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Used Car Dealers Feedback (Part 2)!


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14 hours ago, Bensky said:

Bottom line - If the guy had been honest, he wouldn’t have chosen to be a used car salesman.

Maybe we can avoid generalizing occupations. Perhaps most of us don't even know the actual modus operandi of used car dealerships enough to understand the rationale behind the actions. 

Just because most of them are crooks, doesn't mean all of them are. 

Anyway, happy new year to everyone 🎉

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17 hours ago, Bensky said:

Bottom line - If the guy had been honest, he wouldn’t have chosen to be a used car salesman.

You are generalising base on occupation. 

Buyer also bear certain responsibility. Realistic in one expectation. Do your homeworks.

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On 12/30/2020 at 8:41 PM, mesmeriz3 said:

Putting this post up to rant about a used car dealer I purchased from recently. Prior to the car purchase, I viewed and tested the functions of the car, and brought it for a 3rd party inspection. The car had a couple of issues which the dealer agreed to fix. This included the engine and transmission fluid leaks, noisy turbo etc. The car came with a functioning bluetooth music option as well which was tested. When I took over the car, the bluetooth music option was no longer available on the iDrive UI anymore. I had informed the dealer about it and he said that this is considered under WEAR AND TEAR which is absolutely not covered by the company. How ridiculous is this? During the purchase it was agreed upon that the car comes with these functions and for it to suddenly disappear the moment I take over should not be a wear and tear issue at all. The bluetooth call and phonebook functions were all ok, except for the music function which is missing. My suspicion is that when the car was sent for repairs on the issues that was surfaced, they MIGHT have reset the module using the diagnostic kit which resulted in the missing bluetooth audio function. 

Another gripe I have with the company is that they changed the original carplate holder to a holder with their company's name printed on it without my knowledge. Prior to the purchase I took a photo of the car which did show evidence that it should come with the original holder. When I raised it to the dealer, all he had to say was that this is a standard procedure and if I want to take back the original carplate holder, he will have to void the free servicing package that came along with the car purchase. I sent him a picture of the T&C which does not state this at all but he still continued with his dumb threats. He says that the servicing workshop needs the company's carplate holder for them to identify that this car was indeed purchased from them. How dumb is that? I could have simply swapped the carplate holder to another car and drive in to claim free servicing. 

Which dealer? Alot dealer now use their own number plate holder nowadays. 

When you say iDrive I assume is beemer. Can go back pml to get stock firmware or smth unless yours is a PI unit 

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On 1/3/2021 at 9:11 PM, Mancypher said:

Which dealer? Alot dealer now use their own number plate holder nowadays. 

When you say iDrive I assume is beemer. Can go back pml to get stock firmware or smth unless yours is a PI unit 

Yeah its a beemer. I’ll see what i can do with this but since the car is left with a few more years of coe i am thinking of accepting my fate :(. I found ways to bypass the bluetooth music issue (using aux cable/ bluetooth to fm transmitter, etc). However im really inclined to write in to small claims regarding this car and the dealership. It’s with gen capital fyi. Oh and just yesterday the fan belt, battery and water pump broke. Just on my third week with this car. Fml.

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8 hours ago, mesmeriz3 said:

Yeah its a beemer. I’ll see what i can do with this but since the car is left with a few more years of coe i am thinking of accepting my fate :(. I found ways to bypass the bluetooth music issue (using aux cable/ bluetooth to fm transmitter, etc). However im really inclined to write in to small claims regarding this car and the dealership. It’s with gen capital fyi. Oh and just yesterday the fan belt, battery and water pump broke. Just on my third week with this car. Fml.

Fan belt, battery n water pump normal wear and tear. What's not normal will be your lower arms n ball joint noisy for a less than 10 Yr old car unless really high mileage. 

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D&L Auto Trading Enterprise 

 

Like to share my terrible and unfortunate experience with a used car dealer,

I first purchased a coe car from this dealer 2 years ago, was given lots of assurance how good the car is, and as you would have guessed, it was totally the opposite of what Darren from D&L Auto Trading Enterprise at Singapore Textile Centre promised.

 

I took it soon myself that it was myself who trusted his promises and stories how I shouldn’t waste my time to bring the car to a check as he claim workshops will take kopi money from him and will tell lies to me. So we send it to STA for a check, gotten grade B with report on slight oil stains at oil sump, he assure was due to maintenance of car and car is old.

