Jump to content

Car brake sensitivity


dreamyxq
 Share

Recommended Posts

How sensitive should the brakes be? I feel like my new mazda 3's brake is not very sensitive compared to my friend's car. Not sure if it's a defect or normal.

I have to depress the brakes for at least 5-7cm before the braking power kicks in. The starting few cm does nothing at all to stop the car.

Edited by Lightsabre
↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure dan if I tell you will you understand what I'm saying? You got to at least know where to look otherwise go straight to a mechanic.

 

First to check.

1) Brake fluid level. Is it within the min-max level? If you don't see any brake fluid most likely a lot of air is in the system giving you the lousy brake feel.

 

2) What colour is the brake fluid?

- Black (replace it)

- clear (good)

 

3) Visually inspect the brake pads.

Use a torchlight to peer at the side of the brake caliper assembly. Compare the thickness with your friend's. Are the brake pads wearing thin?

  • Praise 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

How sensitive should the brakes be? I feel like my new mazda 3's brake is not very sensitive compared to my friend's car. Not sure if it's a defect or normal.

 

I have to depress the brakes for at least 5-7cm before the braking power kicks in. The starting few cm does nothing at all to stop the car.

 

It's normal, brake pad & rotor both are brand new.

 

Need to run in, drive slow. It should get better over the first 1-1.5k mileage clock in.

 

I don't think you need to worry about it for now. [;)]  Enjoy your new ride. [rolleyes]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure dan if I tell you will you understand what I'm saying? You got to at least know where to look otherwise go straight to a mechanic.

 

First to check.

1) Brake fluid level. Is it within the min-max level? If you don't see any brake fluid most likely a lot of air is in the system giving you the lousy brake feel.

 

2) What colour is the brake fluid?

- Black (replace it)

- clear (good)

 

3) Visually inspect the brake pads.

Use a torchlight to peer at the side of the brake caliper assembly. Compare the thickness with your friend's. Are the brake pads wearing thin?

Checked all. Shldn't be a problem, it's a new car.

It's normal, brake pad & rotor both are brand new.

 

Need to run in, drive slow. It should get better over the first 1-1.5k mileage clock in.

 

I don't think you need to worry about it for now. [;)] Enjoy your new ride. [rolleyes]

Currently on 1.2k, still feels the same. I'll wait at see.

 

I'm having my 1k servicing tmr, should I point this out to the dealer workshop?

Link to post
Share on other sites

How sensitive should the brakes be? I feel like my new mazda 3's brake is not very sensitive compared to my friend's car. Not sure if it's a defect or normal.

 

I have to depress the brakes for at least 5-7cm before the braking power kicks in. The starting few cm does nothing at all to stop the car.

 

Is your friend also driving a Mazda 3 of the same generation?

 

How would you compare your current brakes to other cars you've driven?

 

The reason I'm asking is that everyone has different standards for what constitutes normal braking. For example, if you're used to BMW and Honda stock brakes, you may very well find that other brands can't make it. For example, I find that the first few cms of brake pedal on stock Subaru brakes don't do much to stop my Legacy too. Then again, I'm quite demanding when it comes to brakes, and my benchmark is BMW and Honda, which is arguably unreasonable since BMW stock brakes are some of the best.

 

One thing that doesn't do any harm is a brake system bleed/flush, regardless of how new your car is. If I were you, I'd insist on a brake system flush, FOC. Because it can't hurt, you may find it solves your problems, and at the very least you will have eliminated one potential cause of your complaints. Always eliminate the easiest potential causes first, and ruling out your brake fluid should be top of the list cuz it's easy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is your friend also driving a Mazda 3 of the same generation?

 

How would you compare your current brakes to other cars you've driven?

 

The reason I'm asking is that everyone has different standards for what constitutes normal braking. For example, if you're used to BMW and Honda stock brakes, you may very well find that other brands can't make it. For example, I find that the first few cms of brake pedal on stock Subaru brakes don't do much to stop my Legacy too. Then again, I'm quite demanding when it comes to brakes, and my benchmark is BMW and Honda, which is arguably unreasonable since BMW stock brakes are some of the best.

 

One thing that doesn't do any harm is a brake system bleed/flush, regardless of how new your car is. If I were you, I'd insist on a brake system flush, FOC. Because it can't hurt, you may find it solves your problems, and at the very least you will have eliminated one potential cause of your complaints. Always eliminate the easiest potential causes first, and ruling out your brake fluid should be top of the list cuz it's easy.

Ya my friend's a Honda. Sure, I understand that logic. Which is why I'm here, asking if it's normal or something is very wrong. Brakes are very important to me, my life literally depends on it.

 

I'll point it out on my 1k servicing, just afraid that they'll write it off as normal for Mazdas or because its a new car thus havent break it.

 

If I ask them to bleed for me or full flush, will I be charged? I have 3 year or 60k free servicing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya my friend's a Honda. Sure, I understand that logic. Which is why I'm here, asking if it's normal or something is very wrong. Brakes are very important to me, my life literally depends on it.

 

I'll point it out on my 1k servicing, just afraid that they'll write it off as normal for Mazdas or because its a new car thus havent break it.

 

If I ask them to bleed for me or full flush, will I be charged? I have 3 year or 60k free servicing.

Based on what you've shared so far, there's still no red flag that indicates for certain that something's wrong. So best to start eliminating possibilities. Try bedding in your brakes. Bleed or, better yet, flush your brake system. Get your system checked for leaks. And if after all that you still can't find a problem and your braking stays the same (doesn't fluctuate or, worse still, deteriorate), then perhaps you expect more from your brake system than it can provide, like me. In which case your only options will be to change car or upgrade your brakes. But we're not there yet, so one step at a time.

 

There's actually a good chance your pads still aren't bedded properly because your car is so new.

 

You should definitely flag it at your 1k servicing tomorrow to ensure it's on record. Whether or not it's written off by your dealer as a no-issue usually depends on how much of a fuss you politely make. When it matters, I make one hell of a fuss until it's more worthwhile to give me what I want than to refuse me.

 

As for whether or not you'll be charged, it depends on your dealer and you. I would refuse to pay. If I felt my brand new car brakes can't make it, I'd demand a full flush for free and would bang table until I got it. Cuz it my life and my family's. But it's your call.

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...