LIQUI MOLY ENGINE FLUSH?

[Nmnhnlm]

i think i better understand about flushing now thanks...

 

now i got a question hope its not stupid...

 

now so many ppl flush their engines... cause so many shops have it... so many mechs say its good to clean ur engine... get rid of the carbon-says the flush manufacturers....

 

i have seen a piston that just got taken right out of a car... i saw that it was pretty black, unlike those shiny new ones you see in glass displays... belonged to a VTI.... i poured abit of petrol and rubbed... the black colour didnt move one bit... its like bonded to the pistons...

 

so lets say the flushes really are able to get rid of the carbon... so i guess that if i pour some engine flush into the petrol tank... and drive it at high revs (not low revs, maybe @ NS highway)... shouldnt it then clean the upper cylinders as well? might give the plugs a good cleaning session....

 

does this make sense? pls dont say try then u know... cause i wanna see if someone has done it before and if i make sense...

 

Its actually quite useless to clean away the carbon deposits cause it will go right back after a very short time. Anyway, you need those carbon deposits. If your pistons are clean w/o any soot, that means you are running way too lean and your engine will detonate to death.....

[Ken4555]

Its actually quite useless to clean away the carbon deposits cause it will go right back after a very short time. Anyway, you need those carbon deposits. If your pistons are clean w/o any soot, that means you are running way too lean and your engine will detonate to death.....

 

my goodness.... detonate to death????? now i'm totally lost........

[Zyrofillica]

lean means each cycle boomz too early. means bent conrods, cracked piston heads, damaged valves in the long run.

[Yuan]

i think i better understand about flushing now thanks...

 

now i got a question hope its not stupid...

 

now so many ppl flush their engines... cause so many shops have it... so many mechs say its good to clean ur engine... get rid of the carbon-says the flush manufacturers....

 

i have seen a piston that just got taken right out of a car... i saw that it was pretty black, unlike those shiny new ones you see in glass displays... belonged to a VTI.... i poured abit of petrol and rubbed... the black colour didnt move one bit... its like bonded to the pistons...

 

so lets say the flushes really are able to get rid of the carbon... so i guess that if i pour some engine flush into the petrol tank... and drive it at high revs (not low revs, maybe @ NS highway)... shouldnt it then clean the upper cylinders as well? might give the plugs a good cleaning session....

 

does this make sense? pls dont say try then u know... cause i wanna see if someone has done it before and if i make sense...

 

Mechanics in workshops who say it is good to flush to clean your engine have vested interest in earning your money. You have to take it with a pinch of salt. Having said that, not all mechanics are like that.

[Yuan]

Its actually quite useless to clean away the carbon deposits cause it will go right back after a very short time. Anyway, you need those carbon deposits. If your pistons are clean w/o any soot, that means you are running way too lean and your engine will detonate to death.....

 

The concept/theory is the same for why engine oil turns its colour or air filter being dirty after clocking some mileage.

[Yuan]

my goodness.... detonate to death????? now i'm totally lost........

 

Go and do it lah....I can see that your face is green and you might be waiting for someone to tell you that it is alright to use the engine flush....

[Ken4555]

lean means each cycle boomz too early. means bent conrods, cracked piston heads, damaged valves in the long run.

 

so too lean... boomz to death...

 

too rich... carbon blackens...

 

so manufacturers usually rich setting correct?...

[Nmnhnlm]

so too lean... boomz to death...

 

too rich... carbon blackens...

 

so manufacturers usually rich setting correct?...

 

It depends on driving condition.

 

Eg. Engine cold start up, it will run rich.

 

Highway cruising under light load may run lean (depends on ECU). This means higher than the stoichiometric ratio.

 

Heavy load WOT will run rich.

 

Turbo engine usually run rich ~13:1 for safety.

Edited January 26, 2010 by Nmnhnlm

[Ken4555]

bro i'm beginning to feel that you are a mech... so knowledgeble....

 

great... can i ask where would you recommend a turbo kit to be installed in my baby skyline wanna be?

 

friends say JB is a better choice cause cheaper alot and many mech there know the sentra better than mech in SG know the sunny... is this true?

[Tigershark1976]

i think i better understand about flushing now thanks...

 

now i got a question hope its not stupid...

 

now so many ppl flush their engines... cause so many shops have it... so many mechs say its good to clean ur engine... get rid of the carbon-says the flush manufacturers....

