Using power bank with Car Cam

[Alphas]

No. It defeats the purpose and very inefficient. Basically each power bank loses some energy while charging, so by daisy chaining, you are losing more energy than charging it.

 

A better solution is just connect car cam to the car battery, it is a huge power bank anyway. I left my car cam on motion detect for a week, come back start the car and go!

 

If really cannot jump start, there is a small portable power starter in the car really to jump start anyway. The way you guys are doing is very funny, using a tiny power bank to power the car cam.

[abcedcch]

I tried using Xiaomi 16000mah to power my car cam. Find it not practical. The charging time of the portable battery is way too long.

 

Now I direct connect to car battery with voltage and timer cutoff.

 

So far no problem starting the car after overnight park mode.

[Zippaboy]

 

Where you place your deep cycle battery?

 

Sorry for the late reply.

 

The secondary battery is placed in my boot.

 

Those who are into serious ICE will have done this secondary battery.

 

Remember to add the battery isolator. If you wan, can add a switch too.

 

If main batt one day die, still got secondary to crank start.

[Leoeve]

my car cam was tap to the car bat, one day nv drive the next day cant start my car, i had brought a solar bat bank from qoo10 separately with mini usb cable to link it, will try next week.

 

cos my car will alway be under the sun for charging.

[abcedcch]

You can try Power magic pro which has voltage and timer cut of. So far i using 12hrs timer with 12v cutoff setting, no problem. The car cam will run for 12hrs before hitting low 12v.

[1fast1]

You can try Power magic pro which has voltage and timer cut of. So far i using 12hrs timer with 12v cutoff setting, no problem. The car cam will run for 12hrs before hitting low 12v.

Just to let bros driving the newer Bimmers know (it certainly applies to my F10, and may apply to all F-series cars) that Power Magic Pro does *not* work properly for our cars. I know this from bitter experience.

 

The settings for voltage are 11.8V (too low, involves deep cycling the battery, not good for longevity) and 12V, so there is only one choice, the latter.

 

The settings for timings go from 6h (minimum), then the next step is already 12h. The first is generally too short because who works for just 6h, right?

 

But when you set it to 12h, you'll have a problem. When you come to open your car, you'll find that the auto-fold mirrors don't work, and when you fire up the car, it'll give you a message to the effect of "Battery discharging when stationary, electrical accessories switched off". The BMW ECU has a built-in failsafe that cuts off all electrical accessories at 6h, and it cannot be over-ridden by coding (as far as I've enquired of the supposed experts in this). And there *is* a downside to letting this error message come on - I've found the car to run rough and more sluggishly until I do a reset at my workshop, and I have no idea why that is necessary.

 

In short, the Power Magic Pro is pointless in this model of car. I've removed it, and have put in a Cellink B power bank, and I have no issues with any of these things since the car battery is completely untouched. The power pack charges while driving and powers the cam as long as it can, after which it just shuts off. The worst that happens is I miss a bit of coverage. Better than the alternative of a rough and limp car.

Edited April 28, 2015 by Turboflat4

[Topspin]

those USB power bank produce only 5V from the USB

 

but my camera need 12V, how?

 

You can use this 12V powerbank.

 

Driving (charging) for about 1 hour can give typically 10 hours of parking mode recording time for my camera. Using it for 7 months now and still keeping its charge reasonably well.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lukas-LK-530-12V-2600mAh-LK530-External-power-battery-Constant-power-Cigar-cabl-/171213572498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dd1fc992

[1fast1]

One thing that must be realised is that the charging of a power bank is non-linear, and it works to our advantage. So while a "full charge" (typically 5 half-lives of an idealised RC circuit model) may take 90min, you can attain over 80% charge within just a half-hour of driving. If your car camera can last, say 10h, on a full charge, you'll be able to achieve something like 8h on just half-hour's driving. Assuming your auto start-stop is disabled.

Edited April 28, 2015 by Turboflat4

[abcedcch]

Yeah power magic will not work for bmws as they have battery discharge sensor. Need to direct connect to engine bay fuse compartment instead of dash fuss box.

[Wolfverine]

Can't agree more to what you have described about the power magic as I encountered the same challenge. After installing Cellink B, I can leave the front + rear camera running for 14 hours and there is still no error code. The quick charge functionality is also very helpful - takes me about 1 hour of driving to have the battery last for about 15 hours.

 

The Cellink B is not cheap but I do believe that it is an investment worthy to be incurred.

 

Just to let bros driving the newer Bimmers know (it certainly applies to my F10, and may apply to all F-series cars) that Power Magic Pro does *not* work properly for our cars. I know this from bitter experience.

The settings for voltage are 11.8V (too low, involves deep cycling the battery, not good for longevity) and 12V, so there is only one choice, the latter.

