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Cars after 10 years coe


Kurty
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Those who engineer and design things will have this taken care off. If the pump really really need ls to be covered with fuel to work well, they will design it to take care of the lowest fuel level. It's the same as using 40wt engine oil when the manual specifies 20wt. I really wonder why we all want to be Kay khiang and second guess everything.

 

Anyway as I said to each his own.

An in tank fuel pump is better kept submerged in fuel.

It is designed to be that way. And well perform best under those conditions.

The factory manual wont tell you that it will fail, it will just tell you to top up as soon as the light comes on.

No need to bleed your tank dry lah....heh heh

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For Altis, I recall that it does say its good practice to refill no later than the 1/4 mark.
 

An article I read says that this 1/4 rule, is good, but especially applicable for DI engines.  Coz between MPI & DI, its the latter pump that deals with a lot more pressure.

But even for MPI its still good practice coz, the Altis manual says low levels may lead to misfiring.  My Ws says that if for some reason, say the petrol is swooshing around ......the pump coudnt suck up properly, will cause misfire.

 

Being OCD, I would like to add that many conti cars have easily 55-60 litre tanks.  So 1/4 means ~15L balance.  So in the case of small tanks....e.g.,  Honda Vez, Jz, City....with 40L tanks, best to keep it to min 1/3 tank.


 

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Supercharged

most of the time, alternator or starter motor can be serviced or repaired without replacing the entire unit.

 

check the aircon magnetic clutch. if it is already worn and fails to engage the compressor, verify if it can be replaced without replacing the entire compressor.

 

parts like engine mounting, wheel bearings, serpentine belt etc should be replaced as and when symptoms like excessive vibrations, whining or creaking noises appear.

This aircon magnetic clutch, what is it? First time heard of this name.

 

Aircon is always an area whereby many like myself have overlook or ignore..

 

My aircon maintenance is basically top up the gas. Nothing more

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Your air con magnetic clutch is used to engage the compressor to the engine so that it can start doing work to compress the refrigerant. It is not turn on perpetual ly. Only when need to. So the clutch engage and disengage according to the temperature. One of the hardest working component in your air con and when it fail to work, your compressor cannot run.

Edited by Hosaybo
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Those who engineer and design things will have this taken care off. If the pump really really need ls to be covered with fuel to work well, they will design it to take care of the lowest fuel level. It's the same as using 40wt engine oil when the manual specifies 20wt. I really wonder why we all want to be Kay khiang and second guess everything.

 

Anyway as I said to each his own.

I agree. Fuel pump is submerged in the fuel tank. It should not genetate heat as fuel is imflammable. Using fuel to cool the pump? Have I missed out on anything here?

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My car almost 9 years old. this year alone already replaced radiator fan motor, shock absorber, aircon cooling coil, water pump, belt and thermostat. Engine mount is next to change 

Maybe i should renew the COE 

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I agree. Fuel pump is submerged in the fuel tank. It should not genetate heat as fuel is imflammable. Using fuel to cool the pump? Have I missed out on anything here?

 

 

Fuel wont ignite until it reach the stoichiometric ratio

I dismantle my fuel pump before. I know it generates heat and it feel above average than warm. Should I doubt my sense of feeling? 

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My car almost 9 years old. this year alone already replaced radiator fan motor, shock absorber, aircon cooling coil, water pump, belt and thermostat. Engine mount is next to change 

Maybe i should renew the COE 

 

thats why some people change out the stuff ahead before they breakdown. Can enjoy the new parts longer .............

 

preventive maintenance

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thats why some people change out the stuff ahead before they breakdown. Can enjoy the new parts longer .............

 

preventive maintenance

I didn't.

In the case of radiator fan motor the engine overheat sign lighted up prompting me to replace it.

Aircon cooling coil is replaced when aircon is no longer cold.

And for water pump it gave up working causing coolant to leak and almost caused engine to overheat. 

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My car almost 9 years old. this year alone already replaced radiator fan motor, shock absorber, aircon cooling coil, water pump, belt and thermostat. Engine mount is next to change

Maybe i should renew the COE

Yeah. You really ought to..

 

You must have spend a lot on the replacement

I didn't.

In the case of radiator fan motor the engine overheat sign lighted up prompting me to replace it.

Aircon cooling coil is replaced when aircon is no longer cold.

And for water pump it gave up working causing coolant to leak and almost caused engine to overheat.

At least your parts are easily available. .

 

Lately.. my ignition coil is failing me again. .

