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Honda Civic 2007 Repair/Maintenance


Metalslug2
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My FD2 has served me for 240,000 km mileage. He has not failed not even once in starting the engine. A faithful ride. No regret with FD2

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Mine is a Dec 07 1.8L Civic.

 

Half yearly servicing at KAH from day 1 till now, always using my own oil (SSO, Penzzoil Ultra, Mobil1 EP). Milage as of last pump : 105681km

 

So far,

- Change eng mounting, just 1 piece.... by KAH at 81149km (don't recall the price)

- Skim from disc brake for warpage and vibration issue at 81765km.

- Change all 4 shocks at 93845km. ~$700 (KYB excel-g, MIJ)

 

Others such as brake pads, tyres, iridium sparks, batteries are pretty standard wear & tear parts. Had 2 cases of rear brake light blown but its a small issue.

 

Yearly once or twice go up north to clear carbon (really CLEAR :) )

 

Not once did it fail me when I turn on the engine.

 

Let the thread starter judge.

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Paddle shifters are standard equipment if you opt for the 1.8l and 2l civic AT. Its a great setup seriously. Shifts are quick. Hondas gearbox logic is miles ahead as compared to say toyota or mazda.

 

Yes its double wishbones at all corners. The current CMI FB civic loses this at the front and replaced by cheap to build McPherson structs. The new accord also got downgraded similarly. So what bother with new hondas?

 

I think you need to update your info. Double wishbone front and rear was on previous generation Honda Odyssey. FD's front is Macpherson struts and rear double wishbone setup. Some Porsches have front and rear Macpherson struts setup I wouldn't call them cheap coz there are some that aren't cheap. Very few cars nowadays have both front and rear double wishbone setup. Front are mostly Macpherson struts.

 

If you look throughout Civics history not all of its generations are good models.

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i see. i thought it would be more maintenance. do u guys use it?

 

i abit suaku. double wishbones is good for what huh? i am driving a latio sports, so far it feels great too. I also drove ES8 before.

 

any issue with ignition coils as latio did have such issues

 

wow GB problem? how much is your mileage?

 

The paddle shifts are only good for track use. The FD throttle response is good enough for road usage that you do not need to use the paddle shifts.

 

Double wishbone setup are so called independent wheel suspension. As the phrase suggests the rear wheels move up & down independently which offers flexibiility and stability when the car go around corners.

 

I believe the Latio is rear torsion beam setup whereby the suspension arms of the rear wheels are link via a metal beam. It's a more rigid and less flexible setup compared to the double wishbone setup. It's also less complicated and cost less to build.

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Neutral Newbie

Hi bros, need some advice from you guys, am driving a year07 civic. Recently encountered a problem of screeching sound coming out from my sport rim infront (driver side) whenever I pass by those road which has sands / mini stones. The screeching sound is horrible. Please advice if anyone of you know what's going on. I encountered this 3 times already. 😪

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Mine is a Dec 07 1.8L Civic.

 

Half yearly servicing at KAH from day 1 till now, always using my own oil (SSO, Penzzoil Ultra, Mobil1 EP). Milage as of last pump : 105681km

 

So far,

- Change eng mounting, just 1 piece.... by KAH at 81149km (don't recall the price)

- Skim from disc brake for warpage and vibration issue at 81765km.

- Change all 4 shocks at 93845km. ~$700 (KYB excel-g, MIJ)

 

Others such as brake pads, tyres, iridium sparks, batteries are pretty standard wear & tear parts. Had 2 cases of rear brake light blown but its a small issue.

 

Yearly once or twice go up north to clear carbon (really CLEAR :) )

 

Not once did it fail me when I turn on the engine.

 

Let the thread starter judge.

pretty good maintenance works done. but 100k u would have done your water pump, belting changes too i guess?

 

wow 4 shocks changed at 93k... so thats another damage.

 

i will probably go in jb 1 time to change all. currently civics are 30+k for 2007 models

BTW i noticed the hybrid is cheaper.

 

I would guess e hybrid not recommended? not many people go for it, and i scared of the maintenance where km doesnt warranty e battery any more

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pretty good maintenance works done. but 100k u would have done your water pump, belting changes too i guess?

 

wow 4 shocks changed at 93k... so thats another damage.

 

i will probably go in jb 1 time to change all. currently civics are 30+k for 2007 models

BTW i noticed the hybrid is cheaper.

