Parallel Importers: Recommended ones/ones to avoid

[yokechye]

yup, u r right about PI cars not considered first hand.

 

How PI cars works is someone (an agent) in Japan buys the cars and de-registered them, and export them out. The implication is the Japanese factory will not recognise or have any records of these cars anymore. since they are exported overseas. On the factory's records, the car is sold to an agent in Japan.

 

So when it comes to recall issues or something that got to record checking, it becomes tricky, The japanese factory will have no records of the PI cars and will not give any support

Can only say if want to buy from PI better get from big and reliable old names for some peace of mind. Otherwise go AD.

[davidwong6555]

Any recommendation for Big and relaible PI? Am thinking of getting a Vezel.

 

 

My friend reccomended me to go for those with CASE TRUST accreditation.

[therock]

Vincar..

I am not a PI.

[giants_lee]

Why risk going to PI after so many cases being reported in the news already?

[davidwong6555]

giants_lee, I agree with you. But I am sure we can trust those with CASE TRUST accreditation right? I mean, CASE TRUST is approved by our Government right?

 

I was reading some forum, they were saying if we could get engine and chassis number, should be safe right? cannot run right?

 

 

[Darevil]

Why risk going to PI after so many cases being reported in the news already?

 

AD not doing very well ? 

[Eyke]

giants_lee, I agree with you. But I am sure we can trust those with CASE TRUST accreditation right? I mean, CASE TRUST is approved by our Government right?

 

I was reading some forum, they were saying if we could get engine and chassis number, should be safe right? cannot run right?

get so what?

 

until register under your name, it isn't ur car

[Titank]

Usually how much is the booking fee we need to pay to PI? I came across as high like 20K.

In addition, should we go for guranteed or non guranteed 6 bid? (Clause with No Top Up Require).

[Char]

10k for COE and 5k for car .

[Atrecord]

yup, u r right about PI cars not considered first hand.

 

How PI cars works is someone (an agent) in Japan buys the cars and de-registered them, and export them out.  The implication is the Japanese factory will not recognise or have any records of these cars anymore. since they are exported overseas.  On the factory's records, the car is sold to an agent in Japan.  

 

So when it comes to recall issues or something that got to record checking, it becomes tricky,  The japanese factory will have no records of the PI cars and will not give any support  

 

Just to share:

 

I have a PI Toyota car which i renewed COE last year.

 

I checked with Toyota Japan about the recall concerning the Takata airbag. I received a reply from them that someone from Borneo Motors will contact me, and BM did.

But BM took a while (just less than a month) to check before finally confirming that my car is not involved.

 

On the flip side, the PI i bought the car from told me (when i called them before that) that they only cover up to 10 yr. If car renewed COE, owner ownself settles. When I called LTA, LTA outright said no, and that dealers must be responsible for the cars they sold, as long as it's still on the road, regardless of owner.

 

My confidence in my PI was very high before that. It dropped badly.

[Dafansu]

Just to share:

 

I have a PI Toyota car which i renewed COE last year.

 

I checked with Toyota Japan about the recall concerning the Takata airbag. I received a reply from them that someone from Borneo Motors will contact me, and BM did.

But BM took a while (just less than a month) to check before finally confirming that my car is not involved.

 

On the flip side, the PI i bought the car from told me (when i called them before that) that they only cover up to 10 yr. If car renewed COE, owner ownself settles. When I called LTA, LTA outright said no, and that dealers must be responsible for the cars they sold, as long as it's still on the road, regardless of owner.

 

My confidence in my PI was very high before that. It dropped badly.

 

I think every PI works differently. I went back to BM last year for the replacement when my car was 12 years. 

[Atrecord]

I think every PI works differently. I went back to BM last year for the replacement when my car was 12 years. 

 

ADs i'm sure with their reputation to the consumers and their brands/principals, will have to do the necessary regardless of age of car.

 

Else, words reach the brand/principal, the might end up at risk of the dealership.

 

PIs never consider such things, and they (often) dun give a damn about reputation, as we have seen so much of.

 

My PI was - and still is - a reputable one. Has been around for decades. I sang their praises for 10 yr+. Since that call, I have my reservation. Dunno is it just the guy who answered my call was totally irresponsible and ignorant, or the whole company is like that.

 

Anyway, I supposed there should be responsible and good PIs too. Good luck finding them.

[davidwong6555]

get so what?

 

until register under your name, it isn't ur car

So is there a way to check if the car I am buying is really imported from that PI? Edited February 10, 2017 by davidwong6555

[davidwong6555]

I was thinking, there must be a way to check if that particular motor vehicle is really imported by the PI. Does anyone know? 10k to 20k deposit is no joke man. Wait PI run away- all savings gone

[Wt_know]

nowadays PI will ask more than $20K deposit

want to run ... must run away with more $$$

 

I was thinking, there must be a way to check if that particular motor vehicle is really imported by the PI. Does anyone know? 10k to 20k deposit is no joke man. Wait PI run away- all savings gone

 

Edited February 10, 2017 by Wt_know

[youpapalite]

I was thinking, there must be a way to check if that particular motor vehicle is really imported by the PI. Does anyone know? 10k to 20k deposit is no joke man. Wait PI run away- all savings gone

Can bid own COE then find PI buy car.

