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Honda Civic 2007 Repair/Maintenance


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hi just bought an FD4 manual recently, millage had clock122K and item I replaced are clutch, Honda MTF3, all mountings, clean TB, change engine oil(Shell Helix) and plug and fuel filter. Lately discover some funny problem for my ride, car feel sluggish and have that pulling back effect as in when coming to filter lane check clear traffic and accelerate, the car will suddenly pull back and then cheong forward with the accelerator still depress. During normal pick-up at traffic light junction when pedal depress the car like not picking up speed (speedo jump very slow) and at times will have the pulling back and cheong effect too. Any FD manual owner encounter such problem before? What are the possible causes? Fuel pump? Ignition coil?

 

engine brake at work? i find that the effect is very strong at first and second gear in an FD. good control of the clutch and accelerator pedals during the upshifting and downshifting of the manual transmission is very important for a smooth ride.

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Me using 0w-20 oil since day one, and that was 7 yrs ago.

 

I have tried Mobil 1 0W-20, Amsoil 0W-20 and Penzzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20. Penzzoil offers the best cleaning properties and it allows the engine to run the smoothest and the most quiet.

 

Mobil1 abit overrated IMHO. Mobil 1 oil tends to make the engine runs abit rough.

 

I've said it before and I will say it again, to those heresay that 20wt oil is too thin for our climate, please read your owner's manual again before making such baseless comments

 

I've rev to 5000rpm during overtaking (and ahem... ) in SG and the engine still works like new. They said 20wt oil can't handle heavy engine load, I've trekked to Genting and Cameron Highlands with 5 adults on board and my Civic still runs. They said 20wt oil will disintegrate in high heat. I've got stuck at the customs for more than 3 hrs in a row and there's no overheating at all. In fact, I was the one who overheated LOL [furious][:p]

 

In fact, 7 yrs later, my R18A engine still runs WITHOUT consuming a single drop of oil. Why do I know that? becos I made it a point to check my engine oil level like one day before my reg svcs. And the level is still at full mark.

 

i don't have the local owner's manual, but i understand all US versions of FD(except SI model) calls for a 5w20 engine oil. It should not be a problem to use a w20 or w30 engine oil in our part of the world. a less viscous fluid like a w20 or w30 oil has better flow rate and heat transfer than a w40 oil.

 

you may want to try Red Line 5w20.

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Neutral Newbie

hi just bought an FD4 manual recently, millage had clock122K and item I replaced are clutch, Honda MTF3, all mountings, clean TB, change engine oil(Shell Helix) and plug and fuel filter. Lately discover some funny problem for my ride, car feel sluggish and have that pulling back effect as in when coming to filter lane check clear traffic and accelerate, the car will suddenly pull back and then cheong forward with the accelerator still depress. During normal pick-up at traffic light junction when pedal depress the car like not picking up speed (speedo jump very slow) and at times will have the pulling back and cheong effect too. Any FD manual owner encounter such problem before? What are the possible causes? Fuel pump? Ignition coil?

I presume you have changed or cleaned your air filter as well? How about your spark plugs? You can also check for vacuum leaks. Put your ear at the engine bay and hear for any hissing or air sucking sound.

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I presume you have changed or cleaned your air filter as well? How about your spark plugs? You can also check for vacuum leaks. Put your ear at the engine bay and hear for any hissing or air sucking sound.

 

Since this is a used FD, please do a full engine clean and service.

 

- Replace the spark plugs, FD engines runs on Iridium plugs only. NO OLD STYLE COPPER PLUGS!... Use Denso Iridium Power IK20L for both 1.6, 1.8 and 2L No other heat range acceptable.

 

- Clean the Air Mass Sensor. Can DIY, but be careful for the sensor is really fragile. Let the workshop do it if you have no confidence.

 

- Go to http://www.autosaver.com.sg/ and ask for the Nitro intake manifold cleaning service. It uses pure hydrogen to clean from the air Mass sensor onwards to the cyln head. It will clear all carbon and silicon dirt that has accumulated in the intake over the yrs. Its particularly effective in cleaning the throttle body.  

