Turbo size..

[Freshmaker]

hey bro thanks... GR is my choice of workshop since i got my car from there been visiting them all the time..

 

td04 has never been my choice at all im asking because a few of my friends are using td04 and im just comparing..

 

gt-ss it is for me as im told..

 

there's an axxxxxe that just cursed me to wrap a tree so im not gonna talk further in this thread... i thank everyone that contributed and help in 1 way or another and appreciate it...

 

cheers ppl...

[S2077s]

woah... great sum up for the turbo bit. I am actually driving the MR-S as well, been toying with the idea of a turbo setup too. But running foul of the local regulations, i am hesitant to really get into it.

 

I am not into the aesthetics and personally i think all widebodies are a little over the top. Besides, you add weight and clumsiness to the original car, than find other ways such as wider wheels and more engine mods to make up for the power lack. But that's just my take, ignore me if u must.

 

Instead of more more and more power. I am contemplating of setting up my car to about 190~200bhp. Preferably conservative boost levels and minimal lag. I feel that the MR-S is a lightweight car and at the current 150bhp which i am using it, high speed stability over bends are somewhat already quite a thriller. When doing 180-190kmh on the straight car is stable no problem, but once u enter a sweeper bend, thats when a heavier car like a BMW or even a Rex or FD2R gains the upper hand with their stock stability. I can only imagine when power levels are still on tap when u enter those speeds, you will need a huge rear wing just to keep things sane.

 

Anyway,i always wonder how people get by with aftermarket TC year after year. You cant be installing and uninstalling every other year for the inspections right?

 

Educate me....

[Furrynadz]

[Forexter]

Your Workshop that does the mods will be able to help you. Perhaps you talk to them before doing. They might charge you a slight premium for the service. Alternatively, demod before sending for inspection.

[Dwoon]

Shhhhhh......

[Forexter]

Should I remove the post? Sensitive hor? Strange,cannot edit or remove. Mods, please help if you guys deem it is inappropriate.

Edited November 4, 2008 by Forexter

[Nazaki]

Yep, they are a good choice.

 

 

Anyway, the car is light, dun need too much power also.

A good 180-220bhp would make the car fly already. lol.

 

 

How abt an engine swap to a VVTL-i engine? Wonder how much does it cost. hehz.

[BMW320i]

Helo Bro....

 

You comparing Apple wif PineApple?!?!?!

 

HKS GT-SS is Fast Response performance turbo capable of upto 500bhp (with appropriate setup).

 

TD04 is a standard MHI turbo..adequate upto 300ps (with appropriate setup).

 

EA

 

500hp YOUR HEAD LAH

 

Feed some proper information before people blow their engines.

 

HKS GTSS with .60 comp, .64 ext housing only rated 320hp at the crank.

 

TD04 rated adequate up to 300PS ? Whose so free to rip the engine out and have horsepower measured at the crank ? Have you used a TD04 and pushed it to its limits ?

 

 

[BMW320i]

bro, first of all, thanks for replying, appreciate it.

 

2ndly, im really clueless when it comes to turbine so pardon me if my questions sounded stupid.

 

i drive an mr-s and am going to turbocharge it with the hks gt-ss. just wondering if between a gt-ss and a td04 which is going to produce bigger power thats all.

 

also, the gt-ss, the gt2510, gt2530, whats the difference? beside the size that is. i presude the gt-ss is small than the 2510 and the 2530 is the biggest among these 3?

 

Personally I think he is just as clueless as you are about turbos.

[BMW320i]

You're welcomed!

 

MR-S stock engine is designed for JDM application (i.e. high compression, for running high octane).

 

As you should know, high compression + Force Induction => Engine Damage

 

Given the simple formula above, unless you are going to upgrade the engine internals, I would propose you run low Boost.

 

Ok..MR-S stock block compression ratio is 10.0 : 1.

 

Being an all aluminium block, we can assume the maximum Final Effective Compression the stock block/pistons can take is 20psi. That's already stretching the engine and we are assuming you pump 98 Octane.

 

Given we do drive to MY, I'll suggest we work with 97 Octane. (Prevent Engine Damage).

 

So working backwards, To stay within the limits, I'll recommend we stick to 18psi (Final compression).

 

To stay below 18 psi (Final Effective Compression), would mean we can only run max 12psi Force Induction. (12 psi = 8.2bar).

 

FYI, GT-SS turbo effective boost is 1.4bar so this would not be practical hence I would propose to run TD04.

 

If you install a good Boost controller (plus good engine tuning), you should be able to run 1.1bar (Scramble boost for abt 7 seconds). Ok scramble boost means, the boost controller will allow turbo spooling to run above normal boost cycle for a specified period (7 secs should not damage your engine). Why 7 secs? Cos' tats more than enuff time to accelerate 0-100km/h!

 

After 7 seconds, the controller would revert to preset Boost Cycle (recommend 0.8bar max, actually for normal driving, 0.7bar would be adequate).

