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3 minutes ago, iamahbee said:

I suppose you mean the indicator lit up at 12k km and 27k km. The service interval is 15k, have you serviced your car in between?

From 0 to 12000km - 1 litre of EO per 12,000km

Serviced at 15,000km.

from 15,000 to 27,000km - 1 litre of EO per 12,000km.

It all adds up! Very consistent EO consumption.

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2 minutes ago, Toeknee_33 said:

From 0 to 12000km - 1 litre of EO per 12,000km

Serviced at 15,000km.

from 15,000 to 27,000km - 1 litre of EO per 12,000km.

It all adds up! Very consistent EO consumption.

That's what I thought... I had a Mk7 1.4 122hp for 7 years and the low oil warning came up once at 5k km and then much later at 110k km. The latter happened as my EO cap gasket was worn and oil spurts out from the top on starts. 

There are several factors for the EA211 engine to consume more oil than usual, I will just list them based on my experience:

1. Car is used for short journeys <9km each trip. 

2. Car is always stuck in heavy traffic.

3. Driver moves off immediately after a cold start; the EA211 usually idles at 1100-1200rpm on cold starts before settling to a normal 850-900rpm. If the driver moves off immediately at a higher idle speed, the oil tends to burn.

Usage patterns aside, check for these signs:

1. Oil stains around the EO cap (as with my issue stated above).

2. Oil stains/patches on the engine bay floorpan; open the bonnet and shine a torch into the gap between the radiator and engine block. 

3. Specks of blackened oil spots around the exhaust pipe. 

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32 minutes ago, iamahbee said:

That's what I thought... I had a Mk7 1.4 122hp for 7 years and the low oil warning came up once at 5k km and then much later at 110k km. The latter happened as my EO cap gasket was worn and oil spurts out from the top on starts. 

There are several factors for the EA211 engine to consume more oil than usual, I will just list them based on my experience:

1. Car is used for short journeys <9km each trip. 

2. Car is always stuck in heavy traffic.

3. Driver moves off immediately after a cold start; the EA211 usually idles at 1100-1200rpm on cold starts before settling to a normal 850-900rpm. If the driver moves off immediately at a higher idle speed, the oil tends to burn.

Usage patterns aside, check for these signs:

1. Oil stains around the EO cap (as with my issue stated above).

2. Oil stains/patches on the engine bay floorpan; open the bonnet and shine a torch into the gap between the radiator and engine block. 

3. Specks of blackened oil spots around the exhaust pipe. 

What i found from a quick check on the internet: VW says 1L every 1600km is within acceptable range. 

Some explanations were: (1) low tension piston rings are used to reduce friction and improve efficiency, so EO gets past the rings into the combustion chambers and gets burnt off. (2) There is more lubrication of valve seals and stems, and EO gets into the combustion chambers too.

Or maybe, like Mercedes F1-style, these engines burn EO to make more power! 😁

https://enrg.io/how-mercedes-f1-engine-burns-oil-for-more-power-w-video/

 

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Neutral Newbie
On 5/21/2020 at 4:34 PM, Toeknee_33 said:

What i found from a quick check on the internet: VW says 1L every 1600km is within acceptable range. 

Some explanations were: (1) low tension piston rings are used to reduce friction and improve efficiency, so EO gets past the rings into the combustion chambers and gets burnt off. (2) There is more lubrication of valve seals and stems, and EO gets into the combustion chambers too.

Or maybe, like Mercedes F1-style, these engines burn EO to make more power! 😁

https://enrg.io/how-mercedes-f1-engine-burns-oil-for-more-power-w-video/

 

Thanks you guys for your sharing. Will be sending the car in for 30K servicing soon with AD. Will request them to carry out an inspection for any oil leak.

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Neutral Newbie

Hello all, I’m trying to find a light out of the problems I have.

My Golf MK6 has been crashing badly since mid of July and my trusted mechanic seems to be unable to resolve all the issues despite numerous visits and spending many weeks there 😞

 

1st visit: engine stalled when Check Engine Light came on and started blinking. Towed to workshop to change ignition coil.  Was told that it misfired. Spark plugs had no issue

 

2nd, 5 days later, car started jerking when shifting gears (only upwards), drove to check, no issue

 

3rd, 4 days later, jerking persists and sent over to check. Changed mechatronic oil

 

4th, next day, Check Engine Light came on again. Sent in, changed the cracked diverter valve 
 

5th, 1 hour later, Check Engine Light came on AGAIN. Sent in, changed waste gate valve. No lights but mechanic did a diagnostic test and there is fault code. He proceeded to check on ECU. Pins corroded but due to the check, the pins broke and changed ECU.