 

I would guess e hybrid not recommended? not many people go for it, and i scared of the maintenance where km doesnt warranty e battery any more

 

Be careful with the FD hybrid. The batt tends to die quickly and a 2007-2009 hybrid.... unless the seller can show u proof that the batt was replaced recently (it has to be from KM, no workshops outside dares to touch it), you will be wise to avoid the hybrid...

 

I read that the replacement batt costs ard $7000 to $8000.... Honda used Sanyo and then subsequently Panasonic Ni-MH batt back then. Prob tech back then wasn't as adv as today... Hence durable tends to be a big question mark.

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The paddle shifts are only good for track use. The FD throttle response is good enough for road usage that you do not need to use the paddle shifts.

 

Double wishbone setup are so called independent wheel suspension. As the phrase suggests the rear wheels move up & down independently which offers flexibiility and stability when the car go around corners.

 

I believe the Latio is rear torsion beam setup whereby the suspension arms of the rear wheels are link via a metal beam. It's a more rigid and less flexible setup compared to the double wishbone setup. It's also less complicated and cost less to build.

 

No la, it is useful in SG too. Yes Honda's AT shift logic is one of the best in the market, even by today's standards where 6-8ATs are common place. And twin clutches transmission as well. Shifts are quick and response is near immediate. Shift comfort may typically lose out to say Toyota 6AT under full throttle, but for everyday driving, its perfectly acceptable.

 

The paddle shifters will be usable if u are going down steep slopes eg those found in long winding multi story carparks. You need the shifters to shift down to 1or 2nd gear for engine brake ya. For me, it is a godsend if u want to tackle a turn quickly, you downshift with the paddles to say 3rd gear before you enter the turn, tap on the brakes if required, and then maint throttle for the WHOLE turn duration.

 

The feeling of being able to exe a nice high speed turn without embarrassing yourself or crash always put a smile on my face haha... I test drove the current Wish 1.8 from BM some weeks ago... No paddle shifters, just 7 fake 'ratios' programmed into the gearbox... I tried to do a much slower speed 'spirited' turn during the test drive. Sigh... I was trying to grab the dash mounted shifter and shift it into M, and Toyota placed the + - indents upside down as compared to other brands... in the end, I felt like there was so many things to do for that few secs and the CVT wasn't responding the way I want it to. In the end... give up... LOL

 

Double wishbones suspensions offers better road holding capability as it can respond to the roads surfaces much more quickly than other types of suspension setup. Macpherson struts are independent suspension too. But they are simpler in design hence they are typically cheaper to build at the factory...

 

Torsion beams are NOT true independent suspension. Both axles are connected via a beam (hence the name) and severe upset to one wheel will upset the other wheel as well.

 

Torsion beams is the most simple setup of all, and its widely used in many econo cars. Toyota is a big fan of rear torsion beams, so does Hyundai and Kia. Main reason, cut cost lor.

 

A big downside of wishbone setup... it takes up a lot of cabin space which result in reduced boot space volume. Also, unless the manufacturer is willing to invest in expensive high tech light weight forged steel or titanium alloys, wishbones setup can be heavy due to extra hardware. An increased unsprung weight is always not good for fuel economy.

 

You may wish to read more here. Warning it gets very technical as you read on. But its a good read if you can understand the text.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-suspension.htm

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Be careful with the FD hybrid. The batt tends to die quickly and a 2007-2009 hybrid.... unless the seller can show u proof that the batt was replaced recently (it has to be from KM, no workshops outside dares to touch it), you will be wise to avoid the hybrid...

 

I read that the replacement batt costs ard $7000 to $8000.... Honda used Sanyo and then subsequently Panasonic Ni-MH batt back then. Prob tech back then wasn't as adv as today... Hence durable tends to be a big question mark.

Yes no wonder the hybrids are much cheaper.

 

the depr of a civic is 12-14k per yr from sgcarmart. will be scouting around these few mths haha

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Changed my engine mounting at 69k and ts might wanna look out for the above mentioned by the others in this thread. Otherwise, the FD is quite a good ride. My fc hover around 10.8-11.3 km/l. Oh, and you should argue hard for a better price because Honda cars are always so marked up by dealers.

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Yes no wonder the hybrids are much cheaper.

 

the depr of a civic is 12-14k per yr from sgcarmart. will be scouting around these few mths haha

 

The used car dealers are cutting big carrots off your heads bro. 12-14k dep is more than a brand new say, Kia Forte SX or even the new Sonata or Kia Optima. C&C is pushing the Forte hard and the top spec SX model dep is ard $9000+/yr only. I have the figures with me here. Kia SE has worked out all the sums for me.

