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How did you solve your vibration on idle problem?


D4rkFly3r
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that's another good experience. is urs a voltage regulator or voltage stabilizer, & wc brand was it?

 

tks bro.

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If its yr AC compressor, just switch it on n off n see if the vibrations come n go. If the vibrations r there when the AC is on or off, then its not the AC problem.

 

Also chk yr RPM when u switch the AC on n off. The RPM sud b stable n remain the same.

 

Hv u chk yr plug wires?

 

hi pisces ...

 

for the ac compressor - does it apply to all cars especially when the rpm drops after changing ignition coils and spark plugs and mountings etc ?

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I driving chervolet Aveo5.

Facing the vibration when a/c is on but it stop when a/c is off.

 

Anyone driving same car has this same issue and mange to solve it?

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Neutral Newbie

Hi, im driving a suzuki swift 07 model.

I am currently experiencing the idling vibrations problem when it comes to turning my A/C unit on, the vibrations are decreased slightly when i turn it off, but the vibrations are still there.

 

i also experienced my rpm moving from about 500-900 during the idling process when the vibration is occurring.

The previous workshop i went to said it was the engine mounting, while another mechanic said it was the spark plugs.

 

 

Any reliable workshops in the west area where i can go to?

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Turbocharged
(edited)

U may want to check the "lampa" sensor.

This happen to my car when the CEL light is "on" n car vibrate during idling.

And rpm move up n down.

Edited by Mcf777
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Hi, im driving a suzuki swift 07 model.

I am currently experiencing the idling vibrations problem when it comes to turning my A/C unit on, the vibrations are decreased slightly when i turn it off, but the vibrations are still there.

 

i also experienced my rpm moving from about 500-900 during the idling process when the vibration is occurring.

The previous workshop i went to said it was the engine mounting, while another mechanic said it was the spark plugs.

 

 

Any reliable workshops in the west area where i can go to?

If you dont mind go to tampines, Derrick Motor is specialist in Swift. Go goggle their name to get their address.

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Neutral Newbie

Going into neutral does not help bro. in addition, the vibration only stopped when i started accelerating.

 

if its the a/c's fault what should i do?

 

otherwise what is the other factors that may cause this?

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Firstly, I apologise for replying to an old thread. My story below is a bit lengthy, pls skip if you have no interest or time to read,

 

I have a 2011 Swift 1.4 (4AT). I have this niggling issue where there is vibrations at idle.

Symptoms:

At P and N, no vibrations felt regardless AC on or off.

When AC on, shift to R, there is a very slight jerk forward, and car vibrates. I can feel the vibrations from the car on my butt, and the watch on my hand vibrating. The idle RPM rises about 100rpm compared to when AC off WIth AC off, the effects are lesser but still evident.

When AC on, shift to D, no jerk but vibrations can be felt on steering and watch vibrating. Butt dont feel much vibrations.

 

 

This issue started about 30,000km mileage ago, I would check it whenever I send to the mech for servicing

I suspect it is due to engine mounting gave way, but seems like all the mechs say no.

 

at 70k - Sent to Champion Motors, they said no issue with engine mount. Slight vibration is normal - WTF right

 

at 80k - Sent to a Pro-Swift ws in Tampines - mech says engine mount no issue and explained if engine mount cui it will be vibrating all the way.

 

at 90k - Sent to another WS in Toh Guan - mech hoisted car up and says engine mount worn out. But need to order and got waiting time. So i agreed to do it at the next servicing. They quoted me 500 plus and I was a bit surprised at the high price as I expected it to be < 400.

 

Had some time last week, so decided to get another opinion at another Pro-Swift WS.

They checked and diagnosed the engine mount worn out. The IC said can just change the hydraulic mount located at driver side and said other side usually ok. I agreed and came back the next day to do replacement.

 

The driver side mount was changed and issue was still present.

 

Came back next day to replace mount on passenger side. Issue still present.

 

IC informed me his chief mech on MC, so ask me to come back next week (which is today).

