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Questions about Gearbox overhaul


Vextan
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8 hours ago, mersaylee said:

有钱人就是不一样😝

I is the boh lui lang...if for me... I would ask  just enuf of every detail otherwise tio kick out of the workshop...in order to take out my skinny wallet...

infamous ford power shift gearbox issues could be rectified as easy as a software reset, or fluid change, or seal and/or damper spring to solenoids or clutch plates replacement...various degree of “overhaul” warrants different charges...

My experience with the rich men is they  will ask till the last detail😄😄.  Boh lui lang like us ah, we dare not ask questions one. 

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44 minutes ago, Volvobrick said:

Alternative get the lithium battery jump starter. Everytime open bonnet to jump start. You get to keep the jump starter after scrapping! 

Thought of that but the battery was totally dead becos lao zhup... scared kena scrap on the spot with fire...sekali also help scrap other cars as well...😅

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8 hours ago, mersaylee said:

I also ever kena an easy decision to make...

dead battery one week to scrap...Paid 120 for an used one to tide over...otherwise, $40 for tow, then 5x$60 for 5 days rental... 

120 vs 340 plus hassle of updating the  HDB parking detail, get and return rental car...

👍🏼👍🏼

Edited by Fcw75
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Chiming in again, and no I have not gone to fix my Toyota Picnic auto transmission yet. I seem to be surviving.

Problem is when I start the car and shift into D, it will not engage gear, and need to wait 2-3 minute before I feel a "clunk" and the gear engage. Reverse has no issue.

To speed this up I can rev the engine to 3-4K rpm but it will jerk forward suddenly.  So I usually press down the brake when doing this, and when I feel the "clunk" then I release the pdal and brake and move on.  When the car decides it wants to move, I can drive with no problem continuously, only problem is when starting.

I am hesitant to spend the 1k to 2k to fix the car as the car will be scrapped June 2021.  I read in another tread in this forum that the owner has the same issue with Toyota Harrier and replacing the transmission filter and ATF solved the problem. 

I called around and changing the trans filter and ATF cost between $120 to $260 depending on the workshop.  I hope this works as its better than spending 1-2k.

Anyone can advise if this worked for you too? What is a fair price to pay for changing trans filter and ATF if no need use original parts?  

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37 minutes ago, VictorLim said:

.

Anyone can advise if this worked for you too? What is a fair price to pay for changing trans filter and ATF if no need use original parts?  

I dun think its going to help.

But can alway try😅

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Just do minimal attempt to last the remaining 4 months of usage unless you're thinking of COE extension. 

Had leaky GB...topped it up few weeks before I shoved it to exporter...😁

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1 hour ago, VictorLim said:

Chiming in again, and no I have not gone to fix my Toyota Picnic auto transmission yet. I seem to be surviving.

Problem is when I start the car and shift into D, it will not engage gear, and need to wait 2-3 minute before I feel a "clunk" and the gear engage. Reverse has no issue.

To speed this up I can rev the engine to 3-4K rpm but it will jerk forward suddenly.  So I usually press down the brake when doing this, and when I feel the "clunk" then I release the pdal and brake and move on.  When the car decides it wants to move, I can drive with no problem continuously, only problem is when starting.

I am hesitant to spend the 1k to 2k to fix the car as the car will be scrapped June 2021.  I read in another tread in this forum that the owner has the same issue with Toyota Harrier and replacing the transmission filter and ATF solved the problem. 

I called around and changing the trans filter and ATF cost between $120 to $260 depending on the workshop.  I hope this works as its better than spending 1-2k.

Anyone can advise if this worked for you too? What is a fair price to pay for changing trans filter and ATF if no need use original parts?  

When gb has problem engaging and getting into gear means it is the Torque Converter that has a problem. In engineering terms we call it the fluid coupling. When the fluid pump is not filling the drum with oil fast enough or not filling due to the faulty fluid pump the 1st gear will not engage. If you are driving smoothly w/o hiccup with the gears shifting up/down on its own your gb is generally alright. Since you never comprain about gear shifting got issue means the gb is fine. The issue that you have is the torque converter on cold engine start. 

What you should do is let the car idle and warm up. If you dont replace the fluid pump it might take longer and longer to engage cos if the drum is not filled with oil it will not engage gear.

 

 

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Car is ex-PARF and only left a year to go, not worth it to change pump, will try the trans filter, gasket and fluid change, hope it works.  Will update after I did this.

I got different prices from different shops for the change from about $120 (OEM parts) to $380 (originals which I do not need since just need to last 12 months).  Seems the most expensive part is the ATF costing $100-$125 for 5 liters.  However I see Toyota ATF being sold for half on the forum...the markup is double not counting labour! 

 

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15 hours ago, Colin03 said:

 Changing trans filter and ATF if no need use original parts - est 80 to 130 

Change auto filter, auto gasket and ATF with labour, I received one quote for $120 but the reviews for that shop not too good saying they find ways to overprice.  Next best is $178 from a well rated shop, the rest are above $2xx to even $380!

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16 hours ago, Beregond said:

I dun think its going to help.

But can alway try😅

seconded. doubt it will work. the symptoms seems like loss of pressure. valve body leaks.

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Exactly. It's the seals within the trans valve body that has worn out and not able to hold the pressure. 

 

Best short term solution for me then with my ody was to pour a lucas transmission repair fluid together with an ATF change. Worked wonder but only for 6 months where the symptom came back again. Scrapped the car for a Saab. 

 

Edited by Hamburger
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3 hours ago, VictorLim said:

Car is ex-PARF and only left a year to go, not worth it to change pump, will try the trans filter, gasket and fluid change, hope it works.  Will update after I did this.

I got different prices from different shops for the change from about $120 (OEM parts) to $380 (originals which I do not need since just need to last 12 months).  Seems the most expensive part is the ATF costing $100-$125 for 5 liters.  However I see Toyota ATF being sold for half on the forum...the markup is double not counting labour! 

 

A year to go?

Thought COE expiring in June 2021?

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If you had overhauled your gearbox last year Sept, you would just be using your car with no issue now.

The longer you drag, the nearer to COE expiry and the more hesitant you will be to overhaul. The problem will become worse and will not go away one.

Not a good feeling when you are stranded on the road with failed gearbox.

Edited by Fcw75
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38 minutes ago, VictorLim said:

Sorry June 2022, still in 2020 zone sometimes, heh heh, my mistake.

Well, since you can live with it for so long, i guess there is no urgency to fix the GB issue. Hehe..

For me, i know i can't live with a time bomb. My morning schedule is very packed and every minute counts. 

I cannot afford 3-4 mins of waiting for GB to engage gear, i luggi cannot afford my car to fail me in morning. 

 

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21 minutes ago, Roh96 said:

 

I cannot afford 3-4 mins of waiting for GB to engage gear, i luggi cannot afford my car to fail me in morning. 

 

I dun even warm up my engine for 1 min.

Start car ajust abit. Wait a while. 30 secs i no patience  liao. 😂

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