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Grounding VS Voltage stabalizing


Roger78
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Pricing for a set would be around S$100-S$200. Upgrading the front set, in my opinion, would be good enough.

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Any recommendations or suggestions?

 

I really dont know what to get.

 

I just want to avoid being cheated by those ICE shops.

 

Most important dont want to end up with China made speakers. [shakehead]

 

I guess getting Sony speakers sud b safe? What u recommend for an upgrade?

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I tried there last month at the shop in the basement that sells car stuff but they said they dont have anymore.

 

I even tried several hardware shops which used to have it & all said "no more"????

 

I think all were bought up by those shops who sell "special" grounding cables. [:(]

 

Anyway I already managed to get from a hardware shop at Larkin JB. Cost abt same at RM0.40 ea.

 

 

Ic. Tat means i went earlier than u. But where in jb? I tink the hardware shop in ubi(the blk of flats) also have. Tat shop is like a mother of all hardware shops. Hehehehe....

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Ic. Tat means i went earlier than u. But where in jb? I tink the hardware shop in ubi(the blk of flats) also have. Tat shop is like a mother of all hardware shops. Hehehehe....

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JB at larkin bus interchange. Also had my shoes heel replaced for only RM14/pair. Damm cheap lah.

 

SG cobbler some say cannot do & some want to charge $30/pr to change heel only cos my shoes were heel & sole all in 1 piece of moulded rubber.

 

The Larkin cobbler do very swee & it feels like new now. RM14 is only abt S$5. Cant believe cos the shoes r Scholl. Now can use another few years. [grin]

 

The lugs I tried several hardware shops all over but funny that they dont seem to have anymore.

 

Anyway I already solved problem & did my grounding last month.

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Any recommendations or suggestions?

 

I really dont know what to get.

 

I just want to avoid being cheated by those ICE shops.

 

Most important dont want to end up with China made speakers. [shakehead]

 

I guess getting Sony speakers sud b safe? What u recommend for an upgrade?

 

Entry level speakers are those of Lanzar and Helix Blue.

 

I am not sure about Sony speakers though.

 

ICE shops can go but must go with people who know the ICE shop people...Otherwise, sure kena... [knife]

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Entry level speakers are those of Lanzar and Helix Blue.

 

I am not sure about Sony speakers though.

 

ICE shops can go but must go with people who know the ICE shop people...Otherwise, sure kena... [knife]

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Thats why I have not gone yet. I know most ICE shops r very good at [knife] pple. Especially those with not much knowledge.

 

Anyway its not important cos I just listen to Hi-Fi as background music & I not too fussy like must blast the music for the whole estate to hear me coming like some crazy pple.

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For those who think your car is not properly grounded, go get a workshop manual for your car and start counting.

Mine has 20 ground points throughout the car.

Just bcoz you don't see it, doesn't mean it's not there.

 

Every electrical device needs a ground and the ground used is the car chassis. It's about as good as it can get.

 

Adding a few more colourful ground wires is not going to improve anything except maybe the looks.

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For those who think your car is not properly grounded, go get a workshop manual for your car and start counting.

Mine has 20 ground points throughout the car.

Just bcoz you don't see it, doesn't mean it's not there.

 

Every electrical device needs a ground and the ground used is the car chassis. It's about as good as it can get.

 

Adding a few more colourful ground wires is not going to improve anything except maybe the looks.

 

A person who knows his stuff [thumbsup] and not swayed by popular beliefs and hearsay.

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For those who think your car is not properly grounded, go get a workshop manual for your car and start counting.

Mine has 20 ground points throughout the car.

Just bcoz you don't see it, doesn't mean it's not there.

 

Every electrical device needs a ground and the ground used is the car chassis. It's about as good as it can get.

 

Adding a few more colourful ground wires is not going to improve anything except maybe the looks.

 

That is very correct. [thumbsup]

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For those who think your car is not properly grounded, go get a workshop manual for your car and start counting.

Mine has 20 ground points throughout the car.

Just bcoz you don't see it, doesn't mean it's not there.

 

Every electrical device needs a ground and the ground used is the car chassis. It's about as good as it can get.

 

Adding a few more colourful ground wires is not going to improve anything except maybe the looks.

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But I can actually see & feel a difference after doing some grounding on my previous & present car?

 

Maybe cos I ground direct to the (-) battery terminal instead of the chassis. A more direct & shorter distance for the circuit to travel cud mean a cleaner ground.

 

Even last time my car. I ground the alternator body & used to get the battery warning light flicker on sometimes. Never knew why till I found the ground wire was loose. After tightening the contact, the light never came on again.