He said he suspect it is the torque converter/gearbox.

 

Went back to workshop today and his chief mech tell me he need to swap out the gearbox, dunno can get the part or not etc.....blah blah blah.

IN the end, suggest me to change ATF oil. I thought I am at 90K now, maybe just change it out first since no loss (wear n tear item).

Didn't resolve as well. I suspect they didnt know the solution so just tell me a possible high cost replacement item so I will back off and stop bugging them.

Anyway, I left as I knew the gearbox story was just bullshiate to me.

 

Items checked and changed so far

1) Engine mounting

2) Throttle body checked and cleaned

3) ATF oil changed at 60k and 90k

 

Sparkies changed at 60k, doubt it is the plugs.

 

I suggested to them if it could be due to idle sensor or valve. Responded that this Swift uses e-throttle - no idle sensor or valve.

 

I am at a loss. This car is only 4.5yrs old and so many issues. No money to change!

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Firstly, I apologise for replying to an old thread. My story below is a bit lengthy, pls skip if you have no interest or time to read,

 

I have a 2011 Swift 1.4 (4AT). I have this niggling issue where there is vibrations at idle.

Symptoms:

At P and N, no vibrations felt regardless AC on or off.

When AC on, shift to R, there is a very slight jerk forward, and car vibrates. I can feel the vibrations from the car on my butt, and the watch on my hand vibrating. The idle RPM rises about 100rpm compared to when AC off WIth AC off, the effects are lesser but still evident.

When AC on, shift to D, no jerk but vibrations can be felt on steering and watch vibrating. Butt dont feel much vibrations.

 

 

This issue started about 30,000km mileage ago, I would check it whenever I send to the mech for servicing

I suspect it is due to engine mounting gave way, but seems like all the mechs say no.

 

at 70k - Sent to Champion Motors, they said no issue with engine mount. Slight vibration is normal - WTF right

 

at 80k - Sent to a Pro-Swift ws in Tampines - mech says engine mount no issue and explained if engine mount cui it will be vibrating all the way.

 

at 90k - Sent to another WS in Toh Guan - mech hoisted car up and says engine mount worn out. But need to order and got waiting time. So i agreed to do it at the next servicing. They quoted me 500 plus and I was a bit surprised at the high price as I expected it to be < 400.

 

Had some time last week, so decided to get another opinion at another Pro-Swift WS.

They checked and diagnosed the engine mount worn out. The IC said can just change the hydraulic mount located at driver side and said other side usually ok. I agreed and came back the next day to do replacement.

 

The driver side mount was changed and issue was still present.

 

Came back next day to replace mount on passenger side. Issue still present.

 

IC informed me his chief mech on MC, so ask me to come back next week (which is today).

He said he suspect it is the torque converter/gearbox.

 

Went back to workshop today and his chief mech tell me he need to swap out the gearbox, dunno can get the part or not etc.....blah blah blah.

IN the end, suggest me to change ATF oil. I thought I am at 90K now, maybe just change it out first since no loss (wear n tear item).

Didn't resolve as well. I suspect they didnt know the solution so just tell me a possible high cost replacement item so I will back off and stop bugging them.

Anyway, I left as I knew the gearbox story was just bullshiate to me.

 

Items checked and changed so far

1) Engine mounting

2) Throttle body checked and cleaned

3) ATF oil changed at 60k and 90k

 

Sparkies changed at 60k, doubt it is the plugs.

 

I suggested to them if it could be due to idle sensor or valve. Responded that this Swift uses e-throttle - no idle sensor or valve.

 

I am at a loss. This car is only 4.5yrs old and so many issues. No money to change!

Your situation sounds somewhat similar except my ride didnt have the jerk. The vibration is evident be it in P or D or R mode. At first suspect its engine mountings but it was changed less than a yr ago. Sent to my regular WS to check, initially cannot find the problem until one of their mechanics pulled out my engine oil stick and take a look at the level of my engine oil. It was below the lower marker of the dipstick. After they topped up some engine oil and drove it around, the vibrations are gone and my ride was back to usual. Maybe you can check your engine oil level too? Hope it helps.

