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Hyundai Avante 1.6A Maintenance Cost


BengGaBoy
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Yes. I have done the check, they rebound in a controlled manner but is much more firm compare to my previous units and the new units vertical movement is much lesser than previous too.

 

These shocks I bought from stockists are new.

 

Because this is my first set of rear shocks in 10 years, I can't remember how the rear shocks feel when the car was new. My term on these rear shocks "bouncy" is in terms of firm, not wallowy like a boat. Handling definitely is better but it feels like I am on sports shocks.

 

Thank you for the advice.

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Yes. I have done the check, they rebound in a controlled manner but is much more firm compare to my previous units and the new units vertical movement is much lesser than previous too.

 

These shocks I bought from stockists are new.

 

Because this is my first set of rear shocks in 10 years, I can't remember how the rear shocks feel when the car was new. My term on these rear shocks "bouncy" is in terms of firm, not wallowy like a boat. Handling definitely is better but it feels like I am on sports shocks.

 

Thank you for the advice. ð

Oh then no problem lar bro... it's like that... we're the drivers... we hardly sit in the rear so we don't know how it feels like at the back. Today I sat in the back of my car for only the second or third time since I bought my car in 2016... my feeling was - Oh, the seats not so comfortable compared to the front seat, the back angle not correct... no wonder my mother always say wrong angle for her... ha ha... and my dad in both seats in the rear and often also drives my car says the rear soundproofing not as good as the front... heh heh...
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(edited)

Oh then no problem lar bro... it's like that... we're the drivers... we hardly sit in the rear so we don't know how it feels like at the back. Today I sat in the back of my car for only the second or third time since I bought my car in 2016... my feeling was - Oh, the seats not so comfortable compared to the front seat, the back angle not correct... no wonder my mother always say wrong angle for her... ha ha... and my dad in both seats in the rear and often also drives my car says the rear soundproofing not as good as the front... heh heh...

Actually from the driver seat, I can feel the firmness of the rear shocks after change immediately because the compression when going over humps is much lesser than the old shocks.

 

That is why I am asking if any Avante owners who changed their ride shocks before experience such firmness. It doesn't feel as comfortable compare to before change but handling is definitely sharper with less sink in on acceleration and nose dive on braking. Haha.

Edited by Heartbreakid
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Uploaded.  

Hard to hear the gear change sound from the video.

But you see the RPM dip 4 times

 

The last dip is torque converter locking up.

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I am experiencing vibration when accelerating from 60km/h ~ 75km/h.

 

Cruise at 60km/h, then press accelerator to pick up speed without gear change, it will begin to vibrate violently from the engine bay into the cabin.

 

I had replaced both drive shafts, both front bearings, plugs, ignition coil and coil wiring harness.

 

Mine is auto.

 

Any idea?

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The last dip is torque converter locking up.

Thanks for the input.

Can share more advice on this?   As the car also got gear transmission issue 

It jerks if did not drive for prolong period at this point

 

1st change 1-2 

2nd change 2-3   <------- Jerk here

3rd change. 3-4

4th change. 4-5

 

Maybe is related?

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Thanks for the input.

Can share more advice on this?   As the car also got gear transmission issue 

It jerks if did not drive for prolong period at this point

 

1st change 1-2 

2nd change 2-3   <------- Jerk here

3rd change. 3-4

4th change. 4-5

 

Maybe is related?

 

No. It's not related.

 

You might want to have your gearbox flushed and use proper ATF, to begin with.

 

Mine will give me a kick when downshift from 4 to 3 on high speed kick down, but the frequency of it gets less after I did 3 rounds of fluid change within 15,000km.

 

The ATF condition when I first got the car was quite coarse, like having sand. Now it's much smoother.

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Thanks for the input.

Can share more advice on this?   As the car also got gear transmission issue 

It jerks if did not drive for prolong period at this point

 

1st change 1-2 

2nd change 2-3   <------- Jerk here

3rd change. 3-4

4th change. 4-5

 

Maybe is related?

 

This usually is problem with solenoid in the valve body.

 

Some clean and fresh ATF might help improve the operation of it but will not cure it.

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This usually is problem with solenoid in the valve body.

 

Some clean and fresh ATF might help improve the operation of it but will not cure it.

Thanks for the insight . I went to a couple of workshop , 1 suspect is electronic board . The other quite sure is ecu.

Did atf oil change . Atf filter also changed . Same issue but getting worse as the months went by . Now almost everyday when stationary , change gear from n to d, car also slight jerk

 

Instead of trying luck , most likely will go to Komoco solve once and for all

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Thanks for the insight . I went to a couple of workshop , 1 suspect is electronic board . The other quite sure is ecu.

Did atf oil change . Atf filter also changed . Same issue but getting worse as the months went by . Now almost everyday when stationary , change gear from n to d, car also slight jerk

 

Instead of trying luck , most likely will go to Komoco solve once and for all

 

I hope we are talking the same symptom:-

 

1. At stationary, it hesitate to change gear.

For me, when I shift from P->R, there is a delay before it engaged.

