COE expiry soon.. Buy used or new Car?

[Edalfa]

Best is don't renew the 5yrs COE which is 30k plus based on half the current COE price, scrap your car and buy a car that is left with 2 or 3yrs and drive on, at least you can use your parf value to offset the price of the 2nd hand car that is left with 2 to 3yrs of usage with it's own OMV and parf value.

[Char]

Best is don't renew the 5yrs COE which is 30k plus based on half the current COE price, scrap your car and buy a car that is left with 2 or 3yrs and drive on, at least you can use your parf value to offset the price of the 2nd hand car that is left with 2 to 3yrs of usage with it's own OMV and parf value.

But the depreciation for those left 2-3 years car are higher than new car !! Never make sense at all !! Pay higher price get older car and lower coe value ?

[Strat]

But the depreciation for those left 2-3 years car are higher than new car !! Never make sense at all !! Pay higher price get older car and lower coe value ?

COE all the while never make sense.... it only make money for our government.

[5115jay]

Hi all.
I am looking for a low maintenance car (eg. sunny) with at least 6 months left and with depreciation at around 4k/yr
Serious sellers pls pm me.. thx much

[Edalfa]

But the depreciation for those left 2-3 years car are higher than new car !! Never make sense at all !! Pay higher price get older car and lower coe value ?

Not true, the main idea is driving it till the end, regardless of the COE of the old car, you just need to calculate what is the amount you get back after the 2 to 3 yrs period after you scrap.

[Aros_Mechanic]

If you can afford the 40% or 50% downpayment, just go for a new car. It is the most worthwhile and you get to drive a brand new car. You just got to accept that this is the market rate for owning a car for this period of time (until the next big recession).

 

If you can't afford the downpayment and must have a car as your transport, then consider second hand car which surprisingly have a higher depreciation than new cars. I guess there are a lot of people in this category that are driving the second hand car market up.

 

If you are still unwilling to pay, the most cost saving option is to take public transport. Depending on your lifestyle and distances, calling cab everytime you travel might even be cheaper than owning a car (don't forget that petrol price is climbing up. Esso 95 is at $2.17 already!).

 

If you are still unhappy about the public transport, sell your house and move next to your office.

 

And if all the above fails, migrate is your final option. Sell your HDB flat, move to USA or Australia and you can buy a landed property and your dream car!

[Andyngps]

Hi all.

I am looking for a low maintenance car (eg. sunny) with at least 6 months left and with depreciation at around 4k/yr

Serious sellers pls pm me.. thx much

 

Sunny is not really low maintenance. The fc sucks. Abeit it may be reliable. Edited May 10, 2015 by Andyngps

[Cheefarn]

Sunny is not really low maintenance. The fc sucks. Abeit it may be reliable.

In my experience, even if you are the 1st owner of your car and you give it TLC since day one and you have full control over its maint. schedule, an old car of say 5 yrs and above tends to give you a lot more problems than it was when it was newer.

 

A lot of wear and tear items started to show up and you need quite a lot of money to replace/fix them The chassis and drivetrain are the most trouble prone.

 

For my 2008 FD1, me the original owner and I've replaced the following for the 6-7 months.

 

- All 4 engine mountings

- Rear wheel bearings.

- Went through 2 sets of factory original front disc rotors until I give up on factory original parts and upgrade to full cross drilled/slotted rotors for front and rear discs (rear discs cross drilled only)

- Front and rear brake pads

 

Upcoming wallet deflating projects

 

- replace shocks

- replace front lower A arms (bushing torn and local workshops actually don't have the skills to replace the bushings alone and they force me to replace the whole metal A arms)

- Front wheel bearings (parts are not expensive but labor is)

 

Mind you, I used top quality 0W-20 oil and fuel since day one and I didn't delay any regular svcs at all. But all these still happened.

[Andyngps]

In my experience, even if you are the 1st owner of your car and you give it TLC since day one and you have full control over its maint. schedule, an old car of say 5 yrs and above tends to give you a lot more problems than it was when it was newer.

 

A lot of wear and tear items started to show up and you need quite a lot of money to replace/fix them The chassis and drivetrain are the most trouble prone.

 

For my 2008 FD1, me the original owner and I've replaced the following for the 6-7 months.

 

- All 4 engine mountings

- Rear wheel bearings.

- Went through 2 sets of factory original front disc rotors until I give up on factory original parts and upgrade to full cross drilled/slotted rotors for front and rear discs (rear discs cross drilled only)

- Front and rear brake pads

 

Upcoming wallet deflating projects

 

- replace shocks

- replace front lower A arms (bushing torn and local workshops actually don't have the skills to replace the bushings alone and they force me to replace the whole metal A arms)

- Front wheel bearings (parts are not expensive but labor is)

 

Mind you, I used top quality 0W-20 oil and fuel since day one and I didn't delay any regular svcs at all. But all these still happened.

Sigh bro. True and it sure hurts the wallet and time..

