2014 Corolla Altis - Technical, Features & Use

[ConnorMcLeod]

Better send it in for checks.

 

Take note if there are times where the judder is not there. 

In my experience with the CVT, it "behaves" different when it is not warmed up.

 

ya will bring back at next service and test drive their own car as well.

 

clearly at low speed the shake is not observable.

only at certain speed. need to pay more attention is it speed or RPM.

 

also next few days will check tyre pressure. the ride is more jumpy than I expect but again may be this is normal with the suspension/tyre setup (17" rim).

 

btw cannot tahan every time I forget to fold the side mirrors, then ended up switch on accessories (?) to folder mirror than off again. waste time. will go install the autofold module. 

Edited October 30, 2016 by ConnorMcLeod

[7hm]

U should go to setting and look for event detector. This feature allow the camera to be triggered when there are vibration. It seems that going over the hump always trigger it even if u set it to the lest sensitive.

Turn off the sound no need to disable the event detector

 

Haha, my brand of camera also have this issue at first, too sensitive, registered every big hump as an event. Setting to low sensitivity reduced the rates, now with a newer software version the normal sensitivity is not so prone to detecting humps as an event.

[ConnorMcLeod]

If you look at the rear window, the topmost line is about 3-4 inches from the top edge of the frame. Defog works up to this line (i leave defog on until it auto off). My rear cam is mounted in the area.

 

I wont blame the person who mounted the cam coz more customer would complain having the cam mounted lower in the rear window making it more intrusive.

 

I need to correct my statement above.

 

I see the heater wires all the way up (last time I look in rear view mirror at night so agar agar say 3-4 inches from top edge no wire).

today morning after rain, i defog continuously 3 times from home to office (each time defog until it switches itself off)

and till I reached the office , the top 3-4 inches of glass from top edge is still foggy.

 

Look at the rear cam pic and it is not really clear. at one point there was a porsche behind and I can hardly see it on the unit's LCD.

 

Wonder i) my defogger a top is not working, or ii) need to move rear cam down.

for now I turned the camera to point a big lower but I doubt this is sufficient. may end up watching the boot lid instead.... will test this evening.

[nomodox]

The rear suspension seems soft. Any suggestion?

[7hm]

The rear suspension seems soft. Any suggestion?

 

It's a Corolla... shouldn't expect anything else. If you want firmer suspension you probably need to look for modifications to the suspension.

[Kklee]

The rear suspension seems soft. Any suggestion?

 

Tyres with firmer sidewalls. 

Do take note that the shock absorbers may wear prematurely. 

[ConnorMcLeod]

Better send it in for checks.

 

Take note if there are times where the judder is not there.

In my experience with the CVT, it "behaves" different when it is not warmed up.

After more observations...

 

The shudder is most prominent at about 1000rpm / 40km/hr range. At other rpm seems less shake. Beluw 20km/hr seems less often. Above 60km/hr also seems less often too.

 

Havent gotten time to check tyre pressure. Also wondering if needs to check wheel bslance. It feels like the rear is wobbly but i can be mt imagination too (being too keen to find something to blame ).

[Kklee]

After more observations...

 

The shudder is most prominent at about 1000rpm / 40km/hr range. At other rpm seems less shake. Beluw 20km/hr seems less often. Above 60km/hr also seems less often too.

 

Havent gotten time to check tyre pressure. Also wondering if needs to check wheel bslance. It feels like the rear is wobbly but i can be mt imagination too (being too keen to find something to blame ).

 

It will be good to check tyre pressure first.  Also check if the under carriage got leaking fluid and overfill engine oil. 

When my EO got overfilled,  the engine feel different. 

Edited November 2, 2016 by Kklee

[ConnorMcLeod]

It will be good to check tyre pressure first.  Also check if the under carriage got leaking fluid and overfill engine oil. 

When my EO got overfilled,  the engine feel different. 

 

thanks for the idea. will check EO.

 

is it possible it is dirty throttle?