 

- Do an engine flush when u change oil, and please fill it up with top quality 20wt oil.

 

- Since your FD4 is a 5MT, do replace the MT fluid as well. MT is super tough and durable, but it needs fresh fluid to work well too.

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Me using 0w-20 oil since day one, and that was 7 yrs ago.

 

I have tried Mobil 1 0W-20, Amsoil 0W-20 and Penzzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20. Penzzoil offers the best cleaning properties and it allows the engine to run the smoothest and the most quiet.

 

Mobil1 abit overrated IMHO. Mobil 1 oil tends to make the engine runs abit rough.

 

I've said it before and I will say it again, to those heresay that 20wt oil is too thin for our climate, please read your owner's manual again before making such baseless comments

 

I've rev to 5000rpm during overtaking (and ahem... ) in SG and the engine still works like new. They said 20wt oil can't handle heavy engine load, I've trekked to Genting and Cameron Highlands with 5 adults on board and my Civic still runs. They said 20wt oil will disintegrate in high heat. I've got stuck at the customs for more than 3 hrs in a row and there's no overheating at all. In fact, I was the one who overheated LOL [furious]  [:p]

 

In fact, 7 yrs later, my R18A engine still runs WITHOUT consuming a single drop of oil. Why do I know that? becos I made it a point to check my engine oil level like one day before my reg svcs. And the level is still at full mark.

Yup lots of ignorant mechanics who think they know better than the engine designers themselves. No facts to back anything up other than their butt feel. If the butt can feel if the engine oil good or not. Then there is no longer any need for science in this world. Everything go by agaration and butt feel.

Me using 0w-20 oil since day one, and that was 7 yrs ago.

 

I have tried Mobil 1 0W-20, Amsoil 0W-20 and Penzzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20. Penzzoil offers the best cleaning properties and it allows the engine to run the smoothest and the most quiet.

 

Mobil1 abit overrated IMHO. Mobil 1 oil tends to make the engine runs abit rough.

 

I've said it before and I will say it again, to those heresay that 20wt oil is too thin for our climate, please read your owner's manual again before making such baseless comments

 

I've rev to 5000rpm during overtaking (and ahem... ) in SG and the engine still works like new. They said 20wt oil can't handle heavy engine load, I've trekked to Genting and Cameron Highlands with 5 adults on board and my Civic still runs. They said 20wt oil will disintegrate in high heat. I've got stuck at the customs for more than 3 hrs in a row and there's no overheating at all. In fact, I was the one who overheated LOL [furious]  [:p]

 

In fact, 7 yrs later, my R18A engine still runs WITHOUT consuming a single drop of oil. Why do I know that? becos I made it a point to check my engine oil level like one day before my reg svcs. And the level is still at full mark.

Yup lots of ignorant mechanics who think they know better than the engine designers themselves. No facts to back anything up other than their butt feel. If the butt can feel if the engine oil good or not. Then there is no longer any need for science in this world. Everything go by agaration and butt feel.

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Since this is a used FD, please do a full engine clean and service.

 

- Replace the spark plugs, FD engines runs on Iridium plugs only. NO OLD STYLE COPPER PLUGS!... Use Denso Iridium Power IK20L for both 1.6, 1.8 and 2L No other heat range acceptable.

 

- Clean the Air Mass Sensor. Can DIY, but be careful for the sensor is really fragile. Let the workshop do it if you have no confidence.

 

- Go to http://www.autosaver.com.sg/ and ask for the Nitro intake manifold cleaning service. It uses pure hydrogen to clean from the air Mass sensor onwards to the cyln head. It will clear all carbon and silicon dirt that has accumulated in the intake over the yrs. Its particularly effective in cleaning the throttle body.  

 

- Do an engine flush when u change oil, and please fill it up with top quality 20wt oil.