 

This already goes to prove that the grounding has an effect.

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Thats why I have not gone yet. I know most ICE shops r very good at [knife] pple. Especially those with not much knowledge.

 

Anyway its not important cos I just listen to Hi-Fi as background music & I not too fussy like must blast the music for the whole estate to hear me coming like some crazy pple.

 

I listen to Christian songs and music every morning in my car and so wanted some improvements to the quality of my music.

 

My setup is very basic and simple.

 

And I don't have a VS....It has not proven to me and justified that its presence has improved my ICE.

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===============

 

But I can actually see & feel a difference after doing some grounding on my previous & present car?

 

Maybe cos I ground direct to the (-) battery terminal instead of the chassis. A more direct & shorter distance for the circuit to travel cud mean a cleaner ground.

 

Even last time my car. I ground the alternator body & used to get the battery warning light flicker on sometimes. Never knew why till I found the ground wire was loose. After tightening the contact, the light never came on again.

 

This already goes to prove that the grounding has an effect.

Unless your OE ground is bad, like a corroded point, then fixing another ground at the right place may seem to make a difference.

 

My car doesn't have anymore "extra" groundings and it felt no difference at all.

 

Only when I started digging into the car electrical harness, ground points, etc, did I realized all those extra groundings are useless.

 

By the way, if you install a amp, the instructions will tell you to put a ground wire as short as possible to the nearest clean chassis point. They don't tell you to wire all the way back to the battery negative terminal.

 

If you have battery flicker light, the OE ground may just be flimsy or going bad. They are just crimped together in bunches of wires and bolted to the chassis. For those under the engine compartment, it can be subjected to harsh conditions, rust or corrode.

 

One time I forgot to tighten a ground bolt and things start to act funny, like left signal light getting stuck, while right signal light is working.

 

If things are working well, your ground wires are good. If they are not working, you would get funny things that don't work. Extra grounding doesn't make things better.

 

 

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I listen to Christian songs and music every morning in my car and so wanted some improvements to the quality of my music.

 

My setup is very basic and simple.

 

And I don't have a VS....It has not proven to me and justified that its presence has improved my ICE.

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For me the radio is to keep me company when I am driving alone. Just that the original sound seems to lack some nice bass only.

 

I can live without it but it wud b nice to have. Just like a pretty mistress. [gorgeous]

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Unless your OE ground is bad, like a corroded point, then fixing another ground at the right place may seem to make a difference.

 

My car doesn't have anymore "extra" groundings and it felt no difference at all.

 

Only when I started digging into the car electrical harness, ground points, etc, did I realized all those extra groundings are useless.

 

By the way, if you install a amp, the instructions will tell you to put a ground wire as short as possible to the nearest clean chassis point. They don't tell you to wire all the way back to the battery negative terminal.

 

If you have battery flicker light, the OE ground may just be flimsy or going bad. They are just crimped together in bunches of wires and bolted to the chassis. For those under the engine compartment, it can be subjected to harsh conditions, rust or corrode.

 

One time I forgot to tighten a ground bolt and things start to act funny, like left signal light getting stuck, while right signal light is working.

 

If things are working well, your ground wires are good. If they are not working, you would get funny things that don't work. Extra grounding doesn't make things better.

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I guess the direct grounding to the (-) battery terminal is a shorter & cleaner route & gives a better connection which in turn gives better performance of the electrical item.

 

That is the propose of grounding in the 1st place. Grounding tru the chassis & body might have a lot of interference which cannot give such a clean route for the electricity to travel.

 

 

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===========

 

I guess the direct grounding to the (-) battery terminal is a shorter & cleaner route & gives a better connection which in turn gives better performance of the electrical item.

 

That is the propose of grounding in the 1st place. Grounding tru the chassis & body might have a lot of interference which cannot give such a clean route for the electricity to travel.

 

I think that's a misconception. Electrons travel at the speed of light.

Putting a ground point at the end of the car is not going to make much difference than putting it at the battery negative terminal.

 

Electrical interference? It may be induced on long runs of wires or chassis, but they are radio freq noise, easily removed by capacitors at the input of most rf sensitive device.

 

As long as the ground point is clean, it is not going to make any perceptible difference for most people.

 

However, I don't doubt that putting extra ground wires, just make people feel good.

 

 

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I think that's a misconception. Electrons travel at the speed of light.

 

Thats wrong bro. Electrons do NOT travel anywhere near speed of light. Just google and you can find the equation for speed of electrons in a wire. Its painfully slow......

