Solution to loose steering

[Jaspok]

Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

[Ftco]

Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

 

May be drive shaft?

[Count_duku]

Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

My clunk was due to inner tie rod - when doing U turn sure clunk. Anyways the tie rods are much cheaper than the CV shaft. A few hundreds vs $1500 for CV shaft. Inner tie rod connects the steering rack to the outer rod, which connects to the lower arm, if I'm not mistaken been a while. Edited November 1, 2014 by Count_duku

[Count_duku]

Forgot to mention mine was a single clunk , if repeated knocking then something else ..

[Hamburger]

Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

Knocking sound from L wheel while doing U turn?

 

Most constant velocity (CV) joint on the L side will worn off first.

[Count_duku]

Update on alignment pulls - some shops have a side slip tester that tests the alignment when car is moving forward. The problem is normal alignment rig checks the toe angles when the car is stationary. When the car is accelerating, the front wheels pull and worn suspension can cause the front toe to change. A good mechanic can do minor adjustments to the front toe and check measurement on the side slip tester to negate the pull. Alternatively the solution is to replace all the worn parts.

 

Finally replaced the worn part - worn lower arm bushings with Powerflex. Eliminated the pull to one side.

[andy7]

is this very common issue?