What coolant did you use

[Shibadog]

Interesting topic..let me bring it up again and share with everyone the coolant that I swear by.

 

Evans Waterless coolant! I use it in my off road motorbikes and family car.

 

Like Jamesc mentioned, water boils at 100 degrees and no matter what, evaporation and boiling pressure will cause coolant lost. So take away the water, boiling point is raised and the boiling temperature becomes 180degrees (of course when we see that our car overheat we should always stop as it might be a mechanical problem) But the most obvious advantage of using this coolant is that it has very low or no pressure. It is not cheap about $300 total for my car but it last a lifetime. quite worth it as its my insurance from breakdowns, towing, waterpump, gaskets, radiator and hose bursting. Plus I never have to top up or check my coolant EVER!

 

pure water boils at 100deg C at normal atmospheric pressure. With added coolant and higher pressure of the cooling sys, our radiator fluid does not boil at 100deg C, but at a higher temp.

 

this coolant u r selling - u say "it has low or no pressure". then how does it circulate in the cooling system? The water pump will introduce pressure into the system. What do u mean that this liquid "has low or no pressure". If r u trying to sell something using technicalities, pls try to be correct. I'm no hydraulic engineer but that statement still sounds wrong to my non-expert ears. I would want pressure in my water cooling system to ensure circulation, just as we need oil pressure in the engine oil loop. If oil pressure is too low, then something is wrong.

 

lifetime coolant makes no sense, as we occasionally need to drain/spill some coolant n refill (for reasons other than changing coolant).

 

if u are plugging a product that u/your company is selling, it is better to declare upfront.

[Dinkydong]

Wear and tear happens. Radiator hoses can rupture or puncture with age. Hoses can come loose. Corroded radiators can result in a loss of coolant. When any of the above happens, wouldnt the life-time coolant be drained away and requires replacement/topping up? Wouldnt it end up being a whole lot more costly to do so than conventional coolants? Cant see much point in using such a 'life-time' coolant.

Edited March 27, 2015 by Dinkydong

[Kangadrool]

life time could mean life time of the coolant, not your car, not the radiator....

 

Which means anytime from 01 day to ...... days.

 

[Forte3737]

you no sponsor here and you advertise... good luck to you!!

Wonder who will buy?

[Suhaimiebrahim]

I used Toyota Longlife coolant which is pink in color.No need any mixing,just direct pour from the bottle.

 

It is also reasonably price.

[TL173]

Me too, also using Toyota Long Life Coolant since day 1 at 9 years ago. So far so good, no issue on radiator, water pump or water boiling issue. No changing of any part where coolant passing through.

 

Last purchase was on July 2014 bought at the price of $22 from Stockist - Ric Tat at Owen Road.

[KinaNg]

 

pure water boils at 100deg C at normal atmospheric pressure. With added coolant and higher pressure of the cooling sys, our radiator fluid does not boil at 100deg C, but at a higher temp.

 

this coolant u r selling - u say "it has low or no pressure". then how does it circulate in the cooling system? The water pump will introduce pressure into the system. What do u mean that this liquid "has low or no pressure". If r u trying to sell something using technicalities, pls try to be correct. I'm no hydraulic engineer but that statement still sounds wrong to my non-expert ears. I would want pressure in my water cooling system to ensure circulation, just as we need oil pressure in the engine oil loop. If oil pressure is too low, then something is wrong.

 

lifetime coolant makes no sense, as we occasionally need to drain/spill some coolant n refill (for reasons other than changing coolant).

 

if u are plugging a product that u/your company is selling, it is better to declare upfront.

 

Lets visualize it this way:

The home aquarium filter system.. the water pump sucks in water from the fish tank (that's negative pressure) and spits it out into the filter (positive pressure) this action causes the liquid to flow which is similar to our engine's cooling system. But this pressure is harmless and facilitates flow.

Now, we introduce a heater into our fish tank plus seal it up air thigh (because our vehicles are closed system) when heater reaches boiling temperature it will cause boiling, when boiling occurs air bubbles are formed. look into a boiling kettle and it will be similar to what is happening in our coolant jackets near the piston area or combustion chamber.

Boiling pushes cooler liquids away from the hot surfaces, it forms an insulating layer and reduces heat transfer. It is also the source of our "bad pressure" which "inflates" our coolant hoses and radiators and working its way out gaskets and hose clamps. This bad pressure does not help with circulation, in a closed looped system it actually retards the flow.

 

A Lifetime coolant IMO makes perfect sense because there is no need for refill as it don't evaporate, wont spill as it is not pressurized, will not split like premixed coolants.

Dont we all find schedule service maintenance a pain? and we wonder when car makers make models that run on "lifetime engine oil"? someday technology might take us there but for now only waterless coolant can solve one part of the problem.

 

My apologies if my snooping around made you guys uncomfortable as it is difficult sometimes to split myself between my job and a mechanical enthusiast. I might get my sales manager to formally start a new thread to here for discussions on cooling systems and waterless coolants. will see how it pans out.

[Forte3737]

 

Lets visualize it this way:

The home aquarium filter system.. the water pump sucks in water from the fish tank (that's negative pressure) and spits it out into the filter (positive pressure) this action causes the liquid to flow which is similar to our engine's cooling system. But this pressure is harmless and facilitates flow.

Now, we introduce a heater into our fish tank plus seal it up air thigh (because our vehicles are closed system) when heater reaches boiling temperature it will cause boiling, when boiling occurs air bubbles are formed. look into a boiling kettle and it will be similar to what is happening in our coolant jackets near the piston area or combustion chamber.

Boiling pushes cooler liquids away from the hot surfaces, it forms an insulating layer and reduces heat transfer. It is also the source of our "bad pressure" which "inflates" our coolant hoses and radiators and working its way out gaskets and hose clamps. This bad pressure does not help with circulation, in a closed looped system it actually retards the flow.

