Bought 2nd hand car, has TERRIBLE ICE setup! Oh the horrors.

[Detach8]

Hi guys. I'm new here. Have never ventured into ICE all my car ownership life because I personally like things "original" and "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

 

But anyway, I just bought a 2nd hand Mazdz2. The ex-owner had an ICE installed from I don't know where... (suspect JB - brand of speakers "Soundstream") which I thought sounded absolutely horrible, worse than my stock ICE in a BMW which was already bad enough... and he claimed he spent nearly $2,000 on them!

 

1. PROBLEMS

 

When I got the car the RIGHT tweeter had NO sound, or was weak and cracking. And at volume "2", the ICE was already quite loud! So basically, 0 = off, 1=on, 2=loud, 3=damn bloody loud, 4=inhumanely loud. So the first thing I did was to look under the seats at the amp...

 

2. AMP AND WIRING HORROR

 

What a terrible job!!! The amps were not secured and there wasn't much slack in the wiring (which is bad for the wires). The amp was also in the way of the rear passenger's legroom. As I fiddled with the fader and balance, I found out that the amps had left/right and front/back wired wrongly. From here, I'm already thinking to myself - what else was wired wrongly? Maybe +/- also reverse, who knows?!

 

3. AMP GAIN + LPF HORROR

 

There were two amps. One Sony amp for the components, and another (I forgot the brand) amp for the sub. I found out the component amp had gains turned up to the MAX which resulted in a buzzing noise from the working left tweeter. I fixed the gain and swapped a few incorrectly wired cables. The I found out the sub amp LPF was turned OFF which resulted in horrible hums from the sub. I turned it ON, tweaked the LPF frequencies, set the gain (which was at MAX also?!). I sat down and "enjoyed" some music for the next 1 day.

 

After tweaking the gains, LPF, it was much more bearable but I must say the tweeter suck! It's too loud (vs. the components) that I had the high frequencies right in my face and it was very uncomfortable to listen to. Wife also didn't like the "spider" emblem on the tweeter. So I started venturing into removing the tweeter...

 

4. TWEETER CABLING HORROR

 

So I removed the scuff plate and some interior panels to reveal the hidden tweeter wiring and this is where I started to see some of the UGLY cabling job. The tweeters had nice high quality cables soldered to them, but right under the dash it was twisted together with cheap cables that seemed like stock cables that the car came with and then black-taped all over making the cable all yucky and sticky. I cut the cables, removed the tweeters...

 

Me digging for tweeter cabling...

 

*** INTERMISSION ***

 

P.S. Although I have a seemingly simple 2-way hi-fi at home, I am no car ICE expert. But I must say I am a computer engineer, and I totally HATE terrible cabling jobs and this 2nd hand car has opened up my eyes to one of the worst cabling jobs I've witnessed in a car...

Edited February 3, 2012 by Detach8

[Detach8]

After removing the tweeters, I was quite shagged out (it was at night after work) because I wasn't familiar with taking apart the car's interior so a lot of time was spent pulling plastic parts apart. I knew there had to be a crossover somewhere. I got stuck trying to pull the door panel out which I later downloaded a Russian manual for Mazda2 online and found the hidden screws and continued the next evening...

 

5. DOOR PANEL WIRING HORROR

 

Taking apart the door panels the first thing that fell out of the door was the crossovers. Then I found even WORSE wiring job. The ex-owner's installers have reused the stock speaker wires running through the door to the car, then just twisted + black taped to the thicker high quality cable which were then connected to the crossover and component speakers. So basically where the owner can't see - use any cable. Where the owner can see - use high quality cables. So guys, please WATCH your ICE guy install your cabling!!!

 

Not very clear, but pic shows two blue cable being twisted together after removing black tape.

 

I also found out that the cabling for the tweeters were squeezed through the rubber tubing that runs between the door and the car frame. The ones on the right side was so badly routed it got stuck and I supposed that's where it frayed/broke and caused the right tweeter to fail. The rubber grommets were also not refitted properly possibly causing rain water to leak into cabling.

 

So I removed the tweeter cables and disconnected the crossovers...

 

Removed tweeters and crossovers...

 

At this point I noticed that the speakers had damages to the flexible rubbers running around the sides (don't know what's that called) and it seems that the speakers were pressing against the door panel! So I removed the speakers and found even more black tape horror. The cables to the speaker was twisted on, then black taped around. I went crazy removing black tape tonight and so from now onwards I'm going to call the shop Black Tape Pte Ltd because they basically black tape every damn thing together.

 

More "blue" tape running around the speaker's terminals...