 

i have seen a piston that just got taken right out of a car... i saw that it was pretty black, unlike those shiny new ones you see in glass displays... belonged to a VTI.... i poured abit of petrol and rubbed... the black colour didnt move one bit... its like bonded to the pistons...

 

so lets say the flushes really are able to get rid of the carbon... so i guess that if i pour some engine flush into the petrol tank... and drive it at high revs (not low revs, maybe @ NS highway)... shouldnt it then clean the upper cylinders as well? might give the plugs a good cleaning session....

 

does this make sense? pls dont say try then u know... cause i wanna see if someone has done it before and if i make sense...

 

 

i wouldnt take such risk, whether it cleans up the upper piston or not, thats one thing... by doing that, u may risk your fuel injection and cat convertor.

[Ken4555]

i wouldnt take such risk, whether it cleans up the upper piston or not, thats one thing... by doing that, u may risk your fuel injection and cat convertor.

 

 

oh... i dont hv a cat... so no problem... but you're right... the fuel injectors... many years back on my COE honda (PGM-F1 fuel injction)... i once sprayed 'injector cleaner' or 'air intake cleaner' into the part where you have the open pod air filter... i took out the pipping and sprayed in it... engine was dying, splattering.... i used my hand to rev the engine (cable throttle) and soooooooo much white smoke came out of the exhaust.... i 'thought' it felt lke i was cleaning hte combustion chambers... so i finished the whole can... it was some jap brand i bought from auto bacs.... i rev the engine somemore and it felt real good.. BUT THE RPM STUCK AT 1500rpm... used to be like rd 800 before the session.... sob sob....

 

but funny thing is... at 1500rpm... then with my air-con on its nicely at 1000rpm... in the past my car would be vibrating with the air-con on... you know old cars....

 

after driving for like 2 weeks then back to normal again... never touched another can again... so bro this is ignition problem? timing run? could be injectors problem? i'm confused with 'ignition timing off' and 'injectors dirty'.... anyways doesnt really matter i cant fix either problem...

 

anyways car has been scrapped since... present car will leave it to the experts...

[Tigershark1976]

oh... i dont hv a cat... so no problem... but you're right... the fuel injectors... many years back on my COE honda (PGM-F1 fuel injction)... i once sprayed 'injector cleaner' or 'air intake cleaner' into the part where you have the open pod air filter... i took out the pipping and sprayed in it... engine was dying, splattering.... i used my hand to rev the engine (cable throttle) and soooooooo much white smoke came out of the exhaust.... i 'thought' it felt lke i was cleaning hte combustion chambers... so i finished the whole can... it was some jap brand i bought from auto bacs.... i rev the engine somemore and it felt real good.. BUT THE RPM STUCK AT 1500rpm... used to be like rd 800 before the session.... sob sob....

 

but funny thing is... at 1500rpm... then with my air-con on its nicely at 1000rpm... in the past my car would be vibrating with the air-con on... you know old cars....

 

after driving for like 2 weeks then back to normal again... never touched another can again... so bro this is ignition problem? timing run? could be injectors problem? i'm confused with 'ignition timing off' and 'injectors dirty'.... anyways doesnt really matter i cant fix either problem...

 

anyways car has been scrapped since... present car will leave it to the experts...

 

 

haha... your reply really damn funny..u r rite, new car better dun play play, especially testing new stuff.... otherwise, may void the warranty.

 

but simple DIY like changing brake/engine/power steering oil, change spark plug still can do DIY. so long doing it in a proper way.

 

dun know whether u came across any discussion on the mothball, many people claims that mixing mothball with petrol can improve this and that and I was stupid enof to try when i 1st own a car... lukily nothing happen.... other wise, i may need to change the fuel filter/ cleaning the whole fuel tank/ changing the choked injection....

Edited January 26, 2010 by Tigershark1976

[Ken4555]

haha... your reply really damn funny..u r rite, new car better dun play play, especially testing new stuff.... otherwise, may void the warranty.

 

but simple DIY like changing brake/engine/power steering oil, change spark plug still can do DIY. so long doing it in a proper way.

 

dun know whether u came across any discussion on the mothball, many people claims that mixing mothball with petrol can improve this and that and I was stupid enof to try when i 1st own a car... lukily nothing happen.... other wise, i may need to change the fuel filter/ cleaning the whole fuel tank/ changing the choked injection....

