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Honda Vezel


Hsiao
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I have the same experience as what you had described. Another thing which I like to highlight is that the sensors is field of view is a little wider than the car body. As such, it could activate when you try to filter into the next lane because you are stuck in the current which is not moving. The trick is not to stop too close the the car in front of you. Even if you could manoeuvre out, the CTBA sensor may still detect a "close" obstacle.

Good pointer..

So for those who likes to race & "car-chase" or tailgate one, do switch OFF CTBA..

[laugh][laugh][laugh]

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Good pointer..

So for those who likes to race & "car-chase" or tailgate one, do switch OFF CTBA..

[laugh][laugh][laugh]

http://www.honda.co.nz/technology/safety/cbta/

 

 

City Brake Assist (CTBA)

City Brake Assist (City-Brake Active System or CTBA) is specifically designed to help avoid or mitigate low speed accidents. It is standard on the Jazz RS range, and is part of Honda’s international effort to reduce collisions.

While driving at speeds of between 5km/h and 30km/h, the CTBA gives audio and visual warnings to the driver when the system recognises a high risk of collision. The system uses a laser radar unit fitted to the windscreen behind the rear mirror to detect potential collisions and to mitigate the level of damage in an unavoidable crash. If the driver does not take action to slow down, the system will apply the brakes automatically. Note: CTBA is not intended as a replacement for driver braking.

False starts are reduced with City Brake Assist. When the car is stationary or travelling slowly (less than 10km/h) and CBTA senses that the driver has stepped on the accelerator pedal too hard with an obsticle approximately four metres of the front of the car, it will provide an audio and visual warning. The system will then assist the driver by applying the brakes. This helps reduce accidents in situations where the driver accidentally steps on the accelerator instead of the brake.

 

Edited by trajet2b
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bro, can pm me your registration number?

 

did Prime on pass you some rebate?

 

did you check your PARF value?

 

Thanks

How come your CEVS rebate is 14.7k? Btw ur min parf is 5k??

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my enquiry and their response from them left me with a decision to stay far away from them...... personal conclusion - value your $$ :)

 

Bro, what do u mean about this? They serve u with bad response? What makes u wanna stay far from them?

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Hi bros, whats the different btween the 3 model X,S AND G? Planning to go view the car this coming friday... Haha

 

As far as I know,G has halogen headlights, 2 airbags, no steering control, local fitted rims (for dealers I spoke to at least). X has 6/8 air bags, LED lights, factory fitted 16 inch rims. S has peddle shifter, roof rails and 17 inch factory fitted rims.

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Since omv is $19.7k.. And min parf is $5k. What is left is $14.7k for CEVS.

CEV is ARF less actual ARF paid, which is either $10k or $15k. Btw, mine is $10k... Edited by saysay
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Huskyboy, on 11 Feb 2015 - 9:00 PM, said:

Since omv is $19.7k.. And min parf is $5k. What is left is $14.7k for CEVS.

can you tell us what is your PARF value? $3K?

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Any bro or sis have done paint protection other than ceramic pro? Thinking of getting it done but price is quite ex; wondering if there are good alternatives ?thanks a bunch

 

Bro, I am holding back my plan for paint protection waiting for your 5 layers 9H ceramic @$500 kangtao. Can pm contact...

 

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Just pumped shell 98 as an experiment and am enjoying best FC to date. 17.3 kml after about 250 km.

 

Usually pump SPC 95 with FC of about 15 to 15.5 kml (rarely 16). Tyre pressure is 220 back 230 front. Any bros can advise if there is a diff between Shell 95 and Shell 98?

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Just pumped shell 98 as an experiment and am enjoying best FC to date. 17.3 kml after about 250 km.

 

Usually pump SPC 95 with FC of about 15 to 15.5 kml (rarely 16). Tyre pressure is 220 back 230 front. Any bros can advise if there is a diff between Shell 95 and Shell 98?

 

am a staunch believer of using RON98 versus RON95, brand aside.

 

the drive is so much more responsive and ignition timing does not need to be retarded to account for the lower octane. this helps explains why you experience a better drive with RON98.

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Just pumped shell 98 as an experiment and am enjoying best FC to date. 17.3 kml after about 250 km.

 

Usually pump SPC 95 with FC of about 15 to 15.5 kml (rarely 16). Tyre pressure is 220 back 230 front. Any bros can advise if there is a diff between Shell 95 and Shell 98?

I always admire fellow Bro/Sis who can achieve so high FC..

Unfortunately, I only achieve 12-km/L.. 😧

Pls let me know I m not alone.. 😢

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am a staunch believer of using RON98 versus RON95, brand aside.

 

the drive is so much more responsive and ignition timing does not need to be retarded to account for the lower octane. this helps explains why you experience a better drive with RON98.

Yes I agree. Forgot to mention the drive does indeed feel more responsive

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Since omv is $19.7k.. And min parf is $5k. What is left is $14.7k for CEVS.

 

OMV is $19.7K.

Minimum ARF, do note it's ARF (Additional Registration Fees) has a minimum sum at $5K so you have $2.5K Parf rebate (Preferential Additional Registration Fees rebate) at the end of the COE lifespan of 10 years when you scrap your car.

 

So if CEVS is $15K for rebate off the ARF payable, $19.7K - $15K = $4.7K (This falls below the minimum sum of $5K for ARF payable), so you'll have to top up another $0.3K back from the rebates to make sure you have the minimum sum of $5K payable for ARF, thus your effective CEVS rebate is $14.7K.

 

It's like the CPF minimum sum kind of thing, lol. Sad to say.

you should check out mister cars also.

 

dont rush.

 

Thanks bro for the heads up. :wub:

Edited by mistercars
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