 

I later know that it’s a practice for this company to send car for a clean up before allowing potential customer to check preventIng chance of oil leak or defect detection. And I also recall how he would always lit a cigarette when we start car to throw the white smoke smell of a leaking car away. Still I take it as my fault for not checking and did not take it up with him or argue.

 

Two and a half year later, I’ve done up a lot of repairs and the car is finally in a decent condition, so I decided to sell this car. I went to sg car mart and got a lot of company rep wanted to sell my car, like wise for Darren, he approached me.

 

Due to myself needing to be away due to work and had no time I only trusted the person who sold me this car, thus I handed my car key to him. Asking for 30k.

 

Later the day I received a call from him, telling my there is major leak on my car and he had to repair, so he will give me 28k net, but will sell higher to mark up for his repair cost, and I agreed since I had no time to handle the “repair”.

 

After sometime I was told that there were interested buyers and my car was sold, so I signed the paper work.

 

Then I received a message from his finance on the total sum I will received upon full settlement. I was puzzled on the amount since my finance company has provided me a different amount for my full settlement. When I call my car finance they claim they never charge any admin fee, and so I immediately call Daren. Which then I was told there is an additional admin fee of $300 on my sale purchase due to finance dispatch and admin.

 

I was furious since we already agreed on a net 28k to be received, but there was additional admin charge thereafter. On reflection, I was also con to sell cheaper by 2k already. When confronted he offered a $100 discount on admin, to which made me more furious and disappointed, a flawed car covered up, unscrupulous sales tactics and admin charges. 

 

I’ve sold and bought 6-7 cars before and had never heart of this, so I would like to share my story here so everyone can learn and avoid such unscrupulous dealers and spread the word, only then we can prevent them from leeching our hard earn money and prevent future heartaches.

 

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1 hour ago, Hamburger said:

It's not easy to be cheated twice. Hopefully no third time. 

To be cheated twice by same party must be a willing victim.

 

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11 hours ago, Volvobrick said:

To be cheated twice by same party must be a willing victim.

 

Fool me once shame on you.

Fool me twice shame on me.

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Hello everyone! I'm new here (and to buying a car too!) 😀

(Just realized there's a used car thread somewhere else here, but I'll ask here in case there's also solid advice!)

I have a scenario/situation which I'd love to get much more experienced drivers' advice:

- Can only afford/willing to down max 10K

- Installments-wise, as long as I can keep it to under around the $800 range, I'm okay

- Looking for a hatchback as my first car (I think I probably can learn and manage from that as my first ride)

The part I'm not sure of, is how used car dealers offer their in-house flexi loans. Anyone know what their interests are like?

For eg. just using this listing as discussion sake: https://www.sgcarmart.com/used_cars/info.php?ID=949137 (5years+ left)

If I'm willing to down 10K (less than the required 30%), how will that work out? Also, there's so many $3888 and $0 stuff floating everywhere.. but I wouldn't say I'm a big fan of these types of promos... willing to down, just can't meet the 30% that's all

Truly appreciate everyone's advice! 🙏

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1 hour ago, sinistro29 said:

Hello everyone! I'm new here (and to buying a car too!) 😀

(Just realized there's a used car thread somewhere else here, but I'll ask here in case there's also solid advice!)

I have a scenario/situation which I'd love to get much more experienced drivers' advice:

- Can only afford/willing to down max 10K

- Installments-wise, as long as I can keep it to under around the $800 range, I'm okay

- Looking for a hatchback as my first car (I think I probably can learn and manage from that as my first ride)

The part I'm not sure of, is how used car dealers offer their in-house flexi loans. Anyone know what their interests are like?

For eg. just using this listing as discussion sake: https://www.sgcarmart.com/used_cars/info.php?ID=949137 (5years+ left)

If I'm willing to down 10K (less than the required 30%), how will that work out? Also, there's so many $3888 and $0 stuff floating everywhere.. but I wouldn't say I'm a big fan of these types of promos... willing to down, just can't meet the 30% that's all

Truly appreciate everyone's advice! 🙏

Maybe I will recommend you to get COE car instead if your budget is that limited.

https://www.sgcarmart.com/used_cars/info.php?ID=958676&DL=1000

Selling price - $16,800

Downpay - $6,000

Monthly instalment - $400.

