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Honda Civic 2007 Repair/Maintenance

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5th Gear

I learned over the last 6 yrs on maintenance of my car. I talked and checked details with car mechanics and witnessed the services and repaired. It is not rocket science to learn basic maintenance. Unfortunately, not many has the passion to know about car maintenance since we live in high rise with no proper area to dismantle and look see. We leave it to workshop to do every servicing and pay. Of course, doing engine overhaul, and changing absorbers will require extensive of tools and lifting. A normal jack won't allow such job. However, oil change, spark plug change, battery change has been my own maintenance. You need to know where to dispose the dirty oil

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5th Gear

am also considering to get a FD after my EK expired in 2016.

very reluctant to change becos my EK is also a very reliable chap.

beside those ah beng mod i did to her, i only changed the rear wheel bearing twice in 5 years. [drivingcar]

 

IMG_0013c_zps7662a7c7.jpg

You EK is one of the last true ah beng Civics. Light and powerful, total disregard for the env... 1.6L NA making 170hp, rev till 7000rpm without care,

 

The FD is the heaviest Civic ever, but with big power from R18A and K20Z, its can still go pretty fast.

 

Good cars needs to be kept yo. Seriously would u dump your EK or my FD for the current FB Civic? Just becos the current Civic is a brand new car? No right?

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Neutral Newbie

Sorry brothers, just to hijack this thread for awhile. My front lower arms are making a big thump when going thru humps. I'm left with a 360 days to scrap.

 

Just wondering should I replaced or just endure until scrap?

How much to change since it's a integrated lower arm for Civic FD.

Am wondering to renew COE since can't find anymore 1.8 with power and good FC.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

For the thread starter, (Never regret until today :)

FD is a good car to drive for this price since I bought 9 years ago.

 

Good acceleration until u are going again those TSI or turbo engine.

Corner acceleration is wonderful.

Spacious interior with futuristic speedometer. (Until today I still love it, no ones make nice digital speedo. Even those reflect on windscreen also lose.)

Easy maintenance as it's a N.A. car, no turbo, no leaking pipe, unstable ECU to fiddle with. Especially those VW Golf n Jetta gearbox.

 

 

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5th Gear

Sorry brothers, just to hijack this thread for awhile. My front lower arms are making a big thump when going thru humps. I'm left with a 360 days to scrap.

 

Just wondering should I replaced or just endure until scrap?

How much to change since it's a integrated lower arm for Civic FD.

Am wondering to renew COE since can't find anymore 1.8 with power and good FC.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

For the thread starter, (Never regret until today :)

FD is a good car to drive for this price since I bought 9 years ago.

 

Good acceleration until u are going again those TSI or turbo engine.

Corner acceleration is wonderful.

Spacious interior with futuristic speedometer. (Until today I still love it, no ones make nice digital speedo. Even those reflect on windscreen also lose.)

Easy maintenance as it's a N.A. car, no turbo, no leaking pipe, unstable ECU to fiddle with. Especially those VW Golf n Jetta gearbox.

 

 

Thien Sing stockist is selling the lower A arm at $130 ea... so that's $260. Actually this $$ is not justified. Its the rubber ball joints that are worn out. Why are we made to replace the whole damn metal A arm? FYI, Honda DO sell the rubber ball joints separately... and Thien Sing do sell them as well.

 

The ball joint cost just $25 /ea... and I have got 2... But to my disgust, no workshop in SG have the skills nor means to just replace the joints... [smash][thumbsdown][furious] Yet when I search youtube, people in North America were DIY-ing to replace the rubber joint in their home garage...... Some kind of nonsense we have in SG...

 

 

Ermm... actually bro, the FD1 and FD2 fuel economy is modest at best. Many newer, and bigger, more powerful engine cars can offer better fuel economy. I could bearly pull 10km/L in SG with 95 octane gas even with mostly highway driving. using 98 can get me ard 11km/L. Mind you I'm using thinnest top quality 0W-20 engine oil from Pennzoil already.

