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Lag in throttle response (cable link)


Heartbreakid
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Have search posts but couldn't find any related topics on my queries hence decided to post a new one.

 

Currently am driving a 220k km WIRA 1.3, from 1996, which majority of the components are from Mitsubishi. Recently have encountered an intermittent problem. The issue is related to the throttle response. Let me describe further below, and hopes anyone who encountered this issue can advised me.

 

Sometimes during light acceleration, when stepping on the accelerator, there is no response (ie doesn't feel power at all), then seconds later, the response came back, and it is like a sudden kick in of the acceleration. Not due to air-conditioning. There were times when maintaining constant accelerator pressure, the acceleration suddenly kicks back and then resume again (something like a newbie disengage the clutch abruptly). Then at times it can be driven smoothly with light accelerator depressing pressure.

 

I have encountered this issue with an EG civic before, but the car was scrapped soon after. I am not sure if this is an issue with high mileage car. But this issue can be really a pain when driving the car in slow traffic because the acceleration isn't smooth at all...

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Have search posts but couldn't find any related topics on my queries hence decided to post a new one.

 

Currently am driving a 220k km WIRA 1.3, from 1996, which majority of the components are from Mitsubishi. Recently have encountered an intermittent problem. The issue is related to the throttle response. Let me describe further below, and hopes anyone who encountered this issue can advised me.

 

Sometimes during light acceleration, when stepping on the accelerator, there is no response (ie doesn't feel power at all), then seconds later, the response came back, and it is like a sudden kick in of the acceleration. Not due to air-conditioning. There were times when maintaining constant accelerator pressure, the acceleration suddenly kicks back and then resume again (something like a newbie disengage the clutch abruptly). Then at times it can be driven smoothly with light accelerator depressing pressure.

 

I have encountered this issue with an EG civic before, but the car was scrapped soon after. I am not sure if this is an issue with high mileage car. But this issue can be really a pain when driving the car in slow traffic because the acceleration isn't smooth at all...

 

Start simple. Check it the cable is taut, and also check if the cable cover has worn off anywhere and the cable s catching on something.

 

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Start simple. Check it the cable is taut, and also check if the cable cover has worn off anywhere and the cable s catching on something.

 

spray wd40 on the cable.

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There is three areas to check

a) make sure the throttle cable is in good working condition , no rust, or loose end. Inspect throttle butterfly valve for poor mechnical movements - lub if necessary.

b) Get yr mech to check fuel pressure and flow. If you have not replace the fuel filter for a long time , start replacing and monitor engine performance.

c) Check ignition coils, spark plugs and cable for loose connections. Spark plug cables ( carbon type)more than two yrs normally will have higher electrical flow resistance due to high engine bay heat and sometime due to poor handling during spark plug replacements, the carbon fibre is damaged and result in intermittent open circuit.

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Then at times it can be driven smoothly with light accelerator depressing pressure.

 

But this issue can be really a pain when driving the car in slow traffic because the acceleration isn't smooth at all...

 

From what you had described, it's not likely the cable is at fault. If your throttle cable is loose in anyway, you can't even drive it smoothly with a light foot. I think your fuel injectors are clogged with carbon deposits for your high mileage car. I dunno if higher octane will solve the problem but it's advisable to have them cleaned(I dunno if any workshop does it) or have them changed.

 

For such high mileage car it's also advisable to overhaul the engine and have the valves and combustion chambers clean of carbon deposits.

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Supercharged

sorry to hijack this thread..

 

i face the same issue but not as bad, everything was good, the only issue is the speedo which was faulty.

sending it to the workshop since it was covered.

the fun part is when the speedo hit back, the whole car feel a sense of power - surge.

 

kinda fun but i don't sure if this is norm..

 

any idea what could went wrong

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Thanks for all suggestions and reply. In the end, I managed to find out the real cause behind. It is the servo motor. Not sure about other cars. But earlier batches of WIRAs engine are exactly the same with Lancer. Under the throttle body, there is a servo kit, which adjusts a solenoid accordingly, to air compressor kicks in, idling and amount of throttle opening. So far, it has seems been replaced and issue solved.

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Neutral Newbie

Thanks for all suggestions and reply. In the end, I managed to find out the real cause behind. It is the servo motor. Not sure about other cars. But earlier batches of WIRAs engine are exactly the same with Lancer. Under the throttle body, there is a servo kit, which adjusts a solenoid accordingly, to air compressor kicks in, idling and amount of throttle opening. So far, it has seems been replaced and issue solved.

 

hmmm sounds like my problem too.. can share where u solve this problem? thanks

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You are driving a Lancer, the model similar to WIRA it seems. I got it repaired in Malaysia. I think less than RM50, along with throttle body cleaning and a new servo kit. Subsequently, whenever I face idling issues, such that when aircon kicks in, rpm is very low (500rpm) like engine dying off but when aircon kicks out, rpm hovering around 1500rpm, I know it is the servo kit that is causing the problem. Got it service and ran well for about a year then problem came back. But didn't sent for servicing, I DIY the issue, sort of lasting me around 6 to 8 months. Cant be help lah, old car cant expect much.

 

Fortunately, the motor which operates the solenoid still running, otherwise, the entire throttle body got to be replaced. Hope my information helps.

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Neutral Newbie

sure its a great help!!! thanks..

share another problem i had, when on aircon and idling.. my rpm will go up and down.. damn irritating

issit possible to get our regular jb workshop to change the servo kit?

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Yes, I do experience the 'jumping' of rpm too. But it's without switching on the aircon. The symptoms is like the engine will light rev itself during idling. And for my case, it is due to the servo kit also. So far, many incidents involved with the servo kit, one of the severe one I encountered was, the engine failed to start up, because of the type of grease I used which causes the solenoid to jam, hence no air was allowed to enter the engine unless one open up the throttle valve, but after closing the throttle valve, the engine die. Well, I think for high mileage, Lancer or Wira, the servo kit sure is one that will sure obvious signs of wear and tear.

 

I strongly believe regular jb workshop should have the servo kit as their proton parts are widely available, should check them out. I got the servo kit changed at a caltex service station in jb (sorry but I can't remember the name of the road). The servo kit should consists of some plastic gears and a steel magnetic gear.

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Neutral Newbie

ooooo den correct liao.. should be the servo kit

i think i go to my regular workshop and ask them to change it for me... not many caltex in jb got workshop so can roughly guess which one.. so any further problem from ur wira? haha got convert to evo3 or not?

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The caltex workshop is a basement one, it is along a stretch where there is a Toyota showroom and some other petrol kiosks. It's just around 5 mins drive after the Malaysia custom. So far, still got minor issues with it lah, but sort of got use to it. So everytime just DIY repair it. Evo 3 engine? Got the thought of it, but every year got to go inspection, troublesome... Somemore, rarely drive the car also. HAha... Was thinking of changing car, but don't bare to part with it because the interior parts still as good as new even though 13.5 years already.

 

But recently, the engine bay just bleed engine oil, couldn't find the cause of it, no sign of engine oil shortage (strange). So just drive until engine gave way then get a new car. Haha

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Neutral Newbie

hmmm bleed engine oil ah? could be the oil pressure switch or not? old car is like tat lo.. its gonna take me awhile to rebuild the whole car.. progress abit slow now.. hahaha with a new engine, the car can easier go a few more yrs.. considering to renew COE too

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Neutral Newbie

anyone know about what throttle controller proton persona use? =D

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