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Neutral Newbie

Good Carbuyer,

 

 

i a bit at fault also, work tuas, stay circuit road, but 630 like that then set off, so running 100km++ is common thing. just wondering if anyone else doing the same thing getting the same result..... haiz.... i also struggle very long then post de, cause FC too epic liao.

 

 

to add, RPM most of the time is around 3~4k de. i dun expect too much la, just wondering if it's normal.

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Good Carbuyer,

 

 

i a bit at fault also, work tuas, stay circuit road, but 630 like that then set off, so running 100km++ is common thing. just wondering if anyone else doing the same thing getting the same result..... haiz.... i also struggle very long then post de, cause FC too epic liao.

I believe you are using PIE at that time without traffic jam, so that should be about the cruising speed. Kenari got different aerodynamics from Kelisa. Ever drove Kelisa from Ang Mo Kio to KL and back (distance over 700km) with about 100km petrol left in the 40L tank when I reached Ang Mo Kio. I like to believe there is mechanical problem(s) besides Kenari's aerodynamics. Perhaps you fetch full load of passengers/goods... under-inflated tire, wheels alignment, handbrake adjustment, slippery tire...

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to add, RPM most of the time is around 3~4k de. i dun expect too much la, just wondering if it's normal.

I believe Kenari share the same gearbox as Kelisa. Most economical to maintain within their crising speed with 3600rpm (estimated 110km/H). Beyond 36000 rpm the engine starts to get noiser irregardless of what engine oil you put in. FC starts getting poor from then. If ours under warranty, I believe only John the boss at Perocom can have the expertise to look into this. The rest in this AD's workshop are learn-through-mistakes Apprentices only (not familiar with non regular servicing tasks...).

I would suggest if you do not need Kenari's headroom, to trade-in for Spark (manual) or Kelisa (manual). SparK got impressive suspension, and Kelisa got impressive FC. Viva a current replacement for Kelisa. I have not test drove this model yet, looking for more powerful cars. Sirion more value-for-money than Myvi.

Edited by Good-Carbuyer
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I believe Kenari share the same gearbox as Kelisa. Most economical to maintain within their crising speed with 3600rpm (estimated 110km/H). Beyond 36000 rpm the engine starts to get noiser irregardless of what engine oil you put in. FC starts getting poor from then. If ours under warranty, I believe only John the boss at Perocom can have the expertise to look into this. The rest in this AD's workshop are learn-through-mistakes Apprentices only (not familiar with non regular servicing tasks...).

I would suggest if you do not need Kenari's headroom, to trade-in for Spark (manual) or Kelisa (manual). SparK got impressive suspension, and Kelisa got impressive FC. Viva a current replacement for Kelisa. I have not test drove this model yet, looking for more powerful cars. Sirion more value-for-money than Myvi.

 

Yes! Sirion more value for money than Myvi

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Neutral Newbie

Yes! Sirion more value for money than Myvi

 

Sirion is not too bad la but have its own issues also. I just changed the steering assembly due to knocking issues. Now got vibration issues at low rpm, but STS workshop told me because turn on headlight or when RPM drop so will encounter this issue. Feels weird.

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Sirion is not too bad la but have its own issues also. I just changed the steering assembly due to knocking issues. Now got vibration issues at low rpm, but STS workshop told me because turn on headlight or when RPM drop so will encounter this issue. Feels weird.

How could the headlights cause vibration? That must be a Mess-chanic, not Mechanic. Go to another workshop.

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Sirion is not too bad la but have its own issues also. I just changed the steering assembly due to knocking issues. Now got vibration issues at low rpm, but STS workshop told me because turn on headlight or when RPM drop so will encounter this issue. Feels weird.

 

The car is good....just that STS is another AD of a kind <_<

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Sirion is not too bad la but have its own issues also. I just changed the steering assembly due to knocking issues. Now got vibration issues at low rpm, but STS workshop told me because turn on headlight or when RPM drop so will encounter this issue. Feels weird.

 

Some batch have steering issues which I have read from somewhere. Quite a frustrating issue which many owners very unhappy about. -_-

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Neutral Newbie

How could the headlights cause vibration? That must be a Mess-chanic, not Mechanic. Go to another workshop.

 

He did not mentioned is the headlights is the culprit. Just that when he offs the headlight the RPM goes down, vibrations will come though not very irritating. He did tried with me when we off the headlights RPM will drop to 700rpm.

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Hi Guys,

 

I changing my timing belt and water pump soon ...

 

wanna check if the OE number for VIVA 1.0 , is 16100-29115/29116 (T-128) NPW

 

Anyone changed before ???

 

pls advise , thanks

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He did not mentioned is the headlights is the culprit. Just that when he offs the headlight the RPM goes down, vibrations will come though not very irritating. He did tried with me when we off the headlights RPM will drop to 700rpm.

Earthing circuitry conductance deficiency? Some electrical problems are solved by an additional earthing cable to the battery terminal

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i just changed last month...

 

I did at Ros Merah last month about RM800. I change the following:

 

Engine oil

Brake oil

Power steering oil

Coolant

Timing belt

Power steering belt

Aircon belt

Brake pads

 

and a few more stuff.... super major servicing

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Neutral Newbie

i just changed last month...