 

- Since your FD4 is a 5MT, do replace the MT fluid as well. MT is super tough and durable, but it needs fresh fluid to work well too.

 

with regards to the intake manifold cleaning service, is there a need to dismantle the throttle body? i have heard of throttle body being dismantled to clean it and the idle air control valve.

 

is there a way to quantify how effective it is in removing carbon and dirt?

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Civic FD plug should be IZFR6K11.   This plug is a NGK Laser Iridium plug.  Long life which last you 100,000km. 

 

i am using Denso Iridium Power, IK20L. such plug is supposed to be replaced after every 20,000km. I just replaced all the plugs last weekend. they were still in quite good condition after 30,000km.

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i am using Denso Iridium Power, IK20L. such plug is supposed to be replaced after every 20,000km. I just replaced all the plugs last weekend. they were still in quite good condition after 30,000km.

Denso IK can last approx. 40000km as stated by Denso itself.

i would keep it if the car is still in good condition.  :D

If you're throwing away a 10 yr old car and then buy a used car, I say keep your super Civic ba.

 

This thing can outdrag and out handle a lot of cars that cost over $160k these days

 

Keep if there's no issue. Itchy backside is NOT an issue hor [laugh]

 

Throw only if you're buying a new car.

Civic FD plug should be IZFR6K11.   This plug is a NGK Laser Iridium plug.  Long life which last you 100,000km. 

Yup. I replaced those factory originals at 90000km svcs.

 

Actually they are still svcs... but ok la... I self import Denso IK20L from US via Amazon... costs just USD$22 for 4...

 

If you want a long life platinum Denso plug, look for their Iridium Tough series. They have the correct part number for FD.

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Denso IK can last approx. 40000km as stated by Denso itself.

If you're throwing away a 10 yr old car and then buy a used car, I say keep your super Civic ba.

 

This thing can outdrag and out handle a lot of cars that cost over $160k these days

 

Keep if there's no issue. Itchy backside is NOT an issue hor [laugh]

 

Throw only if you're buying a new car.

Yup. I replaced those factory originals at 90000km svcs.

 

Actually they are still svcs... but ok la... I self import Denso IK20L from US via Amazon... costs just USD$22 for 4...

 

If you want a long life platinum Denso plug, look for their Iridium Tough series. They have the correct part number for FD.

oh ok, so the sparks are 90k km! 

 

thanks for the tip.

 

I am ordering engine oil also from Amazon :D what else can we order from there i wonder. lol

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oh ok, so the sparks are 90k km! 

 

thanks for the tip.

 

I am ordering engine oil also from Amazon :D what else can we order from there i wonder. lol

Have u actually placed the order? IIRC, engine oil cant be shipped overseas becos its a highly flammable product.

 

Get from mxtradings.com ba... The price is slightly higher but its still way cheaper than any overpriced and overhyped retail engine oil in SG

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Have u actually placed the order? IIRC, engine oil cant be shipped overseas becos its a highly flammable product.

 

Get from mxtradings.com ba... The price is slightly higher but its still way cheaper than any overpriced and overhyped retail engine oil in SG

 

engine oil CAN be shipped from amazon...but sometimes can, sometimes cannot... have to refresh every few days or weeks...

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yes exactly is like engine brake that kind of feel, its on n off kind of thing esp 1st or 2nd gear want to pick-up from filter lane or from standstill.so this is a common problem for all FD manual and I can say my ride is normal ? thanks

 

engine brake at work? i find that the effect is very strong at first and second gear in an FD. good control of the clutch and accelerator pedals during the upshifting and downshifting of the manual transmission is very important for a smooth ride.

 

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yes exactly is like engine brake that kind of feel, its on n off kind of thing esp 1st or 2nd gear want to pick-up from filter lane or from standstill.so this is a common problem for all FD manual and I can say my ride is normal ? thanks

 

i would not say that is a problem if i understand your description. you just need to control the clutch and accelerator pedals.

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