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Nissan Qashqai 2014


Thaiyotakamli
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1 month ago, my brake seems to have failed while I was going down the slope into waterway point. The alert came out while I was going downslope and it was jam while entering the carpark. It was after a car wash and the brakes feel rougher than usual. Noticed this after every car wash. I always use a cloth to clean the brake calipers, not sure did i spoil anything. After shopping, i switched on my car and it never happened again. Gonna report this to TC at my next servicing.

Oh man, please go to Tc and apply the lastest patch. Few of us got this exact problem.it may not be your washing of the brakes.
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Went for my first servicing. Informed the SA that i have rattling sounds coming out of my left dashboard. Also a tock sound when i turn right aft gg up slope.

 

Took a testdrive. Heard the sounds. Had to leave the car there for the afternn.

 

Came back once car was ready. Saw the report that they insulated the glove box. Tightened the top mounting and side slip by 1mm.

 

Drove home...heard the rattling and checked the compartment. Realised it came from the isofix caps that my wife put inside. Oops. The tock sound also seems to have gone away.

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Please put yourself in the receiving end before making "figure of speech" and there is nothing to figure in your statement but clear wishing that more experience your "good" ones to support the wailing.

 

I meant what I say and say what I mean .... nothing to figure from me !!

 

Minor problem. Wait till u experience power loss and braking issues.

Zzzzz....... Edited by QashqiGrey
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Thanks haronkr, i am an owner and like wat richard has gloated, i do experience all the problems. Can see how defensive he is and only cares about how happy he should be. This is a forum and am just sharing real problems and like u said; TC unable to solve.

 

So to richard, don't think too fully of yourself and start slamming others just because there are negative comments. Call yourself educated.

I am glad some qashqai owners like you are coming forward to share problems with their cars, otherwise a newbie to QQ would be buying the car without knowing. There are of course many in this thread that can't have the slightest negative thing being said about their car and I really sympathise with this group of people.

1 month ago, my brake seems to have failed while I was going down the slope into waterway point. The alert came out while I was going downslope and it was jam while entering the carpark. It was after a car wash and the brakes feel rougher than usual. Noticed this after every car wash. I always use a cloth to clean the brake calipers, not sure did i spoil anything. After shopping, i switched on my car and it never happened again. Gonna report this to TC at my next servicing.

Thanks for sharing and being honest
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Lol to the one that dislike my last post. I just ordered my ride and was very interested in QQ as well.. Wanted to see how great or bad QQ is.. Instead, i only see quarrels... I need to keep skipping on page and merely get to view some comments... What a shame actually...

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Went for my first servicing. Informed the SA that i have rattling sounds coming out of my left dashboard. Also a tock sound when i turn right aft gg up slope.

 

Took a testdrive. Heard the sounds. Had to leave the car there for the afternn.

 

Came back once car was ready. Saw the report that they insulated the glove box. Tightened the top mounting and side slip by 1mm.

 

Drove home...heard the rattling and checked the compartment. Realised it came from the isofix caps that my wife put inside. Oops. The tock sound also seems to have gone away.

A lot of unwanted 'sound' are either self created or by those subcontractors. I encountered mine once. Not always the QQ fault. Need to own self check own self. Lol
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Twincharged

I enjoy this thread, its positive and negative feedback. Before I booked my XT, I read both good and bad and inclined to read more on bad as SEs would tell you all the good. I think knowing also the bad would help to make wiser decision and look out for it in case it happened. Learning the good would help to improve the ride and make it more enjoyable. Hope to read all good and bad with an open mind but most importantly don't make uncalled for remarks. Cheers!

 

Hope to learn more in this thread, as QQ and XT have many similarities.

No lah... XT is better than QQ lah.... No so much complain leh.

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Hypersonic

No lah... XT is better than QQ lah.... No so much complain leh.

I did read some shortcoming in XT thread. Will observe after I take delivery of mine. I think nothing is perfect, either it is a design no so good or sometimes a manufacturing fault. Everything has is strength and weakness. Hahaha .....
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and there is still one or 2 guys who just loves to bash QQ owners, but still refuses to share even what's their rides...

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Doesn't seem like alot of QQ2.0 owners here.

 

Anyone care to share the FC for your QQ2.0s?

 

I got a aftermarket speakers and a small amp on my current car. Wondering if the sound on the QQ is decent enough (got the subwoofer option), else I'll need to find an installer to 'migrate' the parts over...

 

 

Edited by MooDriver
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Twincharged

I did read some shortcoming in XT thread. Will observe after I take delivery of mine. I think nothing is perfect, either it is a design no so good or sometimes a manufacturing fault. Everything has is strength and weakness. Hahaha .....

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Trip meter only shows estimated distance to go since it cannot know how you will be driving for remaining fuel. It uses FC from the last trip and previous trips for such estimation.

 

Needle at half tank is also only estimate.

 

My advice is to ignore both unless you receive fuel low warning which is still fine driving in Singapore with many petrol stations around.

 

To calculate FC, please clocked km travel from full tank till llw fuel warning and divide by 50 since reserve would be about 5 litre when you get the low fuel warning.

 

There are already many msgs posted on FC to expect and this depends on city/hway driving ratio and how heavy footed you are.

Cheers.

Actually the most accurate estimate would be as follows.

 

1 pump ya petrol at slow rate (to reduce bubbles and to allow it to escape) until it clicks. Do not add anymore fuel.

 

2. Reset all your trip meters to zero.

 

3. drive normally for the next 1 to to wks. It does not matter when you refuel but it would be good to tahan to as long as possible (e.g. Jus before Low warning light comes on).