 

But acceleration and handling are wonderful indeed. You can't enjoy these in a new Altis nor Bluebird Sylphy. If you want a serene quiet interior and plush ride, the FD1 is not for you liao. You will be better off in the current Altis.

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Turbocharged

Ermm... actually bro, the FD1 and FD2 fuel economy is modest at best. Many newer, and bigger, more powerful engine cars can offer better fuel economy. I could bearly pull 10km/L in SG with 95 octane gas even with mostly highway driving. using 98 can get me ard 11km/L. Mind you I'm using thinnest top quality 0W-20 engine oil from Pennzoil already.

 

But acceleration and handling are wonderful indeed. You can't enjoy these in a new Altis nor Bluebird Sylphy. If you want a serene quiet interior and plush ride, the FD1 is not for you liao. You will be better off in the current Altis.

quite surprised your bad FC,

my 08 Civic 1.8MT, easily clock 13+km/L on SG congestion traffic condition, NS-way 16+km/L

5W-40 EO.

acceleration and handling wise, in this class non other Jap/Kor models can compare,

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5th Gear

quite surprised your bad FC,

my 08 Civic 1.8MT, easily clock 13+km/L on SG congestion traffic condition, NS-way 16+km/L

5W-40 EO.

acceleration and handling wise, in this class non other Jap/Kor models can compare,

I can pull 16+km/L on the NS highway as well... one thing I learnt about Honda engines as their claimed fuel economy figs..... you can't stop the car if you want to enjoy great fuel economy... [drivingcar][smash]

 

Well yours a MT Civic... its a known fact that MT cars offers the best power delivery and fuel economy as compared to AT models of the same car.

 

Well what to do... just a small price to pay (well not that small considering how expensive fuel is today) in rewards of owning the last of the great Civics... for now... [thumbsup]

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Neutral Newbie

hi how to verify that my 07 civic engine mounting had been change?

 

thanks

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Neutral Newbie

hi peeps, anyone have try over inflat the tyre recommendation by another 30 to 40 psi? [:)]

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6th Gear

hi peeps, anyone have try over inflat the tyre recommendation by another 30 to 40 psi? [:)]

 

think you probably meant kpa because 30 psi is about 206.8 kpa.

 

all my four tyres are on 250 kpa.

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Neutral Newbie

 

think you probably meant kpa because 30 psi is about 206.8 kpa.

 

all my four tyres are on 250 kpa.

 

hi spinelli, thanks for the info, would try that.:)

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6th Gear

 

hi spinelli, thanks for the info, would try that.:)

you are welcome. if it is too bumpy for you, you could reduce the air pressure to 240 kpa. for accurate reading, only pump the tyres when they are still relatively cold.

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Neutral Newbie

you are welcome. if it is too bumpy for you, you could reduce the air pressure to 240 kpa. for accurate reading, only pump the tyres when they are still relatively cold.

 

ohhh...thats something new to me. thanks:)

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5th Gear

hi how to verify that my 07 civic engine mounting had been change?

 

thanks

Your mechanic will be able to tell. Your whole engine will sinker deeper into the engine bay if the mounts are worn.

 

Also with worn mounts, you will never be able to achieve any smooth as silk idling. And you car tends to be super bouncy and trashy and feeling nose heavy as well. The whole engine weight in pressing directly onto the chassis without any cushion liao

 

You may sometimes hear metallic grinding sounds from the engine bay too. Since without the shocks and rubber support, metal are grinding against each other when the engine is running

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6th Gear

I am driving a 2008 FL FD1. 1st owner since day one, full TLC with full svc at stimulated intervals. Been using Mobil 1 and now Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20.

 

Yes Honda parts tends to wear out fairly quickly and they are not cheap even if u buy outside and replace outside

 

This is what I've replaced so far, mileage at 80000+km

 

- Rear wheel bearings. Bought factory originals from stockiest at $110 each (they are actually made by NTN bearings), so its $220. Labor cost $200... Total: no eyes see...

