Brisk Premium Performance Plug

[Hattee]

It seems Brisk plugs are becoming very strong performance contenders to Denso, NGK, Bosch, Splitfire and Champion. Essentially, the first ignition design combining E-field concentration and surface ionisation using confined electrode exposure and more effective arcing over insulated E-field plane without the usual electrode obstruction to fuel mixture. More layman terms are given

www.briskusa.com/advantages.htm#unique

 

Imagine performance improvement just with this plug is reportedly measurable by several independent auto community

www.briskusa.com/test_results02_europe.htm

www.briskusa.com/test_results05_universal.htm

www.briskusa.com/test_results06_strickly.htm

 

Those looking for equiv replacement might want to refer here

www.briskusa.com/cross_reference01.htm

 

And those who believe in more competitive pricing from the global sources (no offence to local retailers) can try at

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/MotorPlaza

http://www.eurosportacc.com/performance_sp...bosch_brisk.htm

http://search.ebay.com.sg/_W0QQsassZjames-brisk

 

Go for LGS (not the Nology wannabe conventional plug) if you want clear improvement over Denso and NGK iridium. LGS is probbaly better than its ZC/ZS/TXS/YS series and costs only about GBP7.5, USD12 or AUD20 each overseas.

 

LGS has a lavish silver centre electrode of nology, 4 earth electrodes sharper than multi-electrode Bosch/Splitfire and a circumferential insulation almost to the silver rod tip. What's new in the design is its highest intensity surface discharge at the locality of richest mixture over the 360 deg perimeter. Exposing directly to the fuel mixture will be the long glide spark, for past decades racers tried to achieve with bigger gap and stronger ignition coil. This can never be realised fully with most conventional plug obstructed by its own earth electrode or the less effective free-space discharge of multi-electrode Bosch/Splitfire.

 

What's detering the intense firing will only be left to a mediocre ignition coil (and wire), an alternator wanting better stabilisation or a weaken battery. If this plug really produces intense spark, can't expect longer life than iridium considering the wear sustained from the almost continuous arcing bombardment. Perhaps, the performance improvement, lesser acceleration wear, potential FC savings translated to cleaner engine and oil might put its relatively shorter life of 20k-40k from its most conductive silver electrode a non-issue.

[Glim]

Heard from some bros that local suppliers of Brisk plugs suggested their $176 LGS are genuine Brisk plugs from Europe and the lower priced LGS are from China. In fact Brisk are all made in Czec. Can those ordered from UK, Australia and USA made in China?

 

For the benefit of the rest who might surf around, current worldwide prices of each Brisk LGS ranges from USD12.75 to USD18.00, excluding shipping. Haven't found anyone selling beyond USD30 per plug except our local suppliers. Also, do you think cost of production in Czec is any higher than China even if our local suppliers can imagine a plant there?

 

You can order yourself from:

http://search.ebay.com.sg/_W0QQsassZjames-brisk

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/MotorPlaza

http://www.eurosportacc.com/performance_....bosch_brisk.htm

 

There are cheaper models TXS/YS offered by local suppliers but of the concentional design and not as good as their $176 LGS.

[Smhomie]

Yes, you are right there all plugs come from Brisk Tabor in Cz. Those farkers think they can smoke us with their 'tiong kok' theory? Merchants DO really think locals are village idiots....

 

BUT, to be fair to the importers, I must say that the risk of self-purchase over the net maybe a risky proposition depending on how you liken your risk appetite to... Let me explain :

 

Imagine you buy your set of LGS from Mr Aussy or Mr Brit or Mr Cowboy, the package arrives but :

 

1) 1 plug is missing (hole in the envelope, patched up using scotchtape) or

2) you discover 1 plug is cracked at the sintered porcelain nose (postman throw the package around like frisbee) or

3) after installing the plugs, one chamber misfires due to manufacturing defect (honest thruth, it does happen).

 

Question here is : What recourse do you have or entitled to locally for the damaged plug/s?