 

wahahaha... MOTHBALLS??????????????? no offense but WTF?.... now that you have given me the idea.... hmmmm... wat brand you recomend?.... maybe i shall try a couple of balls.... on a rented car.... waahahah.... i shall go wiki mothballs later... hahaha...

 

i have never changed steering/brake oil before... only top up.. on my previous car, i changed my muffler and center muffler myself when i am due for inspction, just invested in a tube of silicon gasket. (i got fong kim to make my exhaust mufflers connect with bolts) ... save $ instead of going to them every inspection... but engine oil i like to do it myself... so the workshop i go to... i usually try to be the 1st customer... he drains my oil, changes my filter... and then leaves me alone.... i do the rest... feels better when i tighten the nut myself, and slowly check for leaks... feel the arms check loose anot... give the undercarriage abit of cleaning/checking... also with get the stupid small stones stuck in my tyres off... actually i would do everything myself... if i could jack my car all the way up with a machine at hm... haha...

 

btw check with you... i heard batteries (which need to top up water) can last longer then the maintanence free batteries... is tis true or still largely dependent on brand?.... my batt is now over a year.... actually i only clocked like 12000km on the batt... still feels good... volt meter reads very healthy batt... but because i have those pivot stuff installed... but i also heard that these 'earthing' volt booster watever will maximise the potential of your batt till the very last breath... which means yor batt might just die one fine day without warning... do you know if this is true?

[Tigershark1976]

wahahaha... MOTHBALLS??????????????? no offense but WTF?.... now that you have given me the idea.... hmmmm... wat brand you recomend?.... maybe i shall try a couple of balls.... on a rented car.... waahahah.... i shall go wiki mothballs later... hahaha...

 

i have never changed steering/brake oil before... only top up.. on my previous car, i changed my muffler and center muffler myself when i am due for inspction, just invested in a tube of silicon gasket. (i got fong kim to make my exhaust mufflers connect with bolts) ... save $ instead of going to them every inspection... but engine oil i like to do it myself... so the workshop i go to... i usually try to be the 1st customer... he drains my oil, changes my filter... and then leaves me alone.... i do the rest... feels better when i tighten the nut myself, and slowly check for leaks... feel the arms check loose anot... give the undercarriage abit of cleaning/checking... also with get the stupid small stones stuck in my tyres off... actually i would do everything myself... if i could jack my car all the way up with a machine at hm... haha...

 

btw check with you... i heard batteries (which need to top up water) can last longer then the maintanence free batteries... is tis true or still largely dependent on brand?.... my batt is now over a year.... actually i only clocked like 12000km on the batt... still feels good... volt meter reads very healthy batt... but because i have those pivot stuff installed... but i also heard that these 'earthing' volt booster watever will maximise the potential of your batt till the very last breath... which means yor batt might just die one fine day without warning... do you know if this is true?

 

 

i jus knew... you will laugh like hell on the mothball thingy ......

 

for batt, thats what i frm many people also, but frm my personal experience, its all depends on the batt itself. One of the long lasting batt that ive tried was amaron maintainance free batt. used it in my elantra for 2 yrs, then pass to my bro in law when i scrap my car cos his batt was bloated.he use it for another 3 yrs if i remember correctly, was still gg strong when he sold his ride...

 

for the earthing u mentioned, thats what people call grounding. some people swear by it, while the others dun feel any diff on it. The stabiliser is suppose to stabilise the current, usually stabiliser comes with grounding cable. In theory, it will benefit you electrical component as the supply of current smoothen by the capasitor in the stabiliser. you can actually DIY such devise yourself by getting a few capacitor and a PCB board......

 

with or without the stabiliser, there is some sign when your batt is dying...eg, at night, you may notice that your headlight brighness will fluctuate when the car is stop...

 

If you want to make your batt last longer, you should try batt de-sulfator. think there was a discussion on this forum. its suppose to make your batt last longer. i have never tried it b4 but there are some members here have positive feedback on such device.

[Ken4555]

hey bro... 5years for a batt... i am using Ameron or smthing now also... green in colour bought from AA...

 

by the way.... i read this article from wiki...

 

Older mothballs consisted primarily of naphthalene, but due to naphthalene's flammability, modern mothballs use 1,4-dichlorobenzene instead. Both of these ingredients have a strong, pungent odor often associated strongly with mothballs.