The settings for timings go from 6h (minimum), then the next step is already 12h. The first is generally too short because who works for just 6h, right?

But when you set it to 12h, you'll have a problem. When you come to open your car, you'll find that the auto-fold mirrors don't work, and when you fire up the car, it'll give you a message to the effect of "Battery discharging when stationary, electrical accessories switched off". The BMW ECU has a built-in failsafe that cuts off all electrical accessories at 6h, and it cannot be over-ridden by coding (as far as I've enquired of the supposed experts in this). And there *is* a downside to letting this error message come on - I've found the car to run rough and more sluggishly until I do a reset at my workshop, and I have no idea why that is necessary.

In short, the Power Magic Pro is pointless in this model of car. I've removed it, and have put in a Cellink B power bank, and I have no issues with any of these things since the car battery is completely untouched. The power pack charges while driving and powers the cam as long as it can, after which it just shuts off. The worst that happens is I miss a bit of coverage. Better than the alternative of a rough and limp car.

 

[Ftco]

Bought one from G market. Quite a bit cheaper. DIY installed and now still trying out.

[Ftco]

Has anyone tried charging the cellink from home with an adapter? After the first beep, the red led lights up. However a short time later, the green and red led blink alternately and beeps twice. Not sure what it means but i sense something not right so just stop the charging.

 

My drives are not long enough to give the cellink a full charge so thought of charging from home once in a while to maintain the battery in good condition.

 

Anyone with experience?

Edited May 5, 2015 by Ftco

[Lurpsexx]

I tried using Xiaomi 16000mah to power my car cam. Find it not practical. The charging time of the portable battery is way too long.

 

Now I direct connect to car battery with voltage and timer cutoff.

 

So far no problem starting the car after overnight park mode.

 

I used my 16K xiaomi powerbank from 9pm to 9am (12 hrs) to power my china car cam and still left 2 lights (out of 4). Good for 24hrs if not wrong.. if wanna charge, bring home to charge overnight from socket can liao.. This is much better than direct connection to fuse->car batt/power saver, as this combo caused my car batt to drain completely in Legoland after 6 hrs.. had to get help to jumpstart.. seems like power saver not working at 11.8v cutoff.. I rather not touch and deep drain my car batt, otherwise cannot start car will be worse still...

[Kb27]

If you connect the cam directly to the main battery, get ready to jump start your car, should the battery be drained too much.

 

You should also invest in a portable jump starter.

 

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?initiative_id=RS_20150505234053&SearchText=car+battery+jump+starter

[Angcheek]

Just to let bros driving the newer Bimmers know (it certainly applies to my F10, and may apply to all F-series cars) that Power Magic Pro does *not* work properly for our cars. I know this from bitter experience.

 

The settings for voltage are 11.8V (too low, involves deep cycling the battery, not good for longevity) and 12V, so there is only one choice, the latter.

 

The settings for timings go from 6h (minimum), then the next step is already 12h. The first is generally too short because who works for just 6h, right?

 

But when you set it to 12h, you'll have a problem. When you come to open your car, you'll find that the auto-fold mirrors don't work, and when you fire up the car, it'll give you a message to the effect of "Battery discharging when stationary, electrical accessories switched off". The BMW ECU has a built-in failsafe that cuts off all electrical accessories at 6h, and it cannot be over-ridden by coding (as far as I've enquired of the supposed experts in this). And there *is* a downside to letting this error message come on - I've found the car to run rough and more sluggishly until I do a reset at my workshop, and I have no idea why that is necessary.

 

In short, the Power Magic Pro is pointless in this model of car. I've removed it, and have put in a Cellink B power bank, and I have no issues with any of these things since the car battery is completely untouched. The power pack charges while driving and powers the cam as long as it can, after which it just shuts off. The worst that happens is I miss a bit of coverage. Better than the alternative of a rough and limp car.

 

Hi Turbo ,

 

installing the Cellink B will have any issue with the warranty for new BMW ?

[1fast1]

 

Hi Turbo ,

 

installing the Cellink B will have any issue with the warranty for new BMW ?

I don't believe so but they can be quite 'ngiao' especially at PML (much less so at Munich). In any case, if it's not a power/battery related issue you are seeking a warranty repair for, I don't see how they can deny coverage. And if it is an electrical issue, you have the option of uninstalling it (an hour long job at a workshop) so that no one can prove you ever had it when you go to PML.

[Angcheek]

I don't believe so but they can be quite 'ngiao' especially at PML (much less so at Munich). In any case, if it's not a power/battery related issue you are seeking a warranty repair for, I don't see how they can deny coverage. And if it is an electrical issue, you have the option of uninstalling it (an hour long job at a workshop) so that no one can prove you ever had it when you go to PML.

 

sorry just saw your post . thanks bro for the advise

[Johnnylim]

 

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