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My personal experience with Grounding and Voltage Stabiliser (Pivot Blue) is quite interesting and revealing.

 

My ride (06 Kia Picanto) was done up with 8-point grounding. Despite that, there was a discern-able electrical buzzing noise coming from the engine. The same noise can also be heard in the cabin through the loudspeakers. The noise appeared when I turned the key to Batt.

 

When I installed the VS, the noise was dramatically reduced, to the point that I need to put my ear very close to the engine in order to hear the buzz, and even then it was very soft. Obviously, there is no noise in the cabin via the loudspeakers.

 

So, whether the VS improved power or not, I'm not sure. But what is certain is that it is very useful and effective in removing electrical noise, and for that I'm very happy to have bought it. :D

 

Yes, VS do filter out noise and its not a myth. Why? Thats because VS are pretty much capacitors are capacitors are also noise filters. They filter out spikes in voltages which causes RF interference. Engine spark plugs produces lots of RF interference.

 

Of course, if you want even better noise reduction, you should install shielded wires.

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If you are installing ICE in your car and you are very particular about audio quality. Connect your ground back to your batt and NOT your chassis. Install VS also to cut out as much voltage fluctuations as possible.

 

Chassis is a very bad grounding point. The resistant is much higher compared copper cables. If you have a multimeter, just measure the resistance of the grounding point to the battery. It high compared to cables. Cares are all spot welded and contact between metal sheets are poor, not to mention steel is not exactly an excellent conductor of electricity.

 

Of course, its only if you are very particular. Car audio is same as home audio and hifi enthusaists are very particular about power quality to ensure the best possible audio quality (I used to be hifi siao also....).

 

Best is to use twisted pair or shielded cables for your speakers to cut out noise. Silver plated cables makes your music to sound bright. For power cables, you may want solid core copper cables. It beats stranded cables but is very stiff. If you want, shield your power cables as well. LHS shop @ SLT do sell good power cables and even braided shield. Good stuff.

 

For speaker cables and interconnects, you can look for one cable shop on 2nd storey in SLS. They sell Qunex cables which are very good entry level stuff. I don't see the need for crazy expensive stuff like Van den Hull or Nordost etc.....

 

For speakers themselves, I don't know too much about car audio (most hifi companies don't make for cars) but brands like Sony are pretty much crap stuff. Maybe can rip out cones from speakers and mount them in cars?

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Why are you guys concern about speed of electron flow? It is the most unimportant thing in the world. Your wire is a sea of electrons, (metal as a sea of electrons. Sec school physics).

 

It is true electrons flow slowly in a wire. But you dun need one particular electron to flow to the other end of the wire for your music to flow through. Think of it as you make a wave at one end of the rope, the wave will travel down to the other end. but does the molecule acutaully move from one end to the other?

 

So what is important then? Back to JC physics. For ICE, the most important thing is the total capacitance © and inductance (L) on your wire.

 

Inductance --> this causes the high frequency (tremble) and low frequency (bass) to arrive at your destination at different timing. Thus in worst case, the tremble will arrive later than the bass.. You really will not care if both tremble and bass take 3s to arrive if they arrive at the speakers at exactly same time. Cure: Use multi strand wires or thick wire. (wiki skin effect for wires) Exact Formula: Z = jwL where w = 2 * pi * f. Z is the impedance.

 

Capacitance --> This creates distortion! Your wire creates a capacitance with the body of your car! Thats also why audiophiles like to hand their wires in air. Grounding your chasis helps in this. some JC physics

 

I = C * dv/dt (taught in JC)

 

I is the current flowing from your cables to your car chasis. In other words, the chasis steals the electric signnal from your ICE (I). As you can see, if you ground properly (properly is key word), you making the dv = 0 as your ICE and chasis same potential. Thus I (leakage current) = 0. Your chasis do not steal from your wire. This is just one benefit of grounding. The logic of grounding is really to create the same potential (voltage) between your entire chasis and your ICE. This will also help cut down on effects of stray currents.

 

 

So what type of distortion? The scary part is your chasis steals your bass and tremble at different rate!

Z = i/jwC ! where w = 2 * pi * F (frequency)

 

 

There is still EMF to be considered but thats a very long and complex story.

 

 

------- Rate of flow of electron (JC Physics) ----------------------------------------

Electic Current = I

Charges (electrons) = Q

I = dQ / dt

In other words, Current = change in charges per second.

 

The higher the current, the more charges flow in one second.

 

 

From an Ex Engineer.

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