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NEA clamps down on drivers who leave engines idling
20763537.JPG?itok=zuKzWO1v
Errant motorists who leave the engines of stationary vehicles idling can be fined up to S$5,000. Today File Photo
 
Latest enforcement blitz finds cabbies and parents among motorists who leave engines on
PUBLISHED: 4:02 AM, NOVEMBER 21, 2014
 
 
(PAGE 1 OF 2) - NEXT PAGE | SINGLE PAGE

SINGAPORE – Over the past three years, the National Environment Agency (NEA) has taken action on more than 8,000 cases of errant drivers who leave the engines idling while their vehicles are stationary. Fines have been meted out and warning letters and advisories issued, the NEA said.

In its latest three-hour enforcement blitz on Wednesday in Ang Mo Kio Street 53, warning letters were issued to another 14 drivers who had left the engines of stationary vehicles running. Pamphlets and anti-idling car decals were also distributed to 236 motorists.

 

The exercise will be conducted periodically to serve as a timely reminder to motorists, the NEA said.

Wednesday’s exercise found that motorists who had left their engines idling were often those who were unaware of the regulations, taxi drivers waiting to pick up customers, parents waiting for their children at school, workers loading and unloading goods at non-designated spots and drivers resting in their vehicles during a break.

Under the Environmental Protection and Management (Vehicular Emissions) Regulations, it is an offence to leave the engine of a motor vehicle running when it is stationary for reasons other than traffic conditions.

Errant motorists can be fined up to S$5,000. “A stationary motor vehicle with its engine running wastes fuel and causes air pollution. In addition, it causes smell and (is a) noise nuisance to the public,” the NEA said.

To raise public awareness of the regulations and environmental hazards posed by such vehicles, the NEA said it regularly engages vehicle fleet operators such as public transport operators, the Singapore School and Private Hire Bus Owners’ Association and the Singapore School Transport Association.

It also distributes through schools publicity posters, decals and pamphlets to educate parents and private school transport operators on switching off the engine while waiting to pick up schoolchildren.

However, a random check by TODAY with motorists found that many were unaware of the regulations, which date back to 1999.

Video producer Jeremy Oh, 27, said he often waits for his friends in his car with the engine running. “Sometimes they take a long time to leave (their houses) — up to 15 minutes — so I wait for them in my car with the air-conditioning on because it is comfortable,” he told TODAY.

 

 

 

 


LTA solve your problem for you. lol

 

now cannot turn on engine while idling. so no more virbation issue!

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if engine RPM is running low, then there can only be 3 factors. 1 is petrol, 2 is air, 3 is spark.

 

Let's address one by one. For the jerk, it could be the brake not strong enough to hold the engine power. Since you say put to reverse, there is a jerk, it could be rear brake not strong. I believe your car is using drum brake at the back. Perhaps need to service.

 

For vibration, like I have mentioned earlier. It could be petrol, air or spark plug. Since you can start car, when you accelerate, does it jerk? If it doesn't, then it is not fuel pump or fuel filter. So fuel is clear.

 

next thing to check is spark, is your spark plug new? Does your rev goes up and down? Or when it is down, it is down and never goes up unless you offload the engine by turning off air con? If it doesn't goes up and down, then is not misfire, can move on from spark.

 

Next is air. If your car is e-throttle, have you change air filter? Do throttle body cleaning? Cleaning throttle will effectively allow more air to go into the engine. When car is new, amount of air flow into the engine is constant, but when car is old, the air intake channel got choke. It is like when one gets old, blood vessel got fats that block the blood flow.

