perpendicular) will have slight squeak

- these few days, steering vibration is slightly more pronounced

 

Why rectify only now -

- car will still move straight if i hold lightly with a hand on steering

- no above noises after some drive (maybe joints warmed up n expanded)

- workshops i visited all this while didn't manage to find this issue, even after i replaced front shocks, shock mounts, stabilizer bar bushing, stabilizer links, steering rack (due to leakage on left side boot) (even komoco attributed issue to subframe bushing - i was like "such biggest bushings also can wear down more than other smaller ones?", thus not convinced)

- didn't mange to find from internet / youtube any info on above issue until recently

- dun wanna spend additional $ since cannot accurately diagnose & car still drives fine

- self diagnose by jacking up car to move wheel in different direction to look for freeplay and centre steering rack but to no avail (by then only suspect either lower arm, ball joint or cv joint but didn't wanna change any)

- last straw was few days ago saw left drive shaft transmission side boot small end with grease on it & some splattered on subframe (i changed this boot only last year). also experiencing more pronounced vibration on steering wheel. these few days also happened to come across "crunching sound", did a search using this term n found an article here - http://gobdp.com/blog/why-is-their-noise-when-turning-my-steering-wheel/ (usually cv joint issue associated with "clicking" when searching for this issue)

 

Conclusion -

went to a drive shaft specialist in sin ming area to get it resolved (i described the situation & test drove w one of mech but no sound since twas a hot afternoon n i drive a while). took out left drive shaft n found wheel side CV joint loosened w lil free play, although grease splatter occurred at the other end but w no further issue. replaced w new CV joint (OEM) and repacked with new grease and boots for both ends of drive shaft for 200. now car drives without veering n steering vibration to "normal" level (similar to new car), but i intend to do another wheel alignment coming Monday to get my front wheels really parallel.

 

Lesson learnt -

- My case was one that was never found in any internet video / website

- CV joint can potentially cause ur ride to veer despite condition of your control arms, ball joints and suspension components r in good working condition, centred steering rack

- seemed like there are more items that could affect car driving straight

- all mech only seem "able" to point wheel alignment, steering rack, stabilizer bush, stablizer link & strut mount as the source of crunching noise (i unsure if they r only interested in changing those common parts)

- for drive shaft / steering rack issue, better go direct to specialist shop instead of using outside workshop (charge another couple hundreds for a "new" drive shaft when all is needed is just CV joints if no hard impact on such shaft)

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- as to y only one side, i suspect previous owner might have hit a kerb harder than usual (not enough to cause serious damage to drive shaft but enough to hurt the bearings a lil, resulting in not-so-detectable issue of veering); there r also mech i spoke to said left side more suffering becos drive shaft is shorter, powered at left side(?) and turns more frequently (u-turn)

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My experience -

 

> a year ago, i did a 4-wheel alignment. car still gradually moved to left on reasonably leveled road. if road banks more to left drain, pull almost immediately after release of steering wheel. tried adjusting toe in toe out (< 1/4 turn of tie rod nut, bearing in mind initial position after alignment), but result same.

 

Symptom -

- car veers left even at leveled road

- cool weather, morning n start driving after few hrs parking will encounter crunching sound when turning right only, driving over hump at angle (car body not perpendicular) will have slight squeak

- these few days, steering vibration is slightly more pronounced

 

Why rectify only now -

- car will still move straight if i hold lightly with a hand on steering

- no above noises after some drive (maybe joints warmed up n expanded)

- workshops i visited all this while didn't manage to find this issue, even after i replaced front shocks, shock mounts, stabilizer bar bushing, stabilizer links, steering rack (due to leakage on left side boot) (even komoco attributed issue to subframe bushing - i was like "such biggest bushings also can wear down more than other smaller ones?", thus not convinced)

- didn't mange to find from internet / youtube any info on above issue until recently

- dun wanna spend additional $ since cannot accurately diagnose & car still drives fine

- self diagnose by jacking up car to move wheel in different direction to look for freeplay and centre steering rack but to no avail (by then only suspect either lower arm, ball joint or cv joint but didn't wanna change any)

- last straw was few days ago saw left drive shaft transmission side boot small end with grease on it & some splattered on subframe (i changed this boot only last year). also experiencing more pronounced vibration on steering wheel. these few days also happened to come across "crunching sound", did a search using this term n found an article here - http://gobdp.com/blog/why-is-their-noise-when-turning-my-steering-wheel/ (usually cv joint issue associated with "clicking" when searching for this issue)

 

Conclusion -

went to a drive shaft specialist in sin ming area to get it resolved (i described the situation & test drove w one of mech but no sound since twas a hot afternoon n i drive a while). took out left drive shaft n found wheel side CV joint loosened w lil free play, although grease splatter occurred at the other end but w no further issue. replaced w new CV joint (OEM) and repacked with new grease and boots for both ends of drive shaft for 200. now car drives without veering n steering vibration to "normal" level (similar to new car), but i intend to do another wheel alignment coming Monday to get my front wheels really parallel.

 

Lesson learnt -

- My case was one that was never found in any internet video / website

- CV joint can potentially cause ur ride to veer despite condition of your control arms, ball joints and suspension components r in good working condition, centred steering rack

- seemed like there are more items that could affect car driving straight

- all mech only seem "able" to point wheel alignment, steering rack, stabilizer bush, stablizer link & strut mount as the source of crunching noise (i unsure if they r only interested in changing those common parts)

- for drive shaft / steering rack issue, better go direct to specialist shop instead of using outside workshop (charge another couple hundreds for a "new" drive shaft when all is needed is just CV joints if no hard impact on such shaft)

Many thanks for sharing bro.

 

Mine is also a kimchi car, trajet which used similar parts as your.

Do encounter the clunck sound in cold, morning start too.. gone when hot.. n have replaced those part that u mention expect the cv joint..

 

So u only change the cv at the left side inner joint only?

The think is my sound seem to be coming more on the right..hmm.

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Many thanks for sharing bro.

 

Mine is also a kimchi car, trajet which used similar parts as your.

Do encounter the clunck sound in cold, morning start too.. gone when hot.. n have replaced those part that u mention expect the cv joint..

 

So u only change the cv at the left side inner joint only?

The think is my sound seem to be coming more on the right..hmm.

If u turn right w sound then it's left n vice versa. I only chg left side outer cv joint. For inner side only changed boot as ws found no issue w inner cv joint. U may wanna monitor for next few weeks since u oredi able to zoom in to the issue.
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If u turn right w sound then it's left n vice versa. I only chg left side outer cv joint. For inner side only changed boot as ws found no issue w inner cv joint. U may wanna monitor for next few weeks since u oredi able to zoom in to the issue.

Thanks for your speedy reply bro!!

 

Noted will monitor n see see...

Btw able to share the ws u when to at sim ming

TIA :-)

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