[BobbyTan_74287]

In my experience, even if you are the 1st owner of your car and you give it TLC since day one and you have full control over its maint. schedule, an old car of say 5 yrs and above tends to give you a lot more problems than it was when it was newer.

 

A lot of wear and tear items started to show up and you need quite a lot of money to replace/fix them The chassis and drivetrain are the most trouble prone.

 

For my 2008 FD1, me the original owner and I've replaced the following for the 6-7 months.

 

- All 4 engine mountings

- Rear wheel bearings.

- Went through 2 sets of factory original front disc rotors until I give up on factory original parts and upgrade to full cross drilled/slotted rotors for front and rear discs (rear discs cross drilled only)

- Front and rear brake pads

 

Upcoming wallet deflating projects

 

- replace shocks

- replace front lower A arms (bushing torn and local workshops actually don't have the skills to replace the bushings alone and they force me to replace the whole metal A arms)

- Front wheel bearings (parts are not expensive but labor is)

 

Mind you, I used top quality 0W-20 oil and fuel since day one and I didn't delay any regular svcs at all. But all these still happened.

yes, this sounds so familiar. I also did many replacements after my car reached 6 years onwards. Two years ago even replace the auto-gear (around S$4k as is reconditioned). That is why finally I decided not to renew but buy a brand new car.

[Cheefarn]

Sigh bro. True and it sure hurts the wallet and time..

And wifey being a non car person, only know how to KPKB why I'm spending so much $$ on the car...

 

She even thinks I'm spending the $$ on mistress outside for she can't see nor feel the replacement done... !@#$%^

 

 

yes, this sounds so familiar. I also did many replacements after my car reached 6 years onwards. Two years ago even replace the auto-gear (around S$4k as is reconditioned). That is why finally I decided not to renew but buy a brand new car.

My FD1 gearbox still doing fine. But if it starts showing signs of slippage and wear, I will sell the car away liao. I really don't have so much money buying a new GB only to use it for another 3 yrs or so.

[Cheefarn]

So in summary, buying old cars is really a bad deal. You end up spending tons of $$ repairing worn or even damaged parts from the prev owners. And the fact that you may have gotten a hastily repaired car is always there.

 

All these are at odds with your original intention to keep the budget down by buying a used car

[Andyngps]

And wifey being a non car person, only know how to KPKB why I'm spending so much $$ on the car...

 

She even thinks I'm spending the $$ on mistress outside for she can't see nor feel the replacement done... !@#$%^

 

 

 

My FD1 gearbox still doing fine. But if it starts showing signs of slippage and wear, I will sell the car away liao. I really don't have so much money buying a new GB only to use it for another 3 yrs or so.

Mistress may cost more..maybe you dont repair and let the car breakdown one day when you are fetching your wife...who knows she may give you the moola instead.

[Nissan833]

I see a handful of people on my FB feed saying good bye to their cars liao, citing "go green".

[Forte3737]

This is just part of the wear and tear process. No car can escapte it. That's why a lot of dreamers hoping coe to drop. They wanna buy new instead of old. Demand is too strong. Unbelievably strong.

 

 

In my experience, even if you are the 1st owner of your car and you give it TLC since day one and you have full control over its maint. schedule, an old car of say 5 yrs and above tends to give you a lot more problems than it was when it was newer.

 

A lot of wear and tear items started to show up and you need quite a lot of money to replace/fix them The chassis and drivetrain are the most trouble prone.

 

For my 2008 FD1, me the original owner and I've replaced the following for the 6-7 months.

 

- All 4 engine mountings

- Rear wheel bearings.

- Went through 2 sets of factory original front disc rotors until I give up on factory original parts and upgrade to full cross drilled/slotted rotors for front and rear discs (rear discs cross drilled only)

- Front and rear brake pads

 

Upcoming wallet deflating projects

 

- replace shocks

- replace front lower A arms (bushing torn and local workshops actually don't have the skills to replace the bushings alone and they force me to replace the whole metal A arms)

- Front wheel bearings (parts are not expensive but labor is)

 

Mind you, I used top quality 0W-20 oil and fuel since day one and I didn't delay any regular svcs at all. But all these still happened.

 

[Cheefarn]

I see a handful of people on my FB feed saying good bye to their cars liao, citing "go green".

Ermm... go BMW la

[SenOr]

Hello all... on this topic of expiring car, I have a 9yr 2mth old Nissan Latio, mileage is very low, now about 84000 (OPC).

 

Recently got into an accident, my bumper is broken, and bonnet has a dent. Other than these, everything else is alright (no engine or lights damages). Rough quote from a workshop to repair is about under 1K, but now i'm considering to live with it till end of its 10 yrs and scrap it.

 

I asked around and was told my car has no body value, so will expect to get back the entire scrap value as quoted on OneMotoring website. As this is my first time, does anyone know if such unrepaired damages affect my scrap value at the scrap yard? After reading up on MCF, I figured that this is decision should be the best for me (in terms of $$ and convenience).

 

Can anyone share experience on this? Does my calculations make sense? Thanks in advance!

[Angcheek]

 

 

@@Bavarian is that you ?