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Xrbeast

Solution to loose steering

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Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

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Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

 

May be drive shaft?

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Hi all Alfisti,

Just to share. If you guys have a loose steering feel, ie. the wheel seems to wander on uneven road and you hear knocks when roads are uneven, you may have a worn tie rod.

 

To confirm this, raise your car, with both hands at 3 and 9 oclock position, rock the front wheel (left or right). if you there is freeplay, chances are your tie rods are worn. To double confirm, remove the rubber boot of the inner tie rod to see the inside when you move the wheel laterally. (inner tie rods fails more often than outer one)

 

The problem with alfa is that they claim that they do not sell the tie rods separately and you have to get a whole steering rack to replace it. so you can either buy from ebay (which i bought and replaced before, but they do not last, it was worn in less than a year (it could be due to some potholes on the road that i encountered that cause the premature failure). Or, get a used rack from scrapyard (like propel) to salvage the tie rods, which i also did on the recently tie rod change.

 

Please do not spent thousands of dollars on a new steering rack when you can fix this problem at a much lower cost.

 

 

Rdgs

 

Do send our car to such re-lubrication if not familiar with DIY. Worn tie-rod can broke off anytime while driving. The car can crash out of control.

Same here. Are there other ways to find out if the tie rods are the cause? Will a worn CV boot cause the same problem?

Different problem.

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your shocks are about to give up.

Some manufacturers recommend to replace shock-absorbers after 40K Km. Some usage can half that service life span. While very light usage can double the service life span.

So servicing CV joints, tie-rod joints, replacing shock-absorbers and rubber bushes, all around the same time. Some tire may need replacement too.

I visited Alfa parts websites like alfaworkshop, and they do sell the inner tie rods independently from the steering rack. I just ordered and hopefully they fit the steering rack as with the integrated ones. From experience, changing the tie rod ends (with the right angle ball joint) alone do not help much. Dunno why the workshops like to change this part and waste time and money. ok maybe it's the cheaper option and worth a try.

Usual for that ball-joint to be worn first due to neglect/usage. Your life and time worth the replacement cost.

Maybe yr friendly garage don't have a proper ball joint extractor. Maybe they are more handy in using chisel and hammer

During NS we use to tap with hammer, a piece of wood placed in between. Perhaps the Central Ordnance Base got the comprehensive tools. We at the Unit workshop only got basic toolbox to do magic/wonders.

Update - looks like I had to change my tie rod ends as well, another $100. The ones replaced last year crapped out only after 20,000km damn.

If we charge with our cars at speed humps/speed stripes, or hit kerbs, can even shorten the life span further.

hi guys...

 

I also having the same problem. But i changed my tie rods, lower control arm and damper.

 

I still have problem turning right, is there anywhere i can get the workshop to check on the under carriage?

Used car can have bend/cracked suspension bracket(s) for some reasons. So its good to have undercarriage checked when buying used car.

Hi, if my steering wheel is looser than before, but not say very serious, I mean I just feel that it is "lighter" than before when i make a turn, should I worry about it ? To what extent does it warrant a check at workshop ?

 

Thanks much for any advice.

Could be you never serviced the steering system before this occassion?

Update on alignment pulls - some shops have a side slip tester that tests the alignment when car is moving forward. The problem is normal alignment rig checks the toe angles when the car is stationary. When the car is accelerating, the front wheels pull and worn suspension can cause the front toe to change. A good mechanic can do minor adjustments to the front toe and check measurement on the side slip tester to negate the pull. Alternatively the solution is to replace all the worn parts.

Our lives worth more than the replacement cost. No compromise. Always replace worn parts.

Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

Check if the CV joints lack of lubricant (grease). Make sure its fully packed with grease before putting back the cover.

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Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

My clunk was due to inner tie rod - when doing U turn sure clunk. Anyways the tie rods are much cheaper than the CV shaft. A few hundreds vs $1500 for CV shaft. Inner tie rod connects the steering rack to the outer rod, which connects to the lower arm, if I'm not mistaken been a while. Edited by Count_duku
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Not sure if this is worn tie rods related but I have a knocking sound when doing U turn full lock to the right despite changing front lower arms and new shocks less than 5k ago.

 

 

Knocking sound from L wheel while doing U turn?

 

Most constant velocity (CV) joint on the L side will worn off first.

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Update on alignment pulls - some shops have a side slip tester that tests the alignment when car is moving forward. The problem is normal alignment rig checks the toe angles when the car is stationary. When the car is accelerating, the front wheels pull and worn suspension can cause the front toe to change. A good mechanic can do minor adjustments to the front toe and check measurement on the side slip tester to negate the pull. Alternatively the solution is to replace all the worn parts.

 

Finally replaced the worn part - worn lower arm bushings with Powerflex. Eliminated the pull to one side.

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is this very common issue?

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