 

For 2008-2009 Civics FD1 or FD2, dep should be even lower since COEs at that time was <$10k on average for Cat B. My CIvic COE was at $13k only and my Civic dep is around $9000/yr too. Same as a new typical b&b sedan.

 

Do you sums carefully bro

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Changed my engine mounting at 69k and ts might wanna look out for the above mentioned by the others in this thread. Otherwise, the FD is quite a good ride. My fc hover around 10.8-11.3 km/l. Oh, and you should argue hard for a better price because Honda cars are always so marked up by dealers.

 

Yes engine mountings life span is there about. I delay the replacement till near 80000km due to empty wallets [bigcry][shakehead] Until I cant take the vibration and increase cabin noise anymore.

 

Hondas are very reliable seriously bro. What I've mentioned above are mostly wear and tear items. Things eg shocks are considered wear n tear parts la. You will encounter worn shocks no matter which brand you buy. At least there's no danger of worn driveshafts... unlike my ex Altis 1.8... where the drive shafts were replaced at just 20000+km

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Neutral Newbie

Hi bros, need some advice from you guys, am driving a year07 civic. Recently encountered a problem of screeching sound coming out from my sport rim infront (driver side) whenever I pass by those road which has sands / mini stones. The screeching sound is horrible. Please advice if anyone of you know what's going on. I encountered this 3 times already. 😪

Bro, I had similar experience few weeks ago. It was due to a wheel alignment (also driver's side). Sent my Honda Civic to "sim huat tyre" at blk 16 sin Ming Ind est. #01-89 . Cost $50/- . The uncle is very experience, he just looked at the wheel , straight away he knew what's the cause.

 

Hope it helps.

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Neutral Newbie

Bro, I had similar experience few weeks ago. It was due to a wheel alignment (also driver's side). Sent my Honda Civic to "sim huat tyre" at blk 16 sin Ming Ind est. #01-89 . Cost $50/- . The uncle is very experience, he just looked at the wheel , straight away he knew what's the cause.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Thanks bro!

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The used car dealers are cutting big carrots off your heads bro. 12-14k dep is more than a brand new say, Kia Forte SX or even the new Sonata or Kia Optima. C&C is pushing the Forte hard and the top spec SX model dep is ard $9000+/yr only. I have the figures with me here. Kia SE has worked out all the sums for me.

 

For 2008-2009 Civics FD1 or FD2, dep should be even lower since COEs at that time was <$10k on average for Cat B. My CIvic COE was at $13k only and my Civic dep is around $9000/yr too. Same as a new typical b&b sedan.

 

Do you sums carefully bro

 

yeah manz. i wonder how negotiable is that. theres a bunch of used cars out there which are not even moving.. basially i need them to shave off 6k from asking price...

 

Yes engine mountings life span is there about. I delay the replacement till near 80000km due to empty wallets [bigcry][shakehead] Until I cant take the vibration and increase cabin noise anymore.

 

Hondas are very reliable seriously bro. What I've mentioned above are mostly wear and tear items. Things eg shocks are considered wear n tear parts la. You will encounter worn shocks no matter which brand you buy. At least there's no danger of worn driveshafts... unlike my ex Altis 1.8... where the drive shafts were replaced at just 20000+km

yeah hondas in sg always premium priced.

 

funny engine mountings and shocks have that kind of wear and tear. so far my latio driven 120k still ok... touch wood

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pretty good maintenance works done. but 100k u would have done your water pump, belting changes too i guess?

 

wow 4 shocks changed at 93k... so thats another damage.

 

i will probably go in jb 1 time to change all. currently civics are 30+k for 2007 models

BTW i noticed the hybrid is cheaper.

 

I would guess e hybrid not recommended? not many people go for it, and i scared of the maintenance where km doesnt warranty e battery any more

 

Thanks. Nope. No water pump etc etc changes...... and this version of Civic has no timing belt. I generally follow the servicing checklist advice by KAH.

 

Confirmed as I keep track of all servicing work on this car in an exel file since day 1. This car is pretty reliable.

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Thanks. Nope. No water pump etc etc changes...... and this version of Civic has no timing belt.

 

Confirmed as I keep track of all maintenence work on this car in an exel file since day 1. This car is pretty reliable.

surprised! i nvr had a car no timing belt and water pump no need to change at 100k. really? haha.. i always budget 600-800 for this.

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surprised! i nvr had a car no timing belt and water pump no need to change at 100k. really? haha.. i always budget 600-800 for this.

 

I thought so too..... until the KAH servicing advisor told me. He couldn't be wrong!

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