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Need help on technical data of a Capsule tank (gu-ni gong)


Tanjm348
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Hi Friends,

 

Any1 knows or can provide the follow data.

1. What volume of what cc size car.

2. If higher volume is used than recommended, what is the effect.

3. Was told that it provides more air for combustion act as air tank when installed on vacuum line.

4. Have occurance of brake failure when installed on brake line.

5. Effect on brakes when installed on vacuum line

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Actually I am thinking of DIY 1 from PVC pipes, just to test it out. But need know what volume to use & back calculate the dimensions.

 

I guess no ones seems to be interested in my tread.... [bigcry]

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May not get good seal. Most old metal ones tend to wrap at the tread after much abuse during training. May need to do welding on the ends to take the brass spnot for connection.

 

PVC pipes much easier to handle...Anyone knows or can show pic hows its connected to the vacuum line? After much research I think its done 2ways...

 

1. Inserted btw the intake manifold & engine (or btw existing brake booster)

Intake manifold ------{Capsule}------Engine

 

2. installed parallel to the vacuum line btw intake manifold & Engine using 2 T-junctions

Intake Manifold ---T-----------T---Engine

..........................|-{Capsule}-|

 

The dots are for alignment only for the pic.

Anyone know which is the correct one

Edited by Tanjm348
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Any idea what is the purpose of the engine breather outlet?

 

I am intrigue by how connecting the capsule there will increase performance...can enlighten?

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I was told the air inside the capsule will give added air supply hence increasing the air volume for combustion. Making the fuel-air mixture leaner, the system by-passes any sensors since is connected to the breather outlet, so the ECU will not make any fuel adjustments making fuel injected amt to similar as before.

 

Leaner mixture will increase the pwr however it also degrades your engine at a higher rate depending on how lean it is.

 

The E68, AirMax etc also does the same thing. However it has a side-effect. If you notice the capsule is a closed system. But the E68, AirMax is open. Your brakes booster are also connected to the car vacuum manifold with the E68/airmax, you will have a "leaking" system which caused you to loss same braking. I have seen it on my friend's 1.6 TS. the braking is terrible. It was comfirmed by ADM Sly Lim when he saw it. Your brake loss will depend on how much air you letting in

 

These are some of the info got from reading treads from Toyota Club & research from website. But no one was providing pics on how its installed.

 

So far only 1 site provided vol size which gives 1l for small cars...1.7l for big cars. Based on my excel modelling it will take 2.5" dia & 12" length to get the vol of 1.1l

Edited by Tanjm348
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that came cross my mind...but came up with the solution....use acrylic strips placed across the diameter, use epoxy glue to it to the inside of the tube applied by using satay sticks as it may be too far to reach...I was thinking to make a U-shape capsule to save space.

 

But how did you install your DIY capsule into the vacuum system? Parallel or inline?

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i hv two gng connect as in yer method #1 as inidcated.

"1. Inserted btw existing brake booster vacuum line (in series) with throttlebody/manifold.

2. btw the intake manifold & engine."

Edited by Normal_aspirated
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you DIY using army surplus canteens or use actual capsule...any drop in brake performance. Hows you car performance after that.

 

I'm going to buy parts for it 2moro went to local neighbourhood HW shop. They only have 50mm dia PVC. I guess have to make a trip down to jalan basir...hope it cost less than $10

Edited by Tanjm348
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bro, I was actually thinking of DIY my own capsule after finding out that the actual one cost $$$$$ to have it installed. using PVC seems like a good idea, those in the market are usually made of stainless steel kinds, IMO will get very hot under the hood.

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2 things are needed for combustion to happen. Oxygen & fuel.

 

Now think for a second, PVC materials when heated, give XXXXXXX (Chemistry xperts pls fill in the blanks). How is that gonna help?

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Bro thanks for the heads-up. I manage to dig up MSDS for PVC...you never can be too careful

 

Fire and Explosion Hazard Data

===========================================================================

Flash Point: 500F,260C

Flash Point Method: COC

Lower Explosive Limit: N/A

Upper Explosive Limit: N/A

Extinguishing Media: CO*2 OR WATER.

Special Fire Fighting Proc: WEAR NIOSH/MSHA APPROVED SCBA AND FULL

PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT (FP N). WEAR GAS MASK APPROVED FOR ACID VAPORS.

Unusual Fire And Expl Hazrds: PVC WILL NOT CONTINUE TO BURN AFTER IGNITION

WITHOUT AN EXTERNAL FIRE SOURCE. BURNING LIBERATES HCL GAS.

Report for NIIN: 00N031647

===========================================================================

Reactivity Data

===========================================================================

Stability: YES

Cond To Avoid (Stability): TEMPERATURE ABOVE 300F WILL DECOMPOSE RAW RESIN

AND LIBERATE HCL.

Materials To Avoid: POLYVINYL CHLORIDE CMPDS SHOULD NOT COME INTO CONT W/

ACETAL/ACETAL COPOLYMERS IN ELEVATED TEMP PROCESSING (SUPP DATA)

Hazardous Decomp Products: SLOW RELEASE OF HCL WHEN HEATED ABOVE 300F.

Hazardous Poly Occur: NO

Conditions To Avoid (Poly): NOT RELEVANT

================================================================================

========

 

Looks like I got to watch the heat in the engine bay....even though flash pt is at 260C

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I just got the parts I need...costed me RM$28 from Malaysia...I changed the design abit the capsule is in a U-shape. compact easier to mount at the side of the engine bay...just incase someone decided to sue me for copy-right.

 

The pipe dia is 3"...length should be abt 12"...Vol abt 1.2l or 1200cc

My research has show a brand to be 1.0l & 1.7l....so I'm in the middle.

Edited by Tanjm348
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