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Hyundai Avante 1.6A Maintenance Cost


BengGaBoy
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Any electronic board inside the Gearbox? From the way the mechanic say, seems to be inside the box.

When I changed my ECU. the ECU will have different processor for engine and gear box. You can easily differentiate them by comparing manual car ECU vs Auto car ECU.

I don't know whether any pcb inside gearbox but very unlikely. If ECU repair they has to do the diagnosis by taking the ECU from your car and plug to a computer to know the exact issue. If they are not really sure, then cannot simply say the board is spoilt. But all my hypothesis are only by observation. I am not a mechanic. But I ask lot of logical questions to mechanic and try to get answer. Some are very interested to explain others take it as offensive whether I am doubting them. Checking an ECU will not take more than 20 mins

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When I changed my ECU. the ECU will have different processor for engine and gear box. You can easily differentiate them by comparing manual car ECU vs Auto car ECU.

I don't know whether any pcb inside gearbox but very unlikely. If ECU repair they has to do the diagnosis by taking the ECU from your car and plug to a computer to know the exact issue. If they are not really sure, then cannot simply say the board is spoilt. But all my hypothesis are only by observation. I am not a mechanic. But I ask lot of logical questions to mechanic and try to get answer. Some are very interested to explain others take it as offensive whether I am doubting them. Checking an ECU will not take more than 20 mins

to confirm ECU problem, they need to install the "problem" ECU onto another car and see if problem follows. It is not a simple plug into computer.

Many dealers don;t do that. Its very troublesome; sometimes difficult to find same car model. Definitely > 20 min. Sometimes they connect OBD connector to car check for troublecode. If there is no Check Engine Light (MIL), it might not be ECU problem as no trouble code.

If there is trouble code, it might also not be ECU problem. ECU is just responsible to flag out the troublecode. The real problem might be something else.

ECU is the most easiest to replace, so most dealers will recommend changing the ECU and will proceed to claim warranty if ECU is < 5 year old. Most don;t bother to verify the problem.

If ECU is > 5 years old, dealers can't claim warranty. dealers will charge a premium to change new ECU, which may take some time to order.

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to confirm ECU problem, they need to install the "problem" ECU onto another car and see if problem follows. It is not a simple plug into computer.

Many dealers don;t do that. Its very troublesome; sometimes difficult to find same car model. Definitely > 20 min. Sometimes they connect OBD connector to car check for troublecode. If there is no Check Engine Light (MIL), it might not be ECU problem as no trouble code.

If there is trouble code, it might also not be ECU problem. ECU is just responsible to flag out the troublecode. The real problem might be something else.

ECU is the most easiest to replace, so most dealers will recommend changing the ECU and will proceed to claim warranty if ECU is < 5 year old. Most don;t bother to verify the problem.

If ECU is > 5 years old, dealers can't claim warranty. dealers will charge a premium to change new ECU, which may take some time to order.

 

Installing in another car way of trouble shooting is very primitive. Plugging to computer is not by every workshop cup of tea, only a handful of workshop have the core ECU troubleshooting capability with specific software. I am talking about pure ECU troubleshooting not the issue of the car. If ECU troubleshooting, 20 mins is sufficient to decide whether your ECU is fine or not and if it is in good shape, then it is absurd to change it and the genuine workshop wouldn\t recommend and moreover, changing ECU is not going to fix the issue {if the issue is not due to ECU} . I am talking about the workshop where they can service up to PCB level which is again more than swapping a ECU.. 

I took a specialized workshop for ECU repair, since my regular workshop was struggling with OBD and other guessing type, but usually I am against changing anything which they are not 100% sure.

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Just to Confirm this for Avante 2009 Auto, the gear will change 4 times max right? My dashboard does not show the current level.

 

 

1st change  1-2

2nd change  2-3

3rd change.  3-4

4th change.  4-5

 

Correct?

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Just to Confirm this for Avante 2009 Auto, the gear will change 4 times max right? My dashboard does not show the current level.

 

 

1st change 1-2

2nd change 2-3

3rd change. 3-4

4th change. 4-5

 

Correct?

old avante only a 4spd AT
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what make you feel there a 5 change?