 

sometimes I feel the engine is running fast/slow than the CVT so when I depress accelerator, the two speed do not match hence shudder... damn I am creative

[Kklee]

thanks for the idea. will check EO.

 

is it possible it is dirty throttle?

 

sometimes I feel the engine is running fast/slow than the CVT so when I depress accelerator, the two speed do not match hence shudder... damn I am creative

 

If you ever, in your driving life, encountered dirty throttle before,  that could be a possibility. 

 

If me,  to eliminate possibilities, I would use a bottle of Caltex Techron Fuel System Cleaner, to hopefully, clean up some carbon from the injector, piston and maybe throttle body. 

 

My mileage is about 25k-30k yearly and from experiences and knowledge gained from my previous car,  preventive maintenance is very necessary for me.

 

Basically, it is 

-  use a good engine oil with cleaning properties

-  change EO every 7k. 

-  use Caltex petrol

-  use Caltex Techron Fuel system Cleaner every 5k 

 

Eh... send for service ! 

[ConnorMcLeod]

It will be good to check tyre pressure first.  Also check if the under carriage got leaking fluid and overfill engine oil. 

When my EO got overfilled,  the engine feel different. 

 

pumped all tyres to 220 as stated on the side panel.

 

the rear left tyre had lower pressure before.

somehow matching with my bum sensor feeling the left rear was more wobbly.

 

drive from petrol station to home (~20km) appeared a bit smoother, still got a mild shudder but not so noticeable as before. more monitoring tomorrow on way to work.

 

anyone knows that RON grade they put in fuel tank at delivery? 91 or 95? i recall the drive from west coast was smooth all the way. then i pumped esso 5000 and then noticed the shudder --- i am NOT blaming the esso 5000 so dont flame me.

Edited November 3, 2016 by ConnorMcLeod

[Ken1898]

U guys pump UL95 or UL98? Which give best mileage..

[ConnorMcLeod]

U guys pump UL95 or UL98? Which give best mileage..

esso 5000. ~14km/l 

 

experimenting with SPC 5000 this week.

 

how's your fc?

Edited November 3, 2016 by ConnorMcLeod

[Kklee]

pumped all tyres to 220 as stated on the side panel.

 

the rear left tyre had lower pressure before.

somehow matching with my bum sensor feeling the left rear was more wobbly.

 

drive from petrol station to home (~20km) appeared a bit smoother, still got a mild shudder but not so noticeable as before. more monitoring tomorrow on way to work.

 

anyone knows that RON grade they put in fuel tank at delivery? 91 or 95? i recall the drive from west coast was smooth all the way. then i pumped esso 5000 and then noticed the shudder --- i am NOT blaming the esso 5000 so dont flame me.

 

Eh....could be Esso 5000 more powerful. 

[ConnorMcLeod]

Eh....could be Esso 5000 more powerful.

What brand n grade you use? Edited November 3, 2016 by ConnorMcLeod

[CrimsonAltis]

about smoothness of drive... I have the following questions.

 

on (busy) expressway, crusing at 60-70km/hr, often I release the accelerator completely to maintain distance from the car in front of me (but no need to use brakes yet). when I _gently_ tap/depress the accelerator afterwards, the gearbox is engaged (I am speaking like this is manual GB, but I know this is CVT) and almost always generates a shudder.

 

Is this normal for CVT to have this shudder, especially at this travelling speed.

It makes the ride more jerky, even my child noticed it and ask why the new car is shaky.

 

I will pay more attention to lower speed if this shudder is also around.

 

For me, I don't have the shudder issue when accelerating from cruising (without accelerating, free running). I would be alarmed if the car shudders, initial guess would be some gear issue of stepping down slowly then sudden going up again.

 

I used to have a knocking sound that comes from my rear right wheel area (the whole car could feel the hollow knock) when i switch lanes towards right side (especially so when on slip roads joining expressway when i need to accelerate to adjust to traffic flow). First few servicing, BM was not able to spot the source of the knocking sound and they told me everything checked out fine. The knock started when i first drove the new car out from West Coast....first right turn...first knock...i didn't think much of it initially.