 

I also noticed they had installed a spacer to fit the speakers but the spacer doesn't really hold the speakers properly. I am pretty much exhausted and speechless at this point. I decided to take the speakers home to solder some cables on PROPERLY for once.

 

Preparing for soldering job...

 

Terminals soldered to wire and insulated with heat shrink.

 

After soldering, I went back to my car to install the component speakers back into the front doors. I used electrical wire connectors (those plastic ones with two screws) instead of twisting the wires and black tape because wires will oxidize and introduce resistance over time! Now my job is done converting the two front component speakers into full range.

 

Completed rewiring job. Notice plastic wire connector on top left and damages to speaker...

 

*** TO BE CONTINUED ***

 

Boy it now sounds sooooooo much better WITHOUT the tweeters. So the lesson learnt here is that don't add tweeters for the sake of it. Some of them really suck (like the ones I had).

 

I've hit a roadblock at this moment and I'll find time maybe over the weekend or the next few weeks/months to work on this... problems now:

 

1. I tried to remove the seats so I can rewire the amp properly but am now lacking the tools to do so. I may want to shift the amp to the back and secure it.

2. I was able to peek behind the HU and saw a mess of cabling and masking tape (YES! Masking tape now!) so I want to unravel all the wiring under the carpets and trace them one by one to check if they have been connected properly... especially the polarity!

3. I want to find proper brackets for my front speakers but I don't know where to buy them. Can anybody help? I have not taken out the rear yet and will probably do this weekend just to find out what looms in there.

Edited February 3, 2012 by Detach8

[Genes]

Post this at Sgcaraudio. Think they might be able to point u to the right direction, if not sharing their own tools. I know some of them are quite big on diy

[Cephas]

http://www.sgsoundsystem.com

 

SG & MY ICE portal.

 

It would be easier if you engage a ICE workshop (trusted or recommended ones) to do the necessary check & re-wiring for you....not very expensive & save your time.

Edited February 3, 2012 by Cephas

[Detach8]

Thanks bros... I've posted on sgcaraudio but I couldn't register on sgsoundsystem.

Edited February 3, 2012 by Detach8

[Cephas]

Thanks bros... I've posted on sgcaraudio but I couldn't register on sgsoundsystem.

 

sgsoundsystem is going some revamp recently..so not too sure if it's still accepting new member registration.

 

IMHO, self checking on the wiring is a big job....it's better to leave it to the professional. U never know is the wire under your car carpet broken or melted.

 

You can try using multi-meter but if really the wire need replacement, the car interior need to pull apart....

Edited February 3, 2012 by Cephas

[Detach8]

Well I can pull almost everything except the seats... the screws are too tight for me to undo and I don't have the necessary tools to do it. As long as I can remove my seat, I can lift the carpet already... and the next step is to remove my HU which I have the steps but have not gone to do it yet.

 

I prefer to DIY.. for two reasons. One is to learn... which to me is the most important. Second is the money... don't want to pay a shop a few hundred just to fix this mess. If that's the case I rather dekit and revert to stock!

[Billytjiong]

Hi,

 

Understand your situation, was happened to me also.

My car ice are in place, however the cabling work and cable connector was done very badly from the previous owner. Therefore my car was having a very loud buzzing sound every time u tried to on the system. I also found out that every time my car passing the hump, buzzing sound getting louder (lose connection) additional seasoning to add on is my ice had whine sound (aeroplane sound)

Trust me annoyed to the max. I tried to detached the panel here and there, found out it wasn't easy job for me, and I don't have enough tools and very time consuming.

Give up and I finally find the ice workshop around my area. Let them check and the shop decided to change the whole wiring system. Upon dismental everything, I found out that previous ws only using very thin laosy cable to wired up, RCA cable also cannot make it, ground cable also anyhow run. So upon laying new

Cable the ws also swap my 2 amps position and also the end connector all remove and redo again.

I think is a good investment, do it once and for all. Now my ice is sweet and nice.

Just for reference, I spend 200 for new cabling + 150 for labor. Waited for 2 hours.

Can consider to give to expert

[Cephas]

Quoted service charge can vary for different workshops, 80 ~ 120 for the check + labour for some. New cable depend on brand & quality you are looking at.

 

Most importantly, for the $ paid, you must feel worth it to do it with the particular workshop which u trust.

 

Time = money, if you spending few weeks or months to get the result you want....it does make sense to let the workshop earn their keep.

[Detach8]

Well, at work time=money, but at home when you spend most of the time watching TV, time is not really money. I found the DIY enriching... I mean, if I can't fix the cabling I'll just live with it but I am sure with some perseverance I'll get to the bottom of it sooner or later.