 

Why go as long as possible..... Because as your tank empties, your car also gets lighter thus getting more 'efficient'.

 

Why before low warning, because fuel sendiments might get drawn up. Although chances are less with newer vehicles and pumped with Sgp fuel (jb fuels quality lower)

 

4. When it's time to refuel, VISIT AND PUMP AT THE SAME EXACT PUMP and repeat steps 1. Note the amount of fuel pumped. This is to minimise errors due to variabilities.

 

Now it's time for calculation.

 

Distance recorded by trip meter / Amount of fuel pump

 

Additionally, time of pump should also be around the same time to maintain same temperature. Pumping late at night or very early say ard 6 or 7 is best as temperature is low and thus fuel is denser. More value for $$$$.

 

I base all the above on scientific design of experiment.

 

Hope this helps.

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Hypersonic

+1 . With such open mind, you will sure enjoy your ride.

Important is the agent is willing and can rectify the problem.

Hope your car will be problem free.... When your car is expected to be delivery to you?

In 2 weeks time. Hope problem free
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Actually the number of complaints is not an accurate reflection of a car's reliability.

 

The number of cars sold and plying the roads, the Type and demographic statistics like age group, type of Drivers etc also affects the data.

 

For example, Drivers of Lexus LS/ES/GS are definitely less likely to Chiong as compared to Drivers of Merc S/E/C.

 

Additionally, statistics while not accurate may not fully reflect the truth.

 

For example the Mazda radio ad claims that if one spots a car broken down, 90+% it is not a Mazda car. While the % seem impressive and may be true, it does not tell the whole picture as it does not tell you what percentage of cars on the roads are Mazda cars. Naturally, more Toyotas, Nissans and even Honda since their nos. are much greater.

 

I hope we all keep our focus on making our RIDE OUR PRIDE. And that everyone respects this and comes here to share experiences, knowledge and possible solutions/fixes/advises. Keep the discussions relevant and objective and not being overly critical.

 

Consider myself lucky that til today, I am blessed to have been granted an excellent ride.

 

We are all Bros and Sis after all 'trapped' on this tiny island :)

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I am not saying that others will face the same problems; just trying to state that the problems exist and do keep a watch esp they cannot be solved yet. If the tone through this forum sounds negative, I apologize.

 

Change a car? not rich...

Ur problems not solved yet?

I did encounter power loss twice and brakes delay (brakes didn't release immediately) when moving off. But after 2X updates seems okay till now. Last software update was 2nd servicing(6k) and going for my 3rd servicing next week.

Now another conplain is squeaking front suspensions every morning, when going over humps.

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Actually the most accurate estimate would be as follows.

 

1 pump ya petrol at slow rate (to reduce bubbles and to allow it to escape) until it clicks. Do not add anymore fuel.

 

2. Reset all your trip meters to zero.

 

3. drive normally for the next 1 to to wks. It does not matter when you refuel but it would be good to tahan to as long as possible (e.g. Jus before Low warning light comes on).

 

Why go as long as possible..... Because as your tank empties, your car also gets lighter thus getting more 'efficient'.

 

Why before low warning, because fuel sendiments might get drawn up. Although chances are less with newer vehicles and pumped with Sgp fuel (jb fuels quality lower)

 

4. When it's time to refuel, VISIT AND PUMP AT THE SAME EXACT PUMP and repeat steps 1. Note the amount of fuel pumped. This is to minimise errors due to variabilities.

 

Now it's time for calculation.

 

Distance recorded by trip meter / Amount of fuel pump

 

Additionally, time of pump should also be around the same time to maintain same temperature. Pumping late at night or very early say ard 6 or 7 is best as temperature is low and thus fuel is denser. More value for $$$$.

 

I base all the above on scientific design of experiment.

 

Hope this helps.

Informative. But difficult to q for exact same pump.though I will always go to the same station. Find that at times certain station gives low power delivery and fuel efficiency. I wonder why n I always pump the same grade. My beautiful mind or any others noticed the same thing?

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Informative. But difficult to q for exact same pump.though I will always go to the same station. Find that at times certain station gives low power delivery and fuel efficiency. I wonder why n I always pump the same grade. My beautiful mind or any others noticed the same thing?

Not sure abt diff stations but car is definitely more responsive in cooler weather.

Actually the most accurate estimate would be as follows.

 

1 pump ya petrol at slow rate (to reduce bubbles and to allow it to escape) until it clicks. Do not add anymore fuel.

 

2. Reset all your trip meters to zero.

 

3. drive normally for the next 1 to to wks. It does not matter when you refuel but it would be good to tahan to as long as possible (e.g. Jus before Low warning light comes on).

 

Why go as long as possible..... Because as your tank empties, your car also gets lighter thus getting more 'efficient'.

 

Why before low warning, because fuel sendiments might get drawn up. Although chances are less with newer vehicles and pumped with Sgp fuel (jb fuels quality lower)

 

4. When it's time to refuel, VISIT AND PUMP AT THE SAME EXACT PUMP and repeat steps 1. Note the amount of fuel pumped. This is to minimise errors due to variabilities.

 

Now it's time for calculation.

 

Distance recorded by trip meter / Amount of fuel pump

 

Additionally, time of pump should also be around the same time to maintain same temperature. Pumping late at night or very early say ard 6 or 7 is best as temperature is low and thus fuel is denser. More value for $$$$.

 

I base all the above on scientific design of experiment.

 

Hope this helps.

Nice info for those to find their fc right down to the decimals. However it's too troublesome for me to stick to these methods.. lol.
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