 

Do note that fuelling is important. If I'm not wrong, stock MR-S injectors are 180cc (Top Feed, low impedence [8ohms if I'm not wrong]). These are defintely not enuff if you want more power (even for TD04).

 

You do not need fancyful or huge injectors, 250 to 330 cc ones would be more than enuff (cos you will definitely need a performance Fuel Pressure Regulator). The function of the Fuel Pressure Regulator are

1) Improve stability of Fuel pressure (fuel rail)

2) Increase Pressure (indirectly it improves Injector Duty Cycle)

 

Ok, think I flooding you with too much info oredi....

 

Cheers!

EA

 

 

High compression and forced induction does not = damaged engine. Maybe if it was tuned by you, the engine will ping itself to death.

 

Turbocharging NA engines require you to run on low boost application with proper supporting mods.

 

Your calculations are BULL DUST(aka sh*t). Have you pushed the 1ZZ-FE series engines and found it to blow consistently at 20 psi ?

 

I'm interested in knowing how the hell you can tune or boost an engine to run specifically at 18psi. For f*ck sake tuning 101 involves advancing ignition timing to the point of detonation followed by retarding ignition timing to ensure a safe margin for engine preservation.

 

I think its best you stay home and fry scramble eggs instead.

 

Are you running antilag set up with throttle kicker solenoid to assist 1 bar of boost while car is stationary ? Did you think by pressing scramble boost, you would have 1.1 bar ready on idle ?

 

And also when it comes to fueling. Please for the love of god don't go telling people to upgrade their injectors.

 

HOW DO YOU PROPOSE THAT THE HIGHER CC INJECTORS ARE ABLE TO RUN AT HIGHER IDC WITHOUT A HIGH FLOWING FUEL PUMP TO FEED IT FUEL IN THE FIRST PLACE ???

 

You are flooding too much garbage.

 

Cheers

[Turbonetics]

actually anybody know what is the way to effectively lower the compression of a car???

 

change to a low compression forged piston.

cheaper way is mentioned above,use a thicker head gasket.

[Eavr4]

Think you're too critical on figures and speech....your parents have not taught you well enough as you're too damn rude.

 

Another keyboard hero.....

 

EA

 

* PS I mixed up the HKS turbos, you're right HKS GT-SS is rated 320bhp.

* For a reliable setup, lots of arts and components need to co-ordinate and compliment each other.

* The purpose of a forum is to pull information and knowledge, not for flamming....

Edited November 4, 2008 by Eavr4

[Mustank]

i know nuts about how cars work so everyone pls be patient with me....

 

i drive a musso pickup

 

it comes with turbo and intercooler

 

ok i don know what turbo

 

how many pressure

 

all that stuff

 

i read about variable turbo from how stuffs work

 

only thing i catch is it works in low speed and high speed

 

i don need high speed

 

the musso can deliver more than what i ask for

 

but moving off is not good

 

can variable turbo help fix the responsiveness from 0-30?

 

how much one ah?

[Achtung]

Somehow, I agree with you on most things you said... esp the injectors part. Many MRS have gone the wrong route and did nothing to their fuel pump, something that they should have done right from the onset.

 

You are direct bro, and is entitled to your view.

[Turbine]

Ownage!

[BMW320i]

Your parents obviously have not thought you how to shut your mouth when you don't know what to say and not act like a pro in the forum and start giving advices to people who don't have a clue like yourself.

 

When you finally have competed in enough Timed Events, Rallys, Hill Climbs and have done some mechanical work yourself than come back here and start from square one.

 

I think we can only conclude that the only keyboard hero is yourself. Stop compensating your unpalatable excuses for your shortfall in knowledge.

 

You can quote the engine compression ratios but not get the recommended power output of a HKS GT-SS turbo right. No point in correcting yourself now because even the rest of your information are garbage. Suffice to say your entire advice is full of crap.

 

The purpose of the forum is for others to obtain and contribute knowledge.

 

Not obtain and contribute Bullsh*t. If you are going to contribute Bullsh*t, its best you keep your advice to yourself because if anyone seriously contemplating on obtaining your advice will have a likelihood of blowing something.

 

[BMW320i]

I am direct to people who has 0 experience but intend on coming into the forum and act like Chief Mechanic for Ferrari F1.

 

I am more compassionate towards those who has done some research of their own but wishes to confirm their findings by asking on the forum.

 

That is not to say I am a Chief Mechanic myself but anyone with a certain amount of hands on in motorsports will be able to tell you the kind of rubbish he is writing.

 

Back on the topic, the factory fuel pump has never been designed to run with aftermarket injectors simply because during designing stage, all the fuel pump requires is the added level of safety margin in case the AF ratio had been altered and detected by MAF in some way and the ECU compensates by increasing the IDC to preventing the engine from running lean.

 

Hence by telling someone to change to a bigger size injectors is to say lets change to a bigger spray nozzle but retain the fuel pump. Whats the use of changing to a bigger nozzle if you the fuel pump is unable pump fuel at high flow in order to feed the injectors to begin with ?

[BMW320i]

Hell yays.

 

By the way, you running a V8 WRX ?