 

I don't think thin cables are the problem. Most cars stock cabling are thin and pretty much "laoya" but they operate everything fine from speakers to motorized seat adjustments.

 

It's the CONNECTIONS that cause all the problems. Poor connectors can increase resistance and poor cabling layout can introduce EMF especially if you wire them near power cables, causing noise, static, etc.

 

I'll post more updates as I dig deeper into this pile of mess.

[KaKiLang]

Well I can pull almost everything except the seats... the screws are too tight for me to undo and I don't have the necessary tools to do it. As long as I can remove my seat, I can lift the carpet already... and the next step is to remove my HU which I have the steps but have not gone to do it yet.

 

I prefer to DIY.. for two reasons. One is to learn... which to me is the most important. Second is the money... don't want to pay a shop a few hundred just to fix this mess. If that's the case I rather dekit and revert to stock!

 

Bro, same here, I just redo up my ice, waste alot of time figuring out but it pays to diy and more satisfying knowing that you did check every damm thing and the sound comes out sweet. Same here my first time spent two weekends (both sat and sun). Luckily my seats are easier just box spanners.

 

Theres a shop up at Sim Lim Tower upper floor carpark premises, there are a few jiu hu kia free lancer wiremen stationed there. I remembered paying 60 or 80 bucks for my old car but I got to buy my own wires and ice from shops below but make sure to stay and watch them. Just for your diying info, if you are working dead into the night and short of accessories go to mustafa they are 24 hours and not too exp. And most of the time I check the youtube for solutions.

 

Cheers to your DIY, I know its satisfying, and when my power window got jammed I know where to approach.

Edited February 3, 2012 by KaKiLang

[Cephas]

Well, at work time=money, but at home when you spend most of the time watching TV, time is not really money. I found the DIY enriching... I mean, if I can't fix the cabling I'll just live with it but I am sure with some perseverance I'll get to the bottom of it sooner or later.

 

I don't think thin cables are the problem. Most cars stock cabling are thin and pretty much "laoya" but they operate everything fine from speakers to motorized seat adjustments.

 

It's the CONNECTIONS that cause all the problems. Poor connectors can increase resistance and poor cabling layout can introduce EMF especially if you wire them near power cables, causing noise, static, etc.

 

I'll post more updates as I dig deeper into this pile of mess.

 

 

oh ok. I thinking in the line having a family & need to spend time with the kids (i guess you are single, pls correct me if my guess is wrong)... so time at home, depend on how you want to spend, much depend on your priority.

Edited February 3, 2012 by Cephas

[Detach8]

oh ok. I thinking in the line having a family & need to spend time with the kids (i guess you are single, pls correct me if my guess is wrong)... so time at home, depend on how you want to spend, much depend on your priority.

 

Married bro, but no kids yet

[Detach8]

Bro, same here, I just redo up my ice, waste alot of time figuring out but it pays to diy and more satisfying knowing that you did check every damm thing and the sound comes out sweet. Same here my first time spent two weekends (both sat and sun). Luckily my seats are easier just box spanners.

 

Theres a shop up at Sim Lim Tower upper floor carpark premises, there are a few jiu hu kia free lancer wiremen stationed there. I remembered paying 60 or 80 bucks for my old car but I got to buy my own wires and ice from shops below but make sure to stay and watch them. Just for your diying info, if you are working dead into the night and short of accessories go to mustafa they are 24 hours and not too exp. And most of the time I check the youtube for solutions.

 

Cheers to your DIY, I know its satisfying, and when my power window got jammed I know where to approach.

 

Thanks bro! Well my seat is a typical hex wrench. I actually went to buy a socket screw from Homefix but it's so damn tight I couldn't undo it and the two screws on the rear is in such a narrow place I can't even turn it!

[Cephas]

Married bro, but no kids yet

 

 

ok...pls keep un-screwing...i meant your car seat bolts & nuts...

 

 

[Cephas]

Thanks bro! Well my seat is a typical hex wrench. I actually went to buy a socket screw from Homefix but it's so damn tight I couldn't undo it and the two screws on the rear is in such a narrow place I can't even turn it!

 

is it possible to extend the arm of the wrench so as to increase the turning force?

 

[Detach8]

Not at the moment. I might try again when I have more strength...

[KaKiLang]

Thanks bro! Well my seat is a typical hex wrench. I actually went to buy a socket screw from Homefix but it's so damn tight I couldn't undo it and the two screws on the rear is in such a narrow place I can't even turn it!

 

double post, sory

Edited February 3, 2012 by KaKiLang