 

Answer would be : None the local importers would most likely say "Balls to you,bro! who ask you to buy from ang moh not us??" in other words: Lan Lan

 

You do know you can't be using 3 plugs LGS and 1 plug Denso/NGK right? Kind of defeats the whole idea of having silver plugs all round right? Basically buying from overseas inherently always contain an element of merchandise risk, if you ask me. Some products are better not bought yourself, especially if they contain a certain amount of electronic properties.

 

The local importers are just taking advantage of the current situation now.... commercially, that's all. If you don't believe sparks alone can improve any combustion process more efficiently than it is now, you will not be tempted to try(buy) them.

 

Spark plugs' main duty is to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the chamber at TDC, that's all. If you really wish to have a 'machinegun' efficiency of multi-spark discharge, you should be opting for the MSD Capacitive Discharge Ignition module which amplifies the spark energy + spark timing interval + dwell time frequency.

 

Why bother to spend $176 + GST for plugs which constantly requires replacement?? The NGK iridiums are economically the best plugs around in terms of longevity + reliability The cost on average = $56 to $70 depending on heat range

 

The TXS/YS design is for a slightly different application on certain model cars ie. continental. The LGS design has a better surface contact since its nose is actually longer than your average spark plug. Go measure and compare side by side using the gasket as the base point. The LGS protrudes out by an additional 2.5mm over your regular plug (firing tip). LGS plugs are advised by Brisk to be used on vehicles that already have an UPGRADED ignition system to optimise the plugs' intended performance

 

All in all, no point to use unless you have MSD module or Okada Projects coils or 20v ignition amplifier module.

[Glim]

Quite true. Felt sorry for the local suppliers having to mark up Brisk LGS to $176 when many of us easily got less than $110 including shipping. They should question their supply source than trying to bluff us that overseas LGS are made in China.

 

Hearing your remarks on Brisk suggest that you have not used LGS before and no clue of what it can do. So far only positive feedback from all the brothers who switched to LGS. Mind you many of them were Denso or NGK iridium users and they can tell the improvement. Except for one turbo-engine case here (LGS is for NA) experiencing fluctuating idle, good to hear if any one has encountered problem with Brisk LGS assuming the correct heat range is used.

 

Most current plugs have a common problem of limited spark energy from free-space ionisation and spark obstructed from fuel mix compression front by its earth electrode. To great extent LGS has provided the solution referring to the first post. I suspect there is good chance major plug producers might be looking into such design now. Otherwise, as awareness of such benefit propagates, many mainstream plugs will soon lost their lustre (just like fuel ionisation with carberation vs injection).

 

Actually Brisk LGS only costs $15 more per 10000km compared to $65 Denso Iridium. The improvement from using LGS is clearly better than the $15 extra for synthetic oil or $0.001 more per litre for petrol. If quieter combustion and smoother power can be noticed, it could mean cleaner engine and less engine wear in the long term. Hence, paying $15/10000km as compared to using Denso Iridium is really peanut.

 

Conversely, unusually long electrode life could be due to 3 possibilities. The material used is wearless or the arcing is too mild to cause any wear or both. The first and third possibility are extremely remote since arcing always rip off surface material. Between having very durable plugs and a lesser stressed engine is your choice, perhaps.

Edited April 17, 2008 by Glim

[Smhomie]

I assume you are using DOR15LGS for that price? I also assume your pricing was from a group buy organised earlier?

 

Yes, I am that turbo engine. I have used DOR14LGS, DOR12LGS and DOR11LGS just to experiment and satisfy my curiosity. I'm now back to my Volker Racing Spec II plugs. According to Brisk spec and data sheet for LGS, it is suitable for supercharged, turbocharged and nitrous applications. No luck with it though

 

Yes, the front extends itself deeper into the chamber hence having more contact with the fuel mixture. That is how Brisk claims it is able to ignite the mixture better.

 

Yes, during the plug trials the car drove smoother however I doubt there are any meaningful gains in areas of power. Plugs alone by design do not give power, they help facilitate it.