 

Mothballs have also been used for a number of other purposes, such as a stovepipe cleaner, snake repellent, or to keep away silverfish, mice or other pests.

 

To clean the pipes of a wood burning stove, one or two mothballs thrown into the fire will help to loosen soot and creosote.[citation needed]

 

The main concern about the use of mothballs as a snake, mice, or animal repellent is their easy access to children, pets, and beneficial animals. Leaving them in a garden or in a living space unprotected makes it very easy for unintended victims such as children and pets to gain access to them. Mothballs are highly toxic when ingested, causing serious illness or death. In addition to this, using a very large quantity of mothballs in a basement or a living space may cause serious respiratory problems in people living in the space. [1]

 

It has also been suggested that the toxic chemical in mothballs will bond to garden soil, causing damage to it. Research has shown that a weak bond can occur, but naturally occurring soil microbes will break down the toxic component of mothballs over extended periods of time. In addition to this, the toxic effects of mothballs may also kill beneficial soil insects while it is present in soil. [2]

 

Mothballs have been used for solvent abuse by adolescents.[3][4] Mothballs have also been found to be a carcinogen[5].

 

In the Mythbusters episode "Scuba Diver, Car Capers" it was shown to be "plausible" that adding mothballs to a car's fuel tank would increase its horsepower.

 

 

YOU WERE RIGHT................. hahahaha.... now we can get cheap fuel boosters in NTUC or mamashop... think we should actually do a DYNO test man.....

[Tigershark1976]

hey bro... 5years for a batt... i am using Ameron or smthing now also... green in colour bought from AA...

 

by the way.... i read this article from wiki...

 

Older mothballs consisted primarily of naphthalene, but due to naphthalene's flammability, modern mothballs use 1,4-dichlorobenzene instead. Both of these ingredients have a strong, pungent odor often associated strongly with mothballs.

 

Mothballs have also been used for a number of other purposes, such as a stovepipe cleaner, snake repellent, or to keep away silverfish, mice or other pests.

 

To clean the pipes of a wood burning stove, one or two mothballs thrown into the fire will help to loosen soot and creosote.[citation needed]

 

The main concern about the use of mothballs as a snake, mice, or animal repellent is their easy access to children, pets, and beneficial animals. Leaving them in a garden or in a living space unprotected makes it very easy for unintended victims such as children and pets to gain access to them. Mothballs are highly toxic when ingested, causing serious illness or death. In addition to this, using a very large quantity of mothballs in a basement or a living space may cause serious respiratory problems in people living in the space. [1]

 

It has also been suggested that the toxic chemical in mothballs will bond to garden soil, causing damage to it. Research has shown that a weak bond can occur, but naturally occurring soil microbes will break down the toxic component of mothballs over extended periods of time. In addition to this, the toxic effects of mothballs may also kill beneficial soil insects while it is present in soil. [2]

 

Mothballs have been used for solvent abuse by adolescents.[3][4] Mothballs have also been found to be a carcinogen[5].

 

In the Mythbusters episode "Scuba Diver, Car Capers" it was shown to be "plausible" that adding mothballs to a car's fuel tank would increase its horsepower.

 

 

YOU WERE RIGHT................. hahahaha.... now we can get cheap fuel boosters in NTUC or mamashop... think we should actually do a DYNO test man.....

 

 

yap, i remember the mothball i use is consist 99.9% of naphthalene. But seriously, can feel any diff after i add leh... maybe the gain is so marginal and by butt is not sensetive enof to feel it.

[Ken4555]

yap, i remember the mothball i use is consist 99.9% of naphthalene. But seriously, can feel any diff after i add leh... maybe the gain is so marginal and by butt is not sensetive enof to feel it.

 

you mean cant feel? anywyas i wanna try on my company suzuki van later.... maybe i'll drop a few balls... which brand should i go for... i'll do a 0-70km/h timing before and after... mybe use the garmin nuvi reset everything and try... haha....

[Tigershark1976]

you mean cant feel? anywyas i wanna try on my company suzuki van later.... maybe i'll drop a few balls... which brand should i go for... i'll do a 0-70km/h timing before and after... mybe use the garmin nuvi reset everything and try... haha....

 

 

dont drop in the mothball to the oil tank directly!!! u need to use a bottle to mix the mothball with petrol 1st b4 pouring into the tank. otherwise, the mothball may choked the oil filter!