 

I suggest, first you clean up your air intake, MAF Sensor can take out and use MAF Sensor cleaner to clean. If not, use electronic contact cleaner will do the job as well. Make sure it is dry then put it back. Next, clean your throttle using throttle cleaner. Else, use Carburettor cleaner will do the job as well. Dry up the throttle and then fix it back. The car will probably be difficult to start at first. Once started, floor the accelerator to clear out the carburettor cleaner, the car will be rev happy for next few days. And it should be back to normal in few days time. To make the car forget all the driving habit you have, you can disconnect your negative battery terminal for 1 minute, then put it back. In this case, you will have "new" ECU and clean throttle body. Do note, check engine light will come on if it detect too clean throttle and too clean MAF sensor. By disconnecting negative battery terminal will also reset your check engine light. After that, drive for a few days for the rev to be back to normal.

 

Hope this helps.

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When AC on, shift to R, there is a very slight jerk forward, and car vibrates.

 

This doesn't sound right, did you ask your mechanic check the transmission mount?

 

 

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This doesn't sound right, did you ask your mechanic check the transmission mount?

 

 

 

Transmission mount was replaced as well.

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if engine RPM is running low, then there can only be 3 factors. 1 is petrol, 2 is air, 3 is spark.

 

Let's address one by one. For the jerk, it could be the brake not strong enough to hold the engine power. Since you say put to reverse, there is a jerk, it could be rear brake not strong. I believe your car is using drum brake at the back. Perhaps need to service.

 

For vibration, like I have mentioned earlier. It could be petrol, air or spark plug. Since you can start car, when you accelerate, does it jerk? If it doesn't, then it is not fuel pump or fuel filter. So fuel is clear.

 

next thing to check is spark, is your spark plug new? Does your rev goes up and down? Or when it is down, it is down and never goes up unless you offload the engine by turning off air con? If it doesn't goes up and down, then is not misfire, can move on from spark.

 

Next is air. If your car is e-throttle, have you change air filter? Do throttle body cleaning? Cleaning throttle will effectively allow more air to go into the engine. When car is new, amount of air flow into the engine is constant, but when car is old, the air intake channel got choke. It is like when one gets old, blood vessel got fats that block the blood flow.

 

I suggest, first you clean up your air intake, MAF Sensor can take out and use MAF Sensor cleaner to clean. If not, use electronic contact cleaner will do the job as well. Make sure it is dry then put it back. Next, clean your throttle using throttle cleaner. Else, use Carburettor cleaner will do the job as well. Dry up the throttle and then fix it back. The car will probably be difficult to start at first. Once started, floor the accelerator to clear out the carburettor cleaner, the car will be rev happy for next few days. And it should be back to normal in few days time. To make the car forget all the driving habit you have, you can disconnect your negative battery terminal for 1 minute, then put it back. In this case, you will have "new" ECU and clean throttle body. Do note, check engine light will come on if it detect too clean throttle and too clean MAF sensor. By disconnecting negative battery terminal will also reset your check engine light. After that, drive for a few days for the rev to be back to normal.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Your explanation on possible cause sounds a lot more logical than the workshops Bro. :)

 

1) Rear brakes - Not sure what you mean by not strong but the car was serviced with brake pads checked for remaining depth 3 months ago. The pads were still very good and no change required.

 

2) When I accelerate, the car does not jerk. It is smooth pickup.

 

3) Sparkies were changed at 60k. I dont recall the exact sequence but I do know when i on the aircon, the rpm does move a little bit before stabilising (car warmed up already)

 

4) Air filter was changed 2 service before. The latest servicing didn't manage to change as the workshop did not have stock. They used the air gun to clean it and told me to change it at the next one. However, this vibrating issue was already present since quite a couple of service ago.

 

5) Throttle body was cleaned already, no improvement observed.

 

6) About the MAF sensor, i dont recall if the workshop did mention if e trottle has MAF sensor, but I will ask again at the next service.

 

ANyway, to update on my issue, I sent the car to another workshop in Sin Ming. The boss (an old uncle) told me the Swift has 3 mounts. I told him i only changed the front 2 as the previous workshop told me the last one was in good condition. He said there is no way you can tell if the mount is in good condition by looking at it as the rubber might have hardened.

