EEeee Sound...

[Dennisk]

there is a EEEeee sound each time i step on my clutch and releasing it. it sound like it needs lubricant for it.... like door hinges...what is the problem? i experience this about 2 weeks ago till now...

 

is it clutch going to wear out or....i am not sure...

[Mercuri]

i think could be your clutch needs replacement... try this test..

 

with engine running, engage 3rd gear and very slowly release the clutch. if car move, clutch still good. if not, clutch and other parts like bearings, clutch plate really due. just my guess... By the way, have you changed the clutch assembly before?

 

best to let your mech assess your prob.

[Dennisk]

mine running for about 65000km....have not change any clutch system yet...need replacement now? you mean engage gear 3 when car is idling or moving?

[Elfenstar]

creaking noise from the clutch. could mean 2 thing. the first being the metal piece in the drivers footwell that goes through the firewall is not lubricated (or the other end in the engine bay), or the throw out bearing is on its way out.

[Dennisk]

i don't understand "the throw out bearing is on its way out".

 

what is it actually? i am green on this...

[Elfenstar]

its a bearing that fits in the middle of the clutch. if thats on its way out, then you might as well get a new clutch as the labour would cost as much as changing a clutch.

[Dennisk]

any idea how much will it cost to change a clutch? change back to original clutch or "better" ones will be recommended...

 

btw, what will i experience when driving if that's the case?

Edited September 21, 2006 by Dennisk

[Elfenstar]

cost. dunno you gotta ask others.

 

type of clutch? up to you. if you're a laid back driver, theres no point in changing to a heavy duty clutch.

 

once it goes, its going to make it much much harder for you to depress the clutch. thats pretty much it.

[Stivo]

whahha!! elfenstar is spot on again!... a clutch adkustment and WD40 will do the trick!!

[Dennisk]

clutch adjustment?

 

WD40 spray where?

[Dennisk]

is this consider heavy duty clutch?

 

http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/10040

 

so how many part do a clutch have? which to change?

Edited September 22, 2006 by Dennisk

[Elfenstar]

stivo is talking abt the pedal. rem i said 2 causes. the fork that runs from the pedal to the master cylinder and the throw out bearing.

 

anywayz thats an oem replacement clutch. if you're driving a nissan it will be identical except that it doesnt have the nissan word stamped on It should be roughly abt the same as what you have, and thats a clutch kit. comes with everything you need.

 

Btw get it checked out first to see if its the fork or the bearing. No point shelling money out for a new clutch when all you have to do is to get the fork adjusted and greased up. If its a bearing, considering your mileage, when the mech takes out your old clutch ask him how much "meat is left" if theres more than 30% its up to you (though i think you should change it), if less then i would say change your clutch for sure.

 

Edit: how high is the biting point from the top of the pedal (approx, and in cm pls)???

Edited September 22, 2006 by Elfenstar

[Dennisk]

i am driving a mazda 323, i will check it out first whether is it the fork or the bearing?

 

fork adjusted and greasing up won't cost too much money right?

[Elfenstar]

30mins max in terms of labour times. other than grease theres no other costs.

[Dennisk]

i found out this during my search...

 

http://www.drivetrain.com/clutcharticle.html

 

If the problem is noise coming from the clutch system, a simple test can identify the source of the noise before you tear into the system. There are two potential bearing-noise makers in the clutch system-the release bearing and the pilot bearing. To determine which one, if either, is making the noise follow these steps:

 

Step 1 With the engine running and the transmission in neutral, if the noise occurs it is in the transmission, most likely the front bearing supporting the input shaft.

 

Step 2 If that is not the problem, place your foot on the clutch pedal and begin to depress the pedal. If you begin to hear the noise at this point, the problem is the clutch release bearing. If not, proceed to the next step.

 

Step 3 Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. If you hear the noise at this point it is the pilot bearing or bushing. If you do not hear any noise during this test, the problem is not in the clutch system. Identifying these conditions early before removing and replacing the components goes a long way toward preventing a recurrence of the problem.

 

if i change the clutch release bearing, will the labour be the same as changing the whole clutch?

Edited September 22, 2006 by Dennisk

[Mercuri]

labour cost should be about the same...the mech still got to remove the whole clutch assembly to reach the release bearing.

 

for me..if i am sure bearing got prob...might as well change the whole clutch(clutch plate, cover and the 2 bearings) for peace of mind. not that i am rich but doesn't make sense if suay suay 1 year down the road, other clutch component spoil. i still have to fork out labour cost to get that part replaced...

 

anyway my 2 cts...

[Dennisk]

that's what on my mind also...was thinking of changing the whole clutch. btw, whole clutch needed to change only consist of clutch plate, cover and the 2 bearing only? is there any more?

[Elfenstar]

It will be abt 20-30 more if you buy a clutch kit.

 

A clutch kit consists of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out/pilot bearing.

 

Other than the clutch itself, your next most expensive cost would be the labour for taking the gearbox off.

 

Edit: I forgot to mention, since the gearbox is coming off, i would also suggest you spend approx another 20 on changing the rear main seal. Don't forget to make sure your mechanic machines the flywheel.

Edited September 23, 2006 by Elfenstar