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17" Rims


Doraemarc
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guys.... i'm thinking of changing a new set of rims. my current set r original steel rims which weighs a ton... any lightweighted, steady yet cheap rims to recommend?? thanks!!

Edited by Doraemarc
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guys.... i'm thinking of changing a new set of rims. my current set r original steel rims which weighs a ton... any lightweighted, steady yet cheap rims to recommend?? thanks!!

Unfortunately, there is not such thing light weight, steady yet cheap. I suggest either remain with the steel rims or spend a bit more on a set of reasonably priced, sturdy, but not so light rim or spend a lot on light, strong but very expensive set.

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Neutral Newbie

i just had my cheapo 'datacraft' rims replaced to 15" steel rims. forgot the name, its 'data something'.

Handholding the 15" steel rim don't weigh that bad. i could be wrong, but it felt as light or even lighter than the cheapo rims.

 

anyone has info on steel rims weight? i always have positive experience with these.

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guys.... i'm thinking of changing a new set of rims. my current set r original steel rims which weighs a ton... any lightweighted, steady yet cheap rims to recommend?? thanks!!

 

make your trip to cheng en da at kaki bukit road 2 for look 4 your rims,

 

they have many design to suit you and most also your wallet! [laugh]

 

 

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guys.... i'm thinking of changing a new set of rims. my current set r original steel rims which weighs a ton... any lightweighted, steady yet cheap rims to recommend?? thanks!!

 

My opinion is that either stick with original steel rims which are good enough fo daily driving OR get another set of original but aftermarket rims.

 

I have gone for those replica ones some time ago, then change to original aftermarket or the genuine rims which I felt gave me better driveability and an assurance of safety (that the rims will not crack). But genuine rims are not cheap and can be quite costly.

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guys.... i'm thinking of changing a new set of rims. my current set r original steel rims which weighs a ton... any lightweighted, steady yet cheap rims to recommend?? thanks!!

 

alot of repical rims outside. cheap and good.

advanti rims. koywa rims. rm-team rims.legend, FP. etc.

 

i am sure u can find something that fix your every day driving needs

 

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Do they have Enkei replica rims?

like have not really seen them before...

 

forget to mention another popular brand SSW, 'stamdford sports wheels' also another cheap reliable rim u can spot around.

 

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Cheap is important BUT must also remeber to weight (Ask for weight scale from the retailer) & compare few rims' design as that will affect your fuel costs due to higher rolling reistance if heavier (set) weight of rim chosen. (Also compare the tire weight of same size beside choosing the pattern too as that will indirectly prevent sudden shot-up of monthly fuel bills after new set of rims and tires installed)

Edited by Jefkking
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Seriously the weight difference of many decent after market rims is f--k all. Look at the spreadsheet which I have compiled.

 

I would try not to get replicas simply because they are s--t.

 

I know a real life example that got Rota rims because he doesnt wanna spend the extra on the Rays initially. He buckled 1 rim up from a pot hole and according to him the pothole isnt all that big. Got that 1 replaced and guess what? Most of them are f--ked when he check the second time (warped from speed, close to 500rwhp and bumps on road). The structure of these rims are just s--t. In the end he got a set of Enkeis.

 

You should try youtubing the video and you'll understand why. There was an article on the downshift website I read last year that details it. Basically the forged rims are done in a way that the grain of the metal is close to perfect (imagine a piece of wood).

 

Rays Forged Rims

 

Personally I have a set of Rays to begin with (Nismo LMGT4) and they were made in 2000. I buckled 1 up early this year but thats only because I hit a gutter VERY hard when I spun out (stupid of me forgetting the tyres are still cold). This impact bent my rear tie-rod and control arm so you can imagine the impact since the factory tie rod and control arms are VERY strong. I cannot imagine if that was on a set of replica. Now I got a set of TE37 and am very happy with them.

 

Rims_Weight.xls

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Yes, I kena also, same, Rota rims. In fact, I did not even hit any potholes. Just went for regular balancing and found all of em warped.

 

Seriously the weight difference of many decent after market rims is f--k all. Look at the spreadsheet which I have compiled.

 

I would try not to get replicas simply because they are s--t.

 

I know a real life example that got Rota rims because he doesnt wanna spend the extra on the Rays initially. He buckled 1 rim up from a pot hole and according to him the pothole isnt all that big. Got that 1 replaced and guess what? Most of them are f--ked when he check the second time (warped from speed, close to 500rwhp and bumps on road). The structure of these rims are just s--t. In the end he got a set of Enkeis.

 

You should try youtubing the video and you'll understand why. There was an article on the downshift website I read last year that details it. Basically the forged rims are done in a way that the grain of the metal is close to perfect (imagine a piece of wood).

 

Rays Forged Rims

 

Personally I have a set of Rays to begin with (Nismo LMGT4) and they were made in 2000. I buckled 1 up early this year but thats only because I hit a gutter VERY hard when I spun out (stupid of me forgetting the tyres are still cold). This impact bent my rear tie-rod and control arm so you can imagine the impact since the factory tie rod and control arms are VERY strong. I cannot imagine if that was on a set of replica. Now I got a set of TE37 and am very happy with them.

 

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Cheap is important BUT must also remeber to weight (Ask for weight scale from the retailer) & compare few rims' design as that will affect your fuel costs due to higher rolling reistance if heavier (set) weight of rim chosen. (Also compare the tire weight of same size beside choosing the pattern too as that will indirectly prevent sudden shot-up of monthly fuel bills after new set of rims and tires installed)

 

i have used a few set of rims. my family ride i using a cheap fancyful repical, infact those cheap rims i change a few set already,

 

i have no problem with them at all. if they are in any way not as good as orginal rim, ( i got a set of advan racing rim) , i think its the material .

 

cheap repical rim if u bang them ( esp on track) they mostly will crack or break at once.

wherelse good rim advan racing bababa volk racing etc , even if u have accident on track the rim bend or twist mostly.

 

so my own concludion is for a slow and safe family driving , just go for a nice and cheap repical rim(99 % of the time they wont fail u on the road )

 

but if u are a chongester even on singapore road, then indeed u need to consider stronger rim( they might prevent if any accident happen to become worst )

 

and lastly 1 lesson i learn is, no matter how good the rim u use, once u buang and damage the rim, IT CANNOT BE USE ANY MORE. no matter how good the repairman can repair it, the structure is damage, just that we cannot see.

 

so dun buy a expensive orginal rim and assume u can keep repair it or it wont damage even if u buang it.

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