Alternator - How to tell if it is kapoot!!!???

[Yewhiong]

Is a bit low... It could be an old battery..

 

Anyway, my deduction is the alternator is working... Any experts here to offer their views?

[A_korusawa]

Hi, Experts

 

Need Your Utmost help PLS....

 

I drive a 3.5 yrs 2AZFE. I have recently changed the car batt (<1 mth)- yes, higher amps.

I had also previously serviced the starter - yes, recoil & carbon bush etc.

 

But I have several experiences that car keeps cranking but dun ignite - I have to crank again. To date, no mechanics could tell me what's wrong???

 

Worse, I began to experience car suddenly shut-off by itself while travelling. Once in Hi-way that I almost wacked by car behind. The other incident inside car park that I almost bang pillars as the steering is locked from power-off.

 

I dunno when's the next shut-off coming!? Any advice? What do you think might have gone wrong?!

 

Your help is appreciated....

[Albeniz]

Over the last 8 years, 2 alternators have been replaced.

 

Symptoms of the first faulty alternator:

-Strange burning scent, although no visible flames/smokes were seen near the alternator area.

 

Symptoms of the second faulty alternator:

- unusual sound could be heard while driving.

[Solar]

i think mine is similar to yours.. when driving, about 14.1, but sometimes idling/waiting, about 13.5 (dunno why it varies).. if engine off, can slowly drop from 12.1 to 11.9.

it was supposd to be a new amron maintenance free battery from aas..

yes, hopefully someone can advice too..i got an old battery (kenna carrot by aas) or alternator going to kapoot soon?

[Bloodaxe]

buy a battery tester that diagnose the battery and alternator. turns out my battery and alternator are fine, just consuming too much power for battery to charged properly. The solution is cheap, I yanked out the power cables of my sub-woofer and amp. now car drives very smooth

[Holysniper]

something in ur car is drainin ur battery?

[Solar]

hmmm.. now that you mentioned, i do have quite a few devices attached.. maybe its time to review them.. thanks holysniper & bloodaxe

[Holysniper]

you're welcome!

 

stuffs like GPS, HP charger etc.

[Phoenix]

I experience similar signs too. While idling if switch off lights and air con the voltage will rise back to 14.1 which my workshop says is alternator weak (Bros here says may not be the case).

 

At least my car doesn't switch off while driving so that's not too bad.

[Contax]

I was told that the alternator will only be able to charge the car battery at certain rpm , is it true ?

[Dumb]

Thanks Simnon for the swift reply.

 

So can I say alternator weak shouldn't be the fault? Since car shold be running on battery after engine's off.

 

After I switch off my car engine, can see the voltage drop from 12.5 to 12.4 to 12.3 in a few minutes. Usually stablised at 11.9 even after parked few hrs or overnight. Problem is after 2-3 days of short distance driving it can be 9.5 the next day even though the previous day was ok (car thus cannot start at that voltage)

 

If I drive to the workshop, battery should be fully charged by then so would the quick charge be able to determine any fault as suggested by you? Wonder if workshop will try to one by one isolate the problem as suggested by you.

 

Me not guru. But quite certain alternator is not the problem. May be battery also not a problem. I suspect that some devices consuming quite alot of your battery when you left your car parked over a certain number of hours.

 

[Furrynadz]

look at the colour of the coils inside

copper red is ok

dark brown/black means gone

[Limbat]

I was told that the alternator will only be able to charge the car battery at certain rpm , is it true ?

 

Yes, normally they start charging at 1500rpm.

 

Guys seems like the problem may also be insufficient changing ampere from the alternator. Battery also must be checked & charged.

[Victorco]

few way to see if your alternator is charging.

 

anytime also can

1. monitor your FC see if it increase and your car draggy to move.

2. off your air-con and rev the engine up down between 2 to 4k few times listen for metal rubbing noise around the alternator. if there is any mostly is due to worn brush in the alternator.