 

A Lifetime coolant IMO makes perfect sense because there is no need for refill as it don't evaporate, wont spill as it is not pressurized, will not split like premixed coolants.

Dont we all find schedule service maintenance a pain? and we wonder when car makers make models that run on "lifetime engine oil"? someday technology might take us there but for now only waterless coolant can solve one part of the problem.

 

My apologies if my snooping around made you guys uncomfortable as it is difficult sometimes to split myself between my job and a mechanical enthusiast. I might get my sales manager to formally start a new thread to here for discussions on cooling systems and waterless coolants. will see how it pans out.

How much is the coolant?

[Enye]

 

Lets visualize it this way:

The home aquarium filter system.. the water pump sucks in water from the fish tank (that's negative pressure) and spits it out into the filter (positive pressure) this action causes the liquid to flow which is similar to our engine's cooling system. But this pressure is harmless and facilitates flow.

Now, we introduce a heater into our fish tank plus seal it up air thigh (because our vehicles are closed system) when heater reaches boiling temperature it will cause boiling, when boiling occurs air bubbles are formed. look into a boiling kettle and it will be similar to what is happening in our coolant jackets near the piston area or combustion chamber.

Boiling pushes cooler liquids away from the hot surfaces, it forms an insulating layer and reduces heat transfer. It is also the source of our "bad pressure" which "inflates" our coolant hoses and radiators and working its way out gaskets and hose clamps. This bad pressure does not help with circulation, in a closed looped system it actually retards the flow.

 

A Lifetime coolant IMO makes perfect sense because there is no need for refill as it don't evaporate, wont spill as it is not pressurized, will not split like premixed coolants.

Dont we all find schedule service maintenance a pain? and we wonder when car makers make models that run on "lifetime engine oil"? someday technology might take us there but for now only waterless coolant can solve one part of the problem.

 

My apologies if my snooping around made you guys uncomfortable as it is difficult sometimes to split myself between my job and a mechanical enthusiast. I might get my sales manager to formally start a new thread to here for discussions on cooling systems and waterless coolants. will see how it pans out.

 

under normal operating conditions, why would the water based coolant boil?

 

[Forte3737]

Most probably too anxious to promote the product, and got the facts wrong

 

under normal operating conditions, why would the water based coolant boil?

 

 

[MelsonChua]

Is there any difference in conti and asian cars for coolant suitability?

[Furrynadz]

stock is best

[Kippei]

Is there any difference in conti and asian cars for coolant suitability?

 

The amount of additives dependant on the type of coolant will affect your gasket and hoses.

[KinaNg]

 

under normal operating conditions, why would the water based coolant boil?

 

Not to be confused.. it is the same reason why we do not open the radiator cap when the engine is hot. boiling occurs only at hot spots. usually near the combustion chamber and spark plug where ignition of fuel air mixture takes place. Pressure is build up this way, very similar to a pressure cooker over a small fire used for boiling soup. Eventually the release valve will have whistle to let out pressure thats where steam/water is lost. On an engine this valve is the radiator cap or a overflow tube. thats why radiator caps are pressure rated depending on how much heat the engine put out... more HP...higher heat output...higher the cap rating.

 

To check for this pressure, give the longest coolant hose a squeeze after your journey, it will be evident being inflated and very hard. (but pls do not attempt to open the radiator cap for your own safety!) A hose clip tighten improper will cause coolant lost due to seepage. Expansion and contraction of hoses and radiator causes stress fracture over time. in short, pressure is not a friend in the radiator system. Therefore, it is really a form of preventive maintenance and increased reliability choosing to use a waterless coolant.

[flashbang]

Not to be confused.. it is the same reason why we do not open the radiator cap when the engine is hot. boiling occurs only at hot spots. usually near the combustion chamber and spark plug where ignition of fuel air mixture takes place. Pressure is build up this way, very similar to a pressure cooker over a small fire used for boiling soup. Eventually the release valve will have whistle to let out pressure thats where steam/water is lost. On an engine this valve is the radiator cap or a overflow tube. thats why radiator caps are pressure rated depending on how much heat the engine put out... more HP...higher heat output...higher the cap rating.

 

To check for this pressure, give the longest coolant hose a squeeze after your journey, it will be evident being inflated and very hard. (but pls do not attempt to open the radiator cap for your own safety!) A hose clip tighten improper will cause coolant lost due to seepage. Expansion and contraction of hoses and radiator causes stress fracture over time. in short, pressure is not a friend in the radiator system. Therefore, it is really a form of preventive maintenance and increased reliability choosing to use a waterless coolant.

 

This is starting to sound like that sort of salesman talk that I always hear: full of self confidence and complicated things to fool the average customer, but once you look closely and do some own research you realise it's mostly hot air.

 

The cooling system is designed to work under pressure, which helps to increase the boiling point of the coolant. That's why there's always the warning not to open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, as the system is under pressure and the hot coolant is going to shoot out if you open the cap, much like opening a coke bottle after you have accidentally dropped it.

 

Anyway, AFAIK there is only one brand of waterless coolant which is Evans.

[Newcar]

Me too, also using Toyota Long Life Coolant since day 1 at 9 years ago. So far so good, no issue on radiator, water pump or water boiling issue. No changing of any part where coolant passing through.

 

Last purchase was on July 2014 bought at the price of $22 from Stockist - Ric Tat at Owen Road.

 

Just a hint,

Ask friends around,combined to get a carton (6 Bottles) purchase.

Me paid S$3/ bottle lesser when buy a carton. (Super Long Life/ Pink color)

Just from a neighboring shop you named.