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DarkFly3r
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Hi Leongcar, there can be various reasons causing the 150Hz dip - from the performance-related possibility of that particular midbass on the right to acoustic within your car, to the possible physics of placement & dampening in the door panel. 

 

If I may ask further, is the measurement done with TA on or off? How was the measurement taken? Were you sitting on the driver side then?

 

It is pretty amazing to record a 150Hz dip, at such concise freq.

 

Hi Sarong1, agreed on all the possible reasons causing the issue, just hope can solve in a easy way, can't expect too much for a car envinronment.

 

Measurement done with TA properly set, using USB calibrated mic place just below headrest, i am sitting on the driver side and mic just behind my neck, using Room EQ Wizard (REW) software - pink noise sound generator to measure the response curve, the graph show a V shape in 100hz - 200hz, both at around 80db but in between dip to 70db - "V" shape.

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Hi Sarong1, agreed on all the possible reasons causing the issue, just hope can solve in a easy way, can't expect too much for a car envinronment.

 

Measurement done with TA properly set, using USB calibrated mic place just below headrest, i am sitting on the driver side and mic just behind my neck, using Room EQ Wizard (REW) software - pink noise sound generator to measure the response curve, the graph show a V shape in 100hz - 200hz, both at around 80db but in between dip to 70db - "V" shape.

 

What is the audible difference when you increase 150Hz on the EQ for the right midbass (if you are able to do so for the right midbass)?

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Hi Sarong1, agreed on all the possible reasons causing the issue, just hope can solve in a easy way, can't expect too much for a car envinronment.

 

Measurement done with TA properly set, using USB calibrated mic place just below headrest, i am sitting on the driver side and mic just behind my neck, using Room EQ Wizard (REW) software - pink noise sound generator to measure the response curve, the graph show a V shape in 100hz - 200hz, both at around 80db but in between dip to 70db - "V" shape.

U on 3way or 2way?

 

How did u perform the TA with the h800? Based on the manual?

 

Left / Right channel same cross over settings?

Edited by Budgetice
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Neutral Newbie

Hi Sarong1, agreed on all the possible reasons causing the issue, just hope can solve in a easy way, can't expect too much for a car envinronment.

 

Measurement done with TA properly set, using USB calibrated mic place just below headrest, i am sitting on the driver side and mic just behind my neck, using Room EQ Wizard (REW) software - pink noise sound generator to measure the response curve, the graph show a V shape in 100hz - 200hz, both at around 80db but in between dip to 70db - "V" shape.

 

Hi,

Since you are using REW, are you using the UMIK-1 mic? Did you try measuring with the mic in both horizontal and vertical position? I think I read somewhere that vertical picks up low frequency better. Also note that between horizontal and vertical, there are different calibration files (if you are using UMIK-1).

 

Also, since you mention this is only for driver side, I presume you tried to measure with both sides independently. Maybe you can bring the mic right next to the driver side speaker to measure with balance to right only. This might help identify if it is due to sound dampening issue or installation issue as some of the forumers pointed out. Do remember to reduce your volume when you measure right next to the speaker. I think the recommended SPL is at 75db. 

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Need some advice please. I have just changed my car and the factory fitted audio is quite bad but I can't figure out what is wrong. I don't like the music to be loud but whenever I turn up one notch from soft/low, the radio would sound really noisy/over powering.

common problem in stock systems. the head unit sound adjustment is too sensitive. unfortunately, it cannot be adjusted (i havent come across a head unit which allows this adjustment)
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What is the audible difference when you increase 150Hz on the EQ for the right midbass (if you are able to do so for the right midbass)?

 

slightly better with EQ around 125 &160 (100-125-160-200), still not flat and never know if it will sound better by solving this issue, i can lower left midbass and boost right midbass to lower the dip but prefer a better solution if possible. 

 

 

U on 3way or 2way?

 

How did u perform the TA with the h800? Based on the manual?

 

Left / Right channel same cross over settings?

3 ways

TA - measure the distance of each driver to headrest and divide by a formula to get the basic then fine tune until my liking, vocal from centre and focus.

Left / Right same cross over, do play around but not solving the issue.

 

 

 

Hi,

Since you are using REW, are you using the UMIK-1 mic? Did you try measuring with the mic in both horizontal and vertical position? I think I read somewhere that vertical picks up low frequency better. Also note that between horizontal and vertical, there are different calibration files (if you are using UMIK-1).

 

Also, since you mention this is only for driver side, I presume you tried to measure with both sides independently. Maybe you can bring the mic right next to the driver side speaker to measure with balance to right only. This might help identify if it is due to sound dampening issue or installation issue as some of the forumers pointed out. Do remember to reduce your volume when you measure right next to the speaker. I think the recommended SPL is at 75db.

yes using UMIK-1, only measure in 0 deg. point to the speaker, think 90 deg point to ceiling is good for surround or room environment, i tried this at home speaker only, good advice and will try, yes different calibration file for 0 & 90 deg.

 

Will try to measure just next to the speaker to see the result, normally measurement take at SPL 75db.

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slightly better with EQ around 125 &160 (100-125-160-200), still not flat and never know if it will sound better by solving this issue, i can lower left midbass and boost right midbass to lower the dip but prefer a better solution if possible.

 

3 ways

TA - measure the distance of each driver to headrest and divide by a formula to get the basic then fine tune until my liking, vocal from centre and focus.

Left / Right same cross over, do play around but not solving the issue.

 

 

yes using UMIK-1, only measure in 0 deg. point to the speaker, think 90 deg point to ceiling is good for surround or room environment, i tried this at home speaker only, good advice and will try, yes different calibration file for 0 & 90 deg.

 

Will try to measure just next to the speaker to see the result, normally measurement take at SPL 75db.