Also delay in N->D.

This is definitely solenoid problem.

 

2. Kicking / knocking when engaging D --> R.

This happens when I want to reverse into parking lot.

Shift from D->R like immediately after car fully stopped will sometimes give a violent knock.

If I wait for 2-3 seconds after full stop and shift, it's OK. So I am practicing this now.

 

3. Kicking / knocking during highspeed downshift from 4->3.

Usually happens after cruising for long time on 4th,

then floor accelerator to pick up speed for overtaking.

 

 

My workshop also noticed (1) and (2) above when they move my car around during servicing. They gave me feedback about it, but since they are not gearbox specialist which they openly tell all their customer, they didn't offer repair advise.

 

What I had done so far:

a. On receiving the car (127,000km on clock, genuine) --> Replace ATF and filter.

b. At 135,000km, feeling all above symptom --> Replace ATF + 1 bottle additive / cleaner.

c. At 148,000km, after plentiful of instigating the kicking of gearbox (to get the solenoid work hard with cleaner) --> Replace the ATF.

 

The symptom is very much relieved and gear change is very smooth now. Still get the knock but it's rare now, and it's very mild knock for (3) above.

 

To reduce cost, I bought Hyundai ATF from Malaysia HyunKia or Mobis stockist for RM85 / 4 liter pack. The additive / cleaner cost me RM35. I still have a bottle of additive in my trunk, with 2 pack of ATF. If you keen to try, I can always pass to you.

 

To me, it's no harm trying the additive with the intention of overhaul the gearbox if all doesn't go well. Going back to Komoco for a solenoid problem, means changing the entire valve body, if they do that at all. No harm asking though. However, I am ear marking workshops that does gearbox reconditioning in case I need to drop it there for such a job. Will compare to cost of replacing valve body at Komoco.

 

BTW, my ride is i30cw but it has the same engine / gearbox / mechanical as the Avante.

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I hope we are talking the same symptom:-

 

1. At stationary, it hesitate to change gear.

For me, when I shift from P->R, there is a delay before it engaged.

Also delay in N->D.

This is definitely solenoid problem.

 

2. Kicking / knocking when engaging D --> R.

This happens when I want to reverse into parking lot.

Shift from D->R like immediately after car fully stopped will sometimes give a violent knock.

If I wait for 2-3 seconds after full stop and shift, it's OK. So I am practicing this now.

 

3. Kicking / knocking during highspeed downshift from 4->3.

Usually happens after cruising for long time on 4th,

then floor accelerator to pick up speed for overtaking.

 

 

My workshop also noticed (1) and (2) above when they move my car around during servicing. They gave me feedback about it, but since they are not gearbox specialist which they openly tell all their customer, they didn't offer repair advise.

 

What I had done so far:

a. On receiving the car (127,000km on clock, genuine) --> Replace ATF and filter.

b. At 135,000km, feeling all above symptom --> Replace ATF + 1 bottle additive / cleaner.

c. At 148,000km, after plentiful of instigating the kicking of gearbox (to get the solenoid work hard with cleaner) --> Replace the ATF.

 

The symptom is very much relieved and gear change is very smooth now. Still get the knock but it's rare now, and it's very mild knock for (3) above.

 

To reduce cost, I bought Hyundai ATF from Malaysia HyunKia or Mobis stockist for RM85 / 4 liter pack. The additive / cleaner cost me RM35. I still have a bottle of additive in my trunk, with 2 pack of ATF. If you keen to try, I can always pass to you.

 

To me, it's no harm trying the additive with the intention of overhaul the gearbox if all doesn't go well. Going back to Komoco for a solenoid problem, means changing the entire valve body, if they do that at all. No harm asking though. However, I am ear marking workshops that does gearbox reconditioning in case I need to drop it there for such a job. Will compare to cost of replacing valve body at Komoco.

 

BTW, my ride is i30cw but it has the same engine / gearbox / mechanical as the Avante.

 

Don't know how to edit my post above, but © should be 138,000km and not 148,000km...

 

 

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I am trading in my 2009 Avante for another used car. The body still has a value of $1k.

 

So if you are not renewing COE, avoid sending directly to the scrapyard to de-register.

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Sent to AD and here are the parts that need to be replaced.

 

- ECU

- Valve Body

- Valve Filter

- Valve Wiring

 

Any advice if external workshop can handle this at fraction of the cost?
Cos AD will cost around 4k plus. Think will be 5k plus after GST.

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Sent to AD and here are the parts that need to be replaced.

 

- ECU

- Valve Body

- Valve Filter

- Valve Wiring

 

Any advice if external workshop can handle this at fraction of the cost?

Cos AD will cost around 4k plus. Think will be 5k plus after GST.

How old is the car?
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