 

I did at Ros Merah last month about RM800. I change the following:

 

Engine oil

Brake oil

Power steering oil

Coolant

Timing belt

Power steering belt

Aircon belt

Brake pads

 

and a few more stuff.... super major servicing

 

Whats your mileage now?

How much is the labour?

 

 

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Mileage 82k...

 

All in is RM800. I change alot of stuff took 3.5 hours, went in the morning reach around 11.30 finish at about 3.30, left at 4... The labour for all the timing belt around RM350 (i cannot remember the amount but its RM300+) but they change 3 belts for me and never charge me extra, the labour for the oil change, brake pads etc is about RM70 if i remember correctly...

 

BTW most Perodua service centre, you cant bring your own oil and timing belt etc to get it change, they dun entertain

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Hi brother,

 

you cannot expect your mileage to show you 500km like every car you first need to see how big is your fuel tank. My fuel tank is 36 litres, when the lights turn on and start blinking... i can fill my tank to max 28 litres and it overflows... and wait for 30 secs and press abit more still over flows, so that is the max i can go.... for me i get about 350km-370km of mileage each time and each time i fill up is about 23-25 litres

 

IF your mileage is 310km, you need to check how much are you pumping at every full tank. Do you pump full tank or half tank? Do you pump when its empty or when there is 1/4 left. All these will determine your mileage. If you pump 3/4 tank petrol everytime you reach 1/4 and you clock 310km its quite reasonable.

 

Best is to monitor your driving and pumping. Pump your tank to the fullest.... take note of your mileage when its almost empty and your refill, see how many litres you pump and divide by the number of KM you travel, take note over 6 cycles and see lor.

 

If you pump 22 litres of petrol each time (cos if they tell you your tank is 30 litres, there is about 5-6 litres which is the reserve tank so unless you touch it if not its quite hard to pump 30 litres of petrol unless your car totally empty) so if you pump 22 litres and your travel 310km, that will work out to be about 14km/litre which is quite good.

 

Also take note to make sure your tyres are in proper order. If your alignment is out or your wheels are not properly balanced, the car will consume more petrol, if your tyres are deflated that also affect. I suggest that you pump your tyres once a week or once in two weeks.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

Hi,

 

Any one driving Kenari??? how many KM you all can get out of one full tank?? mine is like damn low, 300~315 km max... haiz....

Edited by Meganut
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Neutral Newbie

Hi brother,

 

you cannot expect your mileage to show you 500km like every car you first need to see how big is your fuel tank. My fuel tank is 36 litres, when the lights turn on and start blinking... i can fill my tank to max 28 litres and it overflows... and wait for 30 secs and press abit more still over flows, so that is the max i can go.... for me i get about 350km-370km of mileage each time and each time i fill up is about 23-25 litres

 

IF your mileage is 310km, you need to check how much are you pumping at every full tank. Do you pump full tank or half tank? Do you pump when its empty or when there is 1/4 left. All these will determine your mileage. If you pump 3/4 tank petrol everytime you reach 1/4 and you clock 310km its quite reasonable.

 

Best is to monitor your driving and pumping. Pump your tank to the fullest.... take note of your mileage when its almost empty and your refill, see how many litres you pump and divide by the number of KM you travel, take note over 6 cycles and see lor.

 

If you pump 22 litres of petrol each time (cos if they tell you your tank is 30 litres, there is about 5-6 litres which is the reserve tank so unless you touch it if not its quite hard to pump 30 litres of petrol unless your car totally empty) so if you pump 22 litres and your travel 310km, that will work out to be about 14km/litre which is quite good.

 

Also take note to make sure your tyres are in proper order. If your alignment is out or your wheels are not properly balanced, the car will consume more petrol, if your tyres are deflated that also affect. I suggest that you pump your tyres once a week or once in two weeks.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

Thanks!

 

it's really more or less it say.... +/- 310km to 22 ~ 25 l, (cause sometime i do stupid stuff like wake up late, or try to overtake BMW, haha). just glad to see that my Kenari is flying normally, even that i push it to 110~120 km most of the time.

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Neutral Newbie

I believe you are using PIE at that time without traffic jam, so that should be about the cruising speed. Kenari got different aerodynamics from Kelisa. Ever drove Kelisa from Ang Mo Kio to KL and back (distance over 700km) with about 100km petrol left in the 40L tank when I reached Ang Mo Kio. I like to believe there is mechanical problem(s) besides Kenari's aerodynamics. Perhaps you fetch full load of passengers/goods... under-inflated tire, wheels alignment, handbrake adjustment, slippery tire...

 

 

 

 

Buyer,

 

your guess is more or less there, i go by PIE,KPE, then westcoast highway, (there can run easier than other highway), then jurong port road, finally AYE to tuas ave 8.

 

i have issue on it's aerodynamics and shape also. but my mom sign the car without telling me. (haiz... that one is long story) anyway i like the sitting position and all. so if the FC is ok, then i dun mind keeping this car (partly due to COE also). Just worried that my FC is abnormal.

 

Thanks you guys for the help!

:D

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