Sorry man, ur reply sounds abit like trolling.. anyway good luck and hope u solve ur issue
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Will it void engine or brakes ?

You changing rims ?

Pocket not deep enough to change rims leh.  [bigcry]  Telling myself I don't need a nice looking car but need good interiors to enjoy while driving. 

 

My car is from AD so I called up the AD spare parts dept and asked about the sound system upgrade. I was told that they will need to get authorisation from the manufacturer even if they have the parts. I have also gone to an external workshop to diagnose my car but the external workshop cannot do further checks on the error codes as they are worried about voiding warranty by opening up things to check on electronics.

 

Anyway, my car siao siao one, this morning sounded ok. Not sure if it is just me.  [:/]  

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Neutral Newbie

yes using UMIK-1, only measure in 0 deg. point to the speaker, think 90 deg point to ceiling is good for surround or room environment, i tried this at home speaker only, good advice and will try, yes different calibration file for 0 & 90 deg.

 

Will try to measure just next to the speaker to see the result, normally measurement take at SPL 75db.

 

On 2nd thoughts, I don't think the orientation of the mic makes a difference. Because you have already measured left and right independently and left is alright, this means it has nothing to do with the mic orientation. Pardon me for that.

 

And since you mentioned left and right xover are the same, means it rules out xover setting also. And TA can be ruled out also since you measure left and right independently.

 

It really sounds like "environmental" issue. Your left and right doors are sound dampened exactly the same? Is it possible that your right door has a leak around the 150hz freq such that the out of phase wave from behind the speaker is cancelling out that in phase waves produced in the front of the speakers? Or worse case *touchwood* faulty driver?

 

BTW, there is a very old series of youtube videos of a guy tuning his car audio using REW also. I think he has a dip somewhere but it's at a higher range. You can go check out those video. Tonnes of valuable information.

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On 2nd thoughts, I don't think the orientation of the mic makes a difference. Because you have already measured left and right independently and left is alright, this means it has nothing to do with the mic orientation. Pardon me for that.

 

And since you mentioned left and right xover are the same, means it rules out xover setting also. And TA can be ruled out also since you measure left and right independently.

 

It really sounds like "environmental" issue. Your left and right doors are sound dampened exactly the same? Is it possible that your right door has a leak around the 150hz freq such that the out of phase wave from behind the speaker is cancelling out that in phase waves produced in the front of the speakers? Or worse case *touchwood* faulty driver?

 

BTW, there is a very old series of youtube videos of a guy tuning his car audio using REW also. I think he has a dip somewhere but it's at a higher range. You can go check out those video. Tonnes of valuable information.

 

Hi Hanz, you have good knowledge on these, too trouble to check the sound dampened and yes i know it is the most important part, so just assume it is ok, hopefully is not faulty driver, i think most likely due to cancellation but not much knowledge on these, i also suspend because of i sit on the driver side and my leg block the wave but end up not the case, will google and find more information, do pm me if you would like to share more information, thanks again.

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Pocket not deep enough to change rims leh. [bigcry] Telling myself I don't need a nice looking car but need good interiors to enjoy while driving.

 

My car is from AD so I called up the AD spare parts dept and asked about the sound system upgrade. I was told that they will need to get authorisation from the manufacturer even if they have the parts. I have also gone to an external workshop to diagnose my car but the external workshop cannot do further checks on the error codes as they are worried about voiding warranty by opening up things to check on electronics.

 

Anyway, my car siao siao one, this morning sounded ok. Not sure if it is just me. [:/]

Bs lar....

I order my spare set of pillar from AD

 

:)

AND my sales can't wait to check out mine once i done up

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slightly better with EQ around 125 &160 (100-125-160-200), still not flat and never know if it will sound better by solving this issue, i can lower left midbass and boost right midbass to lower the dip but prefer a better solution if possible.

 

3 ways

TA - measure the distance of each driver to headrest and divide by a formula to get the basic then fine tune until my liking, vocal from centre and focus.

Left / Right same cross over, do play around but not solving the issue.

 

 

yes using UMIK-1, only measure in 0 deg. point to the speaker, think 90 deg point to ceiling is good for surround or room environment, i tried this at home speaker only, good advice and will try, yes different calibration file for 0 & 90 deg.

 

Will try to measure just next to the speaker to see the result, normally measurement take at SPL 75db.

Do u suspect phase issue? Hv u tried to flip the phase of 1 of the mid? Sounds like cancellation.
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Do u suspect phase issue? Hv u tried to flip the phase of 1 of the mid? Sounds like cancellation.

 

thanks for suggestion, i tried just now, reverse the phase for right midbass, not phase issue.

 

 

Also, since you mention this is only for driver side, I presume you tried to measure with both sides independently. Maybe you can bring the mic right next to the driver side speaker to measure with balance to right only. This might help identify if it is due to sound dampening issue or installation issue as some of the forumers pointed out. Do remember to reduce your volume when you measure right next to the speaker. I think the recommended SPL is at 75db.

Hi Hanz, i measure few inches from both midbass as you suggest, look ok and both look quite similar.

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thanks for suggestion, i tried just now, reverse the phase for right midbass, not phase issue.

 

Hi Hanz, i measure few inches from both midbass as you suggest, look ok and both look quite similar.

Yes .. could be phasing as well
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I do believe this discussion of solving audio issues warrant a separate track as it is something more to do with tuning. I believe not all is able to appreciate the technicality involved when they come looking for audio shop recommendation.

 

 

Tuning itself is an art and there are quite a few items to take note of. Even the structure of individual ears are different and from the same setup, could hear things differently. That is what creative tries to sell in their recent super x-fi that maps the ear structure to offer the best sound.

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