4 change from stopping positioning to cruising speed at 80km/hr

From the sound and from seeing the rpm

Edited by Newowner2009
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4 change from stopping positioning to cruising speed at 80km/hr

From the sound and from seeing the rpm

means when you reach 80km/hr there another dip of rpm?

anyway what's the rpm ?

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means when you reach 80km/hr there another dip of rpm?

anyway what's the rpm ?

the last change not at 80km/hr.  Around 60.

 

Depend on right foot. If heavy, 2.5 rpm will change gear.  Else 2 .

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the last change not at 80km/hr.  Around 60.

 

Depend on right foot. If heavy, 2.5 rpm will change gear.  Else 2 .

 

 

then we really dont know how you feel it.. may be you have the video of it ?

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4 change from stopping positioning to cruising speed at 80km/hr

From the sound and from seeing the rpm

I think somewhere in this forum someone did mention something about torque converter locking up... I described a subtle lurch in the gearbox although the gear didn't change (my Sonata has the gear numbers displayed in manual mode) yet the car seemed to speed up or slow down (depending on whether you're accelerating or decelerating)... one of your four changes might be this thing...
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Hi all,

 

i'm a car noob who just got my avante from KM 2 weeks ago. These few days i noticed my engine seems to be vibrating especially when its at 30-60km/hr. May i ask if anyone knows what may be the issue or anyone experienced the same thing?

 

My 1000km servicing is gonna be due in 1 more week. I think they wont be checking this issue during the servicing right? 

 

 

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Hi all,

 

i'm a car noob who just got my avante from KM 2 weeks ago. These few days i noticed my engine seems to be vibrating especially when its at 30-60km/hr. May i ask if anyone knows what may be the issue or anyone experienced the same thing?

 

My 1000km servicing is gonna be due in 1 more week. I think they wont be checking this issue during the servicing right?

You're in the wrong thread bro... post in the 2019 Elantra thread... that thread was started before Komoco decided to use the Avante name plate instead of Elantra.
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Anyone replaced their Avante HD shock absorbers? Can share how does the ride feels? I have replaced front and rear, and found the ride has become firmer and the rear ones are on the bouncy side. They are genuine units from stockists. Thank you.

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(edited)

Anyone replaced their Avante HD shock absorbers? Can share how does the ride feels? I have replaced front and rear, and found the ride has become firmer and the rear ones are on the bouncy side. They are genuine units from stockists. Thank you.

What you can do is to press down hard on the boot to compress the suspension, and see how the car responds... if the rear shocks are any good, the car should rebound in a controlled Fashion... there should not be any bouncing at all... if there is bouncing, it means the shocks are not working... probably leaking... you may want to go back to the workshop you got these fixed at and ask them to check the rear shock seals again. Just to ensure they're not leaking... I assume the shocks you received are brand new stock? Did you check if they are old existing stock or newly manufactured stock? I think should have date of manufacture printed on the boxes... in any case, the stockist should be able to tell you... if the shocks leak or aren't good, let the stockist know, they'll probably compensate you and claim from Hyundai or the supplier... Edited by teomingern
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What you can do is to press down hard on the boot to compress the suspension, and see how the car responds... if the rear shocks are any good, the car should rebound in a controlled Fashion... there should not be any bouncing at all... if there is bouncing, it means the shocks are not working... probably leaking... you may want to go back to the workshop you got these fixed at and ask them to check the rear shock seals again. Just to ensure they're not leaking... I assume the shocks you received are brand new stock? Did you check if they are old existing stock or newly manufactured stock? I think should have date of manufacture printed on the boxes... in any case, the stockist should be able to tell you... if the shocks leak or aren't good, let the stockist know, they'll probably compensate you and claim from Hyundai or the supplier...

Yes. I have done the check, they rebound in a controlled manner but is much more firm compare to my previous units and the new units vertical movement is much lesser than previous too.

 

These shocks I bought from stockists are new.

 

Because this is my first set of rear shocks in 10 years, I can't remember how the rear shocks feel when the car was new. My term on these rear shocks "bouncy" is in terms of firm, not wallowy like a boat. Handling definitely is better but it feels like I am on sports shocks.

 

Thank you for the advice.

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