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Used Car Dealers Feedback (Part 2)!


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Can I check with the forum folks here if you have encountered such issue.

I have purchased a car from a used car dealer. Did all my checks, discussed the pricing, downpayment, car loan etc.

Done all my payments (Downpayment + 1 month installment + admin fee) and have been driving the car for a month. When I checked my bank statement and called the bank, they highlighted that the 1st month installment has NOT been made. 

I texted the car dealer on mulitple occations and gave all kinds of excuses despite multiple reminders. I have made payment to the bank for the 1st month and have requested for a refund of the $$ from the used car dealer, but they have been dragging their feet.

Are there any ways to get the $$ back without going to CASE? It seems that CASE also drags their feet with these kinda cases.

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1 minute ago, Banz86 said:

Can I check with the forum folks here if you have encountered such issue.

I have purchased a car from a used car dealer. Did all my checks, discussed the pricing, downpayment, car loan etc.

Done all my payments (Downpayment + 1 month installment + admin fee) and have been driving the car for a month. When I checked my bank statement and called the bank, they highlighted that the 1st month installment has NOT been made. 

I texted the car dealer on mulitple occations and gave all kinds of excuses despite multiple reminders. I have made payment to the bank for the 1st month and have requested for a refund of the $$ from the used car dealer, but they have been dragging their feet.

Are there any ways to get the $$ back without going to CASE? It seems that CASE also drags their feet with these kinda cases.

Another more worrying thing is has the car ownership been transferred to you? 

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5 minutes ago, PSP415 said:

Another more worrying thing is has the car ownership been transferred to you? 

Oh yeah, forgot to mention this. Yes the ownership has been transferred to me and I have confirmed it on onemotoring.

I really don't understand the need to withhold payment to the bank and get themselves in trouble with CASE or lawyers (if people are angry enough to do so)

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26 minutes ago, Banz86 said:

Can I check with the forum folks here if you have encountered such issue.

I have purchased a car from a used car dealer. Did all my checks, discussed the pricing, downpayment, car loan etc.

Done all my payments (Downpayment + 1 month installment + admin fee) and have been driving the car for a month. When I checked my bank statement and called the bank, they highlighted that the 1st month installment has NOT been made. 

I texted the car dealer on mulitple occations and gave all kinds of excuses despite multiple reminders. I have made payment to the bank for the 1st month and have requested for a refund of the $$ from the used car dealer, but they have been dragging their feet.

Are there any ways to get the $$ back without going to CASE? It seems that CASE also drags their feet with these kinda cases.

You have an upper hand on this case if you want to bring this up CASE or the court.

The dealer might be tight on their cashflow. Just make sure you get back your refund and move on. Blacklist this dealer forever.

Can PM me which dealer? So I can avoid them also. 🤣

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On 1/17/2021 at 1:34 AM, ismailmiller said:

I drove 2009 vios before. If you want a good vios, get one with only 1 owner and possibly around 100000km clocked at the 10th year. 

The best time to buy a car is when you are not in a rush and have done thorough research on the car market and model. 

Always get a mechanic with you when you view the car especially for a first time buyer. Pretend to the sales person that is your friend who is just accompanying you. 

For a 10 year old Vios I would recommend checking if they are using stock tires and rims. Try to get one that never mod before. Request for a very quiet tire like Michelin primacy 4 as the soundproofing is horrible. The car was indeed easy to maintain for me but I couldn't stand the horrible tire noise even after changing new tires. That is the only main problem. 

Most probably you need to get ready to change timing belt and water pump and some minor wear and tear stuff which you can buy at Stockist to fix. 

Come to think of it, I rather you get Axio. I think it looks nicer and it's a Corolla. Better build car which is made in Japan. 

Axio has melty dash. 

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Bought a Toyota wish from a used car dealer.

Mileage stated 130k for a COE car which I feel still ok.

To cut the story short as all procedures are normal.

The car has some weird sound after collecting so I proceed to my workshop instead of theirs.

1. Flywheel crack - Mechanic saying flywheel can crack is quite difficult

2. Aircon compressor dead 2 weeks later

3. Gearbox dead after 6 months 

4. Engine dead after gearbox changed

With all these dead things, mileage should be super high rather than 130k, so I believe the mileage is adjusted at least more than 100k.