Meanwhile he cleared a lot of leaves from drainage (that’s why ECU corroded due to water)

 

6th, car still rev for no reason, cannot go more than 60km/h. Took back the car while waiting for another ECU.

 

7th, drove for 30 min after changing ECU, EPC light + Check Engine Light came on. Car started to rev even when I’m not doing anything (Parked mode and handbrake engaged). Diagnostic test shows ECU still has issues (eventually the 2nd ECU also corroded a bit due to water).

 

8th, car cannot accelerate even when I stepped damn hard on accelerator, goes onto limp mode as and when (beyond 50km/h and even at 30km/h). Changed thermostat switch which is leaking and causing corrosion to ECU.

 

Another fault code appears (P0222) Throttle/ pedal position switch/ sensor B: Low input. Mechanic changed the sensor in the accelerator pedal, fault code still there

 

Mechanic is now changing all the pins (wires) in ECU and see how it goes. 
 

 

TLDR;

- engine stalled, misfired, changed ignition coil

- jerking when changing gear, changed mechatronic oil

- check engine light came on, changed diverter valve

- check engine light came on, changed waste gate valve, ECU diagnosed to have problem

- ECU corroded due to water, changed ECU, corroded again, changed again

- cannot accelerate and car just rolls forward until I turn off engine, changed sensor in accelerator and fault code still persists 

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Guys. I own a VW Golf 1.4 MK7.5. Would appreciate some help / advice.

The change battery cost from AD is quite expensive. I am due to change soon because car already 2 years old.

I was wondering

1. Is it OK to change battery outside or MUST I change it with AD? Does it void my 5 year warranty if I change it outside?

2. If I do change it outside, how much does it usually cost? AD quoted almost $500.

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Twincharged
(edited)
1 hour ago, nashstruck said:

Guys. I own a VW Golf 1.4 MK7.5. Would appreciate some help / advice.

The change battery cost from AD is quite expensive. I am due to change soon because car already 2 years old.

I was wondering

1. Is it OK to change battery outside or MUST I change it with AD? Does it void my 5 year warranty if I change it outside?

2. If I do change it outside, how much does it usually cost? AD quoted almost $500.

Should be ok to change outside .. just make sure it’s AGM battery or try upside it .. other than this please make sure the guy perform a vcds battery initiations.. OR ask your fav workshop to chumsoing initialise for u .

normally VW warranty new car for batt is 2 years .. has it cross that ? If I not sure call the hotline to check 

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4 hours ago, Sdf4786k said:

Should be ok to change outside .. just make sure it’s AGM battery or try upside it .. other than this please make sure the guy perform a vcds battery initiations.. OR ask your fav workshop to chumsoing initialise for u .

normally VW warranty new car for batt is 2 years .. has it cross that ? If I not sure call the hotline to check 

Thanks for the info! My battery is just 2 years 1 month old. AD says that it's now at 50%. I've also realised that the start/stop function doesn't come on as much anymore. I figured it's probably a sign that the battery is not holding a charge as well as before. I tried to ask AD for discount given it's just cross by 1 month (delay in servicing mainly due to COVID), because another staff told me they have a promotion of 25% off, but so far the AD won't budge.

VAG offering $350 but AD offering 500$. Quite a big diff.

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42 minutes ago, WWbarb said:

@nashstruck Shops like Kim hoe are selling agm batteries eg. Varta for $200plus. Anyway your stock battery should be efb only.

But I guess they do not do battery registration via VCDS. 

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Clutched

hi guys, anyone here tried lowering springs for 2018 1.4 tsi?
Eibach, H&R, Racingline, which one is best?
Not considering coilovers at the moment.

Appreciate if anyone has input. 

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Twincharged
On 5/27/2021 at 9:47 PM, nashstruck said:

Thanks for the info! My battery is just 2 years 1 month old. AD says that it's now at 50%. I've also realised that the start/stop function doesn't come on as much anymore. I figured it's probably a sign that the battery is not holding a charge as well as before. I tried to ask AD for discount given it's just cross by 1 month (delay in servicing mainly due to COVID), because another staff told me they have a promotion of 25% off, but so far the AD won't budge.

VAG offering $350 but AD offering 500$. Quite a big diff.

Try escalate to the guy in the fish tank .. he generally is flexible if your historical services with them is prompt and no complaints so far .. 

if you are one of those that every service has a ton of mysterious sound to troubleshoot type, then you probably won’t get much joy from the conversation 

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Neutral Newbie

was thinking of trading my mazda 3 2017 to Golf MK7.

 

but im doing delivery for a living, is golf suitable ?

delivery as in lalamove and grabfood

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