[Finclk]

I teach you all the steps to buy from PI as safe as possible. 

 

But firstly only buy from PI if:

1) AD don't carry the model you really want

2) AD doesn't carry the model with sufficient specs that you want

3) AD import from country of manufacture which isn't what you like (BM Toyota Sienta is from Indo, PI Sienta is from Japan)

 

Try to accept a model from AD instead of PI, but if you still have to buy from PI, then consider the following points.

1) Buy from PI who is big, have been in business for more than 10 years and generally have good market reputation

2) Buy from PI who is at least case trust accredited. But take note that even if a case trust PI collapses, the 50k bond cannot save everyone.

 

So how to buy from PI in a way as safe as possible? 

1) Give downpayment as low as possible. I don't think it's possible to go below $10k as 10k is the min needed to bid for COE. Let the PI bid COE for you unnless you willing to give PI higher margin as he would charge you higher price if he sells you the car without COE. $15k also can actually.

2) Once COE is secured in your name, LTA will send you a letter or you can even check online.

3) Buy a car which is already sitting in the show room that meets the following conditions:

- Is already VITAS approved by LTA (and you can see the accompanying letter from LTA to the PI in name and stating the car and engine chasis number)

- The car you are buying from be imported by the PI themselves. Do not buy from PIs who do not import the cars themselves.

4) Get the necessary loan approved before hand. When it is time to pay up the remaining downpayment, bring cashier's Order to PI. Pay Cashier's order only when PI on spot transfer title of car to you. 

5) Wait for car to be fitted with your necessary accessories and collect car when it's time. 

 

You must always think about what is the risk at every stage of the car collection process if the PI suddenly folds. Big PI also can fold. Casetrust also can fold. Lesser risk but still can. 

 

Most of the problems which people have is paying large downpayments. Like 50% downpayment and then before car is registered in your name, the car company runs into problem and folds. When creditor steps in, as long as you don't have the car registered in your name, they will seize it and use the car as collateral to sell and pay off the debts. And of course you and every other customers downpayment also gone. 

 

So only handover the money on the spot when car is registered in your name. 

 

Same goes when one is selling car to PI. Give the LTA ePIN when you collect the cashier's order (not cheque)

[nnagas]

I teach you all the steps to buy from PI as safe as possible. 

 

But firstly only buy from PI if:

1) AD don't carry the model you really want

2) AD doesn't carry the model with sufficient specs that you want

3) AD import from country of manufacture which isn't what you like (BM Toyota Sienta is from Indo, PI Sienta is from Japan)

 

Try to accept a model from AD instead of PI, but if you still have to buy from PI, then consider the following points.

1) Buy from PI who is big, have been in business for more than 10 years and generally have good market reputation

2) Buy from PI who is at least case trust accredited. But take note that even if a case trust PI collapses, the 50k bond cannot save everyone.

 

So how to buy from PI in a way as safe as possible? 

1) Give downpayment as low as possible. I don't think it's possible to go below $10k as 10k is the min needed to bid for COE. Let the PI bid COE for you unnless you willing to give PI higher margin as he would charge you higher price if he sells you the car without COE. $15k also can actually.

2) Once COE is secured in your name, LTA will send you a letter or you can even check online.

3) Buy a car which is already sitting in the show room that meets the following conditions:

- Is already VITAS approved by LTA (and you can see the accompanying letter from LTA to the PI in name and stating the car and engine chasis number)

- The car you are buying from be imported by the PI themselves. Do not buy from PIs who do not import the cars themselves.

4) Get the necessary loan approved before hand. When it is time to pay up the remaining downpayment, bring cashier's Order to PI. Pay Cashier's order only when PI on spot transfer title of car to you. 

5) Wait for car to be fitted with your necessary accessories and collect car when it's time. 

 

You must always think about what is the risk at every stage of the car collection process if the PI suddenly folds. Big PI also can fold. Casetrust also can fold. Lesser risk but still can. 

 

Most of the problems which people have is paying large downpayments. Like 50% downpayment and then before car is registered in your name, the car company runs into problem and folds. When creditor steps in, as long as you don't have the car registered in your name, they will seize it and use the car as collateral to sell and pay off the debts. And of course you and every other customers downpayment also gone. 

 

So only handover the money on the spot when car is registered in your name. 

 

Same goes when one is selling car to PI. Give the LTA ePIN when you collect the cashier's order (not cheque)

 

Thanks for taking the time to write that out Finclk.

Very useful for potential new car buyers like me.

I am looking to get a car from Leco. However, they do not offer free servicing.

AD like Kah and Borneo motors offer free servicing for say 3 years on top of warranty.

Is this a common trait with PIs, in that they do not offer free servicing?

Also Leco told me they have partner workshops. Which implies that their workshops are not in-house. Should i be vary of that?

Appreciate any input, its a very confusing PI world out there for potential new car buyers like me.