 

The whole point about my post was about contingent risk when buying from sources other than that of your authorised manufacturer agent. There was no posting about regular plugs being more/less superior than the Brisk plugs. I'm saying a more powerful spark OR a more advanced mechanism would be superior over a certain plug design (whoever the manfacturer may be).

 

Combustion is combustion. Engine wear will still be the same, just a feel good factor since the ignition is smoothed out after using the LGS plugs.

[Maxngck]

hi!

 

my friend oso using Volker Racing Spec II plugs. it seem to have very good comment on it. wonder this plug will suit nissan latio

[Hattee]

"Yes, during the plug trials the car drove smoother however I doubt there are any meaningful gains in areas of power. Plugs alone by design do not give power, they help facilitate it."

QUESTION: So you think there are no dyno(s) done with and without LGS?

 

"The whole point about my post was about contingent risk when buying from sources other than that of your authorised manufacturer agent."

QUESTION: Have you come across anyone got a cracked plug ordered overseas or local of any brands, or it's your imagination?

 

"Combustion is combustion. Engine wear will still be the same, just a feel good factor since the ignition is smoothed out after using the LGS plugs."

QUESTION: Do you mean noise and mechanical wear has no relationship?

[Parallel]

wah vey chim ar....

good stuff to read

[Smhomie]

1) Fresh plugs irregardless of material or design always show a miniscule improvement after changing out from old ones. Dyno results differ from inertia rollers vs hub dynos but the industry accepted deviation stands at 2-3% tolerance. Yes, there are dynos done both shown in Brisk testimonials + youtube. Look it up besides, the gains are mainly at peak rpm ie. 5500-6500rpm, do you always push the pedal to the metal at all times?

 

2) I have cracked plugs for your inspection if you wish to see. You may PM me to meet up if you wish to verify. Both plugs DOR14LGS and DOR12LGS. The DOR12LGS plugs were bought overseas as local do not supply them, the heat range for local range stops at DOR14LGS. There are no 12,11 or 10s for that matter. The cracks were caused by either thermal shock during combustion process or by internal cracks that could not be visibly inspected when new

 

3) All plugs today have a built-in resistor (one way diode) value of typically 5ohms to prevent EMI and RFI within the automotive electrical system. Mechanical wear is inevitable as long as a catalytic propellant agent is used ie. petrol which creates waste hydrocarbons and heat if thats what you mean? Sorry I couldn't correlate what you were trying to ask me, apologies.

 

Hope the above answers some of your questions, cheers

[Smhomie]

Yes, I bought them 2 years ago but have used them intermittently between changes. Basically the design of the head is a racing design open face plug. This would help minimise detonation and discourage carbon deposits on the ground electrode when it is within the plug self clean temp zone ie.500-700c

 

The plug is supposed to last 1,000,000km based on the data specs but so far so good, I have accumulated about 46,000km on these plugs. No problems yet Double iridium tips and machined billet shell. Don't know whether to belive their million km claims or not.... Only time can tell

 

Even if it does just 150,000km on one set instead of the claimed million, I would already consider it the under-rated buy of the century.

[Hattee]

1) Fresh plugs irregardless of material or design always show a miniscule improvement after changing out from old ones. Dyno results differ from inertia rollers vs hub dynos but the industry accepted deviation stands at 2-3% tolerance. Yes, there are dynos done both shown in Brisk testimonials + youtube. Look it up besides, the gains are mainly at peak rpm ie. 5500-6500rpm, do you always push the pedal to the metal at all times?

QUESTION: Care to show us which dyno you saw uses old plugs vs new LGS and only gain at 5500-6500rpm?

 

2) I have cracked plugs for your inspection if you wish to see. You may PM me to meet up if you wish to verify. Both plugs DOR14LGS and DOR12LGS. The DOR12LGS plugs were bought overseas as local do not supply them, the heat range for local range stops at DOR14LGS. There are no 12,11 or 10s for that matter. The cracks were caused by either thermal shock during combustion process or by internal cracks that could not be visibly inspected when new

QUESTION: Do you know any one else has this problem and what was the torque you applied before one of your plugs cracked?