This is so crazy and I confirm won't go there forever.

By the way, all these repairs and replacement fees cost me an additional at least 10k added together. Geezzz

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23 hours ago, Kelvintay11 said:

Bought a Toyota wish from a used car dealer.

Mileage stated 130k for a COE car which I feel still ok.

To cut the story short as all procedures are normal.

The car has some weird sound after collecting so I proceed to my workshop instead of theirs.

1. Flywheel crack - Mechanic saying flywheel can crack is quite difficult

2. Aircon compressor dead 2 weeks later

3. Gearbox dead after 6 months 

4. Engine dead after gearbox changed

With all these dead things, mileage should be super high rather than 130k, so I believe the mileage is adjusted at least more than 100k.

This is so crazy and I confirm won't go there forever.

By the way, all these repairs and replacement fees cost me an additional at least 10k added together. Geezzz

Compressor dead is normal. But for gb and engine to die, I think the mileage must be 300k or prev owner skip servicing. 

So your engine you repair or overhaul?

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On 1/19/2021 at 10:33 AM, Kelvintay11 said:

Bought a Toyota wish from a used car dealer.

Mileage stated 130k for a COE car which I feel still ok.

To cut the story short as all procedures are normal.

The car has some weird sound after collecting so I proceed to my workshop instead of theirs.

1. Flywheel crack - Mechanic saying flywheel can crack is quite difficult

2. Aircon compressor dead 2 weeks later

3. Gearbox dead after 6 months 

4. Engine dead after gearbox changed

With all these dead things, mileage should be super high rather than 130k, so I believe the mileage is adjusted at least more than 100k.

This is so crazy and I confirm won't go there forever.

By the way, all these repairs and replacement fees cost me an additional at least 10k added together. Geezzz

If u didn't overpay for the car, can just scrap it. An e.g. with some numbers to interpret. 

Wish purchase price: 60k with 10 Yr coe renewal at 40k pqp. 

If you scrap now, u get back coe balance of maybe 40k and u lost 20k instead of topping up another 10k to fix. At least u still have the 40k to take and buy another car. 

If u spend another 10k to fix now, in future maybe another additional 5k to fix whatever crops up, u end up burning 75k in total. 

Even though Toyota is bullet proof but for engine and gearbox to uplorry, the mileage must be god damn high or crap maintenance with many more replacement parts needed in future. 

Do ur sums mate. 

What's scary now is the new rules when coe cars will no longer be allowed for phv, used car market gonna be flooded with them in future and need to hope that the mileage ain't tweaked down by a few zeros. 

Edited by ferrytales
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Bought a Toyota wish from a used car dealer.

On 1/20/2021 at 10:23 AM, Mancypher said:

Compressor dead is normal. But for gb and engine to die, I think the mileage must be 300k or prev owner skip servicing. 

So your engine you repair or overhaul?

I change recon engine and gearbox

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Need Help!

Anyone have issue/problem with Toyota Corolla Altis (2009) starting engine problem immobilizer?

I bought this used car last year 2020.

I was given 2 keys.

One key comes with the remote (Black).

Another key no remote in Grey color.

I opened the remote cover to check the battery model & cover it back.

Then I cannot start the engine.

When I used the Grey color key, it can start the engine.

Any one knows how to disable the immobilizer or how to register the black key back?

Now the security light keeps blinking.

 

WhatsApp Image 2021-01-21 at 15.23.37.jpeg

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2 hours ago, blueprintmedia00 said:

Need Help!

Anyone have issue/problem with Toyota Corolla Altis (2009) starting engine problem immobilizer?

I bought this used car last year 2020.

I was given 2 keys.

One key comes with the remote (Black).

Another key no remote in Grey color.

I opened the remote cover to check the battery model & cover it back.

Then I cannot start the engine.

When I used the Grey color key, it can start the engine.

Any one knows how to disable the immobilizer or how to register the black key back?

Now the security light keeps blinking.