The downside is there might be some repair here and there. But do only what is needed, since this car is left with 3 yrs COE. and after that cannot renew liao.

You can also start saving like $500/mth for 3 years while you are driving this car (that will be $18K) and after which, when you scrap the car, you can go shop for another car.

 

Since this is your first car,  I think it is wise for you to get something below what you are asking for. So after you drive, you will know exactly what car fit your lifestyle. Don't get yourself into debt just by owning a car.

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17 minutes ago, kobayashiGT said:

Maybe I will recommend you to get COE car instead if your budget is that limited.

https://www.sgcarmart.com/used_cars/info.php?ID=958676&DL=1000

Selling price - $16,800

Downpay - $6,000

Monthly instalment - $400.

The downside is there might be some repair here and there. But do only what is needed, since this car is left with 3 yrs COE. and after that cannot renew liao.

You can also start saving like $500/mth for 3 years while you are driving this car (that will be $18K) and after which, when you scrap the car, you can go shop for another car.

 

Since this is your first car,  I think it is wise for you to get something below what you are asking for. So after you drive, you will know exactly what car fit your lifestyle. Don't get yourself into debt just by owning a car.

Thanks! That's actually another way to do it I guess! Might consider that too actually 😃

Hmm but trying to explore the PARF route if possible also - some too old I scared GG the 3 years that it's left 🙁

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1 hour ago, sinistro29 said:

Thanks! That's actually another way to do it I guess! Might consider that too actually 😃

Hmm but trying to explore the PARF route if possible also - some too old I scared GG the 3 years that it's left 🙁

Hyundai Avante should be a no frills car. The owner before you might also just drive only. Don't go and huny for mod heavy car like civic, fit, elantra kind. That one i won't recommend.

Since you just starting to own a car, just treat it as a mean of transport. When you start to appreciate cars like all the old timers here, then we teach you how to mod. hahaha.

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5 hours ago, sinistro29 said:

Hello everyone! I'm new here (and to buying a car too!) 😀

(Just realized there's a used car thread somewhere else here, but I'll ask here in case there's also solid advice!)

I have a scenario/situation which I'd love to get much more experienced drivers' advice:

- Can only afford/willing to down max 10K

- Installments-wise, as long as I can keep it to under around the $800 range, I'm okay

- Looking for a hatchback as my first car (I think I probably can learn and manage from that as my first ride)

The part I'm not sure of, is how used car dealers offer their in-house flexi loans. Anyone know what their interests are like?

For eg. just using this listing as discussion sake: https://www.sgcarmart.com/used_cars/info.php?ID=949137 (5years+ left)

If I'm willing to down 10K (less than the required 30%), how will that work out? Also, there's so many $3888 and $0 stuff floating everywhere.. but I wouldn't say I'm a big fan of these types of promos... willing to down, just can't meet the 30% that's all

Truly appreciate everyone's advice! 🙏

Honest opinion here and not trying to pour cold water on your wish to buy a car. Some questions you need to ask yourself based on your own quotes:

"Can only afford/willing to down max 10K" - If this is the maximum cash outlay that you are willing to put down, how is your liquidity after that? Given this amount, your best bet are either COE cars or those with 2-3 years left. These cars potentially require a sum of money put aside for repairs as well. 

"Installments-wise, as long as I can keep it to under around the $800 range, I'm okay" - Have you also considered the other costs related to driving like parking, ERP, petrol? What about the annual costs such as insurance, road tax?

"willing to down, just can't meet the 30% that's all" - Last but not least, do you really need a car, or do you simply want a car?

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21 hours ago, iamahbee said:

Honest opinion here and not trying to pour cold water on your wish to buy a car. Some questions you need to ask yourself based on your own quotes:

"Can only afford/willing to down max 10K" - If this is the maximum cash outlay that you are willing to put down, how is your liquidity after that? Given this amount, your best bet are either COE cars or those with 2-3 years left. These cars potentially require a sum of money put aside for repairs as well. 

"Installments-wise, as long as I can keep it to under around the $800 range, I'm okay" - Have you also considered the other costs related to driving like parking, ERP, petrol? What about the annual costs such as insurance, road tax?

"willing to down, just can't meet the 30% that's all" - Last but not least, do you really need a car, or do you simply want a car?

Thanks for the reply 😃

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