A common problem with older renault engine and lucky, it was early stage identified.

Already prepare 3 sets and now on my 4th.

The good thing is as the car aged, parts also becoming cheaper.

The last time I replaced in sg was around $700 and now.. I ordered from KL, only cost me sgd 100.

I decided to change the top gasket and those o rings. Engine is leaking.

 

Hopefully I can still identify the faults early.. I really dread and worried..

 

If break down.. I probably have to tow it while waiting parts from malaysia..

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I agree. Fuel pump is submerged in the fuel tank. It should not genetate heat as fuel is imflammable. Using fuel to cool the pump? Have I missed out on anything here?

I think you have misread or someone has misinformed

Its not about cooling.

Its about the pressure.

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I think you have misread or someone has misinformed

Its not about cooling.

Its about the pressure.

 

Tks for the info. 

This was what I got from one member here when I asked aloud using fuel to cool the pump, which I doubted:

 

"Fuel wont ignite until it reach the stoichiometric ratio

I dismantle my fuel pump before. I know it generates heat and it feel above average than warm. Should I doubt my sense of feeling? "

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My car almost 9 years old. this year alone already replaced radiator fan motor, shock absorber, aircon cooling coil, water pump, belt and thermostat. Engine mount is next to change

Maybe i should renew the COE

You shd renew 10 year COE, not 5 years like what many are doing. PARF is forfeited, don't make sense to renew 5 years with unrenewable COE.

 

Renew COE, plus spend another $3-5k to overhaul + replace wear and tear parts is still cheaper than buying new, even with the Rd tax surcharge.

Edited by Vinceng
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You shd renew 10 year COE, not 5 years like what many are doing. PARF is forfeited, don't make sense to renew 5 years with unrenewable COE.

 

Renew COE, plus spend another $3-5k to overhaul + replace wear and tear parts is still cheaper than buying new, even with the Rd tax surcharge.

 

not necessary not worth to renew 5 years. Have to do some calculation like parf, pqp etc. Insurance about the same price, only changed few minor parts of about $800, these are considered wear and tear items. 

 

I renewed my vios last year Jan. Was considering to change to honda vezel, that time the car price was about 118k, now price is about 92k, difference of 26k. Even if i forfeit my parf of 7k and usage of coe of about 6k for last year, the difference is almost $13k in just 1 year. Will be expecting the COE to drop further this and next year, my aim to ride out the high COE. The saving can be quite massive within these few years.

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not necessary not worth to renew 5 years. Have to do some calculation like parf, pqp etc. Insurance about the same price, only changed few minor parts of about $800, these are considered wear and tear items. 

 

I renewed my vios last year Jan. Was considering to change to honda vezel, that time the car price was about 118k, now price is about 92k, difference of 26k. Even if i forfeit my parf of 7k and usage of coe of about 6k for last year, the difference is almost $13k in just 1 year. Will be expecting the COE to drop further this and next year, my aim to ride out the high COE. The saving can be quite massive within these few years.

 

What happens if COE had risen? Like stocks and property, there is really no way to tell whether prices will rise and fall. It is because sentiment is bad that COE prices are at $~40K instead of ~$90K. Like stocks and property, once sentiment changes, prices can rise swiftly.

 

This topic has been discussed to death in forums. From a depreciation standpoint, there is really not much savings as compared to brand new car when you account for maintenance and road tax for a COE car.

Edited by _h_r_
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You shd renew 10 year COE, not 5 years like what many are doing. PARF is forfeited, don't make sense to renew 5 years with unrenewable COE.

 

Renew COE, plus spend another $3-5k to overhaul + replace wear and tear parts is still cheaper than buying new, even with the Rd tax surcharge.

Going to renew next mth..

 

Now the pqp is as at 49,541. Still save 4k from the initial.

 

My parf is less than 2k..

 

All in all, it's around 51k for 10 years.

 

Parts also replaced, new paint code, new seat and changing new tyre next weekend.

 

Of course, 1 shot 50k gone from my account.. definitely I am sore and upset about it

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Going to renew next mth..

 

Now the pqp is as at 49,541. Still save 4k from the initial.

 

My parf is less than 2k..

 

All in all, it's around 51k for 10 years.

 

Parts also replaced, new paint code, new seat and changing new tyre next weekend.

 

Of course, 1 shot 50k gone from my account.. definitely I am sore and upset about it

 

Top up $20K+ and you can get a new Korean or Jap BnB car!

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