 

After 8 months now, hitting 20k mileage...i still occasionally get the knocking when i switch lanes right side but used to it already. As long as it's not a safety concern, im willing to close one eye on it. None of my Altis friends have the same issue and yes, some have heard the knocking sound when they are passengers in my ride. Nobody has any solution for it.

 

Back to shudder...could it be the same 'rubberband' effect as experienced by other Altis drivers during accelerating/deccelarting?

[ConnorMcLeod]

After 8 months now, hitting 20k mileage...i still occasionally get the knocking when i switch lanes right side but used to it already. As long as it's not a safety concern, im willing to close one eye on it. None of my Altis friends have the same issue and yes, some have heard the knocking sound when they are passengers in my ride. Nobody has any solution for it.

 

Back to shudder...could it be the same 'rubberband' effect as experienced by other Altis drivers during accelerating/deccelarting?

 

could the knocking due to suspension? it should not be worn at 20k (not even 100k I suppose) but could be manufacturing.

one of my old cars had damaged bushings. it makes 'clack clack' sound when going over speed humps.

 

not much rubberband feel for me so far. but apart from the shudder, I do feel during nearly constant speed sometimes the transmission wants to downshift then quickly upshift again, giving a pull and release feel. but this is rather mild.

Eh....could be Esso 5000 more powerful. 

 

indeed it seems Esso 5000 is more powerful than SPC 5000.

the pick up with E is stronger than S.

But I still managed to get average of nearly 16km/l for the round trip from office-home-office since last night about 45km total. so overall the fc has not shown any reduction . but road condition is a bit better this morning (not rain).

[Kklee]

What brand n grade you use?

 

Caltex 95 for its cleaning properties.

 

This is a continuation from experience with my previous car.

The combination of the car design, driving style and usage pattern i.e. carbon built-up,  there will be issues like dirty throttle body (erratic RPM), clogged injectors (hesitant acceleration) and haywire fuel gauge reading. 

 

While it doesn't totally eliminate the issues (except for the fuel gauge),  it makes it easier for corrective maintenance. 

E.g.  dirty throttle body,  use externally applied 3M Throttle Body Cleaning.  Not need for entire throttle body removal and cleaning. 

E.g.  clogged injectors,  every 5k or just before 10k service use Caltex Techron.

 

P.S.  Previously, only Caltex have cleaning properties.  The formulation (at that time) for Shell and Esso,  just doesn't work on the previous car.  

indeed it seems Esso 5000 is more powerful than SPC 5000.

the pick up with E is stronger than S.

But I still managed to get average of nearly 16km/l for the round trip from office-home-office since last night about 45km total. so overall the fc has not shown any reduction . but road condition is a bit better this morning (not rain).

 

You "night" rider is it ? 

Eh.. I asked because I am trying to understand if maybe your issue is due to the ATF too cold. 

For me, I don't have the shudder issue when accelerating from cruising (without accelerating, free running). I would be alarmed if the car shudders, initial guess would be some gear issue of stepping down slowly then sudden going up again.

 

I used to have a knocking sound that comes from my rear right wheel area (the whole car could feel the hollow knock) when i switch lanes towards right side (especially so when on slip roads joining expressway when i need to accelerate to adjust to traffic flow). First few servicing, BM was not able to spot the source of the knocking sound and they told me everything checked out fine. The knock started when i first drove the new car out from West Coast....first right turn...first knock...i didn't think much of it initially.

 

After 8 months now, hitting 20k mileage...i still occasionally get the knocking when i switch lanes right side but used to it already. As long as it's not a safety concern, im willing to close one eye on it. None of my Altis friends have the same issue and yes, some have heard the knocking sound when they are passengers in my ride. Nobody has any solution for it.

 

Back to shudder...could it be the same 'rubberband' effect as experienced by other Altis drivers during accelerating/deccelarting?

 

You pump tyre pressure high high is it ? 

Edited November 4, 2016 by Kklee