Jump to content

Forester (NA) vs. Tucson (2L)


Diesel
 Share

  

62 members have voted

  1. 1. Which will you choose?

    • Forester (NA)
      40
    • Tucson (2L)
      22


Recommended Posts

good morning, appreciate the informative and (some) enlightening posts.

 

and yes, i cant afford a FXT or Harrier (even the NA one)

 

 forester in the lead! 

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi. I don't get you on the tarmac AWD part.

 

Can explain?

This guy can explain for you:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBQlK89PyxQ&t=461s

 

Sporty models are rear bias while forester is front bias. MT rides are still 50-50.

 

Back to topic, I would personally choose the Tucson in terms of looks. Forester have a sharper handling and lots of aftermarket poison. If you are not into these, I think Tucson is a better choice.

  • Praise 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

This guy can explain for you:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBQlK89PyxQ&t=461s

 

Sporty models are rear bias while forester is front bias. MT rides are still 50-50.

 

Back to topic, I would personally choose the Tucson in terms of looks. Forester have a sharper handling and lots of aftermarket poison. If you are not into these, I think Tucson is a better choice.

 

 very good info on subaru's AWD system  [thumbsup]

 

i also find tucson's looks better than Forester's slightly dated design 

Link to post
Share on other sites

 very good info on subaru's AWD system  [thumbsup]

 

i also find tucson's looks better than Forester's slightly dated design 

If you can wait end of this year for the new Forester.

 

viziv_future__1.jpg

  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I chose the Tucson over forester last year. 

 

I was told servicing for forester is more expensive (and yes, cos of the boxer engine), and that forester FC will be worse. But these were told only, can't say i can back up with facts/figures.

 

Forester has bigger boot, but I don't always need a big boot.

 

Tucson has rear a/c vents but forester doesn't. Only after i collected, then realised the rear a/c vents are channeled from the front and are not independent a/c like those big MPVs, so they are very weak ones. To have decent a/c flowing to the rear, have to make the front vents smaller, so that more air will be forced to go to the rear. Still do-able, but not as good as I initially thought.

 

Finally, when I calculated the depreciation last year, Forester while selling at lower price, had significantly lower OMV, so depreciation was not lower...

  • Praise 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Let me give u a feel of wat's the cost like.

My top spending for a bone stock Subaru 2L NA with labour cum parts/Lub changed, excl. Batt & tyres :

Milage/ Parts & labour/ cost:

100000 Timing belt, water pump, air-con belt $1155

120000 Steering pump $1085

120000 Radiator replacement $515

140000 Front wheel bearings x 2 $417

130000 Lower arm bushing x4 $322

50000 Brake pad x 4 $285

40000 ATF fluid $270

100000 ATF flush $220

140000 ATF flush $220

60000 Spark plug $210

70000 ATF fluid change (70%) $96

70000 Diff oil change $95

100000 Diff oil change $95

140000 Diff oil change $95

90000 Diff oil seal, front $90

55000 Radiator coolant $80

100000 Brake fluid + flush $70

140000 Air-con, repair, top up $64

 

Currently clock 150000km, pls dun ask me is my price correct? this is wat I paid for, eg, 2 lower arm bushing cost $322 cum labour which was done in JB w/s, rest are in Sg w/s.

  • Praise 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Great explanation video.

 

There is this video showing the actual performance between various AWD systems too.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooQRxlChvMw&gl=SG&hl=en-GB

 

This guy can explain for you:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBQlK89PyxQ&t=461s

 

Sporty models are rear bias while forester is front bias. MT rides are still 50-50.

 

Back to topic, I would personally choose the Tucson in terms of looks. Forester have a sharper handling and lots of aftermarket poison. If you are not into these, I think Tucson is a better choice.

 

  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Let me give u a feel of wat's the cost like.

My top spending for a bone stock Subaru 2L NA with labour cum parts/Lub changed, excl. Batt & tyres :

Milage/ Parts & labour/ cost:

100000 Timing belt, water pump, air-con belt $1155

120000 Steering pump $1085

120000 Radiator replacement $515

140000 Front wheel bearings x 2 $417

130000 Lower arm bushing x4 $322

50000 Brake pad x 4 $285

40000 ATF fluid $270

100000 ATF flush $220

140000 ATF flush $220

60000 Spark plug $210

70000 ATF fluid change (70%) $96

70000 Diff oil change $95

100000 Diff oil change $95

140000 Diff oil change $95

90000 Diff oil seal, front $90

55000 Radiator coolant $80

100000 Brake fluid + flush $70

140000 Air-con, repair, top up $64

 

Currently clock 150000km, pls dun ask me is my price correct? this is wat I paid for, eg, 2 lower arm bushing cost $322 cum labour which was done in JB w/s, rest are in Sg w/s.

