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Any Professional Workshop for Brake Disc Installation?


Lorrliew
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Neutral Newbie
(edited)

Can anyone recommend any good & professional workshop to install brake disc and is capable of checking runout?

 

Below is an extract of proper disc installation:

 

If sport rotors are not checked for runout, driving without even applying brakes will exhibit a clicking noise on a

Edited by Lorrliew
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Throughout my almost 3 decades of association with the auto service industry , I have never come across any HDB workshop that has a dial gauge with special designed arm to take disc run out and balljoint free play

post-8-1154282437_thumb.jpg

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Neutral Newbie

I'm actually having vibration problem with my 9,000km new slotted and drilled disc, very frustrating after spending the money on a full new set of disc and pad?

 

Perhaps, these sports discs are more 'sensitive'??? Any experience from Bros out there?

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Neutral Newbie

Was your vib there since day 1? Else it could just be pad residue adhering to the disc. If so, the vib will resolve itself over time. However, you need to refrain from extreme braking pressure and just drive normally. Had this experience b4 on my new car after changing pads but too lazy to send back and it sorted itself out over 2mths and now 1.5yrs later, no vib whatsoever. Initial thought was warped disc but that's not true.

 

My vib was only hard braking above 100km/h, below that no issue. Now 180km/h also no vib at all.

 

Just sharing.

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Neutral Newbie

It occur only after about 8,000km and in the range of 70-80km/hr braking. I have then look up on various disc manufacturer website and this seems to be a common recommendation.

 

http://www.bendixbrakes.com/downloads/Peda...-it-Happens.pdf

 

http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/technicalInfo.asp

 

But it don't seem to be a practise for workshops here!!! bigcry.gif

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Neutral Newbie

70-80 range is quite unbearable. Sometimes theory may not be the solution for all things. In any case its 'ang mo' vs 'local' potatoe. What combo disc and pads are you using...brand?

 

If you'r on EBC greenstuff pads...its common for the disc to result in vibs.

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Neutral Newbie

I've directly imported from EBC full set front(turbo grooves) and rear disc with redstuffs pads. EBC allows me to claim under warranty, but they say is likely due to runout problem during installation. With high shipping cost and inability to find so 'pro' brake disc installer, I'm in a dilemma!!! bigcry.gif

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Neutral Newbie

No offense with my frankness but you've repeated an experience that many have gone through using EBC pads years back (reason why no one resells EBC locally or use them anymore). Worst of all is the fact you used the Red stuff which is much harsher than the green...no surprise the end result is what you're facing.

 

You dun have to search far to get better braking unless you're changing to a big brake kit. If your intent is to stick to replacement alternatives, may I suggest getting back stock discs or OEM (no slots or whatsoever), just plain vented. Use either The Ferodo Premier or Zero range, or Pagid street pads (blue box) and renew the brake fluid with a good quality DOT4 fluid together with proper bleeding using the vacuum pump rather than manual pumping with the feet.

 

Better braking does not mean getting the higher end stuff or fancy slotting. Its matching the right co-efficient of friction for both pads and disc, based on your braking patterns. Its like a relationship and mismatching can result in less than perfect results.

 

For now, I suggest you ditch the red stuff and get the Ferodo (not the DS range) or Pagid street pads. Keep the disc and let the new pads scrub the disc to clear any pad residue on the disc surface. If after 1-2mths, the vibs is still there, change the disc to stock.

 

Dun go searching in the wrong end for a 'pro' installer...frankly, that's not the cause of what has happened. You're not the 1st in SG to 'play' with brakes and I have seen and heard of many successful brake transplants and upgrades without the method of what you described as 'pro' installer. Dun take my word for it, go ask those who have used EBC.

Edited by El69
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If you have friends in the metal machining business, they should have a dial gauge with magnetic base.You can improvise dial set-up to do the run-out check.

Your vibration problem appears only after 8,000km, so logically may not be run-out problem, The problem can be due to hot/ glazed spots on the disc cause by high speed hard breaking. The localised heat has actually hardened the particular spot which is now galazed and therefore very difficult for the pad to " bit" in when you are doing the breaking. With mnay hot spots spread across the disc surface, the wheels speed becomes erratic during breaking and that maybe the cuase of vibration.

The other possibility is one of the front bearing may not be properly pre-loaded ( have yet to comme across a mechanics in spore doing grease packing and preloading the front wheel tapered bearings)and during breaking the wheel hub+ disc have the tendency to move side way. This free play maybe creating the extra vibrations.

Hope this helps

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Neutral Newbie

It was not really a brake transplant, these EBC stuffs supposed to have been designed for the model and make of the car.

 

In fact, this combination was recommended by EBC technical department after a few discussion with them.

 

Maybe, like what the workshop says these EBC disc may not be suitable for our climate conditions. But then again, the weather in UK is just as eratic as SG with lots of rain........hmmmmmmm????

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Neutral Newbie

Understand its not a transplant but a direct replacement for your make. Heat is the major cause for most parts failure and rightfully even so for brakes. Rain will never be cause of it and when the wkshops meant not suitable, they are referring to the heat.

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Neutral Newbie

I have not experienced disc runout, but my old ride, a peugeot squels whenever I apply brakes. I have used ate, valeo and halfords house brand but they all squel the same.

 

The pads stop squeling during a trip to cameron highlands where the morning temp is about 18c. This has led me to believe the squeling is temperature related.

 

You can check for runout by using a dial gauge attached to a magnetic base. It's a simple procedure but the mechanics here simply don't care because high repair turnover is more important than doing a good job.

 

Proper torqing of the wheel nuts also plays a part to prevent distortion of the disc. The mating surface between the disc and the hub must be free of dirt to prevent runout. I always use a wire brush to remove rust/dirt from the mounting surfaces before I install the disc.

 

HTH

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