 

- Engine mounts. 4 units. Bought from outside. In retrospect, I seriously do think that we only need to replace 3 only. the upper left mount is just a simple rotary joint with no rubber nor shocks inside. It's very unlikely it will wear off. Anyway its $100x2 and $70x2. Labor charge: $120. Total: No eye see...

 

- Front AND rear disc rotors. Honda front disc rotors tends to warp very easily. Replaced the 1st set under warranty during the 2nd year. The 2nd set warped again at the 4th year. TMD, totally give up on originals and self imported a full front/rear, cross drilled and slotted set from Canada. item itself costs no more than USD$150 with ceramic pads, but the air fright adds another 100% to the cost. Total cost: No eyes see.

 

- New Toyo C1S Tires... $500...

 

Upcoming replacement projects.

 

- Shocks. Shocks are almost dead. Car quite bouncy and floaty esp if u drive fast over bumpy road. KYB Excel G seems to be the only choice. Unless u strike TOTO and upgrade all the way to adj coil over suspensions. Costs: !@#$%^&

 

- Front lower control arm bushings. TMD I was told we need to replace the whole control arm although it is just the front pillow bushings that has cracked. Workshops claimed they don't have proper press tools to remove the worn bushings and reinstall. It will be $130 per control arm. So it will be $260. Labor... I don't want to know la!... Total cost: [shakehead][bigcry]

 

- Blown hazard light switch backlight. WTF, of all things? I think I will ignore this.

 

Well so much for Made in Japan quality huh...

 

The FD Civic is the last of the great Civics. It has to be treasured of cos, but as you can see, the longer u keep the car, the maint costs keep going up, and it goes up quite exponentially sigh...

 

For a purchase price of a Cat B COE today back in 2008, you really cant find a brand new sharp handling B&B car that can do a century sprint in 10 secs and redline at 7000rpm these days

 

 

Yes some may argue with a brand new car, you will get 5 to 10 yrs factory warranty plus, depending on which brand/model you buy, you will get 10 yrs free services too. I like the Kia Forte, but the weak 1.6L is just no match to FD1 R18A in terms of pure power. Only the Forte Koup Turbo is worth the trouble, but the $$ from C&C is not. And I understand C&C no longer import the Koup anymore. Prices too high and no sales at all.

 

And then the financial burden of buying a new car....

 

 

bro, have you replaced the shock absorbers? Honda OEM shocks are from Showa. I have been trying to source for Showa-branded shocks, but to no avail. once there is a printed Honda logo, the price of the replacement part shoots up exponentially. :wacko: and customers will kena [knife].

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5th Gear

 

bro, have you replaced the shock absorbers? Honda OEM shocks are from Showa. I have been trying to source for Showa-branded shocks, but to no avail. once there is a printed Honda logo, the price of the replacement part shoots up exponentially. :wacko: and customers will kena [knife].

KYB Excel G would be the more common options. But they are not that cheap either.

 

With labor it can cost almost $800 even if I replace the shocks outside.

 

I'm still considering if I shd go all the way and upgrade to coilovers for a few $100s more.

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Neutral Newbie

Your mechanic will be able to tell. Your whole engine will sinker deeper into the engine bay if the mounts are worn.

 

Also with worn mounts, you will never be able to achieve any smooth as silk idling. And you car tends to be super bouncy and trashy and feeling nose heavy as well. The whole engine weight in pressing directly onto the chassis without any cushion liao

 

You may sometimes hear metallic grinding sounds from the engine bay too. Since without the shocks and rubber support, metal are grinding against each other when the engine is running

 

hi cheefarn, very informative.so far have not had any issue yet but becos brought 2nd hand from the dealer and he mention the engine mount is new.so would like to check it myself just to be sure...:)

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anyone knows the weight of the stock rims for civic FD4 (1.6) and FD1 (2.0)?

 

5 x 114.3 pcd, first time using such rims.

 

goin to downgrade my 17" rims to 16" rims

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I don't know if this is relevant anymore, but I know of this Thailand guy that buys Honda parts over to Singapore. and brings them here to install for youi for simple ones. I once bought engine mounts from him. and some FD accessories as well.

 

PM me if you want his thai number

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