Wah bro,you made me feel scare leh!

Need to change so many things for jap car?

Last time I own Korean car,now also own jap car.

See your bill I abit loss confidence in jap quality leh,lol...

My last Korean car also mileage 150k before sell.

Never change so many things like what you describe leh?

-ATF oil two times.

-Radiator coolant two times.

-Brake pad one time.

-Power window repair two times.(two doors)

That's all I can remember.

Don't know whether I made the right decision changing from Korean to jap car,lol....

Edited by Sktan10
  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Wah bro,you made me feel scare leh!

Need to change so many things for jap car?

Last time I own Korean car,now also own jap car.

See your bill I abit loss confidence in jap quality leh,lol...

My last Korean car also mileage 150k before sell.

Never change so many things like what you describe leh?

-ATF oil two times.

-Radiator coolant two times.

-Brake pad one time.

-Power window repair two times.(two doors)

That's all I can remember.

Don't know whether I made the right decision changing from Korean to jap car,lol....

Depend on the milage, if spoiled change, got noise change.

I travel JB jam 3hrs in and 3hrs out, so better change than overheat.

Chicken feet compare VW.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it underpowered?

It's hard to quantify what is underpowered. But AWD cars will have more power loss at the wheels compare to 2wd. So if you compare 2 cars with the same hp, a 2wd car will have more power at the wheels compared to a AWD. But the dynamics that comes with actual driving, things are more complicated.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it underpowered?

not really since power deficiency could be easily be overcome with higher displacement

 

rather the subaru brand trademarks are turbo boxer and awd

 

so buying a subaru without a turbo seems incomplete

 

 

Edited by Enye
  • Praise 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it underpowered?

Underpowered for Petrol Heads [thumbsdown] ,Enough Power for everyday Familyman Drivers [:)] ,overpowered for KuKu Drivers [bigcry] .

Edited by ER-3682
  • Praise 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

190Nm pulling a 1.36ton is sufficient, in rainy days, wet road with good aquaplan tyres, it does its job well especially winding up slope, tail will not swing, unless tyres botak, still it get straighten up fast. Its sure footed at all time. And need to get good brakes, stock cmi. But mine is low CG, things can be different.

  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

not really since power deficiency could be easily be overcome with higher displacement

 

rather the subaru brand trademarks are turbo boxer and awd

 

so buying a subaru without a turbo seems incomplete

 

ð¬ð

So if coming to the new model, MI does not carrying in the Turbo, this model will rest in peace?

Is it underpowered?

More like over shadowed by their turbo. If we look at other asia brand in the past. None of their B&B car come with turbo. Why ppls still buying? Edited by Lotr8445r
Link to post
Share on other sites

Have been driving my previous Subaru Na for 10yrs. The only big amount I paid is timing belt change.

Radiator, stock one burst at 120k km, then I changed to full aluminum then never touch radiator since. Import my own radiator from usa, with installation still cheaper than change at local ws.

Spark plug also bought my own.

Wheel bearing only change out around 150k km and rear only.

All the rest are just normal oil change.

Scrapped my car with mileage close to 200k km. Still can go another 5yrs if you ask me.

Depends on which model you driving, mine I don't really remember I spend a lot.

Now it's my second Subaru, using chain instead of belt for current generation so less one worries.

Diving a car sure need maintenance, I find ok leh.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wah bro,you made me feel scare leh!

Need to change so many things for jap car?

Last time I own Korean car,now also own jap car.

See your bill I abit loss confidence in jap quality leh,lol...

My last Korean car also mileage 150k before sell.

Never change so many things like what you describe leh?

-ATF oil two times.

-Radiator coolant two times.

-Brake pad one time.

-Power window repair two times.(two doors)

That's all I can remember.

Don't know whether I made the right decision changing from Korean to jap car,lol....

Some do preventive maintenance, some only fix when car breakdown.
↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...