 

3) All plugs today have a built-in resistor (one way diode) value of typically 5ohms to prevent EMI and RFI within the automotive electrical system. Mechanical wear is inevitable as long as a catalytic propellant agent is used ie. petrol which creates waste hydrocarbons and heat if thats what you mean? Sorry I couldn't correlate what you were trying to ask me, apologies.

QUESTION: What do you think the effect of generally noticeable reduction in audible engine acceleration noise using LGS has on engine wear?

[Smhomie]

1) Care to show why you seem to differ from my point and which dyno charts have you seen to confirm the full range gains and how true are they? Readers who are aware of dyno manipulation tricks would know what I'm driving at here Btw, you can google the topic and read the LS1 or SRT-4 forum for user feedback. The comments and charts come from car owners who use honest money to buy Brisk plugs to try. Read their experiences and comments on their NA or FI engines. I have no dynos to show as I am not a commercial promoter for Brisk, hence I do not keep product data

 

2) I do not know anyone else having this issue or at least none has come forward so far (too new in the market perhaps?) My cracks are at the insulator nose area and body near the firing tip, it did not crack and seperate into 2 segments, if thats' what you mean Torque values were procured from Brisk data site for aluminium heads. I can't be torquing it wrongly for 3 times straight right?

 

3) None. Quieter car at high rpm doesn't mean engine life is prolonged. Lexus being so quiet isn't immune to mechanical failures as well right? There are just too many variables involved when describing the scenario mentioned. There will be no end if one really wants to dive into this topic

 

The whole point of my post was to state my user experience, thats' all I had no luck with it. Maybe some folks are benefitting from its superior conductivity based on the medium used. If so and you like it, then by all means continue with its usage

 

There is absolutely no form of motivation for me to promote or condemn Brisk plugs Who knows, maybe a different design like EXTRA TURBO RACING SILVER could have been the solution for me..... but I'm just not about to spend again just to satisfy my curiosity, better for me to move on and try other stuff out there

[Hattee]

Brisk Turbo Racing is what you should use. It is developed in cooperation with leading worldwide companies specializing in modifications and tuning of supercharged and turbocharged engines to reach maximum performance. They are designed to function correctly at cylinder pressures of up to 250kPa. This is a performance product. The replacement interval is 60,000 km. LGS is only designed for NA.

 

There are info on the correct torqueing from the site at USA Brisk. Unfortunately it seems to be blocked. Hopefully not from competitors of Brisk. (A simpler site can be found at http://www.brisksparkplugs.com.au/products/index.shtml Remembering from previous reading, Brisk plugs are more fragile and cannot be over-torqued (exact value gonna check from their recommendation).

 

So far, all the dynos carried out by various communities suggest observable power gain almost across the entire rpm for LGS as compared to another new plugs. Quite an achievement with just spark plugs. You are right the gain will be more when performance spark enhancer and voltage stabilisation are used.

 

As for audible noise, mechanical wear is usually in tandem with the noise level except for sound speakers.

[Smhomie]

Please see the link attached. http://www.briskracing.com/content/lgs.php The LGS is indeed applicable to Turbocharged, Supercharged on modified cars as well as NA cars. You have not done enough research and homework on this design plugs. Btw, the replacement interval is 20,000km for LGS, Brisk Iridium will be at 30,000km. Brisk does not advise changing out the plugs AFTER the recommended interval. Please check other sites besides the usual local, USA or TAbor sites.

 

Yes, just follow recommended torque specs and you will be fine. When in doubt, email Brisk or refer to your car manual for torque values

 

Yes, it seem to suggest the LGS creates more power (or is it a case of recovering the loss power due to previous worn out plugs? we would never know...). LGS tech spec (above link) have advised that an upgraded ignition system should be used to bring out the best in these designed plugs.

 

Brisk (see link) has also stated that if your ignition system is stock factory setup, you should be using the LGS-T which has a closer gap design which is more suitable for stock NA cars or for cars NOT intending to upgrade their ignition systems. I find this to be the more suitable application for local car owners.