3. monitor if your morning crank get harder to crank.

4. like most say get a volt meter to test your batt. hook up to your batt and crank, it should drop to about 10v or so and bounce back to 12 ~ 14v.

5. get a electrical workshop to test your alternator charge if enough.

6. find those battery shop that have CCA report tester for your battery see if the charge is still sufficient.

7. if you have any audio equipment check if the grounding is OK.

 

easy night test

1. after u start your car on your head light onli rev to about 2k RPM for few sec then release see if your light will dim off and bright back or dim off and stay there. if it stay then your alternator is not really charging well.

2. brake light test. at stationery off all your electronic stuff, on 1 of your cabin light depress your brake see if your light dip and brighten or dip and stay. if it stay then your alternator is not really charging well.

 

 

some tips on alternator and your battery.

1. never get a bigger battery then your alternator can charge. by doing so you will only stress your alternator.

2. try to off all your equipment before cranking or cutting off your engine. this way you will use lesser power from your battery at crank.

3. try not to blast your air-con immediately after starting your car. cause your air-con also draw power from your battery but your battery Voltage is already drain when you crank your car so blasting will stress both battery and alternator more to produce current for all the equipment.

 

 

the above are all my past experience from asking around workshop and monitoring when i drove my beloved old COE car.

[Chenoire]

few way to see if your alternator is charging.

 

anytime also can

1. monitor your FC see if it increase and your car draggy to move.

2. off your air-con and rev the engine up down between 2 to 4k few times listen for metal rubbing noise around the alternator. if there is any mostly is due to worn brush in the alternator.

3. monitor if your morning crank get harder to crank.

4. like most say get a volt meter to test your batt. hook up to your batt and crank, it should drop to about 10v or so and bounce back to 12 ~ 14v.

5. get a electrical workshop to test your alternator charge if enough.

6. find those battery shop that have CCA report tester for your battery see if the charge is still sufficient.

7. if you have any audio equipment check if the grounding is OK.

 

easy night test

1. after u start your car on your head light onli rev to about 2k RPM for few sec then release see if your light will dim off and bright back or dim off and stay there. if it stay then your alternator is not really charging well.

2. brake light test. at stationery off all your electronic stuff, on 1 of your cabin light depress your brake see if your light dip and brighten or dip and stay. if it stay then your alternator is not really charging well.

 

 

some tips on alternator and your battery.

1. never get a bigger battery then your alternator can charge. by doing so you will only stress your alternator.

2. try to off all your equipment before cranking or cutting off your engine. this way you will use lesser power from your battery at crank.

3. try not to blast your air-con immediately after starting your car. cause your air-con also draw power from your battery but your battery Voltage is already drain when you crank your car so blasting will stress both battery and alternator more to produce current for all the equipment.

 

 

the above are all my past experience from asking around workshop and monitoring when i drove my beloved old COE car.

 

Don't you just love COE cars. They teach you so much in life. Had the same experience as you, bro.

[Rev_zone]

Today just notice something from my ride. When the car is on the move (aircon / hid headlight / hid foglight) all on the voltage only show 12.7v and if I off my hid foglight the voltage will up to 13.1v so does it means my alternator is charging weak?

[Victorco]

Today just notice something from my ride. When the car is on the move (aircon / hid headlight / hid foglight) all on the voltage only show 12.7v and if I off my hid foglight the voltage will up to 13.1v so does it means my alternator is charging weak?

 

it's seem ok at 12.7v. btw is it on the move or stationary ?

cos if on stationary the alternator wont be turning fast enough to put out a high load as compare to moving. if it does your idle will be higher then normal.

 

[Rev_zone]

it's seem ok at 12.7v. btw is it on the move or stationary ?

cos if on stationary the alternator wont be turning fast enough to put out a high load as compare to moving. if it does your idle will be higher then normal.

 

It's on the move, that's why I worry the charging is weak.