Toyota Camry 2.0L (2007) Braking Issue

[Theatreofdreams]

Hi need you guys' inputs. Car in issue here is the 2007 model 2.0L Camry, basically the current model minus the minor facelift.

 

Sometime back while on the road the traffic light turned red at a not-here-not-there point (you know la) and I had to brake hard to a stop. Travelling speed was probably around 60-70km/h. Note: hard braking, but surely not sharp emergency braking. Road condition was dry but slightly bumpy.

 

What I experienced was a rather violent vibration from the brake pedal and steering wheel, or basically the whole car. It did not happen immediately when I applied the brakes, but midway through the braking. Whether braking ability was still present or not I can't recall, as I was kinda shocked momentarilty (luckily there was no other vehicle in front). I remember instinctively stepping in more and the vibration went away, and everything went back to normal.

 

Following so I was wondering whether it was ABS. However in this scenario the road was dry and there wasn't any loss of traction. I've experienced ABS on another car before and I don't remember it to be as 'violent' as this. Furthermore, it wasn't as it was sharp emergency braking. Eventually I gathered it could be the road bumps that 'confused' some sensor or whatever during the hard braking.

 

Just recently, my dad seemed to have experienced the same issue. This time he was on expressway around 100+. I don't know how hard he braked this time relative to my experience, but his description of the vibration was similar to mine.

 

I am planning to go to Borneo Motors for this. But before that I'd like to consult you guys on what could be the problem, and if there has been any similar experience. As you know, it may not be possible to emulate the same thing to the Toyota guys. Not saying that they will not believe, but it's also hard for them to diagnose without a first-hand experience. Hence I thought it might be helpful for me to gather some intelligence from you all first.

 

Thank you, and may all drive safe.

Edited March 26, 2010 by Theatreofdreams

[Lkk]

i m a camry driver too, 2.0, late 08'

 

i feel for u cos our brakes doesn't "makan" well

 

one of my friends change to stainless steel brake hose but heard warranty will be voided...

[RODNEYFU]

i am a PI camry driver and just got the 2007 model 3 months ago. now my brake and abs light all on. all sensor gone for petrol, temp, speedometer, aircon, central lock. have anyone here encounter this problem and how you solved this?

location singapore

[Zoom99]

1. Check your rear disc rotors.

 

2. Check your rear brake pads.

[RODNEYFU]

i hv replaced front n rear brake already. mechanic say is abs actuator, which cost $2k. isit true?

[Hamburger]

i hv replaced front n rear brake already. mechanic say is abs actuator, which cost $2k. isit true?

not sure about toyota, but most likely its the sensor cable which is located at the rotor.

[Hamburger]

i hv replaced front n rear brake already. mechanic say is abs actuator, which cost $2k. isit true?

check for codes on OBD II. This one cant lie.

[RODNEYFU]

tks hamburger, i will ask the mechanic to check again.

[Yeobh]

If aftermarket reverse engineering OBD2 code readers are so good and accurate in pointing the trouble sources, then all professional mechs will be out of business in no time .Makers of such scanners & program will never sell them to shops, they could make tons of monies by leasing them.

Top end car makers scanners are not for sales even ADs only get a watered down version that allow them to access the on-board program up to certain security level.

AD scanners are normally license to them with annual fee for updating the program.

Edited September 5, 2013 by Yeobh

[RODNEYFU]

that means my mechanic will not be able to have the correct code? faint.

[Yeobh]

If any systems does vary from the program set volt or frequencies, the program will raise a red flag and it indicates there is a fault within this system - but where and which component is left to the mech to do detail checking.

For e.g a guy keep on complaining to the doctor of headache - the cause can be due to workplace lighting, food he takes, stress due to relationship or maybe a cut at the foot. So the doctor cannot immediate claim there is a problem with the head and need to be "replaced"

 

 

[Yeobh]

It much easier to check since there is some many problem happening and all seems to be related.

I will suggest yr mech start checking both yr batter and alternator, if ok proceed to check all the fuse connections and connectors going to the display.

Ps I understand some car display circuit board has a minute fuse.

 

[Hamburger]

that means my mechanic will not be able to have the correct code? faint.

though it does not specifically point it to the exact source, more or less its there.

 

The least you know its which side of wheel.,L or R side.

 

Try with the sensor cable first as its normally the faulty one and actuator seldom spoilt.

[RODNEYFU]

oh ok then replace the doctor.

[RODNEYFU]

ok all points noted. i will forward all suggestion and advise to my mechanic for reference. tqvm.

[Therock610]

ok all points noted. i will forward all suggestion and advise to my mechanic for reference. tqvm.

 

Bro, pls update after the fault is found...hope is nothing major...cheers

[Celicar]

1. Check your rear disc rotors.

 

2. Check your rear brake pads.

Thanks for the timely advice.

[Ant]

Same problem. I just change the brake rotors and problem solved. Mechanics said dun drive into a car wash after a long drive cos when they spray the rotor with cold water the rotors wrap when it is still hot.