 

Oh, thats what you meant. Ok, yes if you do have some mechanical problem, the engine tends to emanate harmonics and resonance that gets louder as rpms increases exponentially. But we also would need to differentiate certain sounds like tappet in the valvetrain, the shim buckets and retainer springs that wear over time and this tend to give the 'taktaktak' noise. Most folks would use a thicker oil to mask this eventually lol

 

Sometimes rpm based noise is engine knock which is far more damaging Be careful, you risk grenading it!

[Abba]

I'll still stick with big 4 tested and proven plug makers; NGK, Denso, Bosch & Champion.

NGK & Denso my favs.

[Smhomie]

Hate to admit it but you're right I'll stick with NGK or Denso too. No experience with B or C though.... so no comments

[Hattee]

I suspect http://www.briskracing.com/content/lgs.php took the info from Brisk USA. Unfortunately it is blocked.

 

"2) Spark plug Intended use: All late model naturally aspirated and mild forced induction applications (colder heat range) and older vehicles with upgraded ignition systems. The Brisk Premium LGS Spark Plug use on modified forced induction applications is limited by the ability of the ignition system to supply adequate power."

 

It only means mild forced induction and even that must be at the colder range. How did you come to conclusion that there is "LGS-T which has a closer gap design which is more suitable for stock NA cars or for cars NOT intending to upgrade their ignition systems." 30000km LGs life is not from me. it is recommended in many sites (guess you should find out). Do you know on our road there are many LGS users running with almost stock?

 

Question until now is anyone else ran into problem with LGS other than you?

[Smhomie]

Well, when you stated LGS was MEANT only for NA, I refuted your point.

 

I have directed you to the site as well as other probable sites but you state that they are blocked from your view. I do not have an issue viewing the pages.

 

For the final time and for the benefit of you and the readers on board (if you have followed my earlier threads), I used DOR14LGS, DOR12LGS and DOR11LGS. The equivalent heat range to IK22 IK24 and IK27. The equivalent of NGK 7 8 and 9. Is this cold engough for a FI engine???? Most NA stock engines are IK16 or IK20. Some stock FI cars come with IK20 as standard fittings.

 

Pt (8) in that page talks about LGS-T and its intended application. I even called BriskUSA and spoke to the distributor to verify its clear use and usefulness in most japanese imports. The advice and feedback came direct through him. If you are not convinced, please call BriskUSA (Houston) to clarify. No point in debating

 

Yes, you are right though, I made a mistake of fact. The LGS plugs are recommended to be changed out on or before 30,000km. However there is no literature on the 60,000km you mentioned. It is surprising to hear from you that silver electrode being soft can last that long... and 250kpa which is about 36psi should not be the upper limit of such a performance plug. Typical Supras and domestics are modified to boost in excess of 44psi (which translate to 14.7psi atmospheric + relative 44psi = 59psi absolute pressure). There are also drag racing + funny cars application that see above 2.5bar within the chamber.

 

Like I said, I'm the only one so far who has voiced out on my own user experience as an individual. No one else has responded to this thread topic except you and me which has so far turned into a "whether-I-was-wrong-or-if-I-was-incompetent-in-both-product-installation-and-knowledge-thats-why-I-have-fractured-plugs" thread. Whats your point really?

 

Isn't the forum place a virtual discussion platform to enhance readers driving experience through sharing observations or is it a breeding ground for argumentative debate on whats good or whats not? or to challenge another forummers' views? I just stated my findings thats all. I did not brag or condemn about the LGS plugs.

 

If you do not agree or are suspicious, its your perogative I have supported my replies with published facts whenever possible. You were already wrong when you mentioned LGS as an application ONLY for NA cars. I had to clarify by posting the link above to readers.

 

Let the readers decide for themselves by reading through the threads so far, searching the web for more info, then correlate this product's applicability to their motoring needs.

 

I will not be replying anymore on this topic. You may conclude that I am not knowledgable at all. Got to read the BORpower miracle to watch its development Seems no one is interested so far or buy into its miraculous properties based on the postings. You are the only supporting proponent so far.