 

WhatsApp Image 2021-01-21 at 15.23.37.jpeg

Happened to me once. My Lancer key dropped on the floor in the car park and broke apart. Fixed everything back but can't start up the car only to find out through my mechanic that the immobilizer is missing. Took me 5 mins to try and start the car, 10 mins to talk to my mechanic and 15 mins to find the tiny piece (i cant even find something to refer to) of the immobilizer on the ground. My guess is you dropped your car's immobilizer somewhere. 

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3 hours ago, blueprintmedia00 said:

Need Help!

Anyone have issue/problem with Toyota Corolla Altis (2009) starting engine problem immobilizer?

I bought this used car last year 2020.

I was given 2 keys.

One key comes with the remote (Black).

Another key no remote in Grey color.

I opened the remote cover to check the battery model & cover it back.

Then I cannot start the engine.

When I used the Grey color key, it can start the engine.

Any one knows how to disable the immobilizer or how to register the black key back?

Now the security light keeps blinking.

 

WhatsApp Image 2021-01-21 at 15.23.37.jpeg

Go duplicate a new one.

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On 1/21/2021 at 6:14 PM, TheCarDealer said:

Happened to me once. My Lancer key dropped on the floor in the car park and broke apart. Fixed everything back but can't start up the car only to find out through my mechanic that the immobilizer is missing. Took me 5 mins to try and start the car, 10 mins to talk to my mechanic and 15 mins to find the tiny piece (i cant even find something to refer to) of the immobilizer on the ground. My guess is you dropped your car's immobilizer somewhere. 

Same happened to me too with lancer. Diff is I cannot locate my immobiliser and only had one key. 

So had to spend unnecessary money to reprogram new immobiliser. 

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Neutral Newbie

Just traded in my 2017 aug sienta to ST Car* at turf city a week ago - its mileage was 69000 on handover. and trade in value was 60k. saw it being relisted for sale online with a definitely doctored mileage of 39k?!!! just shocking how odo tampering is so so so rampant, and angry as well.. i had submitted all my servicing records at PI to the dealer with the car - hence now i do not have hard evidence to prove that the mileage had been doctored. to add on, the price was increased by 8k from the first day it was listed to the current price now - supposedly cos the mileage of the car is low. what can we do for such errant dealers?? 

 

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25 minutes ago, jlytze said:

Just traded in my 2017 aug sienta to ST Car* at turf city a week ago - its mileage was 69000 on handover. and trade in value was 60k. saw it being relisted for sale online with a definitely doctored mileage of 39k?!!! just shocking how odo tampering is so so so rampant, and angry as well.. i had submitted all my servicing records at PI to the dealer with the car - hence now i do not have hard evidence to prove that the mileage had been doctored. to add on, the price was increased by 8k from the first day it was listed to the current price now - supposedly cos the mileage of the car is low. what can we do for such errant dealers?? 

 

nothing you can do.

 

anyway the standard at dealers is to clock it  at 10k km a year, when the national average is 20k km a year. they probably think halving the mileage can double price? 😁.

their excuse is the typical, everyone does it, if i don;t then i will lose out. anyway no one is caught for it. so continue.

Edited by Mkl22
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Disclaimer: posting from my fake account to protect my identity from the mentioned dealer.

Suspect Empire Modz of unethical practices to make profit. I may be wrong but just gonna share my experience.

Being my first time selling car myself I didn't think too much. Gave them the trust to sell my car by consigning it to them. Not familiar with the process they told me need to sign the consignment contract to set the agreed price and duration of consignment (3mths). They even mentioned car would be sold in less than 2 weeks cos he has a client eyeing on my model of car. Been some time no progress in any arrangements for meet up with his "potential" client. To pull out of the consignment I would need to pay a 3k penalty. Thankfully not in any hurry to sell for money. Shall just wait out the 3 months out. I rather keep the car and let it depreciate then give my money to them. They claim to have large network connection to sell. Doubt so when I check their background after realising something was fishy. Too bad already sign.

They target continental and exotic car sellers. Guessing cos this are the population with more money and would potentially pay off the penalty. So they will cast a wide net to get ppl to consign under them. As long as a portion of them pull out within contract period they can gain free money. No need to push to for sales. 

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