I proceeded to change the 3rd one and the issue was improved, though still present and not like new car. Jerk was also present albeit not so pronounced now. He also explained that cars will 3 mounts instead of 4 will surely have a bit of vibration as it ages. Not sure how plausible is that.

 

Probably at the next service in 2months time, I will replace air filter and check the MAF sensor as suggested. Thank you!!

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Your explanation on possible cause sounds a lot more logical than the workshops Bro. :)

 

1) Rear brakes - Not sure what you mean by not strong but the car was serviced with brake pads checked for remaining depth 3 months ago. The pads were still very good and no change required. < Disc Brake are by theory much "stronger" than drum brakes. That means the holding strength to prevent the vehicle from moving is stronger. Brake pad checked doesn't mean the grip is there. You need to find out if they open up and check and clean up the brake dust inside, or they just visually check? >

 

2) When I accelerate, the car does not jerk. It is smooth pickup. < It means your engine and gearbox are ok>

 

3) Sparkies were changed at 60k. I dont recall the exact sequence but I do know when i on the aircon, the rpm does move a little bit before stabilising (car warmed up already) < Some spark plug can last 50K and up, some can only last 20k. Depending on the model. If yours is not Iridium, then I recommend you to change out every 20k.>

 

4) Air filter was changed 2 service before. The latest servicing didn't manage to change as the workshop did not have stock. They used the air gun to clean it and told me to change it at the next one. However, this vibrating issue was already present since quite a couple of service ago. < Air filter can go outside and buy and change yourself. I'm not sure about Suzuki, but to change Mazda and Toyota is just unclip, take out and replace and clip back. Anyway, air filter is not likely the cause of it.>

 

5) Throttle body was cleaned already, no improvement observed. < how was it clean? Did you see it clean? Usually after cleaning, there is improvement in idling. I suggest you go to another workshop, where they dismantle the air intake, go straight to throttle body to clean it. Instead of plugging something in, and let the solution clean it. For me, i'll dismantle air intake and clean it. I have did it for my Vios, Altis and Camry. After cleaning, they all react with higher than usual rev for a period of time before stabilizing. After which, it idle like new car with no vibration>

 

6) About the MAF sensor, i dont recall if the workshop did mention if e trottle has MAF sensor, but I will ask again at the next service. < it has. Go and google how MAF sensor looks like. And pop open your bonnet, you should see it attached to your air intake.>

 

ANyway, to update on my issue, I sent the car to another workshop in Sin Ming. The boss (an old uncle) told me the Swift has 3 mounts. I told him i only changed the front 2 as the previous workshop told me the last one was in good condition. He said there is no way you can tell if the mount is in good condition by looking at it as the rubber might have hardened.

I proceeded to change the 3rd one and the issue was improved, though still present and not like new car. Jerk was also present albeit not so pronounced now. He also explained that cars will 3 mounts instead of 4 will surely have a bit of vibration as it ages. Not sure how plausible is that. <Yes, depending on where the mount is. some is just to hold, some is prevent jerking. Bare eyes can't see if the mount is ok or not, cause it is hydraulic inside. Unless there is leakage, else it is impossible to see if it is damage. Can google and read up more about engine mounting.>

 

Probably at the next service in 2months time, I will replace air filter and check the MAF sensor as suggested. Thank you!!

 

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1) Rear brakes - Sounds possible. I will ask them to clean the rear brakes next round.

 

2) Sparkies - The last round replaced should be Suzie stock sparkies. Sounds like it is time to try changing as well. ANyway it should be cheap for stock sparks.

 

3) Throttle body was cleaned by 2 workshops and i witnessed them cleaning it. They removed it and sprayed some fluid on it (smells like WD40 or something). Then they used a cloth to wipe the crap out. Really no discernible improvement observed.

 

4) MAF sensor - to check and clean at next service.

 

Good advice Bro, Thanks a lot.

 

Will check the above at next servicing and report back. :)

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